2017 Europe & Asia Adventure

September - November 2017
A 62-day adventure by Courtney Read more
  • 63footprints
  • 5countries
  • 62days
  • 340photos
  • 0videos
  • 21.2kmiles
  • 17.7kmiles
  • Day 19

    Day 19 - Florence!

    September 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    What a great long day! We woke up at 7:00 (...the first time before 9:00 or 10:00 in days) after staying up a little too late drinking wine and playing Chess. Then we went straight to the Academia Galleria - the museum that holds Michelangelo's David. Walking in and seeing David was absolutely the most moved by (non-musical) art that I've ever been. The 17 foot tall statue was literally breathtaking. We were lucky to have tickets for the earliest slot of the day when the museum was not busy at all. By the time we left an hour or so later after checking out several other statues and works of art, including a cool mini-museum of musical instruments, it was a madhouse.

    Next, we walked over to the Duomo plaza to check out the cathedral, dome, and bell tower. Again, we seemed to beat the crowd and got some cool pictures all around the outside of the buildings. Instead of climbing to the top of the busy Giotto's Tower, we decided to go to the much less touristy (but equal, if not better, panoramic view, from what I read) Tower of Arnolfo at the Palazza Vecchio). The long climb to the top was definitely worth it. We got a great view of all of Florence with no more than 2-4 other people up there at any given time. The coolest part might have been when we were about to head down and the giant bell on the tower struck 11:00 and rang for all of the city to hear.

    After a quick 2nd breakfast or 1st lunch, however you want to look at it, of meat, cheese, and fruit paninis, we headed back to our quiet Airbnb for a nap. We woke up in time to get to the famous Uffizi gallery for our 2:45 ticket. It was pretty amazing seeing artwork from so many famous artists, including 3 of the Ninja Turtles(!!) (Leonardo, Raphael, and Michelangelo - no Donatello pieces), Botticelli, Caravaggio, and so many more. Then we split a pizza for another quick lunch and went back once again for another break before dinner. We had an awesome dinner - a meat and cheese platter to start, then I had the truffle pasta I was craving from last night and Tim had a yummy red pepper basil spaghetti. Now we are back and debating another night of Chess or an early night for another long day tomorrow!

    Tomorrow - day trip to Siena (I think - we keep going back and forth between Siena and Lucca!!)
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  • Day 20

    Day 20 - Day Trip to Siena

    September 29, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We are exhausted! But today was well worth it - Siena was awesome! A beautiful Medieval city in the Tuscan hills. We spent the entire day wandering through alleys and up and down hills. We had an awesome lunch in a several hundred year-old building built into a cave. We climbed 400+ steps to the top of the tower for amazing views of the city and the Tuscan countryside and rolling hills. (I got scared and almost bailed on the tower climb twice, turning around and going back down, until another tourist convinced me to do it - so glad I did!). Then we rode the bus back and watched the end of the sunset on the beautiful journey back to Florence. After a quick pasta dinner, we are ready for bed!Read more

  • Day 21

    Day 21-Chianti Wine Tour-Best Night Ever

    September 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Wow...what a night! We started the day with a stroll through the neighborhood and our last Tuscan lunch at a restaurant that a local Italian called the "best restaurant in Florence" (caprese salad, spicy tomato spaghetti, and fried chicken with zucchini flowers...YUM!). Then we made our way to the other side of the river to meet our small group for the Tuscany twilight wine tour. The tour started with a wine tasting in the Florence shop with our guide Paulo, learning all about the different Italian wine designations, the different wine regions of Tuscany, and the proper ways to look at, smell, and taste wine. Then, we set off on a 45 minute ride through the Tuscan countryside to a beautiful winery. We met with the sommelier, Anthony, who was incredibly passionate about wine and everything about it - the soil, the hillside, the valleys, the fungi, the fruit trees, the grapes, the barrels, the acidity, the oxygen, and everything else that goes into a single glass of wine. We did a wine tasting in the basement of the winery, tasting several different levels of aged wine. Then we moved upstairs to a 3+ hour four course meal with bottle after bottle of wine. The first course was cheese with honey, onion quiche, salami, prosciutto, bruschetta, and great with white wine and rose wine. The second course was the best bolognese pasta we've had yet with several different red wine pairings. The third course was a shredded beef with tomato sauce and green beens, with more red wine. And the fourth course was a delicious brownie with powdered sugar. Throughout the entire meal, both Paulo and Anthony and Anthony's wife shared stories and facts about everything from the wine to the food to the history behind the different Tuscan dishes. We tasted wine that had been aged since the 1990s that had the darkest, brown color I have ever seen in wine. I learned more about the flavors of wine and process of wine making than I thought possible in a 6 hour tour (that lasted almost 8 hours). We also got to have a great time with three other couples throughout the journey - a couple from Chicago on their 40th anniversary trip, a couple from San Diego on their honeymoon, and a couple from Boston who had also just recently been married. That whole tour was amazing...probably the highlight of the trip so far. Goodnight! Tomorrow we go south.Read more

