• HalcyonSea_Adventures
  • Nick Miller
Reiser for tiden
apr. – aug. 2025

UK Circumnavigation 2025

After 10 years of talking about it, we are finally setting sail to begin our anticlockwise circumnavigation of the UK. Starting in Gosport and heading to Cowes for a practice run, we have begun our journey.
Let the adventures begin!
Les mer
  • Dolphins, Docks, and a Mini Disaster

    9. juni, England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Departing Sunderland: Dolphins, Docks, and a Day of Mixed Fortunes

    Once our Tesco delivery arrived and all the provisions were stowed, Nick made the decision to continue our journey from Sunderland. The instruments showed a mere 0.3 meters under the keel, giving us about an hour for the tide to rise sufficiently for a comfortable departure. The sky was overcast, but the sea was calm with a gentle breeze. If we motored, the next leg of our journey would be a quick hour and a half. Tracey had put in a special request for dolphins, as they'd been spotted in the harbor the day before.

    We slipped out of the marina with ease, heading for the open sea. No sooner had we cleared the end of the piers than Tracey's wish was granted! Nick spotted a splash ahead, and Tracey raced to the bow, camera poised. At first, it seemed she'd missed them, but then a small pod of dolphins began breaching and playing alongside Halcyon Sea. Though they were heading into the harbor and didn't stay long, the mere sight was utterly magical and incredibly uplifting, filling us with renewed enthusiasm for the sea.

    Tyne Transit and a Tricky Tie-Up

    Grins plastered on our faces, we continued our journey. It would have been easy to motor, but we unfurled the genoa, cut the engine, and glided through the water under sail. Our speed was a leisurely 2-3 knots, but there was no rush; Royal Quays Marina accepts boats at any state of tide. We simply enjoyed the coastal views, navigating only the occasional fishing buoy that snuck up on us.

    As we neared the entrance to the Tyne, we dropped sail and restarted the engine, then radioed Tyne VTS to inform them of our intentions to enter the river and proceed to the marina. Permission was swiftly granted. The Tyne is a bustling commercial port, accustomed to large vessels, but we were informed there were no planned movements during our transit. We made our way to Royal Quays Marina, turning to starboard to enter the lock. Here, you tie up on the starboard side, with no lines on the port, and the lock operates quarter to and quarter past the hour. We were the only boat entering, and having arrived at high tide, the marina staff kindly opened the lock for us slightly ahead of schedule.

    Once inside and tied up, a marina staff member approached, map in hand, to show us our designated berth and offered to meet us there to help with lines – a thoughtful gesture, we believed! However, as the lock gates opened and we tried to proceed, the wind pressed us firmly against the side of the lock, raising concerns about our solar panel. Nick expertly used the fenders to push off the wall, creating just enough space to move forward out of the lock.

    Making our way around the marina we turned up between pontoons E & D where we saw the helpful staff member waiting at our designated spot. We have a well-rehearsed routine for coming alongside; we know our roles and anticipate each other's moves, making even tricky conditions manageable. Unfortunately, the marina had allocated us a berth where the wind was blowing us away from the pontoon – not ideal, especially with plenty of easier spots available. The man asked for our bow line (usually Tracey's job), and she handed it over, but being out of our usual routine, she was momentarily unsure where Nick needed her next. Nick asked her to take the stern line, but by the time she moved, the stern was too far from the pontoon to reach. Unhelpfully, the man then started shouting, "You're going to hit the pontoon!" Nick remained calm, explaining his plan: "Don't worry, I'm going to use the pontoon and put some forward thrust on, which will bring the back end of the boat in." The man, however, seemed to ignore this, pushing the bow away from the pontoon. With the bow line already fixed, the boat began to swing uncontrollably. The bow ultimately nudged into a corner of the pontoon where, instead of wood, there was a metal plate – another contact. The man then suggested taking our spring line, which Tracey handed to him. As this wasn't part of our routine, the spring wasn't tightly secured to the boat, and the man managed to pull the entire rope off. Tracey, tears welling, felt a surge of panic. Eventually, we managed to get Halcyon Sea alongside, and the well-meaning but ultimately unhelpful staff member departed, leaving us to survey the minor damage. We'd "kissed" the pontoon again, and the bow would need a rub down and recoating – nothing major, but the whole scenario significantly dented Tracey's confidence.

    We headed to the marina cafe for something to eat. Tracey, still visibly upset, was ready to call it a day. The incident, combined with a touch of homesickness, was truly taking its toll. We discussed the situation, questioning if we could have done anything differently, always aiming to learn from our experiences. Our conclusion was that without the external intervention, the docking would likely have been far less complicated – hindsight, as they say, is 20/20. We've decided that in the future, we'll politely request staff to simply stand by in case of genuine need, but otherwise allow us to handle our own mooring.

    We plan to spend at least a couple of days here, as we still have a mountain of washing to conquer. We've also arranged to meet up with Tareena and Darren, and Nick's son, Olly, for Father's Day on Sunday. Looking at the weather, Wednesday seems like a good day for our next move, but we'll keep a close eye on the forecast. If not then, we'll likely stay here until after the weekend.
    Les mer

  • Sunderland: A Warm Welcome & Hidden Gems

    7.–8. jun., England ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Sunderland: A Warm Welcome and Hidden Gems!

    Our first day in Sunderland started quietly, but a touch of homesickness crept in for Tracey – a feeling of distance from home and familiar faces. Pepper, sensing the mood, enjoyed an extra-long morning walk as Tracey processed her thoughts. Luckily, the sun graced us with its presence, temporarily dispelling the predicted rain and brightening the mood considerably. Back on board, Tracey diligently caught up on the blog and edited photos and videos to share. We also secured a Tesco delivery for Monday, the earliest slot available. Dinner called, and with little knowledge of the local culinary scene beyond a few spots on Roker Beach, we ventured out. Our first stop, The Harbour View pub, was bustling with lively groups – a promising sign! However, they didn't serve food, so we ambled down the road to The Wolsey. Here, silence reigned; the place was almost empty and completely devoid of atmosphere. After ordering drinks, the barman casually informed us food service had stopped at 7 pm, an hour prior. A quick call from Nick secured a table at the Marina Vista, a restaurant boasting prime views from the top floor of the marina building. We promptly downed our drinks and headed over. The Marina Vista was buzzing with energy, several birthday parties adding to the lively ambiance. The staff were wonderfully friendly and helpful, and we soon found ourselves at a table, enjoying a bottle of wine with our dinner ordered. The food was really good – a definite recommendation for any visitors – and we rounded off the meal with a couple of Limoncellos. It was precisely what we needed: a night out for ourselves, with Pepper safely tucked away in her crate back on the boat. We returned, vowing that tomorrow would be a day of wider exploration.

    Exploring Sunderland's Charms

    Sunday arrived, bringing with it glorious sunshine and, even better, a significant drop in wind. We woke to a pleasant surprise: messages on Facebook from locals who had seen our Limoncello post the previous night, extending a warm welcome to Sunderland and offering fantastic suggestions for our day. Our first mission: breakfast at Grannie Annie's, located on the seafront where Pepper had enjoyed her beach run. We decided to let the locals guide our day, as much as possible. Grannie Annie's delivered a good, reasonably priced breakfast, and they were wonderfully dog-friendly. Afterward, Pepper had another chance to zoom around on the beach as we slowly made our way back towards the marina.

    Next, Nick was keen to visit the RNA (Royal Navy Association) club, which he knew was nearby. We headed away from the marina and seemed to walk for ages down Roker Avenue in search of the club. Nick had phoned ahead to ensure Pepper was allowed, but upon arrival, we were initially told no dogs were permitted. Thankfully, the lady spoke to someone else who granted us entry, with the caveat that we'd need to leave by 2 pm. As it was just past noon, we paid our 50p entrance fee and went in. The large bar and lounge area was surprisingly quiet, save for a couple of gentlemen at one table. They had a TV advertising upcoming events, with dates stretching to November 2026, featuring numerous tribute bands and music nights. We couldn't fathom why it was so empty. Soon, a few more people arrived, two gentlemen who both made a delightful fuss of Pepper, which she naturally adored. We spent a while chatting, and they told us about other sights, including St. Peter's Church near the National Glass Centre, another spot worth visiting. They also pointed out the iconic red and white striped Roker Pier Lighthouse at the harbour entrance. Completed in 1903 after over 18 years of construction, the pier and its sister, New South Pier, were built at the height of Sunderland's shipbuilding prowess to protect the vital harbour docks and shipping. The pier features a tunnel running its entire half-mile length, once the only way for the keeper to reach the lighthouse in stormy weather. Though the lighthouse keeper role ended in the 1970s and the lighthouse suffered vandalism, Sunderland City Council began painstaking restoration in 2012. Tours through the tunnels and up to the restored lighthouse are currently halted due to storm damage in 2023, but repairs are underway, with hopes of resuming tours within the next 12-16 weeks. It was a shame not to visit, but learning about its history was fascinating. By the way, Pepper did us proud and was so good, the lady said that we didn’t need to leave.

    Hidden Wonders and Yacht Club Hospitality

    After a few drinks at the RNA club, we decided to search for another intriguing suggestion from Facebook: the North Dock Tufa. This proved to be one of those little gems hidden right under our noses, easily missed without local knowledge. It's not signposted, but it lies literally behind the Marina Activities Centre. You find it by entering the Marina Centre, turning left, and exiting through the next door. What awaits is a fascinating display of calcite stalactites and stalagmites, formed over centuries by dripping water. It's widely believed to have been discovered in 1992 during the marina's development, when old fishing huts were removed, though some locals claim to have known about it long before. It's particularly renowned for its beauty when illuminated at night. It was truly a testament to the power of social media for uncovering local treasures!

    Having explored the Tufa, we then made our way to the Sunderland Yacht Club. The club building stands separately from the marina, boasting its own moorings and yard. We weren't sure if it would be open, but we'd chatted with a couple of members earlier who were heading out racing. After knocking and pressing a few buttons at the entrance, a friendly lady appeared. We explained we were visiting yachtsmen hoping for a drink, and she readily invited us in, even asking a group of members to make space at their table for us. We joined them, learning a little of the club's history – how their original building had been compulsory purchased for the surrounding estate, and how they'd secured grant funding for their impressive new building. It was incredibly spacious inside, with a purpose-built race office occupying the top floor. They run both yacht and dinghy racing out of the club. We couldn't have asked for a more hospitable welcome and were even given a Sunderland Yacht Club cap as a souvenir!

