• Roland Routier
Matkustaa tällä hetkellä
lokak. 2018 – syysk. 2025

Renault Roaming

Italy -- Croatia - ?
All in my little Red Renault Trafic
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  • Oh Man! Did you see that?

    7. maaliskuuta 2020, Oman ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    A trans-planetary traveler missed the airport.

  • Gated communities

    5. maaliskuuta 2020, Oman ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The city gates remained resolutely locked and bolted against the outside world until 1970. Then Sultan Qaboos had a hole driven through the walls so that he and his citizens could drive their newly acquire Land Rovers and Rollers into town.
    All sorts of stuff flowed in, and Muscat spilled out along the adjacent coast.
    For many years the city gates continued to be locked on time every evening, despite the hole in the wall, until the gates were replaced with the archway seen today. Regrettably the ceremony was discontinued, unlike that famous one in the Tower of London, "The Keys".
    Another gate is known as the Rose Garden owing to the cascade of plants down its flank. Other than that it has and never had any purpose that I could discover.
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  • Right fort

    4. maaliskuuta 2020, Oman ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Also known as Ash Sharquiya Fort, Al Jalali stands to seaward of the palace on the East side over older, Arab foundations.. Some say that the fort’s name origin is "Al Jalal", meaning "great beauty", while others say the name is that of the Persian leader “Jalal Shah". When you decide which is more likely, reflect that the Portuguese built it in 1580.
    As you can see in the photo, the structure of this fort differs from left fort in that it has 2 main towers and a wall with canon holes. Access is limited to the protected stairway and bridge. So difficult to take and according to the Tourist Bureau a "perfect for protecting the palace."
    But, if it is difficult for people to get up into the fort it must also be difficult for soldiers to fight heir way down. And if their job is to protect the palace, they would need to come down to earth as they could not fire their canons into the palace - if they wanted to save it. So, go figure!
    The last 2 pictures are of the Police Station in Old Muscat. Government buildings all are designed as square forts.
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  • Left fort

    4. maaliskuuta 2020, Oman ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Perched on a rocky hill the larger of the 2 Portuguese forts overlooking the Royal Palace in the centre of the bay is Al Mirani Fort, which features in many 19th C lithographs of romantic naval engagements..
    Also known as Al Gharbiya Fort, Al Mirani protects the western approaches to the palace. The story goes that the Portuguese commander fell in love with the daughter of a Hindu merchant who supplied the garrison. This man was opposed to the match on religious grounds and was consequently threatened with Portuguese diplomacy. So he spent the next year preparing for the wedding, for which he persuaded the fort Commander to restock all the fort's supplies with fresh produce. Having removed the gunpowder and food in 1649, and before he had a chance to replace them,his chum, Sultan bin Saif retook the defenseless fort. And so the wedding did not eventuate and shortly afterwards the Portuguese left.
    Its still garrisoned so not open to the public.
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  • Flagged for gawpers

    3. maaliskuuta 2020, Oman ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Though not so poor that they couldn't give the Sultan a nice house. Built in 1972, the Al Alam Palace (“Flag Palace”), is the most important of 6 royal residences dotted around Muscat, Salalah and Sohar. One might think it was a film set for a Hollywood cartoon epic, but I am assured it is "Oman’s most flamboyant example of contemporary Islamic design, with two long wings centred on a colourful, cube-like central building, its flat, overhanging roof supported by extravagantly flared blue and gold columns".
    The palace was built on the site of the old British Embassy. The gos is that any slave who could reach and touch the flagpole in the front yard gained their freedom.
    The living quarters are discretely spread over an acre or two adjacent to the colourful focus, and the long marble approach is bordered by marble government buildings, like the Ministry of Finance.
    The palace isn’t open to the public.
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  • Arabia Felix

