Day 8 — Aiani to Ptolemaida — 31 miles, ~2,300 ft

planned an easy Sunday ride. No cafes open, Swedish fish and instant hotel lukewarm warm and instant coffee for breakfast

The morning started beautifully—cool, quiet, almost no wind. I stopped outside an Orthodox church and listened to the priest singing in Greek, then later stopped at a little roadside chapel, lit a candle.

The problem was finding coffee or food. Everything in the little villages were closed. I was looking at my phone and a nice a woman called to me from her balcony, opened her door and gave me fresh coffee and cake. Very nice lady, husband didn’t seem happy. But Google translate helped, I gave her a hug and her husband shook my hand

I stopped in Kozani and sat for a while watching people have their Sunday coffee. No tourists, no gift shops, no McDonald’s—just people living their lives.

Then came the work. The wind picked up Always head wind, sucked. . An old man standing along one little neighborhood street stared at me as I approached. I waved. He stood at attention and saluted me.

I made it to Ptolemaida. Rented a VRBO apartment, very nice washer to do laundry.

Tonight: clean clothes, beef cheeks for the first time, and apparently when you ask for ouzo in northern Greece, you may get tsipouro. Tastes like Ouso. Tomorrow cross the border to north MacedoniaRead more