Reiser for tiden
  • Roland Routier

Renault Roaming

Italy -- Croatia - ?
All in my little Red Renault Trafic
Les mer
  • Withering heights

    2. mars 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Popped into central Sicily for my last night before next workaway. One of the drawbacks of spending the night up there is the 5 degree drop in temperature making for a chilly night.
    The Siculi, an ancient Sicilian tribe,established this town which became a centre for the pre-Hellenic cult of Demeter and Kore (Persephone.) It sits on a plateau dominating the valley of the Dittaino, northeast of Caltanissetta.
    Originally Henna and then Enna, it was under Greek influence, first from Gela (7th century BCE) and later from Syracuse, after which it fell into the hands of the Syracusan tyrant Dionysius I in about 397 bc. After a brief period of Carthaginian rule, it passed to the Romans in 258 gaining notoriety as the HQ of the great Sicilian slave revolt (134–132).
    From the highest point, nearly 1000m ASL, most of the Sicilian cost can be surveilled; making it an important stronghold in the Middle Ages. Held by the Saracens from 859 until 1087, it was then taken by the Normans. Its medieval name Castrogiovanni, derived from the Arabic Kasr-Yani, is a corruption of the Latin Castrum Hennae. A favourite residence of the emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen and of Frederick II and III of Aragon, it was among the first Sicilian cities to rally to the Italian cause in 1848 and 1860. In 1927 it resumed its ancient name.
    When I tried to park in one of the streets, a man started gesticulating wildly indicating I should follow him. Intrigued, I did; wondering what the sting would be. He led me up to a big free parking spot where I could remain undisturbed. Then he swung open the boot of his little car to reveal bags of nuts and things and insisted I buy a kilos worth of something - for 10 euros. Since it was the same price in supermarkets, and I appreciated his marketing effort, I did so. Nuts anyone?
    + From the summit you can clearly see the Rocca di Cerere; the foundations of the Temple of Demeter on its little promontory.
    + The Castello di Lombardia is an important example of military architecture in Sicily. 6 of its original 20 towers remain, dominating the town at the top of sheer cliffs. It is said that whenever it exchanged hands throughout history it was inevitably through treachery not force.
    + rather splendid plaque for the Carabinieri stuck on one wall. Move over Carmen Miranda .
    Les mer

  • Its a gas

    23. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    Vulcano has been quiet since the eruption of the Fossa cone on 3 August 1888 to 1890, which deposited about 5 m (16 ft) of pyroclastic material on the summit.
    This eruption of Vulcano was carefully documented at the time by Giuseppe Mercalli. Mercalli described the eruptions as "...Explosions sounding like a cannon at irregular intervals..." As a result, vulcanian eruptions are based on this description.
    The style of eruption seen on the Fossa cone is called a Vulcanian eruption, being the explosive emission of pyroclastic fragments of viscous magmas caused by the high viscosity preventing gases from escaping easily.
    A typical vulcanian eruption can hurl blocks of solid material several hundreds of metres from the vent.
    I just knew that you would want photos from inside this volcano, so felt obliged to ignore the signs pericolo di morte which alerted me to the dangerous fumes and to venture up the 600m cone and down into its depths. Being alone meant I could descend the crater to the floor: my decision made easier by seeing the initials of other brave souls scribed in stone piles on the ground.
    Les mer

  • Vulcano

    23. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    40 minutes from Milazzo by hydro-plane, lies the island of Vulcano, where Africa smashes into the Eurasian plate, (which Africans are still doing.)
    True to form, the ancient Greek imaginative name was Thérmessa (source of heat). The island appeared in their myths as the private foundry of the Olympian god Hephaestus, the patron of blacksmiths.
    Similarly, the Romans believed that Vulcano was the chimney of the god Vulcan's workshop and therefore named the island after him. The island had grown due to his periodic clearing of cinders and ashes from his forge. The earthquakes that either preceded or accompanied the explosions of ash were considered to be due to Vulcan making weapons for the god Mars and his armies to wage war.
    The most recently active centre is the Gran Cratere at the top of the Fossa cone, the cone having grown in the Lentia Caldera in the middle of the island, and has had at least nine major eruptions in the last 6000 years.
    At the north of the island is Vulcanello (123 m (404 ft)), connected to the rest of it by an isthmus which is flooded in bad weather. It emerged from the sea during an eruption in 183 BCE as a separate islet. Occasional eruptions from its three cones with both pyroclastic flow deposits and lavas occurred from then until 1550, with the last eruption creating a narrow isthmus connecting it to Vulcano.
    I was one of the first visitors to arrive today, and consequently was able to wander around alone. Of course, the mud bath was closed but did not look as inviting as I thought it might be. Since one emerges from a dip smelling strongly of sulpher and not having shower facilities anywhere at my disposal, I passed on without indulging myself. One doesn't want to walk around smelling like hell.
    The island is famed, at least in the guide book, for its black beaches. If they had a radio show here it would be called Deserted Island Disks.
    Les mer

