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Peru, Bolivia & Easter IslandPeru, Bolivia & Easter Island
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Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island

januar – marts 2025
  • Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli
Et 30-dags eventyr af Kadi & Brad Læs mere
  • Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island

    And we’re off!

    31. januar, Canada ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Brad and I are at the airport about to board a flight to Lima via Bogota, Colombia.

    We’ve tried to visit Peru twice before: the first time in 2020 and our plans were ruined by the Covid outbreak; the second was in 2023 when we were on a world cruise and the ports in Peru were cancelled because of political unrest.

    We’re confident that third time’s a charm!    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    2Our hotel
    The MaleconTerrace restaurantCorn pie for lunch1Magnificent murals13Paddington Bear is from PeruNikkei dishes for dinner2211Parque Kennedy is a popular spot1Cat hotel3One of the dozens of cats in the park2Dancing in the park

    Lima, Peru - Day 1

    1. februar, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    After a long night of traveling, we arrived in Lima mid morning and breezed through immigration and picking up our luggage to meet our escort Julio. Julio went through our itinerary for the coming days, as well as pointed out things along the 45 minute drive to our hotel.

    We’re staying at a boutique hotel in Lima’s lively Miraflores neighbourhood, known for its restaurants and shopping. Unfortunately, our room wasn’t quite ready, so we stored our luggage and went out exploring with instructions from the front desk on where to find lunch. The temperature was a comfortable 25 Celsius, but the humidity was 75% so it was a bit sticky.

    We ventured down to the waterfront area where there are shops and restaurants and had lunch at an ocean view terrace restaurant.

    By early afternoon, we headed back to our hotel to have a rest given the red eye flights we had taken.

    Peru is known as a culinary centre and is home to some of the world’s best restaurants. It’s known for Japanese-Peruvian fusion dishes called Nikkei. We decided to try to get a “walk in” table at Tomo Cocina Nikkei, a short 20 minute walk from our hotel. It’s owned by two former chefs from Maido, one
    of the most famous restaurants in the world.

    The restaurant opened at seven so we made a point of getting there about 10 minutes before the doors opened. There were other people who had the same idea to get a walk-in table. We struck up a conversation with a man from LA. Turned out he had a reservation for three and his dining companions had bailed so he welcomed us to join him. Win-win! We had lively conversation and delicious food.

    We took a leisurely walk back to the hotel through Parque Kennedy, also known as the cat park.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/parque-john…    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island

    Bogotá stopover

    1. februar, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    When you stop in Bogota, Columbia en route to Lima, you have coffee. Especially when it’s 5:30 in the morning.

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    Foggy morning at Love Park
    Love ParkTemples discovered in LimaGetting ready for the paradeThe famous monument with a monumental mistake. Note the woman.The llama🤣The old town is being restoredCar free pedestrian promenades1The old post officeThe mail slot for the post officeMonasteryQuite moorishMonastery libraryTapada limeña Learn more here: https://www.ancient-origins.net/weird-facts/tapada-limena-0019159The Market1Pisco Sour and Lima's version of Swiss Chalet🥰

    Lima, Peru - Day 2

    2. februar, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Had a leisurely breakfast at our hotel and then went to the hotel lobby to meet our guide for our private tour today.Omar, a born and bred Peruvian from Lima, met us with a driver and started by taking us to the coast area and Love Park which is full of mosaics and benches styled after those of the Gaudi Park in Barcelona. It was a bit foggy but lovely nonetheless.

    We were grateful that it was Sunday because Lima traffic is said to be horrible, and Sundays are known to have the lightest traffic. We travelled from the beach area to the Huaca Pucllana archaeological site and then to the city centre where there’s a large square, Plaza San Martín, with monuments as well as government buildings. Given its lent/carnival, there was a special celebration on the Square which was full of people awaiting the parade. It was a wonderful festive atmosphere.

    (One of the most interesting tidbits we learned at the Square was about the monument at the centre of it. The statue includes a woman symbolizing freedom, much like the Statue of Liberty, and the sculptor was asked to include a flame on her head. Ironically, the Spanish word for flame and llama are similar, and the artist assumed that the request was for a llama. So, sure enough, she sports a llama on her head.🤣)

    From there, we travelled to the historic area of Lima which is being rejuvenated. Many, many buildings have already been restored, but there is much work still underway. It was lovely. We ended our tour with a visit to a monastery. We finished up around 1 pm and asked to be dropped off at the market which is expansive and offers all types of Peruvian handicrafts. We didn’t explore all of it because it was so huge. From there, we were able to walk back to our hotel and visit the cat park again.

    We took a bit of a rest before setting out to have a cheap and cheerful dinner. Omar had suggested we go to a typical Lima chicken place, Pardos. It really was Swiss Chalet Peruvian style with rotisserie chicken, salad and fries. It was casual with a very diverse clientele of families, couples, etc. Ideal after our “fancy“ dinner last night. After dinner, there was a casino on the route back to our hotel so of course I had to go lose a few sol.

