• Roland Routier
Sep 2017 – Sep 2025

Roland Routier

An open-ended adventure by Roland Routier Read more
  • Admiral restraint

    June 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    What does Admiral Gonzales Alvarez Ossario hide under his frock coat?
    Clue: there are 3 small ones.

    (Sorry, thats all you get. Some things have to remain secret - I'm sure you will check if you visit Seville!)
    (And yes, there really is a secret.)
    (And no, the answer 'Nothing' is incorrect.)
    Read more

  • Casa Pilatus

    June 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Started in 1483 but mostly built by the Fabrique Enriquez after a trip to Palestine, where he seems to have got the idea of building a version of the Pontius Pilate prison. (Sorry, my Spanish & their translations are not up to proper descriptions here.)
    At any rate, there is a mixture of Mudejar, Renaissance and Baroque styles which attracts sightseers and works very well.
    Read more

  • Odd

    June 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Copy of "The Bearded Woman" by Jusepe Ribera (lo Spagnoletto).
    This is a portrait of Magdalena Ventura aged 52 with her husband Felici de Amici who not surprisingly doesn't look too Felice. At 37 she grew a long, thick beard. Obviously Mr Gillette was not around then, but she still had 3 children.
    The Duke of Medinaceli, who owns this house, inherited the painting from the Duke of Alcala, Fernando Afan de Ribera y Enriquez who had commissioned it when Viceroy of Naples.

    The tiles look remarkably modern.

    I include a sculpture of the man who was told to wash all the tiles in the house.
    Read more

  • Less than 5 Rings left

    June 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    The Olympic village is crumbling away and the trains don't run by any more. The wooden tiles on the "Pavilion of Living Energy" are dropping off and the cooling towers have no water.
    Where centrally placed sites fall apart, global IT companies like Accenture move in and polish the glass walls of renovated buildings, but I haven't photographed them.Read more

  • Work

    June 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    In case you were wondering what I did when not seeking out fascinating and photogenic sights of interest for you, Jane (from my last workaway) sent me these photos.
    ⦁ You see me loading a skip with rocks and wrestling two stray dogs that had wandered onto the land and were chasing the chickens and frightening the donkey.
    ⦁ Before and after shots of the cooker / rangetop made 'campo' style. (No, the design was not mine.)
    ⦁ Sitting on the outhouse after making brickwork to support and fitting the wooden seat.
    ⦁ Fixing the tiles which had been lifted and cracked by soil expansion / contraction. Not pretty, but I bet you can't tell which ones are untouched.
    ⦁ Of course there was more but I dont want to bore you.
    Read more

  • Fun

    June 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Lest you think there is no down time:
    ⦁ Its not always camping in carparks. This was the view from the back window one peaceful morning.
    ⦁ Another photo from Jane, down at the beach with the family. Typical English picnic: freezing cold wind and everyone huddled up.
    ⦁ At someone's house, Loui, Alex and I tell what we have been talking about.
    ⦁ Here is a view from the front window where I parked on some vacant land for the night.
    Read more

  • Don't look in the mirror

    June 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Couldn't visit, but these were the first largescale solar power towers in Spain. PS10 is reflected in 624 heliostats or mirrors and PS20 1,255 giving around 30MW of steam generated electricity, (enough for about 180,000 homes so they say.)
    They're pretty impressive - hot stuff. Why the mirrors appear to be focussed in front of the tower I couldn't discover.
    Read more

  • I saw 3 ships come sailing by .. .. ...

