Oct 2022 – Mar 2023

Aotearoa New Zealand 22-3

Hiking & hitching around NZ Read more

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Trip start
October 2, 2022
Traveler Aotearoa New Zealand 22-3
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- Day 1
- Sunday, October 2, 2022 at 3:00 PM
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 20 m
- England Heathrow 51.472965, -0.45430751°28’23” N 0°27’16” W
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And We're Off...
October 2, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Rucksacks are checked, teary goodbyes have been said and it's finally time to start the journey to Aotearoa (via Munich and Singapore). 36 hours of flight time lie ahead of us, plenty of room for sleep, film watching and the 800 sudokus we just picked up from Smith's. Watch out NZ, we're on our way ✈️Read more
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10/11/22Reply
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- Day 3
- Tuesday, October 4, 2022 at 1:21 PM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 13 m
- New Zealand Auckland International Airport -37.009898, 174.79043537°0’36” S 174°47’26” E
Landed in Auckland
October 4, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
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- Day 5
- Thursday, October 6, 2022 at 7:20 PM
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 6 m
- New Zealand Taylor Island -35.281699, 174.09255535°16’54” S 174°5’33” E
Paihia
October 6, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Last stop before the hiking begins. Stopping off at Peppertree Lodge.
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- Day 6
- Friday, October 7, 2022
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 146 m
- New Zealand Cape Reinga -34.4263, 172.67755334°25’35” S 172°40’39” E
Paihia - Cape Reinga - Twilight Beach
October 7, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Day One on the trail. Met Jakob from Germany waiting for the intercity bus from Paihia, and later the Kerikeri - Kaitaia bus was filled with budding thruhikers including Lina and Ben from Aus and Olli and Heiko also from Germany. Greg of Tuatua Rentals gave four of us (Jakob, Olli, Heiko and me) a ride to the Cape from Awanui, and gifted us great advice & an Ugly Fruit each for the road.

We set off from the Cape around 16.00, cutting it a little fine for the 12km to first camp before the dark, but despite a close call with a quickly filling ocean river we made it to the Twilight Beach (appropriately) just as the sun was setting.

First ever tent set up was an experience (not ideal, couldn't quite puzzle it out in the dark) but it stayed up enough for the night! A problem for site twoRead more
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- Day 7
- Saturday, October 8, 2022
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 6 m
- New Zealand Te Wakatehaua Island -34.685, 172.89833334°41’6” S 172°53’54” E
Twilight Beach - Manganui Bluff
October 8, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
First experiences of 90 Mile Beach, walking with Jakob. Long, gruelling kms on the flat but lots of friendly faces waving. Met a couple cycling the length of the country, ETA in Bluff 2.5 months from now. Bikes looked like a good idea after 20km! Campsite basic but beautiful and figured out the tent thanks to Nigel (UK 'ex-pom' based in NZ). Here also met Matt from Matamata (Hobbiton!)Read more
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- Day 8
- Sunday, October 9, 2022
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 20 m
- New Zealand Mangonui County -34.9, 173.09333334°54’0” S 173°5’36” E
Manganui Bluff - Hukatere Lodge
October 9, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Hardest day of the trip so far. 30km on the flat, both Jakob and I struggling, but we were met with ginger beer, hot showers and a couple of really sweet dogs at Hukatere, making it all feel way more manageable! Great evening in the communal kitchen getting to know Matt (Kiwi and fellow tramper), Kevin (New Zealander who lives on site) and Ashleigh and Michael (Kiwi campers with their Labrador pup Dali) who've offered me a place to crash in Auckland when I get there!Read more
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- Day 9
- Monday, October 10, 2022
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 18 m
- New Zealand Lake Ngatu -35.037154, 173.17232235°2’14” S 173°10’20” E
Hukatere Lodge - Ngapae Holiday Park
October 10, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
17km short day today - and wow was it needed! Still gruelling on the beach but was greeted at Ngapae with the kindest people, cold cans of coke and even a fresh salad. Got to know James (UK born Kiwi), Pete (Australian-Canadian), Jeroen (Netherlands) and Deryl and Bert (NZ).Read more
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- Day 10
- Tuesday, October 11, 2022
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 30 m
- New Zealand Paripari Stream -35.178426, 173.13460535°10’42” S 173°8’5” E
Ngapae - Ahipara Endless Summer Lodge
October 11, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
So good to see a small town! 14km (final 5 with Aart from the Netherlands) on the beach followed by 3 more through the length of Ahipara. Finally done with 90 Mile (no more sand for the next few kms), 100km milestone reached, plus our first zero day on the 12th at the beautiful Endless Summer Lodge. A chance to wash clothes, pet a dog and grab a beer. Great chats to Aart, Jakub and Fabian (Netherlands) in the evening. The trail really is a 'Little Europe'Read more
TravelerCongratulations enjoy your first rest day! X
10/12/22Reply
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- Day 12
- Thursday, October 13, 2022
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 61 m
- New Zealand Taraire Stream -35.261108, 173.39269235°15’40” S 173°23’34” E
Kaitaia - Broadwood
October 13, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Lift from the lovely Chloé and Jean (from France but travelling the world!) to Kaitaia to skip out the 18km road section, and then onto my first day walking on my own. 5km road walk followed by 10km with David (Aus), lunch stop at my Plan A campsite and then made my own way to the next stop (saving a day) at Broadwood. Met up with Olli and Heiko here and managed to grab a well earned can of drink from the Dairy before closing. Great to finally see some greenery after 5 days on the beach!Read more
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- Day 13
- Friday, October 14, 2022
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 290 m
- New Zealand Waikoropupu Stream -35.236667, 173.65833335°14’12” S 173°39’30” E
Broadwood - Puketi Forest
October 14, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
After a chat and hot chocolate with the guys from the Broadwood dairy, hitched with the lovely Alan from Kaitaia for 8km of the first road, walked 3km on the hard shoulder and was then lucky enough to be picked up by Chloé and Jean again for the last 7km to Mangamuka village ready to start the walk into Puketi. Some pretty heavy rain today - but was made up for by meeting some great people at camp including Michelle and Bill (NZ) and Michelle and Dale (Aus).