    After dodging yet another brief rain shower, we decided to head back to the boat, pretty exhausted from all the walking, but what a day it had been! A day that started with no real plan, transformed into an enriching experience, leaving us feeling incredibly welcomed and grateful for the time locals had spent sharing their knowledge. Too tired for more walking, and with our fridge looking bare awaiting the morning's Tesco delivery, we ordered a pizza delivery. Once eaten, we closed up the boat for the night, our tired limbs yearning for a well-deserved rest.
    Les mer

  • Whitby to Who Knows Where

    6. juni, England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Whitby to Who Knows Where: A Journey of Unexpected Turns!

    Our morning in Whitby began with a relaxed pace, preparing for an 11:30 am swing bridge opening. However, it was Nick's turn to feel a bit under the weather, achy and sensing a cold coming on. The morning weather wasn't ideal, but the forecast promised improvement later in the day. Our initial check suggested the rain would cease by 10:30 am. Tracey began stowing everything to ready the boat for sea, while Nick retreated to bed for a bit. The question lingered: would we actually leave today? At 10:30 am, the rain persisted, and Nick was only just stirring. It was a dilemma, but Tracey was ready to move on.

    Once Nick saw the boat was largely prepared, he found new motivation, perhaps not wanting to hold Tracey back. Nick got up, and together we packed away the cockpit tent and donned our full foul weather gear. The updated forecast now extended the rain until 11:30 am, not ideal, but we pressed on. We headed to the marina office to settle up, but it was empty. A minor panic set in: could we leave without paying, or would we be stopped at the bridge? We continued our preparations. Tracey made another attempt at the office – still no one. Other boats also gearing up for the 11:30 am bridge seemed to be waiting for us, even though they could have departed independently. Suddenly, the pressure mounted. With no time for further contemplation, we cast off, turned the boat around, and headed for the bridge. Four boats were departing: three heading south, and just us going north.

    A Change of Course and a Surprise Squall

    As predicted, the rain stopped the moment we cleared the bridge, and the wind began to ease as we left Whitby. However, with the tide against us and the wind, predictably, still on the nose, we quickly realized that making Hartlepool was unlikely. Nick tried increasing the engine's revs, but it made little difference to our speed. We agreed that Sunderland was the better option, and with the increased time on our side, a sense of calm returned, despite the prospect of a longer day than initially hoped.

    Heading north from Whitby, saw a dramatic increase in the amount of fishing buoys. We were no longer playing dodgems; this was a full-on game of fishing buoy battleships. Tracey took the helm, picking her way through the minefield of buoys.

    We hoisted the sails and cut the engine. Our change of course now brought the wind to a more favorable direction, allowing us to truly enjoy the sail without the pressure of a tight schedule. The sun broke through, tunes played, and we settled into a comfortable rhythm, enjoying the simple pleasure of sailing. When the wind eventually dropped, so did our speed, slowing to just 1.4 knots. We even managed to create a video documenting our unexpected change of plans for Facebook.

    But just as we'd settled in, a colossal storm cloud appeared on the horizon. It looked distant, and Nick altered our course, hoping to skirt its edge. A few minutes later, fierce gusts announced its arrival, the sky darkening ominously. The wind gauges soared to 30 knots – a brutal surprise not in the forecast!

    Immediate action was required. The boat heeled dramatically, her starboard gunwale kissing the water. It was time to reef, a decision we'd perhaps delayed a little too long. We quickly furled the headsail to reduce our canvas. Tracey then took the helm, steadying the boat while Nick efficiently worked the lines to put in not just one reef, but two. The boat bucked and rolled violently, and we found ourselves pushed off course. We wrestled with Halcyon Sea, bringing her back onto our desired track as the wind continued to shift. This was a stark contrast to the easy sailing of just fifteen minutes prior. We were acutely reminded of nature's formidable power.

    Despite the chaos, we persevered. We successfully navigated around the back of the storm, which began to dissipate southwards. Ahead, milder seas and the reappearance of the sun offered a renewed sense of calm. We settled back into the rhythm, pushing towards our new destination.

    Sunderland Marina had advised us that entry was only possible before 7 pm or after 8 pm due to tidal constraints. Nick had recalculated our ETA, aiming for an 8 pm arrival. Tracey harboured a slight unease, preferring to wait a little longer for a more generous water depth, but Nick's assurance prevailed. We spotted the harbour entrance, carefully running our course adjacent to it to avoid surrounding rocks before finally pointing Halcyon Sea's bow inwards. Strangely, there were no visible masts or clear signs of a marina. We nudged cautiously into the River Wear, and then we saw it: a tall green and yellow post. The entrance was incredibly narrow, a tight squeeze between the posts. It was just past 8 pm, and the only thought was to get in without incident.

    Slowly, very slowly, we inched between the posts. With only 0.4meters underneath our keel we were nervous. Our designated berth, D17, was supposedly straight ahead, but the marina seemed filled with much smaller fishing vessels. A flicker of concern crossed Tracey's mind. D17, the only double berth available, had notably short pontoons. It turned out Sunderland Marina's maximum length is 40 feet, putting us right at the limit. Very carefully, Nick eased Halcyon Sea into the berth, our mast standing significantly taller than any other. It had been a day of diverse challenges, a firm reminder of the need for constant vigilance at sea.

    Once the boat was secured, Tracey led Pepper to the nearby beach we'd spotted on our approach. It was Pepper's second time on sand, and with no other dogs in sight, she unleashed a joyful explosion of energy, running in circles and enthusiastically sniffing everything in sight. She's a true joy to have along, and watching her discover the world is a blessing. After a pasta and sauce supper that Nick prepared whilst Tracey was out, we called it a day. We will sit here whilst the next weather front passes and hope to move on again early next week.
    Les mer

  • Whitby Wonders

    3.–6. jun., England ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Whitby Wonders: Abbey Heights, Sandy Delights, and a Goth-Rocking Night!

    Tuesday dawned in Whitby, a truly glorious day! The sun beat down, chasing away any lingering sea mist, and Tracey, ever the explorer, was determined to find a new walking adventure for Pepper. Instead of heading towards the bustling town centre from the marina, they ventured in the opposite direction, discovering a charming footpath that ran alongside the railway tracks. Pepper, a furry blur of excitement, sniffed and explored every inch of shrubbery, her tail wagging happily. Aside from a few morning runners and a couple of determined cyclists (at whom Pepper, naturally, felt compelled to bark and growl with gusto), it was a wonderfully peaceful stroll. The path led them along the meandering River Esk, under a grand viaduct, all the way to the quaint village of Ruswarp. On the return journey, the views of Whitby Abbey, perched majestically high above the town, were simply breathtaking.

    Later, all three of us headed into the town proper, making a beeline for the end of the pier and searching out some of the highly-recommended local eateries. But first, a detour for our four-legged crewmate! We took Pepper down to one of the designated dog-friendly beaches, and being the only canine on the sandy expanse, she had an absolute blast! Zooming around with unbridled joy, this was her very first encounter with sand – all our previous beach visits had been disappointingly pebbly. She dug with wild abandon, quickly learning that while sand was fun to displace, it wasn't quite as delicious as she might have hoped. Tracey, feeling a little under the weather, opted for a quiet afternoon pottering around the boat, followed by a home-cooked dinner onboard and a relatively early night.

    Conquering Abbey Steps and a Pint with a View

    Wednesday arrived, and much to our relief, Tracey was feeling significantly better. We'd admired Whitby Abbey from afar, but today was the day we would finally ascend to its hallowed ground. Whitby, as anyone who's visited will attest, is notoriously hilly. When Nick spotted the sign declaring "199 steps to the top," his initial enthusiasm waned slightly, but the promise of a well-deserved pint in the pub at the end ultimately sealed the deal.

    The Abbey, a magnificent ruin, is lovingly cared for by English Heritage. The entry fee was £9, which isn't much, but with Pepper in tow, our access would be restricted. So, we decided to save our pennies and instead focused on capturing the outside of the Abbey up close. And we were certainly not disappointed! These ruins are, without a doubt, among the most celebrated sights in North Yorkshire. The first monastery here, founded around 657 AD, blossomed into one of the most significant religious centers in the Anglo-Saxon world. In 664 AD, it famously hosted the Synod of Whitby, a landmark moment in the history of the Church in England. The haunting remains we see today are the shell of the 13th-century church of the Benedictine Abbey, established after the Norman Conquest. The views from the hilltop were utterly stunning, allowing us to gaze for miles down the coastline, both North and South.

    Once we'd soaked up enough history and breathtaking vistas, we ambled back down the hill and straight into the promised pub. With panoramic views of the harbour entrance and the sun streaming through the windows, it was the perfect spot for a well-earned pit stop. We ambled around town for a bit longer before heading back to the boat, our stomachs rumbling with the promise of a quintessential seaside treat: fish and chips from the legendary Magpie Cafe, which had come highly recommended.

    Fish and Chips, a Singing Sailor, and Goth Surprises!

    Just as we were leaving the boat to collect our eagerly anticipated supper, one of our neighbours from the pontoon stopped us. "I'll be singing and playing guitar in one of the pubs up the hill later!" he announced. Intrigued, we mentally filed that away. Our fish and chips from the Magpie were… fine. They were okay, but if we're honest, we've definitely had better. After devouring our meal, we took Pepper back to the boat, settled her into her crate, and headed back up the hill to The Little Angel pub.

    And there he was – Mark, our neighbour, singing away! And he was really good. Perhaps we shouldn't have been so surprised, but you just never know what hidden talents lurk in the marina next door. It turned out Mark had studied music at university and even taught it for a while. His first love was percussion, but as he dryly explained, "It's a bit difficult to get a gig as a solo drummer!" The pub had an area cordoned off for a birthday party, and just as Mark was mid-song, a large group of Goths made a grand entrance. Whitby's deep connection to Bram Stoker's Dracula lends itself perfectly to its gothic appeal, and the town famously hosts the twice-yearly Whitby Goth Weekend, attracting thousands of enthusiasts. We'd missed the first festival of the year (they are held in April and October), but the town's many gift shops dedicated to goth culture were a testament to its enduring influence. Later, one of the ladies from the birthday party graciously brought cakes around, offering them to everyone in the pub. It was a truly great evening, filled with unexpected charm and excellent music.

    Dodging Raindrops and Passage Planning Perils

    Thursday was spent in a constant game of "dodge the raindrops." Tracey, completed the recovering of the other steering wheel – another job triumphantly checked off the list! Nick, meanwhile, dedicated his time to cleaning the sprayhood and polishing the boat's stanchions. We cooked onboard and spent a cozy afternoon in the cockpit, playing cards, plotting our next move.

