Dolphin Dances & Anchoring Adventures

From Tobermory to Coll: Dolphin Dances, Anchoring Adventures, and Island Castles!

"Yeah, the sun is back, and we are on the move!" Today's journey was taking us from Tobermory, around Mull, with the plan to pick up a mooring buoy in Loch Eatharna on Coll. Once again, we needed fuel before departing, and we also needed to top up the boat with water, as we wouldn't be alongside or plugged in for a few days. After sorting Halcyon Sea out, we departed Tobermory, having, to our slight chagrin, forgotten to spread Jack's ashes (our dearly departed Jack Russell, who sadly went over the rainbow bridge last year). I'm sure subconsciously, it just wasn't the right time. For the first time since we left Portsmouth in April, the waters were teeming with boats – what an amazing sight to behold! We turned left into the Inner Seas and pointed our bow towards Coll. The sails were up, and we were doing a very gentle 3 knots, but we were in no real hurry. We spotted a few splashes in the distance, but they were too far for us to determine what they were.

Damon and Elaine, on Ionara, caught up with us and led the way. As they overtook, a splash appeared, much closer this time. We kept watching, and there it was – yes, once again, we were being accompanied by a pod of dolphins! The difference this time was that the water was so incredibly clear, we could see them perfectly. They played on our bow, switching from side to side, one even performing somersaults in the water, flashing his white belly. It was a truly beautiful sight, and we won't apologize for saying it again, but one can never tire of this experience. When they swim with you, it brings a calm, peace, and reassurance that is simply indescribable. Elated, we continued, the wind had picked up nicely, and we were now sailing along at a brisk 6.5 to 7.3 knots. The previous few months of effort had all been worth it; this was truly magnificent and everything we had imagined this adventure would be.

Breachacha Bay: A First Anchorage and Historic Strongholds

Ionara, Damon and Elaine's boat, reached our intended destination, Loch Eatharna, ahead of us, but unfortunately, it was full. We were going to have to continue. We carried on around Coll for about another hour until we reached a stunning anchorage called Breachacha. Ionara set its anchor, and we shortly followed alongside them. This was to be our very first experience of anchoring overnight together. Was it going to bring us a sleepless night?

Nick inflated our recently repaired dinghy and placed the engine on the back. Pepper was desperate to be on land and do her business. We all went ashore, landing on a vast, unspoiled beach that we had entirely to ourselves. Pepper took full advantage, running all over the place with boundless energy. Nick waded into the water, knee-deep, and put Pepper in. She did a few tentative doggy paddles before bounding back to the beach – we're not sure she was that impressed! While we were on the beach, seven more boats had joined us in the anchorage; they were all vessels from the Royal Highland Yacht Club, continuing their "cruising in company" since leaving Loch Aline.

Breachacha Bay on the Isle of Coll is not only a beautiful anchorage but also a site of significant historical interest, dominated by two castles of the same name. Breachacha Castle (Old), a ruined 15th-century tower house, stands prominently near the shore. It was the ancestral seat of the Macleans of Coll and played a role in the island's clan history. Further inland, overlooking the bay, is Breachacha Castle (New), a more modern, imposing mansion built in the 18th century. This newer castle, still privately owned, offers a striking contrast to the ancient ruins, symbolizing the evolving architectural styles and fortunes of the island's landowners.

After a while, we headed back to Halcyon Sea, making a quick stop on Ionara for a refreshing drink on the way. We returned to our boat and cooked dinner. Nick took Pepper ashore again before bedtime, but this time, she showed a remarkable new confidence: she jumped out of the dinghy into the shallow water at the shoreline and, once ready to come back, jumped back into the dinghy herself! This was a fantastic sign; she was clearly becoming more confident in the water. We had a fairly restless night, with Nick rising a couple of times to check that we had not drifted. He had also wisely set an anchor alarm and a tracker, so we had done everything we could to stay safe. All was fine, though, and our anchor was holding well.

The next morning, Pepper woke early, shaking – she needed a wee, but Tracey wasn't keen on taking the dinghy by herself in the early morning chill. Instead, we paced up and down the deck with Pepper on her lead, trying to encourage her to go. Just as we were about to give in, she did it! Yay, finally! This will make anchoring so much easier for us in the future. The plan for today is to go back to Loch Eatharna to see if we can get a mooring buoy there. Fingers crossed we make it!Leer más