  • Day 22

    Day 22 - Naples Arrival - Pompeii

    October 1, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We woke up early and headed south. Our first stop in Southern Italy is a quick two-night stay in Naples, the birthplace of pizza! We checked into our Airbnb and went straight to Pompeii. The first Sunday of every month, all monuments are free and we were able to get into Pompeii for free! We spent a few hours wandering through the ruins. It was really cool to see, with Mt Vesuvius towering behind. Now we are back in with delivery pizza for an early night.Read more

  • Day 23

    Day 23 - Kayaking Naples

    October 2, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Well...the slightly sore throat that I've had for a couple of days turned into a full blown cold overnight. But I decided to push through and make it to our 11:00 kayaking tour that we had scheduled. And I'm so glad I did! We were the only people on the tour. We basically paid less than it costs to rent a kayak for an hour in a tourist beach town for a 3 hour kayak tour around the cliffs and caves of Naples with a private guide. We were the only people in the water and had an amazing view of the entire Bay of Naples. It was awesome and beautiful - definitely one of the highlights of the trip so far. But by the time it was over, I had no energy left for the underground tunnel tour we wanted to do so we went back to the Airbnb for a much needed rest day. We napped, ate pizza, and watched Netflix all day and night. It's been great. Hopefully I feel better tomorrow as we set off to Capri!!Read more

  • Day 24

    Day 24 - Capri!

    October 3, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Wow...Capri is beautiful! We left Naples this morning for the short ferry ride to Capri. Then we hailed a cab from the ferry port and rode in the back of the open convertible up through the mountains and along the windy rode to our Airbnb in the highlands of Anacapri. We decided to stay up here in the quieter Monte Solaro area instead of down in the crazy packed Capri, filled with day trippers. Our Airbnb, which is actually a family owned bed and breakfast, is probably the highest point that we could be staying, with gorgeous views of the cliffs, the Mediterranean Sea, and the island of Ischia. We ordered delivery salad and pasta and set up on the pool deck for a late lunch. Then we walked down the steep hill (about a 5 minute walk down...but about 20 minutes back up) to the Anacapri town. We walked around for a little bit and then returned to the pool deck for the beautiful sunset. We decided not to go back down for dinner, since I am still not feeling great. We are going to have another relaxing night and hopefully I will be feeling better tomorrow to explore the island.Read more

  • Day 25

    Day 25 - Capri - Best Day Ever

    October 4, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today was absolutely the best day ever. And Capri is absolutely the best place ever. It is basically a giant island made up of giant cliffs and giant rock formations that stick hundreds of feet out of the Mediterranean Sea, with views of the Bay of Naples, the Sorrento Coast, the Amalfi Coast, Mount Vesuvius, and, at some points, just water as far as the eye can see. About three quarters of the island is beautiful empty cliffs while the other quarter manages to squeeze a couple of small towns - Capri, down on the water, and Anacapri - up in the cliffs.

    We started our day by walking the short but steep walk from our beautiful bed and breakfast down to Anacapri town (with a friendly kitten) to catch the chair lift to the top of Mount Solaro. I am terrified of heights and was terrified to get on this single-person chair lift to the highest point on the island. I didn't do well. I gripped the railing and either stared at the cliff on my left or closed my eyes the entire way...not once looking at the beautiful view of the water and town and cliffs on my right. Once we made it to the top, we got off and walked around and I got to actually take in the beautiful scenery. It was amazing. I am so glad we took this trip in September/October because there were not that many people on the mountain. I imagine in the summer there is barely room to stand, let alone grab a seat overlooking the cliffs. We had a cold beer and relaxed and I built up the strength to take the lift down instead of hiking all the way down. The ride down was beautiful.

    Once we got back down, we had a quick pizza, and took the crazy bus down to the Capri marina for a private boar tour around the island. I'm not sure what to say about this tour except that it was the absolute highlight of the trip. I can't think of much else I've ever done to top it. We spent three hours in a private boat, riding around the entire island of Capri, sipping wine and beer, swimming, and taking in the views. We went into several caves, swam in caves and grottos, and saw the island in the best way imaginable. The white grotto was amazing, with it's natural Madonna statue. The green grotto was beautiful, and Tim was able to scale the rocks inside and dive in. But nothing could ever compare to the blue grotto.