    June 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Actually, there was only one ship, the Santa Maria and 2 caravels, the Pinta and the Nina.
    No doubt you have guessed from this that I am at Los Palos de la Fronteras visiting the Monestario de Santa Maria de la Rabida from which Christopher Colombus sailed to the Americas.
    How he got here is interesting. Genovese sailor loses ship off the Portugese coast but manages to swim ashore. Ends up in Madeira with a bit of a squeeze for a local lass and soon they have a son. Now dad-in-law is a money lender and often accepts sailor's documents and personal affects as collateral - not unusual at the time. From these our Chris becomes convinced that there is land to the West, that it is India and quicker to get to. So he asks the Portugese king for some cash and warrants to sail over for a bit of a gander.
    "Don't be daft'" quoth the Royal Personage, "everyone knows the earth is flat and I don't have any spare lolly for an Atlantic cruise." End of dream.
    Or maybe not for meanwhilst, in a small, almost forgotten part of a foreign land, sailors had been heading West for many years, and had a good notion of prevailing winds, currents and so on across the Atlantic. They may well have even landed, but being simple fishermen on the whole they were ignorant of the import of their landing and fearful of the boogeymen.
    They came from Los Palos. The Phoenicians had built an altar on a nearby headland known since ancient times as Saturn's Rock. It was dedicated to their god, Melqart, the patron of Tyre, also called the Baal or lord of Tyre, (a deity often confounded with Hercules). In turn, the Romans venerated their goddess, Proserpina here and then Arabs built a mosque on the same spot: a site dominating the confluence of 2 rivers, the infamous Rio Tinto and the Rio Odiel, so a fisherman's paradise. Being Genovese, Chris knew this of course, but there was even more here to attract a mariner on the make.
    The Arabs had built religious barracks here to train mounted monk-warriors like those of the Christian Orders, (hence 'rábida' or 'rápita', watchtower in Arabic,) overlooking the harbour of Los Palos. In this environment, Muslim ascetics sought to become perfected spiritually to battle the 'crusaders'.
    In the twelfth century, the site passed to the Knights Templar under the protection of Our Lady of Miracles. Pope Eugene IV granted indulgences to all who rendered aid to travelers seeking refuge at this site: a prize for not being taken by pirates.
    In 1261 Pope Benedict XIII issued a papal bull authorising Friar Juan Rodríguez and his Franciscan companions to establish a community on the coast of Andalucia. The the Order of Friars Minor Conventual naturally claimed the local holy spot. Despite this written evidence, as is so often the case with believers, tradition holds that St. Francis of Assisi himself visited here, in the company of twelve disciples, to found a community. In any event, little remains of the early friary; most of the existing buildings date from the 14thC and 15thC.
    Our Chris knew of one more very salient support for his project.
    Like many Franciscan houses at the time there were only 12 monks in permanent residence keeping open house for those in distress or need. However, there was more to the top man, Perez, than you might think, (what they call a Deep Frier,) having served at Isabella's court as the Queen's Treasurer and chums with the Queen's confessor. He was a player.
    Now it so happened that CC was a lay Franciscan, or at least was seen dressed in the short frock favoured by Franciscans. I don't know he signed up before or after he got his Great Idea, so am not in a position to judge whether this was for real, as a disguise or just sucking up. Anyway, he hacked over with his son for a meeting with Perez, entering through the door in the photo.
    Read more

  • Working chambers

    June 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    ⦁ The friars met Chris in this comfortably sized room to debate and speculate on navigation and cartography. He and the Bish also entertained prospective investors and potential plaintiffs for the case, no doubt at at minimalist (because of the vow of poverty,) but exquisitely prepared banquets. They jointly worked out a plan to present to the Spanish Queen, including crucially much evidence from previous visitors. And so it came to pass that they received a Royal charter , some money and various promises for the distribution of the future wealth to be appropriated en route.
    In 1992, in celebration of the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus's voyage of discovery, there was a meeting of the Spanish council of ministers (cabinet), presided over by King Juan Carlos I, in this room.
    ⦁ The courtyard was for the private use of the Brothers,
    ⦁ the white cloister is in the guests courtyard.
    ⦁ The refectory is more than adequate for 12 + guest. The size of the beer tankard reminds us that low alcohol beer was drunk all day not to become intoxicated but to avoid pollution from the local water.
    ⦁ As for the bedroom! This cell is larger than my van and equally comfortable.
    Read more

