Loch Ness

Day 2 - Loch Ness: A Battle with the Elements and a Poetic Pursuit of Nessie!

We slipped our lines from Dochgarroch and headed towards the legendary Loch Ness. When you purchase a Caledonian Canal ticket, you receive a 7-day license allowing transit from one end to the other. This time constraint meant that while we might have preferred to wait out the winds for another day, we simply didn't have the luxury. Adding to the urgency, the wind forecast for the following day was even worse. The winds were coming directly from the South West – a headwind, right on the nose – and predicted to gust up to 30 knots, typically not our preferred sailing conditions. Believing we'd find some shelter within the Loch compared to the open sea, we departed.

It was not pleasant. The first few hundred meters offered a deceptive calm, still within a very sheltered section. It felt surreal, gliding along the water while vehicles whizzed by on the adjacent road. But as we rounded a bend, and Loch Ness opened up before us, nature truly showed her raw power. Due to the immense length of the Loch and the wind blowing directly towards us, a significant fetch had been created. In nautical terms, fetch refers to the uninterrupted distance over which wind can blow across open water. The longer the fetch, the more energy the wind can impart to the water, resulting in larger and more powerful waves building up. Here, the vast expanse of Loch Ness allowed the waves to build to an impressive size. Halcyon Sea was relentlessly slamming into the waves, each one breaking over the bow, sending cascades of water down the side deck. The scenery was moody, the water looking angry, and heavy grey clouds shrouded the tops of the hills in mist and fog. Yet, despite the challenging conditions, it still looked mystically stunning.

Loch Ness: Depths, Legends, and a Castle's Gaze

Loch Ness is Scotland's most voluminous body of freshwater, famously holding more water than all the lakes of England and Wales combined. It stretches approximately 23 miles (37 km) long and reaches an astonishing depth of 745 feet (227 meters), making it the second deepest loch in Scotland. Its vast, dark waters are, of course, synonymous with the legend of the Loch Ness Monster, Nessie, a creature whose elusive nature has captivated the world for centuries.

We hugged the coastline, eager to catch sight of Urquhart Castle. The dramatic ruins came into view at the end of a peninsula, and for a few fleeting minutes, the clouds parted, revealing a patch of brilliant blue sky. Urquhart Castle boasts a rich and turbulent history spanning over 500 years. Strategically positioned on a rocky promontory overlooking Loch Ness, it was once one of Scotland's largest castles. Its past is filled with tales of conflict, including battles during the Wars of Scottish Independence and its eventual destruction in 1692 to prevent its use by Jacobite forces. Today, its ruins offer a poignant glimpse into Scotland's past and remain a popular tourist attraction, drawing countless visitors hoping to soak in its history and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of Nessie.

Nessie's Elusive Nature and a Poetic Tribute

We continued our journey towards Fort Augustus. The rain came and went, the fog swirled in and out, and our search for Nessie continued, but she proved as elusive today as she has for centuries. It's worth noting that we're also following the journey of Martin and Stefan on their boat, Adele, whom we met in Whitby. They've raced ahead, weeks ahead of us now, also circumnavigating. Something about the Canal seems to ignite the creative spark in people, and Martin, in particular, began writing stories and limericks during their transit. One such story involved fishing for Nessie with a Bockwurst. So, in true Tracey style, she penned her own poem – Martin and Stefan, we hope you appreciate it!

The Ballad of Halcyon Sea (and the Sausage of Suspense)

Through Scotland's locks and highland gleam,
We chased a whisper, chased a dream.
A beast beneath the Nessie tide,
Where mist and monsters often hide.

Our friends had charted this bizarre:
On Adele, with a sausage jar.
Martin, Stefan - hearty souls,
Had dangled meat in monster holes.

Their bait? A wurst, both bold and plump,
Grey-flecked, spiced and slightly... dumped.
It bobbed about the inky foam,
A siren song to call her home.

Now Tracey steers, while Nick keeps watch,
With charts and rum (no need for scotch),
And Pepper stands with noble pride,
Our lookout pup, small tail held wide.

Halcyon Sea in their wake did sail,
A few weeks late, but right on tale.
With Nessie lore and hope to lure,
We stowed a bockwurst, firm and pure.

The loch grew still. A Tremble. Thunk!
A shadow loomed, then swiftly sunk.
We dropped the sausage with great care,
One sniff could spark a maritime scare.

But Nessie, shy, gave just a swirl,
A ripple, splash, a soggy twirl,
Then vanished deep, like dreams at dawn,
While Pepper barked: "She's nearly gone!"

So now we dock with tales well spun,
The sausage tossed, the voyage done.
No monster caught, yet joy immense,
A journey rich in lore and sense.

With engine off, we raise a toast,
To Nessie, our elusive ghost.
Halcyon Sea shall rest awhile,
With Pepper dreaming, curled in style.

Poetry done, we carried on down Loch Ness towards Fort Augustus. At first, we struggled to see the red and green buoys marking the route, and then Nick spotted the red can at the end of the spit – we never did find the green one! We came alongside the pontoon before the next set of locks and tied up for the night. We have no electricity here, so we're relying on the boat battery for lights and phone charging, and gas for cooking. The bikes have been stowed in the saloon for now, patiently waiting for a better day for an outing.

That night, we decided that as we hadn't eaten out for a while, we would treat ourselves. The challenge was that not many places allowed dogs inside, and it was too cold to sit and eat a meal in a garden. The Lock Inn, however, did allow dogs and provided typical bar meals, which suited us perfectly. As we finished our meal, an Australian lady named Nicole came over to fuss Pepper, and we struck up a conversation. She then made her way to her waiting friend upstairs, but it wasn't long before she and Anne came down, eager to ask us questions about our journey, specifically about Pepper's role. We spent the next hour or so swapping stories about how we had all arrived at Fort Augustus and what our future plans entailed. It turned out to be a captivating evening, and we returned to the boat content.Læs mere