    I had read so much about the blue grotto this past year. I knew it would be amazing. But everything I read said that you paid a small boat a lot of money to take you inside the grotto with a dozen other boats, turn you around, and you're out in 2 minutes. I had also read that, before and after hours (9-5), the boats and the cops leave and sometimes the locals just swim in. I had wanted to do this and had told everyone I would do this for the past year. Well that's how our boat trip ended. He dropped us off near the entrance and told us to have fun. We swam over to the tiny opening (I have no idea how any boat can fit in), we pulled ourselves in on the rope, and we saw the most beautiful thing imaginable. The entire cave is lit up with a glowing bright blue water that I can't even describe. We spent a long time in the cave, swimming and climbing and diving off rocks. It was unreal.

    Then we rode back to the marina, dried off, changed, had a good pasta dinner, and now we're ready for bed. What a day!
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  • Day 26

    Day 26 - Positano Arrival!

    October 5, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Wow! Positano is stunning.

    After checking out of our bed and breakfast in Anacapri, we caught the (wrong) bus down to the Capri marina (followed by a taxi to the right place) to catch our quick 25 minute ferry to Positano on the Amalfi Coast. After we arrived at the Positano port, I saw our arrival message from our host, telling us to take a taxi or bus to the B&B. I looked the address up on Apple Maps and it said 0.3 miles, 7 minute walk...

    Tim gets a quick shot of espresso (bad idea!!) and we begin the walk (with about 30 pounds on our backs). Well...this 0.3 mile walk is essentially a hike up 400+ steep steps into a completely vertical cliff in the blazing sun. With no water. And without the phone navigation working, so I was pretty sure we were also lost. BUT...then we saw the B&B sign at our entrance...we made it!!

    Our awesome host gave us some water and let us settle in. This is the best place we have stayed by far. Our view of the cliffs and the buildings and the water is amazing. Of the 4 rooms in the B&B, ours is the only one with a private terrace. We also have a sitting area on the main terrace. The views are incredible.

    We caught our breath, changed into our bathing suits, and walked down the 400 (now easy) steps to the Fornillo beach. We had an awesome lunch on the beach, then got some chairs and an umbrella. I started a new book, Tim went for a quick swim, and we laid out in the sun for a couple of hours. We returned to our room to relax for awhile and to rinse off. Then we had some wine on our beautiful terrace and got ready for dinner. Our dinner was at a beautiful restaurant on the side of a cliff (as everything is here) - a bottle of Amalfi white wine, a pear and walnut salad to split, sea bass for Tim, and clam pumpkin ravioli for me, followed by tiramisu and decaf espresso. Amazing.

    Now, back to my book!! Goodnight!!
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  • Day 27

    Day 27 - Positano Beach Day

    October 6, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today was a much needed relaxing beach day. After breakfast on the terrace, we climbed down to the beach. We got some chairs and laid out for about 6 hours. Tim went for a long swim, which included a small cave swim and jumping off of some rocks. I just read all day! We had an awesome lunch on the beach - mussels and clams for me and sea bass for Tim! After the beach, we hiked back up to our room for a few hours of more relaxing, this time in bed with the beautiful views of the cliffside outside our terrace. We finished the day with a wonderful dinner - prosciutto and melon to start, spaghetti with clams for Tim, spaghetti with shrimp for me, and tiramisu for dessert! Yum!Read more

  • Day 28

    Day 28 - Path of the Gods (for Tim)

    October 7, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Today was a fairly uneventful and relaxing day for me. I woke up, had breakfast, walked the long windy road through Positano, checked out the city center and shops, then laid out on a chair at the main beach and read my book for awhile. Then I got a sandwich at a cafe overlooking the sea and headed back to the B&B for a nap.

    Tim, on the other hand, had a very long and eventful day. He woke up, had breakfast, and set off for the famous Path of the Gods hike through the Amalfi Coast. It took a few hours, lots of walking, and two crazy bus rides to get to the start in Bomerano. He met a couple of friends and they set off for the 8 km or so walk. He said it was definitely the coolest hike he has ever done and that the views were amazing. The hike ends at Nocelle, a small town at the top of Positano, and then he walked the long road back home.

    (The walk is apparently not for anyone with severe fear of heights or vertigo...that's why I didn't go. I went back and forth for months whether I was going to do it. But I'm glad I didn't. Tim said there were definitely parts where I would have panicked.)

    Even though Tim was exhausted, we went out for our last Positano dinner. We split a cheese and meat plate with jelly, lobster pasta, and grilled sea bass. Yum!
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