  • Our Lady of Miracles

    June 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Archaeologists aren't sure when this church was built. It has a nice snug feeling to it though and we can be sure of one thing: this is where CC spent much of his time asking for success and the cash to achieve it. The crew would have all been in here a few hours before departure.
    ⦁ Presiding over the main altar is a sculpture of a Christ which replaces an older statue destroyed during the Spanish Civil War.
    ⦁ In the south wall there is a small chapel alcove dedicated to the patron of the friary, Our Lady of Miracles.
    ⦁ Gothic arches in proportion to Moorish door
    ⦁ The alabaster statue of St. Mary, is in the 14thC Andalucian art style. According to legend, whilst the Moors were still in charge, a sailor form Los Palos brought this image back and hid it in the sea near Huelva. When the coast was clear, they fished it up in their nets and put it in the church.
    Read more

  • Fresco

    June 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    ⦁ The entrance and
    ⦁ visitors cloister have been decorated by Daniel Vázquez Diaz (1882-1969) in the 1930's. Obviously, he painted Columbus and his expedition in what apparently is a 'pre-cubist' style which he had just picked up in Paris.
    ⦁ The Almohar style frieze is original. Tiles would have been too ostentatious for Franciscans, so they painted the walls in a way the peasants could if they wanted to.
    ⦁ Who knows what St.George is doing here.
    Read more

  • Nautical knowledge

    June 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    OK I won't relate the differences between a ship and a caravel and all sorts of fascinating facts about 15thC sailing vessels even though you would be riveted by the knowledge. I was most impressed by how small they were - the Nina was only 50% longer than my boat!
    ⦁ And I hadn't realised that they could change their rigging from what you see to square-rig for crossing the ocean. This lateen rig is very useful for inshore work, making the caravels more manoevrable than the ship. This may be the main reason that after landing in America on 12/10/1492, the Santa María foundered but the other two ships returned to Palos on 15/03/1493.
    ⦁ Captain Juan de la Costa: Santa Maria (30m / 60Tonnes)
    ⦁ Captain Martin Alonso Pinzon: Pinta Pinta (15m / 60T) and
    ⦁ Vincente Yaniz Pinzon: Nina (13m/45T).
    Here is another piece of trivia to thrill you. The first hydroplane to cross the Atlantic, the Plus Ultra flying boat, took off from Palos on 22/06/1922. The journey, done in six stages, ended at Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    Read more

  • A revolution of Castro

    June 23, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The earliest traces of human settlement are Neolithic period, about 7,000 years ago, when the area was an island surrounded by shallow waters. For thousands of years Castro Marim was a port that offered shelter to the ships that sailed up the Guadiana river to collect the metals mined to the north in Alcoutim and Mértola.
    Most of the town, the churches and castle's are poor or abandoned whose glory days were at the beginning of the last century. One gets the impression of a town carefully resurecting its past to attract the tourist Euro.

    ⦁ a Portugese windmill
    ⦁ the castle of Castro Marin originating in the 14thC
    ⦁ the gatehouse of the castle
    ⦁ the flagpole
    ⦁ looking across the castle interior towards Huelva
    ⦁ the 18thC church rebuilt after a fire was originally a hermitage and the 17thC Fort of São Sebastião was part of a set of ramparts that surrounded the town
    Read more

  • Travelling faster than light.

    June 24, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Move over Superman.
    Step aside Einstein.
    Not wanting to boast or anything but I have travelled faster than light: it really can be done.
    I started at 1810 hrs and arrived at my destination at 17:08hrs. And here is photographic proof.

    ============================================================
    I borrowed David Jarman's 800m steel cable connecting Sanlucar de Guadiana, in Andalucia, Spain, to Alcoutim, in Algarve, Portugal. The drop was about 90m and crossed the Guadiana River.
    For the record, you will be astonished to find that there is no evidence of neolithic ferrys; no Visigothic river crossing; no Almohar mosque ruins and no overlaying churches.

    Dr. Who? Just another timelord.
    Read more

  • In a Faro way town ...