    2. maaliskuuta 2020, Oman ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Francois Le Gouz de Boullaye noted in his log "... on the 29th March [1648] we arrived within sight of Muscat, a city of Arabia Felix"; so named by the Romans who called it "Happy" because they believed it was a "blessed land shrouded in mystery & legend, whose peoples had amassed great fortunes by trading spices and aromatics."
    Frenchy Frank must have been virtually on the beach for as early as the 2nd-century Ptolemy had mentioned a ‘concealed harbour’ on the coast here but the settlement’s location, surrounded on three sides by mountains, made it all but inaccessible from the land. Indeed, the supposed original settlers, Arab tribes from Yemen, almost certainly approached from the sea.
    In the 13th C the ever helpful Iraqi geographer, Ibn Al Mujawir, disclosed that "the origin of the name is 'maskat. It is the port for trading with Sohar. The vessels coming from India, Zanziba and the North used to anchor in Maskat." Muscat -Maskat I never would have guessed.
    Muscat became the capital of Oman in 1793. All that is known about its early history is that it grew into a small port by the 14th and 15th C. From then it starting trading, especially with British Indiamen. The Portuguese took over in 1507 but lost it back to the Omanis by 1650 when they ceased to be a power in the area. The French had a go afterwards, but the Omani Sultan played thm off against the British, with whom Oman since then has had a partnership.
    By the 1970's , when an RMS Sandhurst cadet called Kaboosh bin Said bin Taimur graduated and took over the position of Sultan of Oman, Muscat was still a tiny and isolated town stretched along 800m of beach between Al Jalali and Al Mirani forts. There were 2 primary schools and a hospital linked to the 7 km asphat road. A landing strip for light aircraft and a port for small boats complete the infrastructure.
    The revered Sultan died on Jan 9th. I cannot say whether knowledge of my impending arrival was a factor; but he had just returned from a medical visit to Europe. In his time he managed to build the country into a significant player in the Gulf. The country has 200km of coast from UA Emirates to Yemen and covers 3900 sq km. He achieved this by skillfully playing off the major powers against each other and using his national income, primarily gas, to leverage some debt which allowed him to invest in modernisation and install English squre pin plugs everywhere. They are still a poor, indebted country though.
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  • Farewell

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    A day was plenty to trek round the whole of Stone Town, another World Heritage site that is being prettified for voyeurs. There was one museum I wanted to visit but it was closed for reparation so there wasn't all that much to see other than the allies and buildings.
    On the other hand ... ... ... there are different fingers. If one was after a nice couple of weeks break on a beach, with the option of a little bit of site seeing to break up the time, this is just the place. A day in Stone Town on arrival, off to the beaches and a day visiting plantations in the centre. Perfect.
    This International Airport also keeps travellers waiting in the sun for 40 minutes before allowing them through the x-ray machines and into the lounge to grovel before the check-in chicks. As usual only empty water-bottles are admitted past them: then it is straight through immigration to this grotty little departure lounge. [I dream of making an airline security officer demonstrate how to mix two 100ml bottles of liquid ingredients to create an explosive whilst sitting on a vibrating chair. Can't be done. The mixer provokes an exothermic reaction and gets burnt. Governments invent a possible disaster and say they are taking all measures to prevent its occurrence. Then when it doesn't happen they say that it is because of their actions! Brilliant politics and a bloody nuisance when the tap water is not drinkable and bottled water is sold at a premium] A tourist shop posing as a duty free and one snack counter offering drinks at 4 times the normal rate is the sum total of facilities. And there is no money exchange leaving the country.
    3 aircraft were scheduled to leave at around the same time, so the room was absolutely stuffed and the fans moved the hot stale air around without cooling anyone. When an airline employee opened an outside door there was a surge towards it that made the staff visibly nervous, but they too welcomed some air circulation. I waited until one flight left to take the photo, just so you can see the size.
    Agh. Africa.
    BTW the National Anthem for Tanzania is called “Mungu Ibariki Afrika.” If your Swahili is any good you will know this means “Nkosi Sikelel’ iAfrika” in Xhosa. Originally an African liberation song composed by Enoch Sontonga, South Africa adopted it for its own National Anthem in 1997, and Zimbabwe also claims it.
    "God Bless Africa"; 3 countries; 1 song. Can't sum it up better myself.
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  • Captivity

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    "We must find new lands from which we can easily obtain raw materials and at the same time exploit the cheap slave labor that is available from the natives of the colonies. The colonies would also provide a dumping ground for the surplus goods produced in our factories." [Cecil Rhodes]

    “Captivity is the greatest of all evils that can befall one.” » Miguel de Cervantes

