• We started the morning exploring Onomichi’s narrow streets, hillside temples and wonderful views over the Inland Sea before setting off on our second day of cycling.

    Today’s adventure involved three ferries, including one we missed because it was full and another where we wondered whether a ferry would ever appear! We also stumbled upon a lively local festival procession, with dozens of people carrying beautifully decorated shrines.

    One highlight was buying locally grown mikan (mandarins) and giving two to a couple of women. One was absolutely delighted and wanted to hear about our travels. When we mentioned walking part of the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage, she became even more excited — she’d visited all 88 temples herself, by car! Every time she said “Me!” she pointed to her nose rather than her chest. Such a charming Japanese gesture!

    We finished with 47.6 miles and 1,709 feet of climbing. Cindy’s knee was fine, although my backside had a few complaints!

    Tonight we’re staying in a lovely little Japanese house on Ōmishima, where we cooked our own salmon dinner and even did laundry using the bathroom’s built-in clothes dryer.

    Another wonderful day of unexpected discoveries in Japan!
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