  • Mylae (without US Army intervention)

    22. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    According to Homer's Odyssey, Ulysses was shipwrecked here and met the lovely Polyphemus.
    The town originated as the ancient Mylae, an outpost of Zancle, occupied before 648 BC, perhaps as early as 716 BC. It has been a fishing port for all time.
    After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, under the Byzantines, the town became one of the first episcopal seats of Sicily. In the 9th century Milazzo was conquered by the Arabs, who built the first nucleus of the castle here. Frederick II of Hohenstaufen further fortified the town and created a personal hunting park. The castle was later mostly rebuilt in the age of Charles V of Spain.
    Milazzo was also the seat of a battle in 1718 between Spain and Austria, and of another fought by Giuseppe Garibaldi against the Kingdom of Two Sicilies during his Expedition of the Thousand.
    Now it is still mainly a port with a huge industrial park between it and the rest of Sicily.
    Les mer

  • Wether to get up - or not

    22. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Lest you think that all is sunshine and spring flowers, here is the view from my window this morning. The van was rocking and the spray covering everything. Quite cosy in the van with my book.
    Later I drove up into the hills for a change. It started snowing on the autostrada, but I found a way up to Castelbuono which was open. Not that there was much to see in another medieval town!Les mer

  • Black magic old town

    21. februar 2019, Italia

    Here's a bit of geology:
    A long, long time ago a handsome shepherd named Daphnis was devoted to sheep and bucolic singing. He was a mediterranean deity embodying the vital spirit of Nature.
    It came to pass that a nymph called Echenais fell maddly in love with him, but he would have none of it. So, this is Sicily remember, in a fit of jealousy and rage, she blinded him.
    Eventually he allowed himself to die and Aphrodite transformed him into the rock of Cefalù, which is where I am today.
    The earliest evidencedates back to prehistoric times and comprises a handful of lines scratched into the walls of a cave. Nobody has the foggiest notion why.
    Later the ancient Greeks colonised the place, calling it imaginatively Kephaloidion - head shaped promentory.
    When the Romans arrived they moved the town up onto the Rock for safty from pirates like the Vandals and then Saracens. The remains of some fortifications, traces of warehouses, and baking ovens date to the Byzantine period can be seen.
    Ther rainwater collection system, military barracks, church of St Anne and Calogero were also part of the town on the rock, allowing it to be self-sufficient for a considearble time. After a long, Saracen seige the town surrendered in 857. There is no evidence of subsequent human habitation.
    The house belonged to Edward Alexander Crowley, who preferred the name Aleister, a pansexual, mystic, occultist, ceremonial magician, deviant, recreational drug experimenter, poet and accomplished mountaineer (he climbed K2 and other heights,) who was also known as Frater Perdurabo and The Great Beast 666. The British press called him “The Wickedest Man in the World.”
    Aleister is famous for introducing sex and drugs as sacramental rituals into a system he called Magick, after experimenting with Argentium Astrum and Ordo Templi Orientis, ( Order of the Eastern Temple.) He believed in finding one’s “True Will”, summed up in the Law of Thelema (the religion he established): “Do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the Law.” Followers were to shirk societal norms and follow hedonistic impulses. The inherent individualism of Thelemic values were later to be absorbed into the sixties counter-culture.
    In 1919 he had a revelation. He and his followers had to create a temple, the Abbey of Thelema; motto: “Collegium ad Spiritum Sanctum” The group settled in Cefalù, where he and his lover Leah Hirsig, rented this house dedicated to ritual practices. Crowley’s own bedroom, labeled by himself as “la chambre des cauchemars” (or “the room of nightmares”) was entirely hand-painted by the occultist with explicitly erotic frescos, hermaphroditic goblins, and vividly colored monsters.
    Later Crowley recalled his time in Cefalù as one of the most prolific and happy of his life, even though he suffered from drug addiction and had to write the scandalous Diary of a Drug Fiend to finance his community.
    Crowley and his people were evicted by Mussolini’s regime in 1923. The dictator had no sympathy for pornographic art or mysticism. Once the Abbey closed, the villagers whitewashed the murals, which they somewhat correctly saw as demonic. This erased much of the history and work of Crowley in Cefalù. Afterwards, the house was considered haunted and remained abandoned until 1955, when Kenneth Anger, an experimental filmmaker and follower of Crowley, located the ruins of the villa and attempted (unsuccessfully) to restore the Chambre des Cauchemars.
    I thought there might be something to photograph as a change to Byzantine mozaics, but nobody in the Tourist office or library would admit to any knowledge about the place or its history, so I could not gain access, although I worked out where it was through a process of elimination.
    He founded the religious philosophy of Thelema which enforced an idealist, libertine rule of “Do what thou wilt.”
    Les mer