    Slavery has always existed in various forms and even the Roman Seneca the Younger wrote “Slavery takes hold of few, but many take hold of slavery.”
    The East African slave trade was funneled to the markets in Zanzibar, (although there were several others on the mainland,) partly because there was already a well established trading route run by Omani Arabs up the coast. In the 10th Century many slaves were sent to Iraq to fight in wars there, but by the 19th C the enormous numbers required to work in the cinnamon & clove plantations inspired several tribal groups to prey on each other.
    All of the main racial groups were involved in the slave trade in some way or other. French and Portugese used slaves in their plantations in the Indian Ocean islands (Martinique, Reunion etc), and Africans captured and sold prisoners taken in battle, or just kidnapped them. (The British developed the Western, Atlantic routes which competed for heads.)
    There was a fate worse than slavery: when there was a glut of potential slaves the Doe tribe north of Bagamoyo enjoyed eating the ‘excess supplies’.
    The trip down to the coast -often 1000 km - was unpleasant and an astonishing number died. One would imagine that the slavers would look after their assets but they were marched enormous distances daily on a bowl of gruel with a log around their necks or carrying enormous quantities of ivory. Any that couldn't make it were disposed of unceremoniously. Then, when they were near Zanzibar, the traders decided whether it was worth paying the tax or duty on each person: if not they were murdered on the beach.
    In Stone Town they were kept in various cellars such as the one photographed. Stuffy and claustrophobic, after an average of 3 days in here the weakest collapsed and were chucked on the beach to die. The rest were taken up to the market and apparently flogged on the spot where the Anglican Church's altar now stands; to increase their sale value if they didn't cry out. (I suspect this is a bit of hyperbole for the tourists but then, it wouldn't surprise me.) After all that, being sold must have seemed a minor problem for, whilst plantation life was certainly rough, domestic life was better than they might have had previously.
    One testimony in the exhibition on the site of the old slave markets, is from a woman who was accused of being someone's slave and managed to prove her manumission to the magistrate. She was awarded a sum of money and when asked what use she would make of the cash, said that she would buy a slave.
    Another celebrity was Salme (1824-1924), the daughter of Omani Sultan Sayeed Said (d. 1856) and a Circassian concubine from the Caucasus Mountains of Russia who was part of the his harem. She eloped with a German merchant, changed her name to Emily Ruete and wrote "Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar" about her life.
    Many women were suria, which was a state of slavery for them but not their children. This has resulted in a rich and varied gene pool in Zanzibar, often in particularly attractive people.
    In 1822, the Omani Arabs signed the Moresby treaty which made it illegal for them to sell slaves to Christian powers. After helping to convince Sultan Barghash of Zanzibar to abolish the trade on 6th June 1873, (in the usual British Diplomatic way,) the Royal Navy enforced the agreement by patrolling the waters and intercepting any dhows with human cargo.
    Interestingly, the good Anglican sailors deliberately attributed the trade in its entirety to heathen Mohammedans. In fact, the richest trader was the infamous Tippu Tip (1837-1905) otherwise known as Hamed bin Mohammed, who was African. Usually though, it was the Africans who collected and the Arabs who divested.
    Despite the best efforts of HM Navy, and numerous photos of rugged matelots lofting liberated and wriggling brown babies into the air, (one can rely on the British shoulder for innocent propaganda,) the trade continued, particularly on the mainland. Slaving was illegal but existed openly until Britain defeated the Germans in the First World War.
    Freedom was not all it cracked up to be, even when the illiterate and often isolated plantation slaves finally understood what it meant that they were free. Some slaves had even been allowed to save a little money they made for their owner and buy property: on manumission they lost the land. Worse, they could not stay on the plantation as squatters and had to leave, becoming vagrants and thus subject to imprisonment and hard labour. The British authorities were concerned about keeping the now government owned plantations running and offered minimal wages to ex-slaves to continue working. Restricted land rights and a compulsory hut tax made sure they never escaped.
    Thus the modern system of slavery was introduced. It has grown in the 21stC in every country of the world to somewhere between 21 to 36 million people. That is more than the number of slaves seized during the entire African slave trade. The International Labour Organisation has put the value of slave labour output at 150 billion USD annually. This includes bonded labour, forced labour, child slavery, early or forced marriage as well as descent based slavery.
    In the news over the past few days, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute revealed that the Uighurs were being captured and made to work as prisoners for multinational companies in China. They are an Islamic people of Turkic origin whom the Chinese Communist Party portrays since 9/11 as auxiliaries of al-Qaeda. Without any evidence. But that didn't stop the US locking 20 of them in Guantanamo Bay for years without being charged with any offence. We don't really care about them of course, (we care about big Brand names being tarnished and wasting all that advertising money,) but still it is slavery.