    We had decided to leave Whitby on Friday. Our intended destination was Hartlepool, but the timing was looking incredibly tight. We couldn't leave Whitby until the first swing bridge opening at 11:30 am, which would give us enough water to clear the marina. The problem lay with Hartlepool: we needed to arrive at high water, meaning we couldn't be there any later than 4 pm. Our calculations put the journey at approximately four and a half hours, leaving absolutely no wriggle room for any unexpected weather delays. While our timings had been incredibly lucky so far, complacency was a luxury we couldn't afford. We needed a Plan B.

    Plan B involved pushing on an additional four hours to Sunderland. This would make the day a much longer one, certainly not what we ideally wanted, but safety is paramount. So, with both Plan A (Hartlepool) and Plan B (Sunderland) firmly in place, we watched the weather forecast. Let's see what tomorrow brings!
    Les mer

  • Scarborough to Whitby

    2. juni, England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Scarborough to Whitby: A Race Against the Clock, a Dance with the Elements, and a Pint with New Friends!

    BEEP BEEP BEEP! The alarm blared at 5 am, ripping us from the depths of sleep. As our senses slowly awakened, the howl of the wind and the insistent drumming of heavy rain against the deck assaulted our ears. This was not the gentle start we'd hoped for. Nevertheless, we had to push on, or risk being stranded in Scarborough until the next elusive weather window. We constantly remind ourselves that this is our journey, on our timeline; if we choose to wait for calmer conditions, that's perfectly acceptable. It's a mantra that works for us. But today, we were going.

    The voyage to Whitby was estimated at a brisk three and a half hours. Our crucial deadline: arriving within two hours either side of high water to access the swing bridge that would grant us passage to the marina. Miss that window, and we'd be relegated to a temporary pontoon before the bridge, unable to leave the boat – an option we were determined to avoid. The challenge was compounded by the need to depart Scarborough at high water, as the Commodore had warned us both ports were heavily silted and in desperate need of dredging.

    We pulled on our foul-weather gear. Tracey, feeling like the Michelin Man in her many layers, was determined not to let the cold seep in. Nick prepared the lines for our departure; it was going to be a tricky one. Our berth was incredibly tight, and the Commodore's speedboat loomed precariously close. We talked through the plan, ensuring every step was clear – we had only one shot at this. Before casting off, Nick called Scarborough Port Control to check the depth. A wave of relief washed over us: 3.7 meters at the harbour entrance, much higher than expected, and we had a comfortable 2.3 meters under our keel in the berth.

    We eased ourselves backward out of our spot, Tracey poised with a roving fender, ready to deflect any unwanted bumps. The gods, it seemed, were smiling on us; the wind mysteriously vanished, making our tricky departure significantly smoother. We executed a flawless 180-degree reverse into another empty berth, then swung the wheel and throttled forward, gracefully navigating around the pylons and towards the harbour entrance. A sandbar lay in wait at the entrance, so we followed the advice to cross and hug the port-side wall. Without any real fuss, we were finally on our way, leaving Scarborough's challenging embrace behind us.

    The sun's rays valiantly pierced through the cloudy sky to our right, but ahead, the cloud cover was thick, and the wind, inevitably, was on the nose. We were in a race against the tide, battling to reach our destination on schedule, so the engine remained steadfastly on (seriously, at this rate, we should have bought a motorboat!). The silhouette of Scarborough Castle, sitting high on its hill, slowly faded into the distance as we continued up the coastline. Aside from a lone fishing boat hugging the shore, we were out there on our own, a tiny vessel in a vast expanse. Once again, it was a game of dodging fishing buoys while trying to maintain our track. The green, rolling coastline dipped and swayed alongside us, and occasional bursts of rain felt like tiny pinpricks on our faces. We felt alive, truly immersed in the hands of nature and all her elements, and thus far, she was being remarkably kind. A rain shower brought with it the ethereal beauty of a faint rainbow, its vibrant colours arcing in front of the cliffs and dipping into the sea. We passed Robin Hood's Bay, the bay itself empty, but we could clearly make out the narrow roadway appearing to spill directly into the waves.

    As we rounded the final headland, the haunting, majestic remains of Whitby Abbey dramatically presented themselves. Our eyes scoured the horizon for a Northerly cardinal marker – the crucial buoy that, once rounded to port, would lead us directly into Whitby harbour entrance. At 9:46 am, we radioed Whitby LPS (Local Port Services), requesting permission to enter the harbour and stating our intention to pass through the swing bridge into the marina. The swing bridge operates on the half-hour and hour during its four-hour high-water window. Whitby LPS advised they would open the bridge for us at 10 am. Perfect timing! No need for a stressful temporary mooring alongside. A shared smile crossed our faces; despite the challenging weather, this was already shaping up to be one of our favourite passages, for a whole host of reasons.

    Whitby Welcome and Unexpected Camaraderie
    The swing bridge obligingly opened before us, revealing the marina beyond. No one was manning the marina office, so we were simply asked to mill about in the marina basin and then take the berth currently occupied by another vessel, "Cherokee," who was due to leave for the 11 o'clock bridge opening. We had a little time to kill, so we circled patiently in the basin. Once Cherokee had vacated, we swiftly replaced her. And what a spot! No short fingers here, just a gloriously long pontoon with plenty of room. It felt like slipping into our old familiar berth in Gosport. Another leg conquered – woohoo!

    On the other side of our pontoon, a vessel named "Adele" was berthed. We remembered hearing her name called over the radio as we left Grimsby. The boat proudly flew a German flag, so we were pleasantly surprised when a very English voice hailed us. Martin and Stefan, it turned out, are also in the midst of their own UK circumnavigation, though their approach is slightly different, aiming for a rapid 3-4 month completion. We invited them aboard Halcyon Sea for drinks that evening. They arrived with the best of intentions – just one drink, as they were departing the next morning. However, our night ultimately came to an end around midnight, after more than "one beer" and a fair amount of rum had been consumed. We had a truly wonderful evening with them and genuinely hope to meet up again once we reach the west coast of Scotland. We'll certainly be following their progress on AIS. What a fantastic day all around. We are so very lucky!
    Les mer

  • A Quiet Day in Scarborough

    1. juni, England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Scarborough: Coastal Charm, Lighthouse Lunch, and a Date with a New Horizon!

    Our morning in Scarborough dawned with the familiar rhythm of Tracey taking Pepper for her first walk of the day. Tracey was up early, and the town was still cloaked in a peaceful quiet. The amusement arcades and the small funfair beside the marina were shuttered, and the bar on the marina wall hadn't yet roused itself to blare out music. It was wonderfully serene.

    Instead of heading into the South Bay, Tracey decided to explore the right side of the cliff, curious to see what lay beyond. As she and Pepper walked up the gentle incline, the views unfurled before them, nothing short of spectacular. They could clearly see the entrance to North Bay and the dramatic headland jutting out into the sea. The usual morning joggers and cyclists were out in full force – not Pepper's favourite, as she issued a series of barks and growls at all of them as they went past. A photographer stood patiently at the cliff edge, camera poised, waiting to capture that perfect moment as the Kittiwakes swooped and soared, returning to their high perches. Along the sea wall, information plaques were evenly spaced, offering intriguing snippets of Scarborough's history alongside details of the marine life thriving along this coastline. The walk, though breezy, allowed the sun to begin its brave attempt to break through, casting a pretty canvas for capturing some photos of the stunning scenery.

    Back on the boat, we decided that we would head to the Sailing Club for Sunday lunch. This charming club is housed within the very lighthouse building at the end of the pier. It was blustery and raining as we walked up but we can imagine the views on a clear day would be spectacular. The club members were incredibly welcoming and the food was outstanding – amazing value for money, too! Many of the members made a delightful fuss of Pepper, and the chef even saved her some leftover meat for her dinner. Their accommodating and hospitable nature was truly appreciated.

    After our delicious lunch, we opted for a walk up the steep but rewarding hill to the castle walls. It was too late in the day to go inside the castle itself, but the climb was manageable, and once again, the views from both sides of the hill did not disappoint. To the north, we could clearly see our planned route out for tomorrow's journey, and to the south, the entire coastline stretched back to Flamborough Head, revealing where we had come from. The landscape had transformed from the flat expanses we felt we'd been seeing for so long, now giving way to undulating green rolling hills. We were genuinely looking forward to venturing further up this changing coast. Nick, ever the connoisseur of seaside treats, popped into the small town to pick up some hot donuts – an absolute favourite for us when visiting the seaside!

    Later, the commodore of the club, whose speedboat was berthed next to us, returned from his day out, having given pleasure rides to tourists eager to see the coastline. We seized the opportunity to question him about our plan to move to Whitby the next day, asking for any tips or insights. He generously provided a wealth of useful advice, which either solidified what we had already painstakingly researched or added crucial new details to our passage plan. With a 5 am alarm set, we treated ourselves to a much-needed early night. The timing for our departure from Scarborough was critical: enough water in the harbour to leave comfortably, but also arriving in Whitby at high water to navigate the swing bridge into the marina – another new experience to anticipate.

    Let's see what tomorrow brings!
    Les mer

  • Grimsby to Scarborough

    31. mai, England ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Grimsby to Scarborough: A Race Against Time, a Sea of Surprises, and a Roaring Welcome!

    Finally, the day of departure from Grimsby had dawned! A shared eagerness buzzed between us; we were both more than ready to feel the familiar thrum of the boat beneath our feet and explore new horizons. The 7 am alarm was met with surprising enthusiasm, and we busied ourselves around Halcyon Sea. It felt distinctly more leisurely than usual – perhaps our overnight preparation skills are finally sharpening, or perhaps it was simply the glorious weather. A warm breeze caressed our faces, and the sea stretched out, invitingly calm. Just what the doctor ordered.

    We radioed Fish Dock on Channel 74, requesting permission to slip through the free-flow lock. High water was at 9:31 am, and the lock's generous two-hour window either side of high tide meant a seamless transit without the need for traditional penning. Then, another call, this time to Channel 14, seeking clearance to exit Fish Dock and venture into the Humber. Permission was granted, accompanied by a gentle nudge to switch to Channel 12. We took our mild reprimand in stride, swapped frequencies, and headed out, hugging the south side of the river to avoid the giants of commercial shipping.

