Day 53 - A Typhoon Changes Our Plans

A Day of Cancellations and Curious Discoveries

Happy 1st birthday Liora!

Today we were supposed to travel from Kyoto to the Kii Peninsula to begin our Kumano Kodo hike. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans.

We made it as far as Shin-Osaka, where heavy rain had disrupted train service. Our morning train was cancelled, and we managed to reserve seats on an afternoon departure. After more waiting and watching the departure boards, that train was cancelled too. In fact, none of the afternoon trains made it through.

The weather radar showed an enormous band of rain stretching across Japan, with some particularly intense areas earlier in the day. Not exactly ideal conditions for hiking mountain trails!

Rather than spend the rest of the day at the station, we checked into a hotel and went exploring Osaka’s older Nakazakichō neighborhood. Its narrow streets, older buildings, little shops and cafés provided a pleasant contrast to the modern city.

And, as usual, Japan provided a few surprises.

We encountered an unusual appetizer featuring little fish with their eyes still attached. Apparently a perfectly reasonable accompaniment to beer, although somewhat more adventurous than peanuts or cheese balls!

Then there was the mysterious fixture in a grocery store restroom. Was it a fancy Japanese urinal? A baby bath? Some elaborate washing device? We had a good laugh trying to work it out.

We also came across an animal café featuring ducks and even a skunk, and spotted Osaka’s wonderfully bizarre Expo mascot, with its many eyes. Japan certainly has a talent for the unexpected!

So, although we didn’t get where we intended to go, the day wasn’t wasted. We enjoyed an old neighborhood, encountered a few cultural curiosities, and had plenty to laugh about.

We’re back at the hotel tonight, hoping the trains will be running tomorrow and that we can salvage most of our Kumano Kodo adventure.

Sometimes travel is about the places you plan to visit. Other times it’s about what happens when those plans fall apart.Read more