    “The distinguishing sign of slavery is to have a price, and to be bought for it.” [John Ruskin]
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  • Entrancing

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Not too musical but a mere 400,000 TSh will get you a carved Door, though for that price it will be more like a nick on the edge than anything like these ones.

    The four-fold doors with an pair adjacent are common and still in use. They are known as Gujarati doors because the Indian lads used to open a shop with 4-fold doors, living at the back of the shop. As business improved they built a second story accessed by the adjacent dual door entrance for their wives and children. Though maybe the wives and children came first and then the second floor. Nobody seems to know and I know how frustrating it must be not to be informed of these details. Sorry about that.Lue lisää

  • Artistes

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Even though Zanzibar is known as the Spice Island, the Spice Girls were not its most famous offspring.

    The greatest man, at least for my generation, was Farrokh Bulsara, the son of Parsi Indian parents. He used to live in this house, or maybe not as there is more than one claimant to associative prestige. The Zanzibar Revolution in 1964 encouraged the family to flee to Middlesex, where he continued to live until dying of complications due to aids.

    Bend the knee respectively for I speak of Royalty; the Queen, and in particular Freddy Mercury.

    Another famous building is the Majestic Theater; apparently the first flick shack in Africa. Again, the story is a little light on details: some say the original burnt down and this is a replica, or maybe just a new building. At any rate, it is now reduced to replaying football matches on a projection TV.

    BTW Zanzibar is also renowned for the Doors, more of that later.
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  • Malindi Art

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    The bar did open in the morning - for breakfast. A plate of fruit and an omelette accompanied by a pot of tea with milk on the side were all included in the 30,000 TSh room price. The shared bathrooms did not alter my appreciation of my first good brekky, the value for money and the amazing decorations. Some of the artwork, made from recycled materials and all usable, was inspired and every square inch of wall was covered in A3 sized prints and photographs from a variety of sources. Had to be seen to be believed ...Lue lisää

  • Deja view

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    When the taxi took me into the dark streets behind the fishing port, I was a little concerned about the standard of the cheap hotel I had found on booking.com
    In fact it was a wonderfully decorated old building that could have been a 1970's hippy hangout in Holland.
    I went up to the rooftop in the evening and found this terrace. There was a counter but no bar which surprised me as they would have made a fortunefrom its location.
    On my way to bed I was waylaid by a charming young Polish couple who insisted I join them for some Bacardi. How could I refuse. She was a gospel singer earning her living selling photovoltaic panels in a tiny, unpronounceable town in Poland and her friend Simon worked in Gloucester for Amazon. It was his 33rd birthday and they had gone to the roof expecting to find company to help celebrate, instead they found me and we had a jolly chat about life and philosophy at the postgraduate level as only a litre of duty-free rum can invoke.
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  • Aspiring architecture

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Hidden in a maze of old Zanzibar lanes, St Joseph's looks a little clumsy compared to the spires of the mosques.

  • Rocky Road

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Stone Town is the UNESCO World Heritage listed part of the capital and a maze of small alleys like every other old town in the world. Could easily be Andalucia except for the young girls having lunch beside the road.
    Most of the town was built in the 19th century when Zanzibar was one of the most important trading centres in the Indian Ocean region. The coraline rock of Zanzibar was a good building material but it is also easily eroded and many houses are falling apart. Thanks to UNESCO they are gradually being fixed up and a theme park developed.
    Really, this is just a bit of quasi-cultural voyeurism for sweaty tourists looking to spend a couple of weeks on one of the delightful beaches, It is easy to avoid Tanzanian poverty by not venturing into the interior except perhaps on an air-conditioned tour of one of the clove or cinnamon plantations.
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  • Stone Town