    Our next crucial step was to cross the TSS (Traffic Separation Scheme). We called Humber VTS again. They informed us that three wind farm vessels were fast approaching from astern and that we should cross behind them. Oh, and by the way, we should now be on Channel 14. We accepted our second (and slightly more pointed) admonishment with good grace, waited for the massive catamarans to slice past us, and then made our move, heading north. A wave of relief washed over us; despite our radio channel missteps, we were safely out of the river entrance. As if on cue, a lone seal popped its head up next to the boat, its dark eyes mirroring our own sense of accomplishment. We took it as a very good sign indeed.

    With the morning sun climbing high and the sea as flat as a millpond, the opportunity to raise the sails was too perfect to resist. We are determined to sail more on this journey, and with the wind coming from a SSW direction, we couldn't have asked for better conditions (though a little more breeze wouldn't have gone amiss!). We kept the engine ticking over for a while, just at low revs, ensuring we maintained momentum for the 10-12 hour journey to Scarborough. We didn't want to arrive in the dark, and ideally, we aimed for high water, so dawdling wasn't an option. It wasn't long before we could cut the engine completely, gliding along at a respectable 6 knots – pure sailing bliss!

    Our focus, however, couldn't solely be on the horizon. The waters between Spurn Head and Flamborough were a minefield of fishing pots. Some markers were clear, brightly coloured buoys, but many looked like forgotten relics, encrusted with green and black marine growth, almost invisible against the shimmering sea, lurking like submerged traps. We knew that beyond the distinctive headland of Flamborough, with its lighthouse perched atop, the markers would shift from buoys to flags on sticks, notoriously difficult to spot, especially the darker ones that seemed to deliberately blend into the waves.

    Flamborough Head itself was breathtaking. Sheltered coves hugged the shoreline beneath towering cliffs, and tiny figures of tourists dotted the clifftop, enjoying the dramatic views. The iconic Flamborough Head Lighthouse, built in 1806, stood guard, a beacon designed to warn ships of the perilous cliffs. Originally lit by a revolving oil lamp (an earlier 1669 lighthouse was never actually lit!), it was electrified in 1940 and automated in 1996, it is now controlled remotely from Harwich, Essex. As we sailed past the lighthouse, hundreds of Guillemots and Kittiwakes wheeled and soared around the cliff edges, their cries adding to the wild symphony of the coast. Pepper watched, utterly fascinated, as numerous groups of Guillemots bobbed in the water, only to take flight in a flurry of wings just as Halcyon Sea carved her way through their patch. The flag markers of the lobster pots began to appear, and we found ourselves playing a tense game of dodgems right up until we reached Filey Brigg.

    It was here, that the tide had turned against us, our speed dropping noticeably, prompting us to restart the engine to maintain our pace. And then, as if on cue, the wind began to gust. We'd started the day with a gentle 5 knots, watching it steadily climb to 15. Now, it was ripping up to a ferocious 28 knots. While the sea state miraculously didn't escalate into a full-blown chaos, the boat began to feel heavy, almost sluggish. For our own safety, a tactical decision was made: drop the genoa and put a reef in the mainsail. Tracey turned Halcyon Sea into the wind, bringing her to a near halt and centring the boom, while Nick wrestled with the reefing line. For those unfamiliar with the terminology, this simply means reducing the amount of sail exposed to the wind, lessening the force on the boat.

    However, a new snag! We noticed our second reefing line was stubbornly trapped behind the first at the mast. Not a critical issue for that very moment, but it would certainly become one when we eventually needed to drop the mainsail or put in a second reef. Once the first reef was in, the boat felt significantly easier to handle, and we settled back into the rhythm, pushing onward towards our destination.

    Ahead, a massive, ominous black cloud loomed over the cliffs ahead. We kept a wary eye on the wind, which seemed to teasingly drop, only to gust ferociously again just as we started to feel safe. It was time. Time for that second reef. Once again, Tracey smoothly turned the boat into the wind, slowing the engine. This allowed Nick to get to the mast and, with a bit of "jiggery pokery" managed to free the snagged line. With that accomplished, the second reef was promptly added to the mainsail. We could have dropped all sail at this point, but Scarborough was still a little way off, and we were keen to maintain our momentum.

    Finally, we were close enough to the harbour to call for berthing instructions. Yet again, our 2-meter depth presented a slight predicament. The harbour master, initially, told us to berth alongside a dredger. Tracey's composure, already frayed by the reefing issue, plummeted. Ease was all we craved, and Pepper needed to get ashore immediately. Climbing over a massive dredger and scaling a harbour wall was not the "easy" arrival we'd dreamed of. However, the Harbour Master, bless his soul, was incredibly helpful. He seemed to grasp our plight and, perhaps because we didn't descend into a screaming fit, seemed even more eager to assist. Eventually, he offered us another spot – it was tight, and, wouldn't you know it… short pontoons. Tracey was on the verge of tears. But Nick's expert boat handling saw us creep into our designated spot with surprising ease, only a gentle kiss on the pontoon. Our primary concern was avoiding the Commodore's speed boat, berthed precariously close, and the harbour master kindly helped by fending us off it.

    We were in! Just as Tracey took Pepper ashore for her eagerly anticipated walk, the heavens opened. It was a short, sharp downpour, the first rain we'd seen during the day for months, lasting no more than ten minutes. Back onboard, Tracey poured our now-obligatory celebratory drinks. A loud, rumbling noise then echoed around the marina. "Quick!" Nick shouted, "Bring your phone!" A convoy of tractors, large and defiant, were parading along the promenade – we assumed a protest against recent farmer inheritance tax changes. By God, they were loud; they certainly made their presence known!

    After a classic fish and chip supper, we crawled into bed, utterly weary but filled with a profound sense of accomplishment. We'll only be spending two nights here, taking advantage of the weather window on Monday to move further up the coast.
    Les mer

  • The Unfinished Chore List

    28.–31. mai, England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Grimsby: The Unfinished Chore List and the Wisdom of the Humber Cruising Association!

    Our time in Grimsby has been a whirlwind of boat jobs – tasks long overdue and, typically for us, still not quite complete!

    Wednesday saw the start of the polishing saga. Oh, what a mind-numbingly boring chore, yet the gleaming end result is always incredibly satisfying. Tracey channelled her inner Karate Kid, muttering "Wax on, wax off!" as she tackled the process:

    Applying a medium cutting compound (our trusty T-Cut).
    Allowing it to dry, then buffing it off.
    Applying Starbrite Marine Polish.
    Letting it dry, then buffing it off.
    Applying wax.
    And finally, more buffing!

    We didn't conquer the entire cockpit, but we made a solid start and are keen to finish the rest whenever we next find ourselves with a spare moment (probably somewhere in Scotland!).

    Thursday brought a new challenge: replacing one of the leather wheel covers. Yes, just one – the other still awaits its turn. This five-hour endeavour was diligently videoed for future reference (and perhaps amusement!). We'd bought the kit last year, but sheer nerves about messing it up, coupled with a healthy dose of forgetfulness, meant it had languished in a locker. We're genuinely chuffed with the result, so the second one will get done when we can. With a few extra days at our next stop due to the weather, maybe we can tick that off the list then. As you can probably tell, we're not exactly the most motivated couple when it comes to boat chores!

    Friday presented a slight problem. The headlining on Nick's side of the boat had decided to stage a dramatic collapse, peeling away from the hull. Nick set about the tedious task of scraping away all the old, crumbly foam backing and meticulously cleaning the vinyl cover. While we'll eventually replace the entire vinyl, a temporary fix was needed. Once cleaned, Nick liberally sprayed both the hull and the back of the vinyl with spray adhesive, coaxing the covering back onto the wall. The only minor snag? With the foam now completely gone, a sliver of light now pierces through from the hull. It's a rather stark, if not a little scary, reminder of just how thin the barrier protecting us from the elements actually is! Let's not dwell on that too much.

    Grimsby's Hidden Gems and Local Wisdom
    Friday afternoon saw us move Halcyon Sea to the fuel pontoon for a final fill-up. Our next destination was Scarborough, another long journey looming on the horizon. The berthing master, bless him, gave us permission to stay on the fuel pontoon for the evening, making our Saturday morning departure incredibly straightforward. After dinner onboard, we ventured up to the clubhouse for a well-deserved drink. Nick, ever the conversationalist, asked if we could join a group already seated. We are so glad we did!

    It transpired that Roger, a sprightly 89-year-old, was one of the founding members of the Humber Cruising Association. It was absolutely fascinating to hear him recount the history of the association, how this very marina came into being, its current operations, and even their unique pricing structure. Like many sailing clubs, they openly admitted their struggle to attract younger members – a common thread we've observed on our journey. But as the evening wore on, filled with shared stories and hearty laughter, our initial reservations about Grimsby began to soften.

    We asked them about their typical sailing grounds, as we couldn't quite fathom where local trips would take them. They mainly stick to sailing to Hull or up to the end of Spurn Head point, where they can anchor or beach, depending on their boat type. Intriguingly, they also make regular passages across to Belgium or Holland, with Oostende being a mere 16-hour journey – less than our longest passage to date! One of the members kindly guided us through the best departure routes on the large charts adorning the clubhouse walls. It was incredibly reassuring to have our carefully planned route affirmed by local experts.

    We returned to the boat, content and ready for our 8 am departure. It was most definitely time to move on. After hearing about the local area directly from the locals, we couldn't help but feel that we might have missed so much. Perhaps we need to be more open-minded, to truly not judge a book by its cover. Too late now, though – maybe another time!
    Les mer

  • The Grimsby Escape and Top Secret Party

    20.–28. mai, England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Scarborough on Hold: The Grimsby Escape and a Top-Secret Party Mission!

    Scarborough, our next maritime conquest, had been abruptly put on ice! A last-minute, utterly irresistible invitation had landed in our laps – a party we always attend, but tragically missed last year. There was no way we were letting this one slip through our fingers if humanly possible.

    It all began innocently enough. Our friend Julie, catching wind of our latest blog post, messaged us: "Where in the world are you two?" A flurry of WhatsApp messages later, the audacious invitation arrived. She knew it was a long shot, a near impossibility. After our epic Lowestoft-to-Grimsby passage, all we truly craved was to "down tools" – or, more accurately, "drop sails" – for a few blissful days. The mere thought of orchestrating a train journey back to Peterborough, with Pepper in tow, felt like a monumental challenge. We debated, we pondered, but honestly, neither of us possessed the mental fortitude to make any big decisions. We simply carried on, walking Pepper (when absolutely necessary) and gingerly beginning to explore our new locale.

