Currently traveling
  • Roland Routier

Renault Roaming

Italy -- Croatia - ?
All in my little Red Renault Trafic
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  • crndgfy je

    June 5, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Just inland from this untouched Istrian fjord I came across another ruin.
    This is all that remains of the fortified 11th C tower built by the Istrian Margave Ulrich I of Weimar above the village of Crni Kal to protect his trade routes between the Rizana Valley and the plateau. In 1370 it fell to the Bishop of Trieste as a result of the Venetian conquest but in 1615 it was destroyed during the Uskok wars.
    The building is the size of a living room with only 2 levels, with no room for supplies, horses etc etc. The only access is via a bridge across a 200m ravine and the place is 1000m above the valley floor. So I am at a loss to see how it might have offered any protection to anybody except the few souls incarcerated on guard duty.
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  • Formula 1 fort

    June 4, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Went to pay my respects to the birthplace of the famous Mario (and Aldo,) Andretti; being Motovun / Montona or Montona d'Istria), a village plonked on a hill 227m ASL in central Istria.
    Now preserved as a tourist theme park, I hadn't realised that I needed to climb 1052 steps to get into it. (No I didn't count them, I'm a trained statistician so I guessed the book was right.)
    Celts and Illyrians built their fortresses on the location and the name is derived from the Celtic word for 'a town in the hills'. Since the word is 'thet' I am not sure how it morphs into Motovun but thats what I'm told.
    The place is a well-preserved example of Venetian colonial architecture and has a nice view of the Mirna river and its numerous mosquitos below. Couldn't find anything different to draw your attention to, so I left after a quick perambulation.

    That night I spent in a peaceful valley in Slovenia, beside the fortified Holy Trinity Church in Hrastovlje. In the 16th C the residents built the wall around their small church to shelter from those beastly Ottomans.
    The church stands behind a wall that the local population built to protect itself from Turkish attacks in the 16th century. Slovenians called them 'tabor' and made lots of them.
    Nobody is quite sure of its origin and dates but it does have some interesting frescoes (better photos online.)
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  • Formula 1 fort

    June 4, 2019 in Slovenia ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Went to pay my respects to the birthplace of the famous Mario (and Aldo,) Andretti; being Motovun / Montona or Montona d'Istria), a village plonked on a hill 227m ASL in central Istria.
    Now preserved as a tourist theme park, I hadn't realised that I needed to climb 1052 steps to get into it. (No I didn't count them, I'm a trained statistician so I guessed the book was right.)
    Celts and Illyrians built their fortresses on the location and the name is derived from the Celtic word for 'a town in the hills'. Since the word is 'thet' I am not sure how it morphs into Motovun but thats what I'm told.
    The place is a well-preserved example of Venetian colonial architecture and has a nice view of the Mirna river and its numerous mosquitos below. Couldn't find anything different to draw your attention to, so I left after a quick perambulation.

    That night I spent in a peaceful valley in Slovenia, beside the fortified Holy Trinity Church in Hrastovlje. In the 16th C the residents built the wall around their small church to shelter from those beastly Ottomans.
    The church stands behind a wall that the local population built to protect itself from Turkish attacks in the 16th century. Slovenians called them 'tabor' and made lots of them.
    Nobody is quite sure of its origin and dates but it does have some interesting frescoes (better photos online.)
    Read more

  • Afjordable evening

    June 3, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    They call it a Kanal, but its really a fjord.
    Whatever its called, a peaceful setting for a glass of wine at the end of the day.

  • Rovin around Rovinj

    June 3, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I caught myself becoming a little irritated by waiters accosting me in German to invite me for a chow. Then I looked on the brightside: the many people who understood were sitting down to lunch, so I had the alleys pretty much to myself.Read more

  • Rovin around Rovinj

    June 3, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I caught myself becoming a little irritated by waiters accosting me in German to invite me for a chow. Then I looked on the brightside: the many people who understood were sitting down to lunch, so I had the alleys pretty much to myself.Read more

  • 2 things about Rovinj

    June 3, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    History you can guess: Byzantine - Frankish - Aquilean - Venetian - Austrian - Italian - Yugoslavian. Nuff said?
    Round tower had me fooled- thought I was in Albania again.
    Here are a couple of unusual facts:
    The bell tower of St Euphemia cathedral, named for the girl martyred on the wheel whose remains are kept in a box, was built in 1677 and modeled after that of St Mark in Venice. The copper statue is 3.9m high and 61.35m above the ground. This would pose a problem in the high winds of the Bora had it not been mounted on ball bearings. "La donna e mobile" as Pavarotti would have said / sung.
    It used to be a pre-condition of obtaining civil rights in the town that one had to build a chimney on ones house. In mediaevil times the island was already crammed with buildings, so new arrivals had to construct dream homes over the heads of existing ones, leading to an interesting thicket of chimneys.
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  • 2 things about Rovinj