    1. maaliskuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Even though Tanganyika merged with the Zanzibar Archipelago in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still considers itself almost independent, or at least the leader.
    One claim to fame is that it held the shortest war in history. The Anglo-Zanzibar War of 1896 lasted less than an hour, between 38 and 45 minutes.
    It was the usual story of gun-boat diplomacy and closely followed the Imperial rules of engagement:
    1. Sultan appoints a successor without consulting the British
    2. Miffed British Consul demands appointment of a more tractable puppet, Hamud bin Muhammed
    3. Sultan disdains option
    4. Royal Navy has some target practice on the Sultan's Palace; 4,100 machine gun rounds; 1,000 rifle rounds; and 500 shells were launched.
    5. Hamud found to be a worthy successor.
    6. War ends
    Now the town is invaded by hordes of unsuitably or partially dressed tourists flouting local sensibilities in the humid 34 degree heat.
    ------------
    One building, now the home of the Baraza La Manispaa Mjini or Municipal Council, is noteworthy for being "generally considered one of J.H. Sinclair's less-significant works"; perhaps not surprising for a man who after finishing his apprenticeship in 1891 joined the prestigious architectural office of John L. Pearson in London but "showed no great promise as an architect".
    Since he couldn't be an architect John Houston Sinclair became something in a new financial audit department of the Foreign Office in December 1893. They quickly shunted him off to East Africa to become the the local auditor for the East African Protectorate in Kenya, beginning a career in East Africa that would span 29 years.
    After three years in Mombassa he was posted to Zanzibar in April 1899 where, not learning from experience he built a number of structures in Stone Town, in a style described as "Saracenic," a mish-mash of Arabic, Portugese, Italian, Greek, Indian and Gothic vernaculars.
    The building was commissioned by a rich rich Indian merchant, Mohamedbhai Sheikh Hoosenbhai, who belonged to a Bohora family. Begun in 1922 and completed in 1923 it was originally a tenement block for clients of varying status, located in the Malindi Quarter of Stone Town on the edge of the creek that divided Stone Town from Ng'ambo. Thus, it is all facade and the rear is virtually undecorated.
    This is evident from the rent records that the owner's family occasionally occupied the building when tenants were scarce. In an effort to secure higher rent, the building was leased to the Senior British members of the Zanzibar protectorate probably around 1925, after JHS concluded his his time in Africa having reached the pinnacle of his career in the position of Resident from 1922-1924.
    Stone Town is now on the World Heritage list, with access to international funding to restore significant buildings. The canny Town Council now describe Bharmal Building as a beautiful, historic edifice exemplifying the rich Zanzibar fusion of Oriental and Romanesque architecture and plans are afoot for its restoration.
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  • Last stop in Tanzania

    29. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Alas, Saint Nicholas made a unilateral decision to go to the airport by bus, so I didn't get an easy trip to Mbeya where I was to stay a night with the Bros before flying out the next day.
    Last time at the bus station it was dark and raining, this time it was light and raining. As I sat on my bags sheltering against a wall with my brolly covering as much as possible - an exercise in futility when the rain drops bounce half a metre back off the ground - I vainly tried to contact Bro Michael who wasn't on WhatsApp for some reason. In the end I managed to contact the Procurator in Mvimba who organised a lift to the House for me. There are only 3 monks resident but all were happy to see me at supper that night.
    Next morning Bro Michael took me to see their farm, which is right behind the main house. The pasture feeds the cows who appear to enjoy his company, (might be different if he was a friar though,) and they keep chickens, ducks, rabbits and turkeys.
    Bro Guido, the Brother Superior, wasn't going to show me his workshop but I barged in all the same. As soon as I admired the traditional wood-working bench which I not seen in use in Tanzania we became good mates. Turns out he built the thing himself. Since 1970 he has been turning out these little marquetry boxes for use as tabernacles. They are precisely made and I congratulated him on being the only cabinet maker in the country as most workmen seemed to be happy using their legs as a vice and living with the slipshod results. He was chuffed was Guido and so he should be.
    Well Michael the ex-mechanico, (as he claims,) says is happy to take me to the airport in his sports car for a mere 30,000 TSh and I am happy to give him his outing as I can't be bothered with another bus. He charged me another 20,000 for accommodation which took me by surprise because I was just getting used to being treated as a guest of the Monastery! But they too have very little money to keep the place going so I wasn't too worried, especially as its about Euros 7.
    A rather subdued performance from a mechanico I thought but then it was raining again as we drove to the airport. Corona fever had reached even this far and staff were being made to wear those rather ineffective and uncomfortable paper face masks. The security man even checked every mouth entering the terminal with a digital thermometer. My main concern was trying to get into the place without a ticket: I was told that all I needed to check-in was my passport and indeed this was the case until now. The door guard was having nothing of this and summoned an airline rep to come outside and print me something, which she duly did.
    At check-in we discovered that the flight to Zanzibar was Zahn Air not Air Tanzania, even though both appeared on the billing as Hahn Air. As far as I eventually worked out, Hahn is a booking company. This meant that I couldn't check my bag through to Zanzibar and I had 30 minutes to change terminals. Air Tanzania gave me a phone number to call and Mr Reuben said he would arrange for the plane to wait.
    Well I arrived 5 minutes before take-off - I could see the small plane on the tarmac - but the lady refused to get me on it. It seems that she has a problem with Mr.Reuben who it turns out works for another company, Coastal, and presumably made some unwelcome advances to the young Zahn Air lady. My famous charm turned her round and she booked me on a later flight with yet another carrier - for another USD50. In the end I arrived at the Malinda Hotel an hour later than predicted.
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  • Every day is Xmas Day.

