Day 30 Mountain temples, a lucky belly and samurai

A wonderfully varied day, starting at Yamadera in Yamagata after a train ride from Sendai. Stone steps led us through the forest to little temple buildings perched on the mountainside, with lovely views across the valley. Low cloud and light rain softened the distant hills, and a few leaves were beginning to turn autumn colours.

Yamadera’s proper name is Risshakuji, a Buddhist temple founded in 860 by the monk Ennin. Its main hall shelters the “eternal flame” we had been asking about: a sacred lamp whose flame was brought from Mount Hiei. According to temple tradition, Yamadera later supplied a flame back to the original temple after it was destroyed. Quite a remarkable connection across the centuries.

One particularly memorable character was the large, smiling figure surrounded by children. He is Hotei, often called the Laughing Buddha, and one of Japan’s Seven Lucky Gods. The children reflect his traditional association with generosity and affection for youngsters. At Yamadera, visitors rub his wooden statue while making a wish—which explains the beautifully polished belly! We watched people rubbing him and the little children, and Cindy joined in too.

Our morning food adventure was tama konnyaku: three brown, rather springy balls on a skewer. They are made from konjac, not meat or eggs, and typically flavoured with soy sauce, sometimes with dried-squid stock. Around Yamadera they are nicknamed “power konnyaku,” a traditional snack before tackling the temple’s 1,015 steps. Cindy’s tasting photograph captures the moment rather well!

Back in Sendai, we caught the bus to Zuihōden, the mausoleum of Date Masamune, the first lord of the Sendai domain. Its ornate black, gold and brightly coloured decoration made a striking contrast with the wooded surroundings. Originally built in 1637, it was destroyed in the 1945 air raids and rebuilt in 1979. Knowing that history made the craftsmanship even more interesting.

We finished by walking back to the hotel, passing a baseball game in the late-afternoon sunshine. Ancient temples, living traditions and everyday city life—all in one very nice, interesting day.Read more