First Day on the Caledonian Canal

We Made It: Our First Day on the Caledonian Canal!

BEEP BEEP BEEP! The 6:30 am alarm blared, dragging us abruptly from the depths of a Netflix-induced coma. We'd definitely stayed up far later than we should have, but there was no time for regrets – a flurry of activity awaited before our 8 am appointment at the fuel pontoon. It felt good to be moving again; a week in one place, especially one as... functional as Inverness Marina, was quite enough! After topping up Halcyon Sea's tank, we eased her over to a spare pontoon. Our slot to enter the sea lock at Clachnaharry wasn't until 9:30 am, a mere 20-minute cruise away. For once, the weather forecast was spot on: glorious sunshine and light winds, absolutely perfect for our inaugural steps into the canal.

As we exited the marina, we crossed to the other side of the water, rounding the Northerly cardinal to port, and wow, what a view! The water lay flat calm, a perfect mirror reflecting the fluffy clouds and the majestic hills that cradled it. We spotted a vessel departing the sea lock – our cue! Tracey, taking the helm of the radio for the first time (usually Nick's domain!), confidently hailed on Channel 74, requesting permission to enter. Permission granted! The water in the lock was low, signaling that this first section of the canal would involve a series of ascents. Tracey, ever wary of her throwing arm (a skill that, even in school, remained stubbornly elusive), used the boat hook to hand our bow line to the lock keeper, who deftly secured it to the shore cleat. Nick, with his practiced aim, threw the stern line up, and just like that, we were ready. Another boat entered behind us, and the lock keeper repeated the process for them. Without further delay, the chamber began to fill, and Halcyon Sea started her gentle rise, both of us diligently taking up the slack on our respective lines.

As we reached the top, the lock keeper retreated to his "office" and returned, not with a bill, but with our official canal license, a paper copy of the Skippers Guide to the Caledonian Canal, and our all-important key for the toilets and showers along the route. This vital piece of kit was handed directly to Tracey, "the sensible one" (haha!). The gates then swung open, revealing the narrow, tree-lined banks of the canal stretching before us like a verdant ribbon. The first lock was done, the first of eight we would conquer today!

Bridges, Bargains, and Brawn at the Muirtown Flight

Next came the Railway swing bridge, leading directly into the Clachnaharry Works Lock. This second lock was a breeze, and as we reached the top, a number of locals were out walking their dogs. Everyone offered a cheerful "good morning," and Pepper, not to be outdone, made her presence known with a series of enthusiastic barks. She was behaving impeccably, peering over the side of the seat at Tracey, ensuring her human hadn't mysteriously vanished from the bow.

After the second lock, a short distance brought us to Seaport Marina. We pulled onto the waiting pontoons and radioed for the bridge timings – this was our designated stop to pick up the week's groceries. The first bridge opening was at 11:40 am, with the next at 1:20 pm. It was a tight squeeze for the earlier slot, and getting the shopping was essential, so we opted for the latter, taking the pressure off.

Tracey set off, armed with bags and the trusty shopping trolley. It was only a five-minute walk from the marina to the retail park, so not far at all. She zipped around Lidl, gathering items from her list, but once paid, a familiar dread set in: there was no way she could get all this back to the boat alone, and she still had to visit the Co-Op for the remaining items! A quick call to Nick, who, with Pepper in tow, walked round to assist. After reaching the boat, we had about an hour before the bridge opening, so we stowed the groceries and enjoyed a leisurely lunch. The boat that had shared the first locks with us had already gone ahead, and now a Dutch boat would be joining us for the next set.

We called the lock keeper, confirming our readiness, and it wasn't long before the familiar beeping sirens heralded the stopping of traffic. We were about to enter another swing bridge that led straight into the Muirtown Flight – a magnificent set of five locks. And then we were off! Through the bridge and into the first chamber. The action here was the same as the previous locks, but as we reached the top, we were informed that one of us needed to get off the boat and pull Halcyon Sea through the next four chambers. Nick bravely volunteered, jumping off and pulling the boat into Chamber 2 while Tracey kept a watchful eye on the lines and steered to keep her away from the wall. After Chamber 2, Tracey and Nick swapped places, and Tracey took her turn helping to pull the boat through the remaining chambers. This arrangement worked better, at least for Tracey, and Nick was happy to go with whatever was easiest. We had made it through the flight, with only one more lock to go today, though a couple of swing bridges still lay ahead.

Bridge Malfunctions and Highland Cows

Tomnahurich and Torvean swing bridges are positioned close together. The operators are already alerted to your approach by the previous lock keepers, and you then call them as you draw near so they can close the roads. The procedure involves entering the first bridge, waiting in the area, and then proceeding through the next. We were the lead boat and cleared the first bridge without issue. However, as the Dutch boat followed us in, they clearly weren't close enough, and the bridge began to swing shut while they were only halfway through! We waited in the designated area, expecting the second bridge to open almost immediately, but it seemed to be experiencing a malfunction. Although the barriers had come down to prevent cars, and we could see the bridge had been released, it simply refused to open, emitting all sorts of clunking noises. The wind, as is customary for us, had picked up, and we began to be pushed towards the bank. Nick had to apply a little reverse thrust to prevent us from getting too close to the bridge. Finally, and to much relief, it swung open, and we zipped through as quickly as possible.

We continued through the narrow canal, reaching Dochgarroch Lock, our last of the day. Once we had passed through, we decided to moor up on the available pontoons here. Conveniently, toilet and shower facilities, along with electricity, were available. Once alongside, Tracey got Pepper off the boat for a well-deserved walk while Nick secured Halcyon Sea for the evening. The Dutch boat, having more miles to cover, continued onwards into Loch Ness.

Dochgarroch itself is a small, charming spot, offering a cafe, an ice-cream parlour, and a gift shop. However, its true highlight is a field containing three magnificent Highland cows. It was amusing to watch busloads of tourists literally running up the hill just to catch a glimpse of them. It served as a wonderful reminder of how privileged we are to experience all of this at our own pace.

Tomorrow promises a day free of swing bridges or locks as we finally enter Loch Ness. We have no exact plan yet, though the weather forecast suggests rain. Our canal license grants us seven days to travel from Inverness to Corpach. During that time, we will navigate through 29 locks and 11 swing bridges. Today, we completed eight locks and four swing bridges, yet we haven't travelled very far at all. Most people complete the canal in about 4-5 days, but with no time restrictions, we intend to make full use of our seven-day license.En savoir plus