    26. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    This explains all.
    A Summer camp to teach Tanzanians about the muzungu Father Xmass! No wonder they don't feel the need to exert themselves to make money to get the things they desire.

  • Roadside halt to be.

    23. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    On the way back to the airport at Mbeya I Stopped at Sumbawanga, where Mvimba have a house and the secondary school, (see photos from 20th Jan). This time in true cargo cult style, the brothers offered a good meal, wine and free lodging as I was travelling with the German moneybags who had to placated with rich offerings so that he would keep returning.

    One of the projects dear to the heart of the Bro Superior - Nicholas, the bloke in charge - is the construction of a truck stop / service area on the main road heading East. We spent an hour and a half getting there, subjected most of the journey to an excited expose of his concept. In summary, he wants to build a super-loo, (sic), surrounded by a restaurant, motel, rest area, car wash, market and a secondary school for girls with babies. The multi-story loo, though a little potty for some, will be a wind powered, content rich and flush-full of various stimulating and attractive designs to tickle the imagination (at least); thereby drawing visitors to the edifice like flies to its contents.

    Attached to the complex is a large agricultural expanse. Capitalising on the output of the former to feed the crops, the range and variety of plants will extend beyond the existing sunflowers and maize to include school dinners and a tree plantation - and raw materials for the superloo.

    It all seems so obvious when explained like that; cause, effect and solution all in one facility. Hopefully it will be equally compelling to the 2 buses and 3 cars per hour that use the road currently.

    We had fun in the group flying the German's drone around to measure the perimeter so that the architects could mull over Design focussed on Award Winning Colonic Vacation. Someone parked their wheelbarrow out along the road but I could not see any Irishmen so I left it. It was full of holes anyway.

    After flight above ground we decided to walk through the ground as the morning rain had loosened the surface nicely and we favoured enhancing by tactile stimulation the architects Vision. Perhaps studying the output of a Great Artist like Twoloos Lautrac might have been more productive, but instead we walked barefoot a couple of km, squidging warm, soggy mud and something else through our toes, down to the shallow lake where we lunched and had a siesta on an artificial hill above the primal ooze.
    Work on site has commenced but not very advanced yet, so instead of a visual of the above, be amazed at the at the guards' houses and marvel at the cattle. (Ah! Thats where the 'something else' came from.)

    Now don't poo-poo the concept too quickly. This is a country where only 30.2 % of households have, (to use the Governments words,) "improved toilet facilities", ie running water. It may be a novelty but it also fulfils a necessary utility. Remember the words of the sage: "If you can do do do."
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  • Centre for advancing backwards

    22. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Look up from the Monastery towards the hill in the distance: then gaze down in silent contemplation of the buildings from the site of a future meditation centre.
    The Man himself: Pambo Abbot of Mvimba glows brightly as he poses with an insouciant yet debon air on top of his rock on which he too wishes to build a church.
    The landscape up here is a primary pebble-dash, though the pebbles are quite large. In fact, with a little application it could be turned into an African mega-zen garden - eminently suitable for a retreat centre.
    Of course, there is no money for a project like this and the reason the Abbot is with us is to butter-up the German representative of supertecture who has been visiting and who is to be cajoled into finding donations. The monks descriptions of their ideas end up sounding like an advert for a French Village de Vacances, where impoverished street kids can bask in the healthy air, absorbing the peacefulness of the unspoilt countryside. I keep my mouth shut about the cost of getting to the place which would eliminate 99% of poor Tanzanian children since I know this is benevolence on display and really, they just want a church to brag about.
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  • Not black enough for you ?

    21. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    What are you talking about: it's round and black. What more do you want? Rubber!!!?
    Anyway, it is only holding up a 3 tonne truck so you don't need anything fancy.

    Tired? I'd say!