  • Play-tex time

    20. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I have nothing to say about this, other than to point out to parents' of prospective pupils that they may be confident of plenty of support being provided in the classroom.

  • Shock! Horror! Shame!

    20. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The Praetorian Palace is so named because it has always housed the cities administration and is now the Town Hall / Palermo mayor's office, whence Piazza Pretoria and Fontana Pretoria.

    The fountain ws designed by by Francesco Camilliani for a private villa but bought by the Town Council and erected in front of the Town Hall in 1573. The basin is decorated with more than 50 statues of all kinds of animals, monsters, harpies, sirens and tritons. Many of them are depicted without clothes which outraged and shocked the locals so much that they "Fontana della Vergogna". (But they still kept this Fountain of Shame).

    Goethe, visiting Sicily in 1787, was appalled.
    Les mer

  • My oath

    20. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The museum is in a nice old villa build around a courtyard.
    One type of fascinating article on display are these lead sheets called "defixiones", from the Latin verb defigere, (stab immobilise nail down.)
    They have been half-inched from the sanctuary of Demeter Malophoros at Selinunte, where they had been deposited 2700 years ago.
    Originally they would have been folded up, had pins stuck through them and then been placed in contact with the infernal cthonic divinities, who were sometimes named as guarantors.
    By now you may have guessed what was written on them.
    Curses.
    Thousands have been found, usually relating to love affairs desired or thwarted, and judiciary disputes. Included was the name of the target, (sometimes only that,) incomprehensible signs suggesting magical associations and details of what is supposed to happen. Some of them clearly have a structure as if copied from a catalogue or handbook on cursing.

    Maybe this explains the expressions on the faces of the 3 citizens?
    Les mer

  • Brands you can trust

    20. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    In the museum:

    The set of IKEA saucepans, with a base designed for electric hobs, are over 3000 years old! In those days they made them in bronze rather than aluminium.

    The stone holes from the same period are actually standard measures for grain. In the bottom of each one there is a plug so your purchase can be bagged in front of you.Les mer

  • Admiral's church

    19. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Like the bridge, this is another gift to Palermo from the Syrian-Greek adventurer George of Antioch. This guy fronted up to the ambitious Norman King Roger II after being in service to the North African Zirid Sultan, Tamim ibn Muizz. Before you know it he commanded the Sicilian navy, such as it was.
    The word "admiral" comes to us from them, derived from the Arabic title “emir al-bar,” roughly translating to “chief military commander of the sea.”
    He was pretty successful, (for example capturing the Byzantine island of Corfu and establishing a Norman colony on the coast of modern-day Tunisia,) and used this success to build and donate the Matorana to Palermo. As is often the case, he overreached himself trying to capture the whole Byzantine Empire, and died in 1151 or 1152 in the Aegean (1151 or 2).
    Naturally the official name is the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio.
    Although fire destroyed much of the original work, about half has been preserved or restored for us to see how richly decorated it must have been. Traces of the mosque out of which it was made can be seen. In the photo the 2nd story screen would have separated female from male.
    Today the Martorana is home to the Italo-Albanian Catholic Church. Italo-Albanians, called the Arbëreshë, migrated to Sicily and Southern Italy in the late Middle Ages as the Byzantine Empire slowly disintegrated. The Arbëreshë church’s adherence to the Byzantine rite means that masses in the Martorana are held in ancient Greek, the same as when the church was founded 800 years ago.
    Les mer

  • Bathtime

    19. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This I could enjoy.
    A Roman slipper bath, alas no longer available as far as I can see.