    June 3, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    History you can guess: Byzantine - Frankish - Aquilean - Venetian - Austrian - Italian - Yugoslavian. Nuff said?
    Round tower had me fooled- thought I was in Albania again.
    Here are a couple of unusual facts:
    The bell tower of St Euphemia cathedral, named for the girl martyred on the wheel whose remains are kept in a box, was built in 1677 and modeled after that of St Mark in Venice. The copper statue is 3.9m high and 61.35m above the ground. This would pose a problem in the high winds of the Bora had it not been mounted on ball bearings. "La donna e mobile" as Pavarotti would have said / sung.
    It used to be a pre-condition of obtaining civil rights in the town that one had to build a chimney on ones house. In mediaevil times the island was already crammed with buildings, so new arrivals had to construct dream homes over the heads of existing ones, leading to an interesting thicket of chimneys.
    Read more

  • Sea Rovinj

    June 3, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Eschewing hyperbole, let us just agree that writer's claiming Rovinj to be the prettiest town in Istria / Croatia / Europe / the world may have a point.
    Rovinj (as Ruvignium, Ruvigno, Ruignio) was first mentioned early in the 8th C although it had probably been in settled for several centuries already.
    Until residents filled the channel in 1763 it was an island with a small hill at its centre and still has water on 3 sides.
    The submarine I was distraught to learn, is just a boat with a glass bottom.
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  • Good effort

    June 2, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Travelling around Istria one sees plenty of old towns on hills, like these. I was particularly taken by the efforts in one shattered place, where the inhabitants were making a determined effort to make it attractive for them and for visitors. The first sight to great you as you pass through the gates is this painted house with a few 'objets trouves' ranged on the walls. There were 2 shops selling art facing it. Thats all.Read more

  • Bakar oil & torpedoes

    June 1, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The roads around the seaside towns go round and round and up and down. This one is above the town of Bakar, now an oil and gas terminus - surprisingly not unsightly thanks to the vertical hills surrounding the inlet.
    A German Army unit equipped with large mobile dormitories, one in 3 vehicles, was on the move South accompanied by motorcycle outriders travelling in packs with their heads over the white dividing lines of the narrow roads and, naturally, at speed. Flocking Germans.

    My main port of call was Rijeka; to see the first torpedo launching station dating from the late 18thC, upgraded for the World Wars and, alas, abandoned ever since. In fact nobody really knew it even existed let alone where it could be found.
    But I did and here it is.
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  • Senj

    May 31, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I spent a night parked on a quiet, tree lined street by the Senj city gate. Greek and Roman geographers and historians mention a port named Senia where Senj stands today at the foot of the Velebit mountain.
    On top of the hill the mediaevil fortress has been turned into a restaurant so I enjoyed the gunners view of sunset.
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  • Senj

    May 31, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I spent a night parked on a quiet, tree lined street by the Senj city gate. Greek and Roman geographers and historians mention a port named Senia where Senj stands today at the foot of the Velebit mountain.
    On top of the hill the mediaevil fortress has been turned into a restaurant so I enjoyed the gunners view of sunset.
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  • Zadar

    May 30, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Brief visit to an old Liburnian settlement called Jadera and now Zadar whose boast is that having been settled in 9 BCE it is the oldest continuously inhabited town in Croatia. Unfortunately, the Allies bombed 75% of it flat during WWI but it has now been pieced back together and makes for a pleasant place to walk around.
    Unlike most of the places around here, the town managed to avoid being sacked during the Avar and Slavic invasions of Dalmatia (5–6 CE) and later Turkish attempts to incorporate it. It could not resist commercialisation though, being sold to the Venetians in 1409. The French breifly got their hands on it (1808 - 1813); otherwise from 1797 to 1920 it was Austrian followed by Italian and Yugoslavian.
    Brochures explain that there are 34 churches to see. I didn't.
    Instead I was captivated by the locals strolling about in traditional Croatian clothing. Actually, it seemed to be a competition between various folk clubs who danced, sang and chanted field songs on a stage in one of the squares. Mostly adolescents following an elderly leader.
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  • Zadar

