Day 62 - Moss, Milestones and a Holiday in Kyoto

Our last full day in Kyoto turned into another 8.5 miles of exploring, from quiet gardens and local neighborhoods to riverside crowds and children playing in the sunshine.

We began at Saihō-ji, the famous moss temple, and continued to nearby Jizō-in, the Bamboo Temple. Beautiful gardens, but they also made us appreciate our hiking even more. We have walked through forests with similarly lovely moss covering rocks, roots and trees—with the place almost entirely to ourselves.

Walking between the sights was part of the pleasure today. The residential streets offered a quieter view of Kyoto, with small gardens and unexpected discoveries along the way.

At Matsunoo-taisha, we encountered families dressed for Shichi-Go-San, the celebration of children aged three, five and seven. Little ones in colorful kimonos posed with parents and grandparents, tried shooting arrows, played games and enjoyed sweets. Formal blessings mixed with plenty of fun.

Cindy’s questions kept us looking beyond the buildings: why sake at a shrine, what was hanging from the torii, and what was the story behind horse offerings? We learned that Matsunoo-taisha has a special connection with sake brewers, who come to pray for successful brewing. There is always another layer to understand.

Farther along, at Hōrin-ji above Arashiyama, we found another family milestone: Jūsan-mairi, when children around twelve or thirteen visit to receive blessings for wisdom and good fortune as they grow up.

Down by Togetsukyō Bridge, the river was busy with rowing boats. One young man struggled so thoroughly with his oars that the boatman eventually had the couple get out. We imagined a first date going rather differently from the plan! Thankfully, she was laughing and he eventually smiled too. Hopefully there will be a second date.

Today was Culture Day, a national holiday. After two months here, we were struck by seeing so many children simply out playing. Later, at Umekoji Park, families picnicked, children played ball and little paddle boats kept their occupants busy. We explored another garden there before finishing the walk home.

A lovely final Kyoto day: moss and sunshine, family traditions, ordinary neighborhood life, and enough questions to keep us curious.Read more