    We also came upon a dollar store that looked eerily familiar. Sure enough, Dollar City in Peru is owned by Dollarama. A bit of Canada in Peru. ❤️    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    On the coast in Pisco, collecting seaweed for fertilizer
    1A couple of swingers😁Fishing boatsBrad heading to the plane to fly over the Nazca LinesOn our way1The Peruvian landscapeParrotClearly a monkeyObviously a spiderDog upside downDog againTree up top and hands on the bottomSpiral1🐒Back to Lima

    Pisco and Nazca Lines, Peru

    3. februar, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We had an early start today at 7:30 am
    and got on the road with our guide Omar and driver to take a long drive to Pisco. Pisco is a coastal city about a four hour drive from Lima and known for being the site where the Pisco liquor was invented. It’s also well known for being a take off point for trips to fly over the Nazca Lines. In 2023, we were booked to fly over the lines but civil unrest ruined those plans. We were excited to finally get to see these incredible creations.

    You can learn more about the Lines here:

    https://www.britannica.com/place/Nazca-Lines

    The drive there was through a desert landscape with mountains, sporadic green patches and stretches of squatter houses. It’s a landscape quite unlike any we’d seen before. We had time to stop on the coast in Pisco for a walk along the waterfront before heading to the airport to board a small plane to fly over the Lines. What a sight!

    Brad and I managed to capture some images but they just can’t capture how spectacular it is to see them.

    We had a late lunch at a coastal resort with our guide and got back on the road for the long drive back to Lima.

    So worth the effort.    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    Walking along the malecon
    Stunning landscapingIn BarrancoWe love visiting grocery stores. Peru is where potatoes originated and there are countless varieties1Loved these ready to go charcuterie kitsThe bridge of wishesThe murals were spectacular and everywhereThe libraryThe town square1Even telephone poles were used as canvases1Taking a break for a Chicha morada made from purple corn and lemonade

    Last day in Lima

    4. februar, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    It’s our final day in Lima and we had no set plans and were able to freestyle. Our guide from yesterday, Omar, had suggested we visit a neighbourhood called Barranco. It was an easy walk from our hotel to the neighborhood, about 30 minutes. And we were able to take the walk along the Malecon, which is the oceanside promenade.

    The neighbourhood was charming, reminiscent of Soho or West Queen West. Tons of cute, boutiques, restaurants, bars, galleries, and murals. It was a wonderful way to spend the day.

    We walked back home by mid afternoon, wanting to rest up for the grand finale: dinner at Central, named the best restaurant in the world in 2023. It’s a fascinating restaurant which showcases ingredients from the various elevations of Peru. We had reserved it back in November after having our reservation in 2020 cancelled by Covid. We were very much looking forward to finally getting there. (I’ll post a separate footprint to share our experience there.)

    We’ve been charmed by Lima. It’s a city that offers interesting sites, a beautiful ocean side, fascinating history and excellent food. What’s not to love?    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    There's a garden courtyard before entering1The menuThis course was seaweed basedThat's charcoal 😲Surprise!The presentation was extraordinaryEvery course was presented with descriptionsEven the dishes and utensils were out of the ordinaryWe were given a number of booklets about the cuisinePork course1A dessert made from every bit of a cocoa fruit, including the skin

    Dinner at Central

    4. februar, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    In 2020, we had a reservation to go to Central for dinner. It was then among the top 10 restaurants in the world. But Covid hit and we never made it to Peru. Since then, Central was named the best restaurant in the world in 2023.

    We managed to secure a reservation back in November and tonight was the night. It did not disappoint. We had a 13-course tasting menu with Peruvian ingredients by elevation. An unforgettable experience.    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    The historic area is a UNESCO World Heritage site
    Looking Spanish2Six or seven people with typewriters hang out at the Square to type documents for peopleFranciscan Cathedral1Note the depiction of the last supper above the paintingIt's been made Peru relevant. Jesus has a platter of guinea pig.🤷‍♀️Transporting a box home in a scarf/backpackMany people come down from the Andes mountains to earn money by posing for photosGarbage collection is like an ice cream truck coming through with music and people bring their bagsThe braids… Look how intricate they are at the bottomThe conventA room at the conThe rocks were the washing machineThere are 55 paintings around the room, just like a rosaryAnother roomLaundry basins2Alpaca fillet1Lamb for Brad, which he shared with me and I shared my alpaca. Lamb is incredibly mild here.

    Hello, Arequipa

    5. februar, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We had a super early start to the day because we had a morning flight to Arequipa. It’s not a long flight, only about an hour and 15 minutes but with any air travel you always have to be at the airport early. The flight was uneventful and our new guide Victor was there waiting for us once we picked up our luggage.

    He informed us he’d be our guide for our entire stay in the region and that our hotel room was ready despite check in being at 2 p.m. so the driver would drop us off at the hotel. Bonus! We’d have time for some lunch and Brad could have a nap. Victor would be back in the afternoon to take us on a walking tour.