    May 30, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Brief visit to an old Liburnian settlement called Jadera and now Zadar whose boast is that having been settled in 9 BCE it is the oldest continuously inhabited town in Croatia. Unfortunately, the Allies bombed 75% of it flat during WWI but it has now been pieced back together and makes for a pleasant place to walk around.
    Unlike most of the places around here, the town managed to avoid being sacked during the Avar and Slavic invasions of Dalmatia (5–6 CE) and later Turkish attempts to incorporate it. It could not resist commercialisation though, being sold to the Venetians in 1409. The French breifly got their hands on it (1808 - 1813); otherwise from 1797 to 1920 it was Austrian followed by Italian and Yugoslavian.
    Brochures explain that there are 34 churches to see. I didn't.
    Instead I was captivated by the locals strolling about in traditional Croatian clothing. Actually, it seemed to be a competition between various folk clubs who danced, sang and chanted field songs on a stage in one of the squares. Mostly adolescents following an elderly leader.
    Read more

  • Unexpected VISitor

    May 28, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Lucky to have a visit from Nandalie for the last few days of my stay on Vis.
    She came over with a group of drunken women determined to 'Have A Good Time' whether on-key or off as they visited their modern shrines to Mamma Mia.
    Weather wasn't brilliant but we managed a trip to the B24 diving school, (named after a bomber lying in 60m of water,) so that she could freshen up her PADI Open Water cert. She was grateful for the 8mm neoprene wetsuit as it was pretty chilly.
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  • DiVISion of labour

    May 25, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The famous dome and illustrious workers.
    Admire the craftsmanship in the rough stone walls and the skill of fitting wooden floors to a sloping and not quite circular geodesic plan.
    And yes, my friend really is black and has no African blood. Many people are repulsed but I found him a well read and articulate traveller with a bit of a philosophic disposition. If my Italian was better we would have extended our chats through most of the working day, so its just as well it isn't.Read more

  • RetroVISion

    May 22, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Vis is proud that it was never occupied by German's during WWII.
    The stone house is the cover for ladder access into a huge tunnel system stretching at least a kilometre under the headland.
    Vehicle access is from the side of another tunnel, whose entrance is camouflaged by polystyrene rocks suspended on a net.
    Yet another tunnel from the sea is a submarine pen.
    As you can imagine, springing up fast are a number of "military tours" that will take you to all these attractions in the comfort of a Series III Land-Rover for a fee. One side benefit of workaway is being able to bypass this and go around with a local in a comfy car.
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  • Some advis

    May 21, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    As one might expect Vis - the island farthest from the Croatian mainland and only 60 kms from Italy - was inhabited in Neolithic times.
    The Greek tyrant of Syracuse, Dionysius the Elder, founded the colony Issa on the island in 4 BCE in order to control shipping in the Adriatic. "Issa" is thought to have meant "spas" in Illyrian. As it prospered it became an independent polis, founding its own colonies, notably Aspálathos (modern Split), Epidauros (Stobreč), and Tragurion (Trogir). until eventually it became an "oppidum civium Romanorum" in 47 BCE.
    Until 1797, the island was under the rule of the Republic of Venice, remnants of this are traceable in the dialect of Komiža, (the second town on Vis situated on the West side,) as well as various buildings. In fact Italian was the official language and the island was called Lissa, until it came under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1814, returning to Italy after WWI before being traded to the kingdom of Yugoslavia as part of the 1920 Treaty of Rapallo.
    During most of these times, the unconsulted islanders cultivated every square inch of the land for grapes, especially its own, vugava, a white varietal that makes a jolly nice sundowner. Stone terraces, abandoned since WWII, can be seen on every slope and large piles of surplus rocks are found at the end of every wall.
    Italians had control and built extensive bunkers all over the place at the start of WWII until Josip Broz Tito and his partisan broz took it over. One of the few tourist sites on the island is "Tito's cave", though it is more of a small cavern than a cave and nobody here thinks Tito ever visited it. Evelyn Waugh was an early tourist in July 1944, popping in with one Randolph Churchill as part of the British military mission to Yugoslavia and airbnbing with Joe. They crash landed on their return to Bari, but Boeing deny all culpability.
    Of course, Yugoslavia got it back in the end as nobody else wanted it and most of the islanders hopped it - to America mainly. They had a military base cut off from foreign visitors from the 1950s right up until 1989. As far as we could discover wandering through the hulks it was mainly a training and R&R camp - nothing particularly secret exept for the fact that Communists were enjoying themselves in the same way as Westerners.
    The benfit from all this is that the island has been spared the overdevelopment of its shoreline and the growing number of visitrs come precisely because of that. Unfortunately, the Croatian government gave permission for "Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again" to be filmed here a year ago which has drawn too many of the Wrong Sort to come over in skinfulls of alcohol and the mistaken impression that they can sing like Abba. The ferry ride can be excruciating.
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  • Hosts