Ground was super saturated at the site, so me and Malou (Germany) - a fellow literature student and bookseller who is doing upwards of 40km a day and planning to complete Te Araroa by December - decided to cowboy camp! Needless to say I likely won't see her again but great to make contact and we will try to meet again when we're both in Europe.Read more
TravelerGlad to see the waterproof doing it’s groundsheet job! 😁
10/18/22Reply
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- Day 14
- Saturday, October 15, 2022
- ☀️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 334 m
- New Zealand Manginangina -35.211756, 173.79264435°12’42” S 173°47’34” E
Puketi Forest Track
October 15, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
A muddy one! Seriously tough going through the forest today, as it was borderline too wet to make it the whole way through, but we took the risk anyway. First 5kms were beautiful, walking through the stream, but were followed by a pretty hair-raising (and kit testing!) swim across the river and 1000m elevation gain (in 6km) through thick jungle and on narrow, muddy pathways. Listened to a lot of comedy podcasts to keep the sanity, but the views were spectacular, particularly the one of the 4WD track at km 13, which meant an easy final 9kms. Cold showers at Puketi Forest Hut were extremely welcome, and went to sleep in the tent to the sound of wild Kiwi birdsRead more
TravelerThe river crossing sounds like a huge challenge- glad you got across safely- hope it didn’t take too long for everything to dry out. ☔️
10/18/22Reply
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- Day 15
- Sunday, October 16, 2022
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 55 m
- New Zealand Kerikeri -35.228823, 173.94225135°13’44” S 173°56’32” E
Puketi - Kerikeri
October 16, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
30kms of beautiful track today through countryside that was one minute jungle, the next minute typical Welsh pastureland. Stayed the night at Kerikeri holiday park and met some 6th October starters (Charlie (Ireland), Roek (Aus) and Brianna (I think!) (NZ)) who were taking some time to recover from injury. First hot shower in 4 days here and was gifted a kiwi fruit that was the first green food I'd eaten (barring peanut m&ms) for the same period.Read more
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- Day 16
- Monday, October 17, 2022
- 🌧 17 °C
- Altitude: 7 m
- New Zealand Haumai Point -35.285991, 174.09353235°17’10” S 174°5’37” E
Kerikeri - Paihia
October 17, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
Back to Paihia! Another 30km stint in the rain but started and finished strong with a McDonald's milkshake for breakfast and fish and chips in the hostel for dinner. Hard graft in the final kms but worth every minute of wet weather for the welcome at PeppertreeRead more
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- Day 18
- Wednesday, October 19, 2022
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 6 m
- New Zealand Tutaematai Stream -35.333333, 174.335°19’60” S 174°18’0” E
Paihia - The Farm
October 19, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Met back up with Jakob today to catch the ferry to Russell, and headed up together (off trail) to see the stunning ocean views at Tapeka Point. Got our first glimpse of a wild Kiwi bird en route, and ended the morning catching up with brilliant Fabian from Endless Summer over coffee, who then gave us a hitch to the start of the jungle track.

