2026 Japan exploration

Hokkaido: What We Learned

Hokkaido is approximately the size of South Carolina and has roughly the same population, but most people are concentrated in a few cities. Much of the island feels remarkably open, rural and wild.

These are the main things we learned while traveling around Hokkaido in September.

Campervan travel

A campervan works extremely well. The roads are good, traffic is generally light and navigation is easy. Campgrounds are plentiful and inexpensive, and there are many places where travelers sleep in their vehicles without charge.

Japan’s roadside stations, called michi-no-eki, have clean toilets and may also include restaurants, local produce, tourist information, exhibits or an onsen. Some tolerate overnight resting, but they are not campgrounds. Cooking outside, setting up chairs or spreading out equipment may not be allowed.

The campervan gave us the freedom to alter our route according to the weather, hiking conditions and whatever caught our interest.

Driving and fuel

Hokkaido is larger than it appears on a map. Journeys can take longer than expected because of winding roads, conservative speed limits and slow-moving traffic.

Fuel is readily available in populated areas but less predictable in remote regions, particularly late in the day. Keeping the tank at least half full is a sensible rule.

A normal rental car or campervan is adequate for most travelers. Drivers planning many mountain roads may appreciate a vehicle with enough power for hills and safe passing, but a powerful car is not essential.

Bears and other wildlife

Hokkaido has brown bears, or higuma. They are the same species as North American grizzly bears, although a different subspecies.

We did not see one, but reminders were everywhere: warning signs, bear bells and occasional access restrictions. Most hikers carried bells. Pay attention to recent sightings, make noise, store food securely and never approach a bear.

Other wildlife included red-crowned cranes, Ezo deer, foxes and many seabirds. Our whale-watching trip was canceled because of high winds. Animals should never be approached or fed; foxes can carry a dangerous parasite.

Weather

September was a good time to visit. The summer crowds had diminished, the accessible trails we used were free of snow, and the weather was generally pleasant, although we were a little early for the best autumn colors. Snowfields can linger at high elevations, so conditions should still be checked locally.

Mountain weather changed quickly, with strong winds, mist and much colder temperatures at elevation.

Western and northern Hokkaido receive enormous amounts of winter snow. Southeastern Hokkaido receives far less but is still extremely cold. The famous winter drift ice occurs along the northeastern Okhotsk coast, particularly around Abashiri and Shiretoko.

National parks and hiking

Hokkaido’s national parks include volcanic mountains, crater lakes, wetlands, forests and rugged coastlines. Highlights for us included Daisetsuzan, Akan-Mashu, Shiretoko, Shikotsu-Tōya and the new Hidakasanmyaku-Erimo-Tokachi National Park.

Selecting a hike required more research than simply looking at its distance. Many major mountain routes are long, consistently steep and rocky, with few switchbacks. Some involve river crossings, difficult trailhead access or long sections without easy escape options.

A route rated “Hard” should be taken seriously, even by reasonably fit hikers. Check elevation gain, terrain, access and recent reports—not merely mileage and photographs.

Because many mountains are active volcanoes, also check current volcanic alert levels. An otherwise usable trail may become partly or completely inaccessible when volcanic activity increases. Visitor centers and trailhead notices often provide the best local information. Walking poles, layers and rain protection were valuable.

Food and grocery stores

The fresh fruit and vegetables were remarkably good. Hokkaido is a major agricultural region, with excellent corn, potatoes, squash, tomatoes, onions, melons and other seasonal produce. Roadside stations and farm shops were particularly good places to buy local products.

Hokkaido is also known for milk, yogurt, cheese, butter and excellent ice cream. Supermarkets had large selections of prepared meals, often discounted later in the day. Seicomart convenience stores seemed to be everywhere and were especially useful in smaller communities.

Cash

Cash was needed more frequently than we expected. Larger hotels, supermarkets and restaurants generally accepted credit cards, but smaller campgrounds, onsens, cafés and rural businesses were often cash-only.

We tried to carry enough yen for several days. Convenience-store ATMs were usually the easiest places to obtain more.

Onsens

Onsens were both enjoyable and practical after hiking or spending several days in the campervan. Public baths were widely available and usually inexpensive.

Baths are generally separated by gender, and everyone washes thoroughly before entering the water. Swimsuits are normally prohibited, although private or couples’ baths are sometimes available. Tattoo rules vary.

Trash

Trash disposal was surprisingly difficult. Public trash cans are uncommon, despite Japan being exceptionally clean.

Some campgrounds accept carefully sorted trash, occasionally for a fee. Municipal trash cages may be visible in towns, but they are generally intended for local residents and may have rules that visitors cannot understand. Ask a campground, accommodation or rental company before using one.

Convenience-store bins are primarily intended for purchases made there, not several days of campervan rubbish. It is best to determine where trash can be disposed of before too much accumulates.

The Ainu

Learning about the Ainu added greatly to our experience. The Ainu are the Indigenous people of northern Japan, particularly Hokkaido, with cultural traditions closely connected to animals, plants and the spiritual world.

We visited cultural centers, watched traditional dances, spoke with an Ainu woodcarver and tried meals containing salmon, venison and bear. These encounters made Ainu culture feel contemporary rather than something existing only in museums.

It is also important to understand the history of lost land, forced assimilation and discrimination. Today there are active efforts to preserve and revive Ainu language, crafts, food and traditions.

Russia

Russia feels geographically close in eastern Hokkaido. Russian-administered islands are visible from parts of the coast, helping explain the region’s strategic importance.

Japan claims several of these islands as its Northern Territories, while Russia administers them as part of the Kuril Islands. The dispute has continued since the end of World War II and provides useful context for local museums, monuments and coastal viewpoints.

Using ChatGPT

ChatGPT became a valuable travel companion. We used photographs to translate signs and menus, identify food and unfamiliar objects, understand cultural sites, prepare Japanese messages and revise plans when weather or timing changed.

It was especially helpful in explaining what we were seeing while we were still there. Current train schedules, opening hours, volcanic alerts, trail closures and weather warnings still needed to be confirmed locally.

Overall

Hokkaido combines the convenience and orderliness of Japan with an unexpected sense of space and wilderness. A campervan allowed us to experience mountains, volcanoes, remote lakes, wildlife, Ainu culture, farms and dramatic coastlines at our own pace.

For travelers who enjoy road trips, hiking and flexible plans, Hokkaido is an excellent part of Japan to explore independently.

2 more comments from a friend:
Driving around, check the map for "observatory" as they are often excellent places with great views, and free. Lastly, the time here is nonsensical and needs adjusting to in that the day actually starts at 5, ends at 6 yet things do not open til 9 up to 11. So you need to plan hiking starts before things are open, except some convenient stores.Read more