    "Gingerly" being the operative word. Stepping out of the marina gate, we were plunged into a scene of stark desolation: derelict buildings, parched verges, and a disturbing carpet of broken glass and refuse, even the grim sight of dead seagull carcasses. This was not the picturesque welcome we'd hoped for. Grimsby, once a titan among the world's fishing ports, had visibly, heartbreakingly deteriorated. A fellow sailor's vlog had hinted at a park nearby, a supposed haven for Pepper to stretch her legs, so we decided to brave the walk into the nearest township. For Tracey, whose anxiety sometimes flares in unfamiliar environments, this expedition was terrifying. The "high street," as it was optimistically called, ran perilously close to a thundering dual carriageway. The roar of boy racers, their souped-up exhausts spewing noise, spooked Pepper, sending shivers down our own spines. We trudged on, provisions being a non-negotiable, and Aldi, conveniently opposite the promised park, was our target. The entire experience felt deeply unsettling.

    It was amidst this rather bleak landscape that the conversation turned serious: do we push further north, or do we bin the sailing for a bit and make a dash back to Peterborough? After acquiring our groceries and allowing Pepper a much-needed frolic in the park, we returned to the marina. The clubhouse was open, and with the sun still shining, a drink felt mandatory. Alas, this was the second time Pepper was denied entry, but a spacious veranda, protected by a high glass windbreak, offered a perfect alternative. We sat outside, soaking up the last rays of the day, our spirits slowly mending. The club members, incredibly friendly and apologetic about the dog rule, popped out frequently to chat. And it was then, under the golden glow of the setting sun, that the decision solidified: Peterborough, here we come!

    Just then, our friend Tareena called, wondering about our next destination, hoping to pinpoint a future meeting point further north. She mentioned she was going to the party. A mischievous glint appeared in Tracey's eye. Julie's last message echoed in her mind: "If you can make it, make it a surprise for everyone, especially me!" We kept our lips sealed.

    Back on the boat, Nick began to conjure dinner while Tracey, a woman on a mission, re-checked train times. Yes! It was doable!

    The next morning, bags packed with military precision, we set off for Grimsby Docks station, aiming for the 13:00 train. A kind gentleman offered us a lift as we left the marina – a gesture we politely declined, proud of our trusty shopping trolley and the not-too-distant walk. Oh, how we instantly regretted that decision. Upon arrival at the station, a stark message glared at us: TRAIN CANCELLED.

    A cold dread settled in. We had a mere 45 minutes to get to Grimsby Town station, a feat that would be a breeze for anyone who actually knew where they were going. Tracey, remembering a taxi firm office from our walk, dragged us back. "A cab," she gasped, "and it must take dogs!" The struggle was real. Many drivers, it seemed, viewed our adorable pooch as a canine contaminant. Rude! Finally, a hero cabbie arrived, whisking us away to the main station. It was only then, as the familiar bustle of shops and people surrounded us, that we realised where we'd walked yesterday hadn't been "town" at all. We were in the real town!

    Tickets purchased, we hurried over the bridge to the other platform, a mere ten-minute wait until our train arrived. Our destination: back to Teresa and Martin's, Tracey's sister and brother-in-law. They were going away for the weekend, and in exchange for their hospitality, we'd gladly agreed to look after their dog, Toby. A win-win! Martin met us at Whittlesey station. Not only was the shopping trolley bursting at the seams, but we also had a large holdall overflowing with dirty laundry. Teresa's washing machine was about to get another serious workout!

    Friday was a blur of land-based logistics. Tracey’s Mum, Kathy, had popped over and all of us jumped to tidy the house as Teresa received a last-minute call for a property viewing. Once Teresa and Martin were waved off on their weekend escape, Tracey jumped in the car and headed to Hampton for a crucial gift and food shop. This was a high-risk manoeuvre; the possibility of bumping into someone she knew was considerable. And lo and behold, there was Tareena, sitting outside with her dogs while her partner Darren ran errands. The dilemma: hide, or risk the surprise? Tracey, ever the daredevil, chose the latter. Tareena's jaw nearly hit the pavement! She hadn't suspected a thing after their phone call. Tracey swore her to absolute secrecy, and after a quick, excited catch-up, they parted ways until the grand reveal at the party.

    That evening, after a delicious dinner and a few competitive rounds of cards, we indulged in a cheeky hour in the hot tub, the bubbling warmth washing away the week's stresses. Sleep came easily, filled with the buzzing anticipation of the next day.

    Saturday dawned, the air thick with excitement. The party kicked off at 2 pm. After getting ourselves sorted and giving the dogs a proper long walk, it was showtime. A cab was called. We decided to video our entrance, hoping to capture the pure shock on our friends' faces. Nick, ever the strategist, suggested Tracey run in first, shouting "SURPRISE!" The moment was glorious. A cascade of shrieks and squeals, followed by a torrent of hugs – the reunion had begun! The birthday girl was genuinely thrilled we'd made it, and so were we. This group of friends, the "glue" that keeps us all connected (thanks to Julie and Matt's incredible efforts!), is truly special. We usually only see them once or twice a year, and Julie's party is the magnetic force that draws us all together. Matt had laid on a truly fabulous spread, far more food than could possibly be consumed – they are, without a doubt, fantastic hosts. After regaling tales of our recent maritime adventures, indulging in far too many sausages, and dancing around the garden like carefree teenagers, it was time to bid our bittersweet farewells. What an event! It's always incredibly humbling how, despite the distance and the years, this cherished group of friends makes us feel so utterly welcome, as if no time has passed at all. We are truly blessed to have such wonderful friendships.

    The Case of the Missing Garden Ornament:

    During the evening, Nick vanished. This isn't uncommon; we're both social butterflies, flitting between conversations. However, a little while later, Lisa cornered Tracey, pulling her aside conspiratorially. "I've put something in your bag," she whispered. Tracey, momentarily perplexed, glanced down. "I haven't taken a bag with me," she mumbled. Lisa's eyes twinkled with mischief as she clarified. In the bag that contained our drinks, a new resident now resided: a garden gnome. Once again, Nick and Lisa, partners in playful crime, had been up to their mischievous tricks, "borrowing" and "relocating" one of Matt and Julie's beloved gnomes. The audacious plan? For us to smuggle the gnome onto Halcyon Sea, take photos of its adventures, and nonchalantly post them to our blog until Julie or Matt finally recognized their missing garden dweller. It seemed hilariously funny at the time, a stroke of genius in the warm glow of friendship and a few celebratory drinks.

    Gnome Alone: A Captain's Dilemma

    As for the gnome… in the cold, harsh light of day, Tracey’s laughter turned to a slight frown. Not only did we face the Herculean task of transporting this surprisingly heavy garden ornament back to the boat via train, but to truly execute Nick and Lisa’s naughty plan, we'd have to keep it safe throughout its maritime escapades. This was one risk Tracey, the ever-practical co-captain, was simply not prepared to take. While we do have photographic evidence of the gnome's brief foray into our lives (proof of Nick and Lisa's cunning!), it has since found a much safer harbor. It's now residing comfortably at Teresa and Martin's house, in secure storage, awaiting either collection or a direct return to its rightful garden.

    So, Julie, if you're reading this, apologies! Your gnome's world tour might be slightly curtailed, but rest assured, it's living its best (and safest) life, probably enjoying miniature cups of tea by the fireplace. We promise, it's in better hands than ours—we're too busy trying not to run aground!

    A couple more blissfully relaxing days followed, before it was time to catch the train back to Grimsby. The weather forecast for our trip to Scarborough isn't looking particularly inviting until Saturday, so it seems we're embracing a few more days here. Time to get the polishers out, give the cockpit a good shine, and freshen up Halcyon Sea. The land adventures were epic, but the call of the sea, and the next port, is getting louder!
    Les mer

  • Lowestoft to Grimsby: A 20-Hour Odyssey

    19. mai, England ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Lowestoft to Grimsby: A 20-Hour Odyssey Through Starlight, Fog, and Triumph!

    The clock struck 13:40, and with Halcyon Sea's tanks brimming with fresh diesel, we cast off from Lowestoft. The air was crisp, carrying the invigorating chill of the North Sea, but the conditions were, in a word, perfect. Not too windy, yet enough of a breeze to promise the sweet silence of sails once we cleared the shallows. The sun blazed in a brilliant blue sky, a dazzling canvas for our next grand adventure. We were ready! Every conceivable preparation for this 20-hour odyssey had been thoroughly executed; now, all that remained was to actually get on with it.

    The sea stretched before us, a vast, empty expanse, save for a lone fishing vessel, its stern a flurry of activity as a flock of seagulls performed a hungry aerial ballet. The coastline, rugged and wild, was punctuated by charming bursts of colour – clusters of beach huts nestled wherever the cliffs receded to reveal a sandy stretch. In the distance, Great Yarmouth emerged, its iconic Big Wheel standing proudly against the backdrop of a sprawling industrial dock. Childhood memories of seaside fun, of sticky fingers and joyful shouts, flickered in our minds, a nostalgic counterpoint to the serious business of navigation. Pepper, our furry first mate, seemed to absorb the serene beauty, basking in the sunlight, lulled into a deep slumber by the gentle rocking motion of the boat.

    And then, the moment we'd been waiting for. With a satisfying rustle and flap, the sails unfurled, catching the wind, and the engine, our faithful workhorse, fell silent. The world transformed. The only sound was the rhythmic, peaceful swoosh of the waves as Halcyon Sea's bow sliced through them. Absolute bliss!

    As dusk began to paint the sky around 6 pm, we decided it was time for a pre-night-sail refuel. Our ready-made cottage pie and lasagna, culinary masterpieces of convenience, emerged from the oven just as the sun began its majestic descent. We ate, cleared away, and watched in silent awe as the fiery orange glow melted into the sea, leaving behind a crimson horizon. With no light pollution to mar the view, the stars began to pepper the inky canvas above, the familiar Plough constellation surrounded by a dazzling tapestry of thousands of tiny lights, ordinarily hidden from our urban-tinted eyes. It was truly beautiful.

    But as the velvet darkness of night rolled in, a new challenge emerged. The subtle glints of distant lobster pot markers became increasingly elusive, and with each passing mile, we felt a growing sense that our journey was now truly in the lap of the gods. The clear sky, while beautiful, brought with it a dramatic drop in temperature. It was cold. Pepper, sensing the chill and perhaps our quiet tension, burrowed deeper beneath her blankets, comforted by Tracey's frequent, reassuring strokes.

