Puno on Lake Titicaca

Today was a driving day. We left the Colca Canyon area at 8:30 this morning and took the drive to Puno on Lake Titicaca. We made occasional stops along the way, including for Inca tea, lunch andもっと詳しく
Today was a driving day. We left the Colca Canyon area at 8:30 this morning and took the drive to Puno on Lake Titicaca. We made occasional stops along the way, including for Inca tea, lunch and comfort stops. (One of the side effects of taking the prescription altitude pills is frequent urination.)
We arrived at our hotel at 3:30 p.m. and said our goodbyes to Victor and Juan.
Victor had told us there was a major festival going on in Puno and that we should try and go. It’s the celebration of Candelaria, the patron saint of Puno and has groups of people dancing in the street to marching bands. It’s a huge deal in Peru and the surrounding countries. Of course we wanted to check it out. You can read more about it here:
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/artic…
The hotel front desk called a cab for us because our hotel is a distance from the city center, but on the lake. We realize now how wonderful that is. (We ran into a guy from Vancouver we met a couple of days ago and his hotel is near the main square. He said he couldn’t sleep, even with ear plugs.)
It was such bedlam once we got downtown that we ended up jumping out of the cab and walking towards the music, which wasn’t far. The videos and pictures tell the story. At one point, it was so crowded in one of the narrow streets that Brad and I were basically trapped and couldn’t move forward. After about five minutes we decided we’d had our fill and backtracked. We walked away from the activities and got a cab back to the quiet of our hotel.もっと詳しく
We had a 7 a.m. start to take a boat ride on Lake Titicaca to visit two of its islands. The first island was the one that Brad and I were particularly excited about. It’s one of the famed Reed Islands. The second was an island called Taquile and is about a 90 minute ride from the shore.
Our guide, Abad, guided us around the Reed Island and explained that there are 120 of these islands on Lake Titicaca. The islanders have traditionally relied on fishing but fish stocks have depleted so they’re welcoming tourists to visit. There’s a rotation and each island gets a turn if they’re interested.
The islands are made out of reeds and each platform is about three metres thick.
We were on one that’s 11 years old and they typically last about 35 years. The reeds on the houses reed replacing every eight months. You can learn more about them here:
https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220814-the…
Taquile is an Island with a population of about 2,200 famous for its textiles which were proclaimed "Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity" by UNESCO. What was particularly fascinating about the island culture was that the men knit and the women weave.
The men knit with standard knitting needles, but they also knit with crochet hooks😲, which, as a crocheter, I found absolutely fascinating. There is a very dense, tight knit that is done with two very fine crochet hooks. Young boys need to master creating this tight weave in order to be marriage ready. Once they’ve mastered the technique and believe that they have woven a tight enough hat, they’re ready to propose. When they do, the future father-in-law will pour water into the hat to ensure that it doesn’t leak and he isn’t lazy..
We were able to walk around the island and see the terrace farms and enjoy a wonderful lunch. This adventure took the better part of the day and. The festival we went to yesterday is in full swing in the city centre so we decided we were going to have a quiet night in and simply have dinner at our hotel restaurant because we have another early start tomorrow morning.
We’ll be taking the train to Cusco.もっと詳しく
It was a travel day today. We boarded a train in Puno for the 10-hour ride to Cusco. When we arrived at the train station, we were the only ones in the waiting room. Shortly after, another couple arrived. We were a bit puzzled because we figured there should be a lot more people. As it turned out, there were 14 of us in a 65 seat car. There was another passenger car that was empty. This is a luxury train operated by Peru Rail, but serviced by Belmond.
We were surprised that there was entertainment on the train - a four piece band performed, there was a fashion show and a dancer. So unexpected. We were served a three course lunch with wine and afternoon tea later. There was an outdoor observation area at the back of the train that allowed us to wave to people as we passed through towns, sometimes in the middle of a street!
We met a couple from Australia and spoke with them a fair bit. The time flew and the train arrived in Cusco on time. Our escort, Ruth, was there to greet us and deliver us to our hotel which is the 500-year-old former home of Cusco’s first bishop.
After getting set in our room we went for a walk in search of something to eat. We ended up having some street meat which was delicious. Cusco is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and we’re excited to explore it further.もっと詳しく
What. A. Day. It was our first day delving more deeply into Inca culture and history and it did not disappoint. It was the perfect precursor to our eventual trip to Machu Picchu.
Our driver Juan and guide Cesar picked us up at 8 a.m and our first stop was to the Parwa Cultural Centre to feed some alpacas and Guinea pigs and learn about traditional ways alpaca wool is washed, dyed and woven. This facility was a collective of five families.
The methods and materials that are used in the dyes are fascinating - different seeds and herbs and even insects. In fact, the Peruvian shades of red are all from a bug found in cactus! It was fascinating.
