Perfect Ending

So our second night camping at South Coast backpackers was just as shitty as our first. Again, the grounds are beautiful. And if you like to party, then it's the place for you. But if you're like Jack and I, and in bed by 9pm, reconsider.

I got the permission to set up the tent on one of the day beds that was further set from the pool, along the back wall. I blamed the possibility of rain as my reason to set up there, but really I just wanted the mattress underneath me, the ground can be kind of hard... Incredibly warm again, the mosquito net of the tent blocks any possibility of a breeze, the music played until 3am... People were still sitting at the bar when they shut it off. Jack slept on the poolside cabana again, this one offering more of a breeze, having moved over around 1am. At this point, I made the executive decision to splurge for our last night on the coast. After tonight, we've got a night bus to sleep in and a cheap hotel in Nairobi for 2 nights, so this is my last chance to indulge in luxury. With some research, and lots of negotiation skills, we got a 7,000 cottage for 4,500. People, we've got air-con! The bedroom is wonderfully cool, the washroom all to ourselves, a front porch to enjoy a night cap glass of wine (bought at the groceries), a full kitchen, and yes, a pool overlooking the ocean. It's low season now, so prices tend to drop. It's a somewhat large resort, and there's about 10 people here.

We spent the day lounging at the pool, playing around with a ball I bought yesterday. Went into town (across the street) to grab lunch and some groceries for our evening. We got to watch National Geographics all night sipping wine and coke. Pierre would be proud! And turns out, wombats can be fascinating.

I got mugged by monkeys this morning. We had bought our breakfast at the groceries, including a banana, a mini bread loaf and a bread bun for me to make a sandwich. I left the front porch for 30 seconds only to hear Jack yelling my name. I returned to find her starring at a fence, and beyond it a couple monkeys enjoy some bread. When we both gave up on attempting to get it back, I returned to my plate and found I was missing my banana. Change of plans, we had our lunch snack early.

We had to check out for 10am from the cottage, but still got to enjoy the grounds for the day. We walked close to 2 hours on the beach, heading to the Kongo Mosque, the oldest Mosque still in use, or something along those lines. The best part of the mosque were the baobab trees in front, huge gorgeous trees. Quick swim in the clear, warm ocean to cool down and headed back to the pool, where we were welcomed by the pool boy with a freshly opened coconut. We drank the water and Jack ate the coconut itself. Not bad service for people who just paid close to half price for a cottage for the one night.

Sadly, and dragging our feet, we made our way out to the matatu junction to make our way back to Mombasa. I'm not a fan of Mombasa, so I'm not looking forward to being there. And I know we'll be taking a bus that isn't leaving until after dark, so that scares me a little. I've already made the decision to just sit in the bus office once it's dark and wait there, the safest plan I could come up with.

We sat at a local restaurant across the street from the bus office to make our walk over short. I had a small amount of money left, but didn't want to go to the atm until I was off the overnight bus. Turns out, I was a hundred short for diner! We had a meal that would usually cost 150, maybe 200, and the bill showed 350! I was so confused. I explained the situation to the waiter, and reluctantly he said it was ok. Nice guy! I remembered that we had a fruit knife, that I won't be needing anymore, and can't fly home with, so I offered it to him as a peace offering for the kitchen. He took it. I don't know if he appreciated. He chuckled a bit. And then another customer turned around and said he'd cover it, said to take back my knife. So many nice people! Who would have thought, shitty Mombasa had so many nice people in it.

So here I am, sitting in an air conditioned bus, front seat so plenty of leg space, awaiting our departure back to Nairobi. Seems odd to think it's the last time I'll have to carry my backpack to a new town... We were warned that easter weekend would make all hotels very busy, so we reserved a place for our 2 nights in Nairobi. Again, such an odd feeling that I'm done looking for accommodation. I'm done arriving in an unknown town. I'm done exploring new towns. I'm returning to where I've been, only to return home. Odd feeling.Read more