    Arequipa is a city of about 1.5 million at an altitude of 2,335 metres so we started taking our altitude sickness pills today before we head to higher altitudes tomorrow. We’ve been to Quito, which is at a high altitude, but this trip we’re going to be going significantly higher in both Peru and Bolivia.

    The other key to avoiding altitude, sickness is to drink water, water and more water. Victor advised us to drink a minimum of two litres a day, which we’re doing.

    We’ve been really surprised at how charming Arequipa is. Founded in 1540, the historical area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and very Spanish. Because we’re in earthquake territory, there are many buildings that didn’t survive but some still remain, including an incredible convent which we toured.

    The convent was actually a private one. Wealthy families would pay $10,000 in the 1800s to have their daughter live there along with her companion/maid. As you’ll see in the photos, the accommodations were pretty sweet for that era.

    For dinner this evening, Victor recommended a restaurant where we could try alpaca meat and we were keen. Brad and I are always adventurous eaters. That said, we decided to order two different meals. One of us would order alpaca the other would order lamb and share them. That way, if we didn’t really like the alpaca we’d have something else to eat. The alpaca was fine, but it was actually flavourless. Not at all like beef or lamb. Just kind of boring. But we’ve tried it and we don’t need to have it again.    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    View of the volcanos from just outside Arequipa
    1Further along our drive up, we started to see vicuñasVicuñas crossing1Vicuñas follow the Alpha in their group2Drinking Inca/coca tea to prevent altitude sickness1Llamas!🥰More llamas2Llama petting1An infantChewing coca leaves, another preventive measure1Reaching today's high pointSurrounded by volcanos at 4910 m1The volcano behind us is even higher.Chivay is a small town of 7,000Town Square1The hats women wear indicate what native language they speak1

    Into the Andes

    6. februar, Arabian Sea ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Today’s start wasn’t too early; 8 a.m. and our guide and driver met us to head up into the Andes. Arequipa is already at a high altitude (2,235 meters) but we were heading much higher. We had started our altitude pills yesterday morning and were advised by Victor that we’d be doing supplementary herbal things to ensure that we had a comfortable climb. In order to prepare for the ascent, we stopped at a shop that sold coca leaves as well as herbal pills.

    Once we reached around 4,000 metres we stopped for coca/inca tea. When we reached 4,400 meters, our guide Victor instructed us how to get the coca leaves ready for chewing. We did as instructed and were surprised at how soon we felt our tongues slightly numbing as Victor had predicted they would.
    We were grateful for Victor‘s coaching.

    We made a number of stops along the way to admire the landscape and to look for wildlife. We succeeded in seeing vacuna as well as Andes rabbits. We stopped at a llama farm and went to a lookout where we saw numerous volcanoes. Once we’d seen the volcanos at the 4,910 altitude level, we travelled downward to a town where we’ll spend two nights. It’s called Chivay, has a population of 7,000 and is a gateway to Colca Canyon, tomorrow’s destination.    Læs mere

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  • Peru, Bolivia & Easter Island
    The children dance before school
    Parents didn't approve of girls and boys mixing so boys dressed as girls to hang out with them.At Colca Canyon2Terrace farmsThe section of the Canyon where it's most likely to spot some condors1Yes!Spotted at a distanceSoaringThree meter wingspan7A juvenile condor, more brown than black1Cactus fruitSampling a Colca Sour made with cactus juiceMany women of the Andes wear traditional clothes as their regular wardrobeBenches outside the marketAnother hatDeep frying, some sort of pastryHauling home their purchases3Note the ceilingIt's made from plastic water bottlesThe market has everything from apparel to hardware and electronicsAlpaca meat. We've seen it on virtually every menu here in the Andes and had it for lunch todaySpotted as we walked back to our hotel

    Colca Canyon and Condors

    7. februar, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Today was a big day. We set out at 6:30 a.m. and stopped in a small town of about 1,000 to watch children dance. The children from the mountains come to the town square and perform traditional dances in order to raise money for their school to buy new equipment. It was incredible.

    From there, we carried on to the big event of the day: the Colca Canyon, the second deepest Canyon in the world and twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. And to hopefully see some condors. Condors are scavenger birds that are huge with a wingspan of three meters. They glide as opposed to flapping their wings to fly. They use thermal air to lift them skyward.

    Our guide Victor explained that there were never any guarantees that we would actually see them soar. We were extremely fortunate and saw a number of them at a distance and some quite close. It was thrilling.

    After spending a few hours doing that we headed to lunch in another small town but had a drink before hand. The local specialty is called a Colca Sour, a take on the Pisco Sour but it’s made with cactus juice. It was quite tasty.

    After lunch, we returned to our hotel just as it began to rain and relaxed, having gotten up so early. In the early evening, we set out to the town square and explore the town market.    Læs mere

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