    We continued to make good progress, but tiredness, an insidious adversary, began to creep in. Tracey attempted a brief catnap in the saloon, but Pepper, ever the vigilant co-pilot, refused to settle, nudging Tracey back on deck where we resorted to taking turns snatching moments of rest. Tracey managed to get a couple of hours sleep and as the silence and boredom of being alone set in, Nick began to munch his way through some of the treats and snacks that had been bought for the trip. The tide, ever unforgiving, turned against us, and our speed over ground began to dwindle. With a sigh, we fired up the engine, the familiar thrum a welcome boost to our progress, and rolled away the genoa, keeping the main sail hoisted for added stability in the dark, rolling sea.

    Then, around 3 am, a chilling realization: the stars had vanished. Visibility was plummeting. Once again, the insidious tendrils of fog had found us. Both of us were instantly wide awake, our senses on high alert, scanning the inky blackness for other vessels and keeping a hawk-like watch on Navionics. Wind farms loomed close by, their invisible blades slicing through the mist, and the electronic map revealed a surprising amount of traffic in our immediate vicinity. Throughout the long, dark hours, messages of support from friends and family, who knew this was our toughest leg yet, flickered onto our phones. Their virtual presence, their reassuring words, were a lifeline, reminding us we were not alone in this vast, foggy expanse.

    As the first hint of pre-dawn light began to paint the eastern sky, the vast mouth of the Humber Estuary emerged ahead. Our destination, Grimsby Marina, lay approximately 11 miles into this wide, imposing river. Once again, we found ourselves surrounded by a flotilla of vessels, but the constant, reassuring crackle of Humber VTS warning them of our small position made us feel like a tiny, well-protected fish in a very big, busy pond.

    The lock into Grimsby Marina operates on a free-flow system for two hours either side of high water. High water was at 11:28 am, meaning the lock gates would open at 9:28 am. We arrived a full 45 minutes too early, forcing us to hold our position outside the lock, battling the cold and the encroaching exhaustion. Normally, we'd use this time to deploy fenders and prepare our lines, but the sheer weariness of the journey meant we opted to set the boat up once safely inside the marina basin.

    And then, sweet, sweet relief! We were in. Twenty hours and thirty minutes after casting off from Lowestoft, we had conquered the longest leg of our journey. Tracey, with a spring in her step, took Pepper for a much-anticipated walk while Nick systematically put Halcyon Sea to bed. After checking in with the marina staff, we succumbed to the irresistible pull of sleep, waking in the afternoon to the glorious warmth of sunshine streaming through the hatches.

    A celebratory drink was poured, a well-deserved toast to our achievement. For some, it might seem a small feat, but for us, it was a mammoth undertaking, a true test of our resilience and growing confidence. This passage has fundamentally shifted something within us, proving that we are capable of far more than we ever imagined. Now, for a few days of well-earned rest before we embark on our next chapter – Scarborough awaits!
    Les mer

  • Kittiwake Condos & Surprise Visitor

    17.–19. mai, England ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Lowestoft: From Sunrise Town to Kittiwake Condos (and a Surprise Visitor!)

    Our time in Lowestoft, the UK's most easterly town and the first place to greet the sunrise, was destined to be a fleeting one. With just a single day to prepare Halcyon Sea for the next, and longest, leg of our journey to Grimsby, sightseeing unfortunately took a back seat to meticulous planning and an early night.

    Lowestoft boasts a rich and varied history, evolving from its mention in the Domesday Book of 1086 to the thriving tourist resort it is today. In the Middle Ages, it flourished as an important fishing town, a trade that remained central to its identity well into the 20th century. A significant milestone in 1609 saw the construction of Lowestoft's first lighthouse, also the first in Great Britain, its beacon then powered by humble candles. Fast forward to June 1665, and the naval Battle of Lowestoft, part of the Second Anglo-Dutch War, unfolded some 40 miles offshore, culminating in an English victory. The town embraced modernity in 1903 with its first tramway, though the arrival of buses in 1927 proved so popular that they completely replaced the tram service by 1931. Today, while the fishing industry has gradually declined, Lowestoft thrives as a tourist destination, and a stroll along its promenade quickly reveals why. The sea wall, having undergone numerous transformations throughout history, is currently benefiting from government grants, with ongoing regeneration work promising new fountains, enhanced lighting, and extensive biodiversity improvements.

    South of Claremont Pier, the beach is truly stunning, its golden sands and designated games areas evoking the feel of a Mediterranean coastline. This is a Blue Flag beach, signifying its adherence to the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) standards for environmental management, encompassing water quality, safety, and public environmental education. Looking out from Claremont Pier, we spotted two peculiar structures in the sea (we seem to have a knack for finding oddities!). A quick bit of research by Tracey revealed these were ingenious nesting boxes designed for Kittiwakes. Each structure can astonishingly house up to 500 pairs of these graceful seabirds! Developed by a multidisciplinary team of ornithologists, architects, ecologists, and engineers, these structures feature narrow ledges and vertical sides, cleverly mimicking the natural cliffs where Kittiwakes typically nest.

    Beyond our fascinating research into Lowestoft's past and present, Sunday dissolved into a blur of dog walks, a Sunday roast dinner cooked onboard, meticulous passage planning for Grimsby, and a much-needed early night.

    Monday arrived, bringing with it the familiar flutter of anxiety that accompanies a new destination. While our confidence at sea steadily grows with each passage, that healthy fear of the unknown remains a constant companion. Nick, ever the diligent captain, busied himself with boat checks and ticking off jobs from his list, while Tracey embarked on a crucial shopping mission. We're quickly learning that preparing for longer passages requires a different approach than that of our weekend soirées around the Solent. With a daunting 20-hour trip ahead of us, we decided to make life onboard a little easier. Our shopping list included pre-packed sandwiches, ready meals, a generous supply of chocolate and other snacks, and even pre-cut melon and pineapple slices. Yes, we could have made sandwiches, but this way, we had a varied selection, crucial for Tracey, who often struggles with her appetite while underway and is not a fan of preparing food in a rolling galley.

    Mid-shopping-stowage, a voice hailed Halcyon Sea from the pontoon. We initially assumed it was marina staff, expecting our departure. Instead, we were delightfully surprised by a fellow sailor who had been following our journey on AIS, having heard about our travels through the RNSA newsletter! We welcomed Jeremy onboard, and the next hour was filled with lively conversation, spinning "dits" (naval slang for stories) about our respective navy days, sailing histories, and adventures. It was such a genuinely welcome surprise and incredibly heartwarming to meet someone who had taken such an interest in our journey, enough to come and visit! The only regret? In our excitement, we completely forgot to ask Jeremy to sign our guestbook! So, Jeremy, if you're reading this, next time you're onboard, that guestbook awaits!

    Before our departure, a final stop at the fuel pontoon was necessary. Tracey took Pepper ashore for her last land-based walk, returning with the quintessential seaside treats: hot, fresh donuts and a couple of sticks of classic Lowestoft Rock. With full tanks and happy bellies (and a slightly sugared-up crew!), we were ready. The next episode of our blog will recount the epic passage to Grimsby!
    Les mer

  • Ipswich Adieu & Orford Ness Intrigue

    14.–18. mai, England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Ipswich Adieu, Orford Ness Intrigue, and a Lowestoft Landing (with a side of Yacht Club Snobbery!)

    Our time in Ipswich was a flurry of activity, a land-based reset button before we embraced the open sea once more. The boat became our three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle as we reloaded everything, Tracey's boys, Adam and Scott, were hugged and caught up with, and the trusty car made its final journey back to Teresa and Martin's in Whittlesey.

    Meeting up with Scott was a particular highlight, having just returned from a month-long adventure in Japan. It's still mind-boggling how technology shrinks the world – video calls from a bustling Tokyo street to us sailing along the South coast felt as casual as chatting in the next room. We enjoyed a fantastic evening with the boys over a much-craved Indian takeaway, but as always, time zipped by far too quickly, and goodbyes were exchanged.

    The next day, Nick was on car-return duty. The Veteran's Railcard was certainly earning its keep! However, the initial train journey hit a snag with a cancellation and a lengthy delay. Thankfully, the ever-helpful Teresa came to the rescue, whisking Nick back to theirs for a spot of lunch before attempt number two. This time, the train gods smiled, and he made it back to Ipswich without further incident. Meanwhile, Tracey was a whirlwind of boat prep, cleaning, stowing, and even managing to conjure up dinner, all in anticipation of our ridiculously early 5 am alarm and 6 am departure on Saturday.

    We slipped our lines with the rising tide, a gentle push back up the River Orwell before turning left at the harbour entrance and out into the open sea. It felt fantastic to be back aboard and even better to be on the move again! The morning was a chilly, overcast affair, but the sun was starting to poke hopeful pinholes through the clouds, casting a shimmering promise of light on the water. Yet again, the wind forecast proved to be a tad optimistic, but the allure of exploring new horizons spurred us onward. The boat that had followed us out of the harbour actually turned back, a fleeting moment of "are we making a huge mistake?" crossing our minds.

    The scenery along this stretch was… well, let's call it "uniformly green and remarkably flat." We passed the entrance to the River Deben. Many had sung its praises, but warnings about our 2-meter draft lingered, and our northward trajectory won, so we gave it a miss. The entrance to the River Ore also slid by, but our attention was already captivated by a strange collection of buildings looming on the horizon. Perched precariously on what appeared to be a vast sandbank (actually a bed of shingle), this was Orford Ness.

    These peculiar structures are the relics of a once top-secret experimental military site, a place where scientists tinkered with, tested, and concealed atomic weapons and their components. But its history stretches back further and includes some truly groundbreaking science. Under the guise of the Ionospheric Research station, set up by Robert Watson-Watt in 1935, the very first purpose-built radar masts were erected here! This seemingly innocuous station was the birthplace of RDF (Radio Direction Finding), the precursor to the RADAR (RAdio Detection and Ranging) we know today. The site's military history actually began way back in 1913 when the War Department (now the Ministry of Defence) acquired a large chunk of Orfordness for an airfield. By 1918, a staggering 600 people lived and worked here, testing new aircraft, developing parachutes, bombs, gun sights, aerial combat tactics, and even dabbling in camouflage and navigation. In the 1920s, it became a firing and bombing range for the nearby Aeroplane and Armaments Experimental Establishment at Martlesham Heath. It even served as a POW camp during WWI. The site finally closed its doors in June 1973 but was later acquired by the National Trust, welcoming its first visitors in 1995. Despite bomb disposal teams working to clear the area, much of Orfordness remains off-limits outside designated paths. Nature has also reclaimed its territory, with an abundance of flora and fauna, including Suffolk's first grey seal breeding colony, some of which we were lucky to see, established in 2021, where an impressive 130 pups were born in 2024! It's incredible how much history lies hidden along our coastlines.