We spent the next 13km with Olli and Heiko, before getting ahead and arriving at the haven that was Northland's 'The Farm' - complete with coffee shop, hammocks, cold cans and fresh produce free to visitors. Had a lovely evening with Claire, Jonathan (France), Iveta (Czechia), Dale, Olli & Heiko, as well as some of the Farm guys, including James (UK) and Ryan (NZ)Read more
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- Day 19
- Thursday, October 20, 2022
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
- New Zealand Whananaki Inlet -35.514114, 174.45847535°30’51” S 174°27’31” E
The Farm - Whananaki
October 20, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Super lucky day today as we got two brilliant hitches to turn 2 days of road walking into 1 day of complete trail tramping. First from Cath (NZ) who picked us up in her van and took us on a little tour of Oakura before dropping us at Helena Bay, and then next from Leah (NZ) who took us into Whananaki. In between we enjoyed the beauty (and seriously steep hills!) of Helena Ridge Track, stopping for lunch in a spot straight out of the Shire. Kipping tonight in the trampers hut at Whananaki Holiday Park, and even went for a quick swim in their pool to cool off after a pretty toasty dayRead more
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- Day 20
- Friday, October 21, 2022
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 14 m
- New Zealand Oturu Bay -35.61119, 174.52450135°36’40” S 174°31’28” E
Whananaki - Tutukaka
October 21, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Beautiful start to the day today heading over the southern hemisphere's longest footbridge and up into the coastal walk around Whananaki. A huge number of little coves along the way - with some seriously tempting blue-green water! This pretty section was unfortunately followed by a fair amount of road walking, but we got a hitch to Ngunguru not too far along it with Vic and Ezra, and then another with Dave (UK), from Worcester (whose girlfriend Lindsay is on the Scottish Rugby Team) to Tutukaka Holiday Park, our home for the next couple nights

Here we met Nikita (NZ) who was staying in our dorm, and Lesley and Mark from Topsham (UK) who are cycling the length of the country and are good friends with Min, my dissertation supervisor from last year!Read more
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- Day 21
- Saturday, October 22, 2022
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
- New Zealand Poor Knights Islands -35.471728, 174.73925235°28’18” S 174°44’21” E
Poor Knights Island
October 22, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Snorkelling in Poor Knights Islands today with Dive! Tutukaka. Beautiful day out on the boat (although started with some pretty rough seas!). Skipper was Steve (UK), and crew were Jimmy, Ruby, Jessie and Billy, all school kids working the ultimate summer job! Rounded off the day with an evening in the Twilight Market in Tutukaka - complete with live music and some really good local food!Read more
TravelerLooks like you are having a fantastic time - so pleased you are grabbing all the opportunities! Xx Ps love the hikers footwear 🙄🩴🧦
10/24/22Reply
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- Day 22
- Sunday, October 23, 2022
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 12 m
- New Zealand Pukenamu -35.739667, 174.5340935°44’23” S 174°32’3” E
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Tutukaka - Tidesong
October 23, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
We decided to dodge around the 3.5km waist-deep water/marsh crossings initially planned for today, and instead hitched a ride to the TA bypass through Mackerel Forest, covering 7kms and a couple of slightly less dramatic river crossings through the woods before catching another lift back to the trail head in Pataua North. Emma - the driver - also gave us a tour of town, including the surf beaches and the estuary and shared the secret to becoming a local - jumping off the footbridge - which we of course had to do (photographic evidence attached). After this it was just a couple KMs to the beautiful Tidesong B&B - hosted by Ros and Hugh - who plied us with cups of tea and fresh home cooking - and a bed for the night! They also had an amazing boardwalk complete with mangroves and the occasional eelRead more
Traveler Zoiks!!!!
11/2/22Reply
Traveler Love a good mangrove and a boardwalk - heavenly!
11/2/22Reply
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- Day 23
- Monday, October 24, 2022
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
- New Zealand Moturaka Island -35.837363, 174.57148235°50’15” S 174°34’17” E
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Tidesong - Ocean Beach
October 24, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
A bit of a late one today, beginning at 12.30 in order to correspond with low tide- but despite a waist deep wade across the estuary it was one of the most relaxed days so far - only 13kms to Ocean Beach campsite - leaving plenty of time to catch up with Jenny (NZ), Matt (NZ), Frits (Netherlands), Billy and Astrid (Netherlands) at camp (which even had the luxury of a warm shower. Early night here in order to prep for Bream Head the next day!Read more
Traveler Good to see the waterproof getting good use!
11/2/22Reply
Traveler Love the new socks!
11/3/22Reply
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- Day 25
- Wednesday, October 26, 2022
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 7 m
- New Zealand Ruakaka -35.905481, 174.45288935°54’20” S 174°27’10” E
Bream Head & Ruakaka
October 26, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
800m + of elevation today - most of which came in the first 2kms - but it was so worth it for the incredibly clear views from the Bream Head lookouts. The way down was perhaps even more brutal - dropping all that height on small wooden steps in a similar window - but the image of Whangerei Heads (and the promise of fish and chips) afterwards made it all worthwhile. Met back up with Matt, Jennie and Frits for food, and we took a boat ride with Blair across the bay to carry on our way. Then it was just a few kms down the highway to Ruakaka shops (helped by a ride from a friendly passer by) and another 4kms to the Holiday Park. Here we saw Olli and Heiko again - enjoying a zero day - as well as Astrid, Billy and Alan (Aus). We also met the amazing Henwood family (NZ) - who are walking the whole TA with their 9 and 12 year old. Massive admiration for this feat, especially as I think it was a battle for mum and dad to get Annabelle and I out for a half hour stroll with the dog at this age.Read more
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- Day 26
- Thursday, October 27, 2022
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 23 m
- New Zealand Mangawhai Heads -36.078186, 174.59551836°4’41” S 174°35’44” E
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Ruakaka - Mangawhai Heads Cliff Walk
October 27, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Mixing it up a bit due to injury and weather forecasts today, so we hitched down to Mangawhai Heads and the Coastal Cow, dropped our bags in the hostel and headed out to do part of the trail backwards. The lack of bag was an incredible help, taking the the strain off my calves and Jakob's knees, and it meant we could complete the whole beautiful 12km circuit along Mangawhai Cliffs, getting down onto the beach front to see the Natural Arch and hidden coves too.

