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- Day 99
- Wednesday, July 16, 2025
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
ScotlandArinagour56°37’3” N 6°31’13” W
Sunshine and a Dinghy Disaster

Sunshine, Serenity, and a Dinghy Disaster!
We made it back to Loch Eatharna, and thankfully, there were a few mooring buoys available. This time, we had opted to tow the dinghy behind us, saving the effort of hoisting it back onto the deck and then redeploying it. The trip was only about an hour long. We picked up our mooring buoy on the first attempt, much to our relief, especially Tracey's, who was not keen on the jellyfish floating around us! We then settled ourselves down in the glorious sunshine – another wonderfully bright day. The water here was incredibly clear and blue, a stunning contrast to the often-barren landscape of the island itself.
We had a reservation at the Coll Hotel for lunch at 1 pm, and Ionara was busy trying to get their dinghy ready to go ashore. Unfortunately, they experienced some engine issues, so we agreed to tow them, not trusting our own dinghy to take four adults and two dogs. We managed to get ashore and tied the dinghies up alongside Arinagour Pier, then walked along what the locals call "the high street" to the hotel. This is certainly not like the bustling high streets we know; it's a small, narrow lane lined with a few charming cottages, some converted into Air BnBs. There's a small cafe, a fuel station and a shop that are open at odd hours, a fire station housing a really old fire truck, and the hotel itself. The island only has about 250 permanent residents.
Coll: A Dark Sky Sanctuary and Avian Haven
Coll is a truly special island in the Inner Hebrides, renowned for its remote beauty and commitment to preserving its natural environment. It holds the distinction of being Scotland's first Dark Sky Island, accredited by the International Dark-Sky Association. This means its minimal light pollution offers exceptionally clear views of the night sky, making it a paradise for stargazers. Its relatively flat, low-lying topography, compared to its mountainous neighbours, contributes to these open skies.
The island is also a significant haven for wildlife, particularly birds. It's home to a large population of corncrakes, one of the rarest and most elusive birds in the UK, whose distinctive "crex-crex" call can be heard in the summer months. Large areas of Coll are designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) due to their unique machair grasslands – a fertile, shell-sand plain found only on the west coasts of Scotland and Ireland – and its importance for breeding waders and other ground-nesting birds. The island's tranquil atmosphere, stunning beaches, and rich biodiversity make it a truly unique destination.
We enjoyed a wonderful lunch before returning to Halcyon Sea to soak up the day's remaining sun. What a wonderfully chilled day we were having!
Then came the time to take Pepper ashore again, only the floor in the dinghy seemed to have deflated. Nick got in anyway, but by the time he had returned, the dinghy had started to deflate again on the repair side. Another pair of shoes was soaked, and Tracey had lost all faith in the tender, vowing not to use it again. It was at this point that Nick informed Tracey that the dinghy had come with the boat and was over 15 years old, having been second-hand when he purchased the boat. Time for a new one!
We had a rolly night on the buoy and were woken at about 3 am by the buoy banging on the side of the boat as it turned with the tide and went slack for a short time. We had an early start tomorrow as we were moving onto Salen in Loch Sunart, and we have to lift the dinghy out of the water and stow it for the journey. So, our alarm was set for 6:30 am. We are really looking forward to seeing what delights this new location holds for us!Read more