    May 20, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    My hosts are Filippo, an Italian from near Bologna, and Dayane who met him whilst at university there, having been born and raised in Split. After travelling around Europe selling their homemade, completely natural, traditional herbal remedies they decided to settle and start a retreat / yoga centre in a permaculture garden. Out of the blue an uncle offered them the use of an unused plot of land he owned in the centre of Vis that turned out to be ideally suited to their purpose. So for the last couple of years they have been engaging workawayers to help build a geodesic dome, a small house and the start of various gardens.
    During my stay I helped lay the fireplace stones, begin the flooring in the dome and begin a perimeter wall to support a stockproof fence, in this case to keep animals out rather than in.
    Any walk with Filippo through the countryside around their home took 5 times longer than necessary as he would stop at every different plant to explain what it was and its medicinal and culinary uses. His knowledge was matched by Dayane who spent large parts of the day wandering around collecting fresh food for dinner. It is no wonder they were vegetarians as we had delicious food for nothing! I found after a couple of weeks that I had not missed meat, at least not the hormone and antibiotic laden, machine killed meats found in supermarkets.
    Well, I confess to culinary thoughts about the numerous pheasants flying around but not having my Purdey's to hand I could not bag them.
    Also present were two of their friends from Italy, Andrea ( aka SKA,) and Monica . SKA is the overly tatooed man in the work photos and Monica is his slightly less tattoed consort. (Not surprising really, as she is the tatooist and he does piercings to earn their living.) They travel in a Mercedes 310 van with 4 fiercesome pit bull / something mongrels who are actually surprisingly timid and amiable.
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  • Port Vis-ions

    May 11, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Corinth had a colony in Sicily, Syracuse, whose tyrannical ruler Dionysius the Elder, founded his own colony Issa in the 4th century BCE to control shipping in the Adriatic Sea. Issa then established its own colonies, such as Aspálathos, (Split,) Epidauros (Stobreč), and Tragurion (Trogir). It was an independent polis until the 1st century BCE when it was conquered by the Roman Empire which had no use for it.
    "Issa" may have meant "spas" in Illyrian or maybe it was just the Pelasgian word for "island". Who cares?
    The well protected harbour of Vis, (the town,) lies in the Bay of Saint George (Uvala Svetog Jurja.)
    I had a quick snack by the old Roman theatre, now buried under a monestary, (closed of course,) then sped off to my next workaway.
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  • Splitting images of somewhere else

    May 10, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The ferry to Vis, my next workaway, leaves from Split. Unlike Dubrovnik which has become a Game of Thrones theme park, Split is still a working town even though it has a Unesco World Heritage Site.
    Diocletian’s Palace was a huge complex rather like the Forbidden City in Beijing; little remains but the walls. I rather like the way the city has absorbed the ruins into itself without a great deal of fuss.
    Its dramatic coastal mountains act as the perfect backdrop to the turquoise waters of the Adriatic; and help divert attention from the dozens of shabby high-rise apartment blocks that fill its suburbs.
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  • Diverting times

    May 10, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    One bridge along the coast road was being renovated; entailing a 1000m high diversion through tiny villages to cross the river. Along the way I came across this memorial to the partisans which is what one might expect to see all over ex-Yugoslavia, but doesn't.
    Nice view.
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  • Standing up for himself

    May 10, 2019 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Dukovic, a prominent not to mention upright resident of Herceg Novi, may have thought he was well endowed but I'm afraid he may have been deceiving himself as I couldn't even find it
    Herceg Novi was established as a fortress called Saint Stephen, (Castelnuovo,) in 1382 by Bosnian King Stephen Tvrtko I to facilitate and protect trade in salt and silk. Greek sources from the Vth C BCE record the existence previously of an Illyrian settlement, but traces of it are lost.
    ‘Herceg’ refers to Herceg (Duke) Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, who fortified the town in the 15th century.
    This statue of Bosnian King Tvrtko I is more than 5.5m high and weighs 1,2 tons. It was made in Zagreb by Serbian sculptor Dragan Dimitrijević who gave donated it to HN for the 631st anniversary of the town's foundation.
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