    As we continued our northward trek, the imposing dome of Sizewell nuclear power station dominated the horizon. Sadly, photographic evidence is lacking, as the sea had decided to get rather frisky. A quick (and rather precarious) trip below deck for Tracey resulted in a swift return looking decidedly green, leaving Nick to single-handedly navigate the increasingly lumpy waters. Despite skirting the shallower areas, the wind against tide had whipped up a significant swell, and the boat's motion was doing absolutely nothing for Tracey's burgeoning seasickness. We passed the sandy shores of Southwold, and finally, in the hazy distance, Lowestoft appeared! But we still had another hour and a half to go!

    As we approached the buoys marking the harbour entrance, the haze surrounding the land made it difficult to discern the channel clearly. Once again, we placed our faith in Navionics to guide us safely in. Protocol dictated a call to Lowestoft VTS on channel 14 when 200 meters from the entrance, requesting permission to enter and stating our intentions. Trying to hear the radio over the howling wind and the boat's waltz in the lumpy sea was a challenge, but permission was eventually granted, and we squinted ahead. It wasn't until the very last minute that the harbour entrance revealed itself, prompting a flurry of fender deployment. We'd opted for the Royal Norfolk & Suffolk Yacht Club, conveniently located just inside the harbour wall, saving us a trip upriver and through any pesky lifting bridges. A hammerhead berth awaited us, a welcome sight after the day's exertions, and of course, Pepper was in desperate need of a post-sea leg stretch!

    First impressions of Lowestoft? A quintessential seaside town, complete with penny arcades, the irresistible aroma of fresh donuts and shops proudly displaying Lowestoft Rock, and fudge. There's a fair bit of development underway along the promenade, much of it currently fenced off. The Royal Norfolk & Suffolk Yacht Club staff were pleasant enough, but the place had an air of… well, let's just say it felt like they mistook themselves for the Royal Yacht Squadron! All sorts of rules about dress code and, crucially, a distinct lack of dog-friendliness. We were relegated to the tented area outside with Pepper, but the biting cold made that an unappealing prospect, and she certainly wasn't welcome indoors. However, our friend Robbie, pointed us towards a restaurant literally across the road called Iconic, and it truly lived up to its name. While Pepper still couldn't join us, the price and quality of the food were incredible – two main meals, a bottle of wine, a dessert, a Bacardi (naturally!), and a Bailey's coffee for a mere £48! After our long and somewhat turbulent day, with full bellies, we were in bed by 8:30 pm, utterly exhausted. Tomorrow is officially a rest day, a chance to recharge before we set sail for Grimsby on Monday. Lowestoft, we've arrived, and we're ready for a (slightly warmer and more dog-friendly) exploration!
    Les mer

  • Back to Boat Life

    7.–15. mai, England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Back to Boat Life (and a Whirlwind of Family Hugs!)

    So, it's been a tad quiet on the Halcyon Sea front for the past week, and for a very good reason: we've been playing "Planes, Trains, and Automobiles" (minus the planes, thankfully!) as we embarked on a whirlwind tour of the UK, reconnecting with our wonderful family. Think of it as a high-speed interlude in our slow-paced nautical adventure! The mission? To shower all our immediate family with hugs – a mission almost entirely accomplished, with just a few more embraces on the horizon before we finally cast off from Ipswich.

    Let's rewind a week to Wednesday, May 7th. Nick became a temporary landlubber, hopping on a train to Whittlesey, the current residence of our four-wheeled friend. The trek to Ipswich station provided a decent dose of pre-train cardio, but the journey itself was surprisingly smooth. Then, the joyous reunion drive back to Ipswich, ready to collect Tracey, Pepper (the ultimate travel companion), and what felt like the entire contents of our floating home packed into various bags.

    Ah, but the anticipated happy reunion aboard Halcyon Sea was… slightly overshadowed. Upon Nick’s return, he was greeted by a sight that could only be described as "Tracey Unchained!" The seemingly simple task of strategically repacking for our land excursion had devolved into a full-blown cabin crisis. Picture this: the one essential item Tracey absolutely needed was nestled deep within the bowels of our low-ceilinged back cabin, requiring a contortionist's skills and the prior evacuation of approximately half the cabin's belongings just to gain entry. What followed can only be described as a flurry of flung items, the tragic snapping of innocent plastic coat hangers, and a level of frayed nerves that could rival a tangled fishing net. Not the serene start to our weekend getaway we had both envisioned. For the second time on this voyage (Dover still holds the dubious honor of first place), the siren call of dry land and a stationary home echoed loudly in our minds. However, once the elusive treasures were finally unearthed and the cabin bore a vague resemblance to its usual organised chaos, the monumental task of loading the car commenced. And isn't it always the way? A fully loaded trolley coinciding perfectly with low tide, transforming the marina gangway into what felt like a near-vertical assault course. We were practically Olympic athletes before we even reached the car park!

    Speaking of our four-wheeled steed, the sensory whiplash of transitioning from a leisurely 5 knots on the water to a breakneck 70 mph on a jam-packed motorway was quite something! Surrounded by a blur of traffic that appeared to be operating on warp speed, even a simple bladder break required a strategic (and slightly panicked) pit stop at the services. The supposed hour-and-a-half drive stretched into an eternity, with Tracey's knuckles maintaining a grip of steel on anything within reach. Finally, sweet relief! We arrived at Teresa and Martin's, our incredibly welcoming home-away-from-floating-home for the next couple of nights. Their hospitality was a true balm to our travel-weary souls, providing not only comfortable beds but also the glorious opportunity to conquer Mount Laundry! A brief but deeply appreciated visit with Kathy, Tracey's mum, was also squeezed into the schedule.

    Friday saw us hitting the road again, destination: Liverpool! A 2 pm arrival was crucial, as Nick and his son Olly had a long-overdue (seriously, the man was starting to resemble a head like a burst couch) barbershop appointment courtesy of Olly. A glorious Greek feast with the family followed, punctuated by a few celebratory tipples at our Airbnb before we finally succumbed to the lure of sleep, ready for Saturday's big event: Jess's 30th birthday extravaganza!

    Saturday was all about celebrating the wonderful Jess, Olly's other half. While Jess was busy transforming her chosen venue into a party paradise and attending to her own pre-celebration glam, we ventured into town for breakfast and those last-minute party essentials. Once back at the house, the rest of the Liverpool contingent arrived: Andy, Marie, Sophie, Paige, and Val! Pre-party drinks flowed freely, followed by a communal pizza feast orchestrated by the ever-organised Lauren (Nick's daughter) as everyone took their turn navigating the two surprisingly efficient bathrooms shared by our rather large and excitable crew, also including Matt and Elsie (our adorable granddaughter), Steph and her girls Maddie and Amelia, and the lovely Sandra and Tony. Against all odds, everyone emerged looking fabulous and a fleet of Ubers whisked us across town to the City Wine Bar. Jess had truly outdone herself with the decorations, and a fantastic playlist curated by her niece set the perfect party vibe. Surrounded by a sea of loving friends and family, the atmosphere was electric, a true testament to the wonderful person we were celebrating. A truly fantastic evening of laughter, dancing (well, some of us!), and general merriment ensued!

    Sunday dawned with the familiar ritual of packing (again!), followed by a convoy heading to Olly and Jess's apartment overlooking the beautiful Sefton Park. Olly had arranged a charming breakfast picnic in the park! Armed with picnic chairs, blankets, and a strategically erected tent to protect the culinary delights from any rogue park squirrels, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, watching Jess open her presents from the family in the glorious sunshine. As Monday loomed for most, the farewells began, but we were lucky enough to snag a few more precious hours with Jess and Olly before heading to Pat and Tony's (Jess's amazing parents) for a BBQ and round two of birthday celebrations – Sunday being Jess's actual big day! A wonderful afternoon of sunshine, good food, and even better company followed, but the exhaustion from the whirlwind weekend was starting to set in, prompting a 7:30 pm departure. We were once again fortunate to enjoy a few more hours with Jess and Olly, staying at their place for the night before our Monday morning departure.

    Monday saw Olly and Jess setting off on a well-deserved surprise mini-break, leaving us to make our way back to Whittlesey. Our incredibly kind hosts, Teresa and Martin, had also offered to look after our furry first mate, Pepper, for the weekend! Pepper, it sounds like, had the absolute time of her life with the glorious freedom of a dog flap and a sprawling garden, while we enjoyed a wonderfully stress-free (albeit slightly Pepper-less) weekend. We picked up some BBQ essentials and enjoyed a lovely summer-style evening with Teresa and Martin before our Tuesday drive back to Ipswich.

    So, here we are, back aboard Halcyon Sea in Ipswich! And the family cuddles aren't quite over yet – we're planning to catch up with Tracey's wonderful children tomorrow or Thursday before we finally point our trusty vessel north towards Lowestoft and the next exciting chapter of our adventure. The best news? No immediate deadlines looming! Our next fixed point on the horizon is the RNSA90 Scotland branch on a four day rally starting in Ardrossan in August. It feels like we can finally take a long, deep breath and enjoy the journey at our own pace. What an incredible, albeit slightly chaotic, week of family love, laughter, and land-based escapades! Now, where did we leave those boat shoes…?
    Les mer

  • A Heart-Stopping Dash Over the Shallows

    6. mai, England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Leaving Burnham: The Great Ipswich Marina Quest (and a Heart-Stopping Dash Over the Shallows!)

    The lure of Ipswich had called, but securing our next berth was proving to be a saga worthy of its own nautical epic! While basking in the sunny serenity of Burnham, we'd been bombarded with a fascinating (and often conflicting) array of advice from fellow sailors regarding the best route to Ipswich and, more crucially, the perfect marina for our extended stay.

    The whispers from the sailing grapevine consistently pointed towards Shotley Marina, perched enticingly at the mouth of the River Orwell with its convenient lock gate. It sounded ideal – no lengthy river motor on departure, and glowing reviews. We were all set to book, only for the Harbour Master's voice on the phone to drop a bombshell: "Sorry, your 2-meter draft won't clear our 1.8-meter dredging. And with the Bank Holiday weekend keeping the lock perpetually busy, inner water levels might be an issue." Our jaws practically hit the deck! So much for local intel.