From there, we visited a town called Chinchero. It’s an ancient Inca town and includes ruins of the Tupac Yupanqui Inca palace and a Spanish church from 1607. The church is being restored.
Next, we visited Moray, which the Incas used as a sort of agricultural lab with different micro climates at each terrace level.
Our final stop was Ollantayambo, an ancient military, religious and agricultural centre from the mid 15th century. It’s strategically located on a mountain and demonstrates original Inca urban design. We successfully climbed up to the top despite the altitude. (Brad and I have been taken aback by how winded we get climbing stairs in these altitudes.)
You can read more about the Sacred Valley here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacred_Valley
It was a long and exhausting day, so we had a quiet night.もっと詳しく
We had a relatively late start today, 9 a.m. and Cesar came and met us with a driver to take us on a tour of the city of Cusco. We haven’t actually had an opportunity to visit the sites here, just walk around in the evening. We were really looking forward to learning more about this beautiful city.
Cusco (or Cuzco) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has a population of about 500,000. It was the capital of the Inca kingdom until the 16th century Spanish conquest. Most people use Cusco as their gateway to Machu Picchu.
Our first stop was to the ruins of an Inca fort, Sacsayhuaman (pronounced sort of like sexy woman😉) above Cusco, about a 15-minute drive from our hotel. In addition to seeing the ruins, it provided one of the most spectacular views of Cusco down below. From there, we went to another site which had been the Inca’s royal mortuary. It was where they prepared bodies for mummification.
Next, we drove down to the historic city centre and toured the Inca Koricancha temple which the Spanish turned into the Domingo Convent. The original Inca sections are still standing despite numerous earthquakes.
Our last stop was at the Cathedral Basilica of the Virgin of the Assumption built by the Spanish. It took 108 years to build and and was completed in 1654. Unfortunately, no photography was permitted there.
It was now early afternoon and Brad and I were starving. Cesar suggested a couple of restaurants before we said our goodbyes. We chose Lido, a Nikkei restaurant. Delicious.
It was raining once we finished lunch so went back to our hotel to relax and pack our backpacks for our extremely early train to Machu Picchu tomorrow morning. We’ll be leaving our luggage at the hotel since we return to Cusco when we’re finished our two days in Machu Picchu.
For dinner, we chose a restaurant called Murano serving contemporary spins on traditional Peruvian food. Delicious.もっと詳しく
Today was the day we finally made it to Machu Picchu after our plans to visit five years ago were scuttled by Covid. Getting here is complicated. We had a 5:30 a.m. pick up for a 90-minute drive to the train station. The hotel in Cusco had prepared a boxed breakfast for us which we planned to eat on the train.
The drive was scenic so it wasn’t torturous. Once at the train station, we waited for our train to be ready to board. Brad and I presented our tickets and when we looked at the clipboard that the man was holding, we saw only two names on it. Ours. He then directed us onto the car. We asked if we were the only passengers on the car to which he responded yes. So, we had a private railway car to Machu Picchu! Bonus! We were able to move around the car and stretch our legs as well as sit in different seats for different vantage points.
The train ride to Machu Picchu Village is about two hours because there are inevitable delays along the way. We had at least two 10-minute delays. Upon arriving at the Machu Picchu train station, our guide, Roger, was there waiting for us and explained that we would head straight to our hotel, drop off our bags and then he would meet us again at 11:30 a.m. to grab the bus to Machu Picchu which is about another half hour ride. We had an opportunity to walk around the village a bit before meeting up with Roger.
The process of getting on the bus is quite simple - just line up and wait your turn. The buses run continuously. Tickets have a timed entry which is strictly enforced. Upon arriving at Machu Picchu, you present your passport and your ticket and are directed to the circuit to which you’ve bought a ticket. There are three circuits. We had tickets to circuit two. Tomorrow, we have tickets for circuit three. As you can imagine, it’s a fair bit of climbing, sometimes on stairs with proper bannisters, other times simply rock steps, so it’s somewhat arduous.
Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude than Cusco so the feeling of being out of breath wasn’t bad. Completing the circuit took about 2 1/2 hours. We managed to climb to the viewpoint where you can see the entire Lost City and then ventured down so that we could see the buildings close up.
It’s everything I imagined it would be.
We’ll have a quiet night and dinner at the hotel to rest up for another visit to the site tomorrow.もっと詳しく
We had another entry ticket to Machu Picchu for 8 this morning. This time, it was for circuit three which we found a little less challenging than yesterday’s circuit two. It was also interesting to go when the weather was significantly different from yesterday because we were there in the morning. The cloud cover over the mountains gave the site a very eerie feeling. You could feel the remoteness and isolation far more than when it was sunny during yesterday’s visit. Still mind-blowing.
Once we were done, we went back to Machu Picchu town and explored the area, had lunch, and headed for the train station to take the 90 minute trip to Ollantaytambo. When we arrived, our escort Ruth was there to greet us with a driver for the 90-minute drive back to Cusco.
