Day 10 St M d’Orb to St Gerv. s. M, 25k

Saint-Martin d’Orb to Saint-Gervais-sur- Mare.

There was almost 700 metres of elevation today. My phone says I only did 11 floors! So mean.

About 30 metres after leaving the gite, I was already walking on tip toes because the path was so steep. There was about 90 minutes of climbing up a steep rocky path, and then most of the day was spent on forest tracks that went up and down and in every direction. All day had spectacular views. Literally in every direction. Once the path got more or less at the top, the walking was relatively easy. Alternating ups and downs for about 5 hours. Over about 5 or 6 small passes. I felt much better than yesterday. Not quite peppy but not dragging. But the heat at the end of the day was definitely getting beyond my comfort zone. Today I left at 8:15. Tomorrow I will aim for 7:15.

Lots of forests, even at the tops. Sometimes shade. Some of the valleys had no leaves at all yet. Gazillions of trees down. Mostly pines and mostly, but not always, in the plantation forests. There was some scrambling to get around some of them. Tons of birds. Excellent (and only one of two all day) picnic table in the shade for lunch. A cool shelter later on that I forget to take a picture of.

The first water and buildings were 21 km in. This is Gronze’s favourite etape of the whole itinerary. I will reserve judgement but it was really good. The views were the highlight, of course. But maybe the North American is not quite as enamoured of the plantation forests. Though there were fantastic beech forests too.

The usual steep, rocky descent to the village that goes on forever. I am staying with the three other women in a kind of family unit in a lodging place run by the village. One bunk bed, one fold out couch and a separate room with double bed. I was here first and just took the bottom bunk because I did not want to have to be part of the decision of who got the room.

The only place open for food today was the local museum, which sells regional products. None of which were suitable for dinner! We bought a bottle of wine and some fancy crackers and then bought things from the little food cupboard at the gite. I got a weird and not entirely pleasant tuna and bean salad in a can. Not recommended.

The big drama today was that the Irish girl from last night’s gite left without paying. The owners left a note for her on the kitchen table asking her to leave her payment there. I did not realize she had left before me. There was no money on the table. But eventually I caught up to her. I asked if she had seen the note, and she said no. Did she leave their money in her room? Nope.

She did not seem prepared at all for the walk today. One of the other women saw her later and gave her a bottle of water because she had no water. She had also broken her sandals. The two women who came after that did not see her. The person who let me into the gite asked if I was Katie. So she intended to stay here. Worrisome and annoying.

Tomorrow is shorter but higher. And then that is the end of these mountains I think.Read more