    June 24, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Faro is like every other fishing village on the West coast of Europe and around the Med.
    Small terraced houses on cobbled 3m wide streets and loads of whitewash.
    Cathedral is pretty ordinary.
    ⦁ The Arco da Vila - the 19th-century gateway with Moorish portico.
    ⦁ Toffs house
    ⦁ Another typical gateway
    ⦁ Lying on the coast, overlooking the shallow lagoons of the protected Ria Formosa Natural Park
    What more can I say? Oh yes, it was full of restaurants with wide-screen TV's offering pizza + pint + England vs Belgium in the Soccer World Cup. A steady procession of red skinned, bare chested English blokes trickled in from the beach to fill them.
    Read more

  • Just ribbing you

    June 24, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Romans called the town Ossonoba, and the monks called this place Capela dos Ossos.
    Make no bones about it, all the members of this Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo ended up in chapel.
    Spot any teeth?

  • Loule

    June 25, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Loule was preparing for its fiesta which meant colourful laundry in the streets.
    It has a castle but is mainly known for its 1920's bent tin Almohar style market. Minaret shown.
    Its big on craftwork too.Read more

  • Q. When is a palace not

    June 25, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A. When its a house with secrets.
    A “Rococo” style house was built here in the early 19thC, but fell into disrepair when the owners family died.
    A rich man with pretensions, one José Francisco da Silva took it on at the beginning of the 20thC. Some say that he was given the title "Viscount of Estói " for restoring the place but rumour has it that he earned it by providing a safe and discrete hideaway for other rich and powerful men to enjoy. Parties were laid on for them to encounter their paramours and there were many small summer houses and gazebos in the gardens for private tete-a-tetes. Nobody can say for certain why he was made a Viscount, but he was and thus the house metamorphised into a palace.
    On his death it languished again until convertd into a Poussada by the Portugese Tourist Office.
    . The three former reception are still used for socializing as there are sofas and armchairs in all of these rooms and the bar opposite serves drinks, snacks and even afternoon tea here. Dinner and breakfast are served in the restaurant next to the original kitchen, which still has the original cooker and cooking
    ⦁ From the verandah, there are of the Serra do Caldeirão mountains and the plebs in the city of Faro.
    ⦁ Lots of suggestive columns in the garden supporting nothing
    ⦁ The facade - 3 rooms wide, 2 deep
    ⦁ The luxury of running water: a cherub sitting on a dolphin
    ⦁ The front, viewed from a summer house
    ⦁ Nymphs romping in the grotto. (another fake, a replica of Antonio Canova’s sculpture ‘The Three Graces’)
    Read more

  • Not for public gatherings

    June 25, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    There are only 3 reception rooms (Salão Verde, Salão Nobre and Salão Estói), and all the ornate stucco ceilings, carved wood-panelled walls, frescoes on the walls and ceilings depicting nymphs and cherubs, extravagant chandeliers, gilt-framed mirrors and gilded furniture you could possibly want.Read more

  • Staircase to heaven

    June 25, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Perhaps the most famous feature is the garden staircase with the famous 'azulejo' (blue tiles,) panels depicting pastoral scenes.
    One flight down to the fountain and summer houses and then splits into 2 to descend to another fountain. Many nymphs and cherubs watched over by some gargoyles.
    Another flight down, decorated with azulejo panels depicting more nymphs and cherubs, leads to ground level where there is the pièce de résistance, statues of Venus and Diana in the grotto.
    From here the path lined with trees and lavender plants leads to the carriage gate and 2 more gazebos safe from prying eyes.
    Read more

  • Roll on

    June 25, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Such a Disney spectacle is an obvious set for advertising shots.

  • Silves

    June 26, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Silves castle dates from the 11thC but most of it has been flattened. They make a brave show with a piece of Almohad window held up by wire to justify charging admission fees, but their competition is intense.
    Instead we have a very pleasant garden surrounded by the old walls with a statue of a man popping his cork, and the old water cistern housing an explanation of the work undertaken to save the Iberian Lynx.
    Read more

  • Not Nigeria

    June 26, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Couldn't miss Lagos though it too is full of ruddy tourists with peeling skins. Its main claim to fame is the 16thC Slave market, which on closer examination does not exist. There certainly was one here, initially buying West Africans from other West Africans to serve in European households and then degenerating into a transhipment centre for the West Indies and Brazil, but nobody knows where it was.Read more