It’ll be a quiet night for us. It’s our final night in Peru as we fly to Bolivia tomorrow.
Brad and I have reflected on the two weeks we’ve spent here and concluded that this is one of our favourite trips we’ve ever taken. Peru is so full of history and rich culture and the people are warm and welcoming. And the food is delicious.😉もっと詳しく
Our two-week Peruvian adventure ended this morning when we flew out of Cusco to La Paz, Bolivia. It’s only an hour-long flight. We’re now back to a slightly higher altitude, and we’ve also moved an hour ahead.
Our guide, Franz, was waiting for us at the airport and led us to the car and driver to go to our hotel. La Paz is in a valley and has a population of about 750,000. El Alto, the higher ground above La Paz, has a population of about 1.2 million.
Franz won’t be taking us around La Paz until tomorrow so he suggested we take a wander around our immediate neighbourhood including a market full of handicrafts and souvenir stuff as well as the “witches market” which he said he would explain to us tomorrow. We told him we wanted to go somewhere informal for dinner, not where tourists go. He suggested we go sample Bolivian fast food fried chicken at a place called Copacabana. So that’s what we did.
The market isn’t a building but an area of a number of streets. Franz warned us that there were lots of hills in La Paz and he wasn’t kidding. Much like in Peru, alpaca wool and lamb’s wool items dominate the shops. The witches market was stocked with dehydrated animals😳, talismans and herbs. Looking forward to hearing more about this tomorrow. We did go to Copacabana for dinner and the fried chicken was fabulous. No cutlery is available but there are sinks at the front of the store to wash your hands.
Our first impressions of La Paz is it’s a colourful, bustling city with street venders everywhere, traffic chaos and plenty of murals. We’ll have a better sense of it tomorrow after we tour around.
We’re spending the night in and resting up for tomorrow.もっと詳しく
Well, we wandered around a little bit on our own yesterday afternoon, today we had a proper tour with our driver, Jesus, and our guide, Franz. We started out with a little bit of a drive from our hotel to the Valley of the Moon.
Over the centuries, the valley has been shaped by winds and rains to create this unusual landscape of white chimneys. That’s because the surface is clay instead of rock. It’s a spectacular site. While it’s a protected natural site, the city of La Paz has grown right up to it which makes it somewhat surreal.
From there, we hopped back in the car and drove to a lookout point to get perspective of just how sprawling the city is in a bowl with houses and buildings all the way up to the sides. It’s really unlike any other place we’ve seen.
Our next adventure was to sample the public transit system here. Because it’s impossible to build a subway here the solution has been cable cars. We found it incredibly innovative and impressive.
Next stop was the historic area, including narrow, winding streets as well as the main square with the cathedral, the presidents palace and the legislature. Because it’s Sunday, everything is very low-key, and even the cathedral had already closed its doors.
Our final stop was to visit the vegetable and fruit market as well as the witches market. We had walked around the witches market yesterday, but didn’t really understand the items for sale there. Franz explained that the old rituals are still followed by great numbers of people here. The most common of these rituals is to make offerings and to burn the offerings with a particular wish or prayer in mind such as wealth, travel, health, etc.
We then went for a late lunch and came back to our hotel for an afternoon rest. La Paz is so hilly that there’s a lot of climbing. The high altitude does sap your energy.
Franz advised us Sunday evenings are particularly quiet in La Paz; even most restaurants are closed. We purposely had a big lunch so we went out and found a snack for dinner. We heard music so thought we’d go find it. Sure enough, there was a parade underway as part of carnival celebrations because it’s Lent. It was similar to the celebrations we saw in Puno in Peru - music and dancing. An unexpected treat!もっと詳しく
Our guide Franz and our driver Jesus picked us up this morning to take us outside La Paz to see the Tiwanaku Ruins which date back to 400 to 900 AD. The drive there takes about an hour-and-a-half but is well worth the drive. The site is an important and interesting window into an advanced pre-Inca civilization. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site.
The ruins were discovered in the early 1900s but weren’t really excavated until the 1960s. The ruins cover a lot of ground and include two museums. Brad and I were fascinated by their ability to carve stone when the only metals being used in that period were silver, gold, and copper. As you’ll see in the photos, the monoliths have detailed carvings, and the structures and stones used have precise cuts. How were those cuts made? It’s a mystery. You can read more about it here:
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/567/
It was mid afternoon by the time we got to the La Paz so we had a late lunch/early dinner. We were keen to try llama which we hadn’t found anywhere in Peru and sure enough we found a restaurant that served it. It was quite beef-like and delicious. When we finished lunch, it had started to rain so we went back to the hotel and relaxed before going out later once the rain had stopped for another walk around.もっと詳しく
旅行者
Wow imagine doing that in those shoes! Love their clothing ❤️
旅行者
Beautiful clothes ☺️
旅行者
I wonder if he made it to the end of the parade route?
旅行者🤣