    Finally I have found something really old in Sicily. A Copper Age double cell tomb cut into the rock. About 5000 years old.Les mer

  • In a pickle

    19. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Nearly 8000 desiccated corpses have been shelved by category under the Capuchin Monastery.
    Each one is dressed in their Sunday best and pinned to the walls, sitting on benches and shelves or lying in open coffins rigidly maintaining class distinctions. The priests of course have their own corridors / rooms, and so do for professionals, such as doctors. Women are segregated and children have their own space. The 1st class lounge is reserved for virgins all in white.
    It is believed that the particularly dry atmosphere allowed for the natural mummification of the bodies.
    Some say that the priests would lay the dead on shelves and allow them to drip until they were completely depleted of bodily fluids. After a year in the very dry atmosphere of the catacombs, the dried-out corpses would be rinsed with vinegar before being re-dressed and sent to their proper station for ever.
    More probably a recently found description of an embalming process, which was lost for decades, was employed. It consists of “formalin to kill bacteria, alcohol to dry the body, glycerin to keep her from overdrying, salicylic acid to kill fungi, and the most important ingredient, zinc salts to give the body rigidity.”
    The oldest corpse in the macabre collection is that of Silvestro da Gubbio, a friar who passed in 1599. The most recent is that of 2 year old Rosalia Lombardo, embalmed in 1920. She has been so well preserved that people call her “Sleeping Beauty.”
    Photos are officially forbidden but I couldn't resist taking a couple for you.
    Les mer

  • All that glitters

    19. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Paid my money to visit the the Palazzo Reale, home of the Norman Kings, but the Royal Appartments were closed so I could only see the Cappella Palatina which is another UNESCO Heritage edifice.
    The chapel, consecrated on Palm Sunday, 28 April 1140, is famous for its mosaics - probably laid by the same chaps that did the Martorana and the central apse of the Cathedral in Cefalù.
    They are believed to have been made for
    We don't know for certain when the mosaics were made, but the mosaics of the nave and aisles were most likely made during the rule of William I (1154-1166), the second King of Sicily, ( 4th son of Roger II and Elvira of Castile,) also known as Gugghiermu lu Malu. (William the Bad / Wicked)
    The sanctuary, dedicated to Saint Peter, is reminiscent of a domed basilica. It has three apses, as is usual in Byzantine architecture, with six pointed arches resting on recycled classical columns and with many Arabic inventions such as the muqarnas ceiling.
    The apex of the dome consists of the Christos Pantokrator, with rows of angels, prophets, evangelists and saints.
    Better and more photos can be seen online; worth the effort.
    Les mer

  • A bridge too far (from the river)

    19. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    + Admiral George of Antioch in the reign of Roger III, had this bridge across the river Oreto built when he arrived around 1132. Since then the river has been diverted. It was built entirely of dry stone and is large for its time. A nice bit of Norman engineering.
    + The harbour side of Porta Felice, one of the 5 main gateways into the old town; named after Felice Orsini, wife to Viceroy Marcantonio II Colonna, commander of the Papal fleet at the Battle of Lepanto (1571).
    The lower section has a rather neat design, while the upper one is more elaborate; probably because it was started in 1584 and finished in 1637, when many XVIIth century Italian monuments became more fancy.
    Here is what Goethe had to say about it:
    "Our first business was to examine the city, which is easy enough to survey, but difficult to know; easy, because a street a mile long, from the lower to the upper gate, from the sea to the mountain, intersects it, and is itself again crossed, nearly in its middle, by another. Whatever lies on these two great lines is easily found; but in the inner streets a stranger soon loses himself, and without a guide will never extricate himself from their labyrinths. (..) Through the singular gateway, which consists of two vast pillars, which are left unconnected above, in order that the tower-high car of S. Rosalia may be able to pass through, on her famous festival, we were driven into the city."

    + The gate called Porta Nuova because it was opened as recently as 1460. In 1535 Emperor Charles V passed through, followed by thousands of Arab prisoners and Christians he had freed from slavery after conquering Tunis. Fifty years later Viceroy Marcantonio Colonna decided to rebuild the gate in the form of a triumphal arch which celebrated the victory of the Emperor, hence the four telamons portraying Arab prisoners.
    Les mer

  • Palermo

    19. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Fortuitously I arrived as people were returning home for lunch, so I was able to park opposite a school in the middle of town.