  • Head office

    20. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The grounds cover an area of rich agricultural land about 3 by 4 km square. About 60% I would guess lies fallow for lack of manpower - and equipment.
    They have all the usual farm animals and also a crumbly cat. One Brother has started a salami factory leisurely extruding some tasty beef. They use pre-mixed German sausage spices so could do with a bit of spicing up! (Garlic, pepper etc)
    The new church is the Abbot's pride and joy. Just love the scaffolding.
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  • Big House

    20. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Since my host has spent the last 4 weeks away from the site I have not progressed far in helping sort out the project management, so I hitched a ride with the Abbot back to the main monastery so make a report.
    As one might expect, the monastery is populated with monk eys. There are only a few priests and many Brothers all of whom are generous in their welcome and hospitality.
    This place is a model of how the Kipili site should be, with agriculture, animal husbandry, workshops and vocational training facilities as well as monastic buildings. Why it isn't has been revealed to me, obliquely.
    It seems that Bro Gasper used to be the Procurator, (the equivalent of an Operations Manager,) here until a year ago. Then his inability to handle money in a transparent way provoked the Abbot into sending him to Kipili. Since he has no talent for management and feels he has been demoted, he avoids the place as much as possible. The Germans have noticed as well as me! Now they are stuck because they do not know what to do with him, and the African culture in a Benedictine environment does not allow anyone to make suggestions to the Abbot who is assumed to know everything about everything.
    My documents about improving processes has therefore been referred back to Bro Gasper for action, which nobody expects to eventuate.
    Since the handling of the money entrusted to him has been used in a way that I can only describe as dishonest, in Australia it would be illegal and the Charities Trust would investigate, I would have thought the Abbot would attend to the spiritual side - the immoral behaviour - without delay. But this is Africa; and the Catholic Church has survived for this long with a practical attitude to peccadilloes. And maybe the Abbot is doing something in a round-a-bout way, who knows?
    Benedictine communities belong to Congregations, which start with one Abbey grow by spawning off-shoots. This one belongs to a German Congregation, the Missionary Benedictines of St Ottilien, founded in 1884 which has spread into 55 Houses around the world . The procurator from HQ, one Fr Anastasius, has just been to audit the activities here and left rolling his eyes. For example, an African is responsible for looking after his family, and if he has money in his hand is expected to share some of it. The idea that the money is not his is beyond anyones's comprehension: I see the cash, its in your hand, therefore you have money, therefore you share it. Just because you joined another group does not relieve you of your duty so be sanguine. Some Brothers with less intellectually developed notions even question why they can't have a young girl to look after them.
    It all sounds as if stories of the Medieval Church had come to life and I anticipate a large meal with choice wines at the home of a Tanzanian Prince Bishop. Well, maybe I'm just having funny dreams after an unrestricted diet of beans, ugali and rice.
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  • Sisters

    16. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    About a kilometre away from the monks, three jolly Benedictine sisters have created a self-contained but still decrepit House and warmly welcome visitors.
    The big attraction at the moment is the huddle of 1 week old puppies with whom the cat has fraternal feelings. They keep pigs, chickens and a bowl of pigeons for nourishment and to sell the eggs. Behind the birds a mosquito net has been hung over the dog basket.
    One of the visitors is a German lady who has been trying to establish a micro-bank in a nearby town. She has returned because the capital her church had collected mysteriously disappeared. The ladies who received the funds used them as intended and paid back the loans, but the manager of the funds cannot explain where the money has gone. Africa!
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  • Building site

    15. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The first buildings to go up will be an accommodation block for the supertecture group. The young architects have designed a group of old containers to sit on a prime location by the lakeside. In contrast, an adjacent building created in a more traditional African vernacular sits abandoned except for the occasional pig.Lue lisää

  • Kitchen garden

    14. helmikuuta 2020, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    The smoke blackened room used as a kitchen is so uninviting that food is prepared on open fires outside.
    Susanna is seen here boiling beans whilst Anastasia is butchering some fish on the old bed springs serving as a kitchen table.
    In Africa, all sorts of hangers-on gravitate to the kitchens when food is available and this mother with her two offspring are enjoying their victuals provided by the monks meagre food allowance. Apparently our host Bro Gasper keeps some of the allocation to fuel his 4WD so that he can visit his mates in Sumbawanga. This has caused tensions with the German architects from supertecture who are actually doing the building work and feel that the addition of vegetables would give them a better balance diet and who believe that occasional fruits would not be a luxury: especially since their contract with Mvimba Monastery stipulates that they should be fed.
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