Met the lovely Dawn and Jess too who passed on news from Annabelle, who was here a couple weeks back. Hoping to catch up with her in Raglan soon.Read more
Traveler That looks a bit high!
11/2/22Reply
Traveler Fab picture - but feeling slightly anxious remembering previous tree climbing adventures! Xxxx
11/2/22Reply
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- Day 27
- Friday, October 28, 2022
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 10 m
- New Zealand Mangawhai -36.126667, 174.57333336°7’36” S 174°34’24” E
Mangawhai Heads - Mangawhai
October 28, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Technically a rest day today, but with 6-7kms of on trail walking felt right to log it! Headed into town and to the Bennett's Chocolate Factory this morning and then made our way back along the boardwalk through the Mangroves to the hostel. Caught up here with Michelle (Aus), as we weighed up the next couple days , where plans were changing due to some serious rain on its way in. Am learning slowly that most planning is futile on the trail, and to take each day as it comes - so headed to sleep this night with a plan to aim for Warkworth and nothing much more!Read more
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- Day 28
- Saturday, October 29, 2022
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Altitude: 80 m
- New Zealand Waiwhiu -36.376381, 174.63358536°22’35” S 174°38’1” E
Dome Forest
October 29, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Really fell on our feet today - after no plan in the morning, we got a message from the lovely Carolyn and John - Trail Angels in Warkworth - who agreed to pick us up, take our bags to their place and then drop us at the start of the Dome Forest track, so we could get through before the worst of the rain. Sped through the 12kms of Dome (what is said in the trail notes to take 6 hours took us 3h15) and hitched back from the trail head to Warkworth with Glenys - who invited us to her family BBQ. So much good food was eaten, and many beers drunk before we headed back to John and Carolyn's to wait out the next day's rain (with their gorgeous dogs Benny and Jetsy, and Ziggy the cat)Read more
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- Day 30
- Monday, October 31, 2022
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 11 m
- New Zealand Puhoi -36.511667, 174.6636°30’42” S 174°39’36” E
Dome - Puhoi Pub
October 31, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
After a drop off back on trail by Trail Angel John we had a lovely (and sunny) walk on a mainly gravel track, which was distinctly welcome considering yesterday's rain. There were some muddy patches through the bush, as well as a pretty tight downhill scramble between gorse and electric fence, but the promise of the famous Puhoi Pub at the end of the trail kept us going, and even the slightly panicked revelation that we'd kept Carolyn and John's key turned to a bit of luck in the end, as we caught up to John on his school bus run, reunited him with the key and caught a lift for the final couple KMs to boot. Arrived at the pub to discover the (recently defeated) US women's rugby team getting their end of event party on - which, in addition to the possibility of beers, pizza and warm showers, made for an perfect end of trail evening.Read more
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- Day 31
- Tuesday, November 1, 2022
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 11 m
- New Zealand Waiwera River -36.530957, 174.71205136°31’51” S 174°42’43” E
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Puhoi - Wenderholm
November 1, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
A kayaking day today from Puhoi, with plenty of time to relax in the morning and catch up with Stan (Belgium), Lena and Ben (Aus) and also Jodie (UK/Ireland/Aus) - who I eventually realised is the Jodie Emma Chong is friends with (so thanks Emma for putting us in contact!!). Great to get out on the river and use the arms instead of the legs for once - and it was a perfect day for it, with the river just returning to usual after the heavy rain.Read more
TravelerLovely to get a postcard from you this morning! Really enjoying your trail updates and full of admiration for the distance and obstacles you have overcome!!xxx
11/3/22Reply
Traveler Paddling off to new adventures - enjoy!! We are having Kiwi pie for our Sunday lunch thinking of you xxxx
11/6/22Reply
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