From Arinagour to Salen

From Arinagour to Salen: A Dinghy's Demise and the Serenity of Loch Sunart!

Wow, what a busy morning we had! Nick made one last journey ashore with Pepper in our trusty dinghy, which, after years of loyal service, has finally given up the ghost. We still had the task of removing its engine and hoisting the deflated carcass back on board. With that done, we tidied up Halcyon Sea, completing our preparations for what we hoped would be a glorious sailing day. We slipped from our mooring buoy, expertly navigated through the surrounding rocks, and emerged back into the Inner Seas. Our destination today: Salen, nestled deep within the tranquil waters of Loch Sunart.

We sailed with just our genoa up, effortlessly eating up the miles in the good wind that accompanied us. Having departed early, Nick, ever the thoughtful chef, whipped up some delicious bacon sandwiches on the move – a very welcome treat! With the wind and the lack of direct sun, the sea looked far darker than it had when the dolphins graced us with their presence just a few days ago, and today, they were nowhere to be spotted. To our right, the familiar colourful houses of Tobermory receded into the distance, but this time, we were heading into Loch Sunart, a new and unexplored territory for us both.

Loch Sunart's Charms and Historic Shores

The loch was relatively narrow, and the surrounding hills and rocky islands each looked unique, adorned with their own distinct flora and varying shades of green. On our left, we passed Glenborrodale Castle, an imposing red sandstone baronial mansion built in 1902. This grand residence was originally constructed as accommodation for the guests of Mr. C.D. Rudd, the wealthy owner of the entire Ardnamurchan peninsula. Mr. Rudd, a significant figure in the area, also built most of the stone Victorian buildings on the peninsula, including the Salen Hotel. He was also the proud owner of the 600-ton steam yacht Mingary, which was famously moored in Salen Bay and was said to cost more to run than the entire estate itself!

On our right, we passed the Isle of Carna. This beautiful island now has no permanent residents, though it once supported a community of eighteen families. Today, you can even rent holiday accommodation on the island, offering a unique escape. It took us about two hours, meandering through the loch's winding passages, before we turned into Salen to moor up at Salen Jetty. The jetty itself has a history, built in 1832 at a cost of £464. In its heyday, steam puffers used the jetty to bring in goods and transport livestock. During the Second World War, Salen Bay was utilized for warships and Special Operations training. A poignant reminder of this history is a large steel buoy in the jetty car park, visibly marked with bullet holes from an American Catalina seaplane. There aren't many berths here, and the jetty is now run by Jan and Mark, who also own the charming little shop in the carpark, which doubles as a cafe. For such a remote location, the shop was incredibly well-stocked, and the prices were surprisingly good too!

It was wonderful to be back on a berth with electric and water; it certainly made cooking far easier.

Woodland Walks, Emotional Moments, and a Dinghy Farewell

The wind picked up during the night, and the next morning, we had the inevitable discussion: should we leave for Loch Spelve or stay put? We opted to stay put, as going to Loch Spelve would mean a night at anchor, and without a functioning dinghy, getting Pepper ashore would be impossible.

Today, July 18th, marked what would have been Jack's 15th birthday, and Tracey was feeling a little emotional. She decided to take Pepper for a walk on one of the trails kindly provided by Jan when we paid for our berth. They walked up past the hotel and out onto the main road. The road to the hotel was a single-track lane with no pathway, so keeping an eager Pepper under control was a little challenging; there were so many new smells tickling her senses! A short way up the main road, Tracey spotted the little woodland track indicated on the paper. They crossed the road and headed up the hills, winding through the trees. The towering trees created a canopy above the mossy floor, and huge rocks shaped the side of the pathway. They reached a small bridge that sat over a large pond – the opening was truly picturesque. However, various paths led off in different directions, and Tracey felt a surge of concern that she might get lost. Being afraid of the dark and finding herself in what felt like the wilderness alone, Tracey felt her heart rate quicken and realised she had to get out of there before having a full-blown panic attack. It seems so irrational, but in the heat of the moment, Tracey's imagination can run riot. (That and the fact she kept hearing Salem instead of Salen in her head didn’t help)! She quickly found the route back to the main road, practically dragging Pepper along, who was most miffed as she was in her element, snuffling through the undergrowth.

They made their way back to the boat, where Nick had rolled up the dead dinghy and returned the bikes to their cabin to be stowed. Just then, Tracey spotted something crawling on Pepper – she had collected her first tick! Fortunately, after what felt like a major operation trying to keep Pepper still, we managed to extract the pesky bugger. We had a relaxing evening, cooking onboard and watching a movie. Our next stop is Craobh Haven. This will take us about eight hours to reach, and we need to get the tides through the Cuan Sound right. Loch Sunart and Salen had been beautiful, and we will definitely return to explore the loch further.Les mer