    The architecture in this town can best be described as "blended".

    The lion is on the front door of the Teatro Massimo which resembles another Greek temple. What else would you do on the back of a lion than have a pipe?Les mer

  • Family rivalry

    19. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    The less culturally sensitive may say that this is what you get when building from the leftovers of various other church construction kits.
    UNESCO on the other hand regard it as one of the finest examples of Norman / Arab / Byzantine / salted with classical elements architecture.
    King Roger II had a bit of a reputation, having built the cathedral in Cefalu and the Cappella Palatina in Palermo. His grandson, King William II, wanted to outdo the old man. So he became inspired by a vision of the Virgin and ordered this cathedral in Monreale to be assembled.

    The interior was completed in 1184 and covered in cartoon mozaics of 42 Old Testament stories.

    Roger version in Palermo.
    Les mer

  • On the Beach

    18. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Before braving the streets of Palermo I spent the night in the equivalent of Brighton, Mondello. It became popular at the end of the 19thC for tourists from the city seeking a nice beach to promenade on. The pier was built as an added - the only added - attraction in town; being Italian of course it is mainly a restaurant.Les mer

  • Rock concert

    18. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    This huge 5thC BCE Temple was built by the Elysians in a remote valley near Segesta.
    When the wind blows through the 36 columns it produces weird notes so I was told.
    However, since the only way in was by paying for parking, taking a bus and then buying an entrance ticket I felt not like forking out 20 Euro for yet another monument.Les mer

  • Antico Erice

    17. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    750m above Trapani on the Sicilian West coast, the Elymians (whoever they were,) built a town and a temple dedicated to Venus complete with Temple prostitutes. The temple remained intact after numerous invasions (no prizes for guessing why,) until the Normans came and flattened it to erect the Castello di Venere.

    A pleasant and unspoilt mediaevil town which took a couple of hours to walk around. Cobbles, narrow streets, stone houses pressed together ... ....
    Les mer

  • Salt

    16. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Just up the coast from Marsala, opposite Isola San Pantaleo, the 12thC salt pans are still working near the Phoenician Mozia. In fact by squinting into the shallow waters of the bay, an old road from the era can be seen leading to the islands, where a settlement called Motya was uncovered in 2005.

    When the Dutch arrived I do not know, though their evidence is hard to miss. The mills were used to pump water into the pans.
    Les mer

  • Marsala

    15. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    I awoke to find the fishing fleet in from the sea. Compared to real boats in Sciacca, these did not seem so impressive but I gather they are used for much shallower waters.

    During the afternoon the place is empty as sensible people stay out of the sun and eat lunch. Unfortunately there was little sun but I did find an open restaurant for lunch - fish!
    Their famous sweet wine is only one of many from the region. Nice enough and hard to distinguish from any other Sicilian wine.
    Les mer

  • Streets of Selinunte

    14. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    These are the streets of the well laid out city. The house construction and layout is the same as Agrigento and would have been very comfortable to live in.
    One of the cross roads.
    Some treasures were found on site, but these have been whisked away to Palermo museum. From the relics, archaeologists have been able to determine the colour schemes and designs with which the temples were richly adorned.
    It doesn't look much, but this little circle is the world's first documented spiral staircase. Not even a sign on it! Understated, you could say.
    Les mer

  • Selinunte

    14. februar 2019, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    From being one of the most progressive and eminent cities in Magna Graecia, in 409 BCE Selinunte was transformed, almost overnight, into a large expanse of rubble. The reason for this was an attack from the old enemy, the Carthaginians, who, for many years, had seen this upstart town as a threat to their influence in Sicily. Taking advantage of some trouble between the Greeks of Selinunte and the Elymians of Segesta, the Carthaginians sent some 100,000 men to lay siege to the town, which was only able to hold out for nine days. The subsequent sacking involved the massacre of some 16,000 of the town’s inhabitants while most of the remaining citizens were taken into slavery.
    Since then most of the history has been lost and even creative archaeologists have refrained from giving the ruins names: they are just known by letter. All that is worth saying is that some of the buildings go back nearly 3 centuries.

    https://en.visitselinunte.com/archaeological-park/
    Les mer