    Next on the hit list: Woolverstone. An MDL marina, like Chatham, it promised familiarity but came with a price tag that made our wallets wince – a significant factor when every pound counts on this grand adventure. Then came Royal Harwich, alluringly situated on the riverfront but offering only a handful of exposed "hammerhead" berths for non-members. Tracey's inner control freak (which, let's be honest, is far from hidden these days) recoiled at the thought of leaving Halcyon Sea exposed to the whims of wind and tide while we were off retrieving our car.

    Finally, we turned our attention further upriver into Ipswich itself, and that's when we stumbled upon Fox's. A smaller marina, a mere 100 berths, but from the very first phone call, they were a breath of fresh air – genuinely helpful and refreshingly accommodating. The icing on the cake? Its walk-able proximity to Ipswich rail station, a non-negotiable for our car retrieval mission. The first piece of our complex logistical puzzle was firmly in place.

    With our marina secured, it was time to tackle the passage plan, a topic that had sparked even more debate than the marina choice! The local wisdom suggested a bold shortcut: "Skip over the Sands! You'll save loads of time!" Navionics, our digital oracle, confirmed the possibility, albeit with a rather alarming "0.1m" chart datum depth for the shallowest section. But with a neap tide working in our favour, the siren song of saved hours proved too strong to resist. A calculated risk, perhaps, but the prospect of bypassing a lengthy detour was too tempting.

    We awoke early, the chilly morning air biting, and slipped our lines from Burnham at a crisp 8 am. The forecast promised a breezy day, gusts of 15 knots – a standard sailing (or, more likely, motoring) day, perfectly doable. Our initial trundle out of the River Crouch was serenely quiet, passing only a few industrious fishing boats already anchored on a natural shelf, their lines already in the water.

    But the calm, as always, was fleeting. Soon after leaving the buoyed path, the wind began to pick up, and with the water being relatively shallow, this created a significant, unpleasant swell. We were quickly regretting not donning every single thermal, jumper, and foul-weather layer we possessed. Our teeth chattered, but turning back was simply not an option; the logistical challenge of getting to Liverpool by Friday loomed large.

    We pressed on, heading towards the infamous Spitway – the shallowest, and most nerve-wracking, part of our journey. Our eyes were glued to Navionics, the pink track line of our intended route snaking across the ominously low depths. Up ahead, a tantalizing patch of blue sky appeared through the clouds – was this the good omen we so desperately craved? Nick, abandoning autopilot, took the helm, ready to pivot if needed. We prayed the swell would subside; running aground was not on today's agenda.

    As Halcyon Sea, our sturdy little home, crept along the track leading across the shallows, silence descended. We held our breath, each lost in our own thoughts and fierce concentration. One eye glued to the depth sounder, one eye on Navionics (we knew it should only take about five heart-stopping minutes to cross), and another on the relentless swell and the ever-shifting weather.

    And then, a moment of pure magic. For those five "bum-twitching" minutes, the sea calmed. The choppy waves subsided, replaced by a surprisingly gentle undulation. A sliver of sun shone through the clouds, as if guiding our way. We were on a neap tide, our research had been meticulous… surely, surely we could make this?

    We were through! A collective, shaky exhale escaped us. We've breathed that sigh of relief countless times on this journey, but this one felt particularly poignant. Our ever-present logbook demanded its entry, documenting the harrowing hour that had just passed.

    But the sea, ever a fickle mistress, soon resumed her turbulent dance. The swell increased, the fleeting sun retreated behind the clouds, and the cold bit harder. We passed Clacton and Walton-on-the-Naze, its historic pier jutting defiantly into the churning grey. In the distance, the Harwich docks emerged, their monstrous cranes a stark, industrial contrast to the cheerful pastel beach huts lining the seafront. We knew that turning to enter the Orwell River would mean facing the waves beam-on, exacerbating the relentless rolling motion that was already turning Tracey a rather sickly shade of green. Seasickness, the unwelcome travel companion, had made its grand entrance. We passed the very marinas we had so confidently (and wrongly, it now seemed) written off, a fleeting pang of "what if?"

    Then, as if by divine intervention, as we finally entered the mouth of the Orwell River, all calmed down. The chaotic swell faded, replaced by the gentle ripples of river life. The only other boats sharing the water were nimble dinghies, their sails tacking back and forth in peaceful practice. We sailed under the familiar arch of the Orwell Bridge, a landmark Tracey had driven over countless times, a surreal moment of land-based memory meeting our new maritime reality. A left turn into our chosen marina, our home for the next few weeks, and the journey was finally over.

    Cold, exhausted, and profoundly relieved, we put Halcyon Sea to bed. Pepper, in her new surroundings, enjoyed a long-anticipated run along the riverside before we crashed into our bunks. Tomorrow's mission: a train journey to Whittlesey to reclaim the car – a vital step in our next logistical challenge. This sailing life, we're learning, is less a race and more an epic, exhilarating, occasionally terrifying, and utterly unforgettable marathon!
    Les mer

  • Burnham Yacht Harbour

    May Bank Holiday: Burnham Buzzes

    2.–6. mai, England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Early May Bank Holiday: Burnham Buzzes

    Our arrival in Burnham-on-Crouch heralded a glorious blank canvas of a Bank Holiday weekend. The grand plan? Soak up the sunshine, recharge our batteries, and finally nail down our next port of call for a potential two-week stay, juggling a Liverpool family shindig and the still-pending details of our friend Alistair's funeral in Scotland. Little did we know, the Essex coastline held a delightful surprise in store!

    As we'd sailed past, Tracey, ever the social butterfly, had pinged her Aunt Lin, who happens to reside in these parts. An invitation was extended, and to our delight, Lin and her husband Terry were free on Saturday! They'd heard all about the nautical escapades aboard Halcyon Sea but had yet to experience her charms firsthand. Cue much excitement! Not to be outdone, a message had also winged its way from one of Nick's former Commanding Officers, Iain, who, upon hearing of our proximity, suggested a meet-up. Sunday was swiftly penciled in for a reunion. Our quiet weekend was rapidly transforming into a veritable social whirl!

    Saturday dawned in all its sunny glory, and the first wave of visitors arrived. It was such a joy to see Aunt Lin and Terry after far too long! The afternoon was a delightful tapestry of catching up on family news, sharing tales of our watery wanderings, and general all-around good cheer. Naturally, the Swallowtail, the marina's on-site bar and restaurant, provided the perfect backdrop for a wonderfully convivial lunch, filled with laughter and the easy rhythm of familiar company. Before we knew it, five glorious hours had evaporated, and it was time for heartfelt farewells. Talk about a convenient plot twist! We had a Tesco delivery scheduled for that evening. Burnham town, while charming, was a bit of a trek for a full-scale grocery haul, even with my fabulous new accessory – a shopping trolley! Yes, you read that right. The quintessential granny trolley, lovingly bestowed upon us by one of Val's thoughtful friends, has become my unexpected favourite. Who knew practicality could be so chic?!

    Sunday brought the much-anticipated reunion with Iain and his lovely wife Sue. Nick confessed to a few pre-meeting butterflies, as it had been a good thirty years since their paths had last crossed. However, the moment they arrived, any awkwardness vanished. It was as if no time had passed at all! The conversation flowed effortlessly, a testament to shared experiences and a surprising amount of common ground. We suspect Sue may have fallen head-over-heels for Pepper, and we might just be responsible for a future furry addition to their household – you've been warned, Iain and Sue! Again, the time flew by in a flurry of laughter and reminiscing, and we parted ways with promises to stay in touch and hopefully orchestrate another meet-up soon. Our trusty visitor's book, a leaving gift from Portsmouth, is slowly but surely filling up with warm wishes and signatures – a wonderful memento of the friendly faces we've welcomed aboard, be it for a quick cuppa or a full-blown afternoon tea!

    Our initial plan involved a Bank Holiday Monday departure, but Mother Nature, in her infinite wisdom (or perhaps just a touch of stubbornness), decided otherwise. The weather forecast suggested a less-than-ideal sailing day, so we happily opted for a slightly longer Burnham sojourn. This wasn't a hardship, as we hadn't yet properly explored beyond Pepper's immediate marina playground, a verdant haven of green spaces and fields perfect for her zoomies. We ventured along the riverfront towards the town, attempting a visit to the prestigious Royal Burnham Yacht Club. While we would have been welcomed, their dog policy restricted Pepper to certain areas, and the designated patio was rather crowded with members seeking shelter from the predicted (and accurate) blustery conditions. Squeezing a slightly bewildered Pepper onto a busy patio didn't feel fair. Instead, we plumped for the welcoming embrace of Ye Olde White Hart, a local pub that provided a truly hearty and delicious roast dinner. Both the food and the service were top-notch! Fun fact: Burnham-on-Crouch is a renowned sailing centre, hosting the famous "Burnham Week" regatta every August, attracting sailors from across the UK and beyond! The town also boasts a rich maritime history, once being a significant fishing port.

    Sadly, our Burnham stop didn't align with Tracey's children's schedules. Adam already had Bank Holiday plans, and Scott was just returning from a month-long adventure in Japan. However, with Ipswich as our likely next destination, we're hopeful for a family catch-up in the coming weeks while we're still relatively close.

    Our overall verdict on Burnham-on-Crouch? A resounding thumbs-up! Despite initial trepidation about the River Crouch entrance (a healthy dose of unfamiliar-territory nerves!), we found the approach straightforward. The people of Burnham were exceptionally friendly, and Burnham Yacht Harbour itself was incredibly welcoming. The Swallowtail restaurant gets a hearty recommendation from our bellies! And for our furry first mate, the abundance of green fields surrounding the marina made it a veritable Pepper paradise. While we might have been missing out on the Bank Holiday fun and frivolities our Fareham friends were undoubtedly enjoying down in Bembridge, we followed the shenanigans on the WhatsApp group that shared plenty of photos. Burnham, you were a delight!
    Les mer

  • Holiday Vibes, then Burnham Ahoy

    1.–2. mai, England ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Days 23 & 24: Holiday Vibes, Then Burnham Ahoy!

    Our final full day in Chatham felt gloriously… lazy! The sun was positively beaming, and we wholeheartedly embraced its golden invitation to do absolutely nothing of great importance. A pact was made: tonight, we’d treat ourselves to a proper meal out, ensuring Halcyon Sea was shipshape and Bristol fashion for our early departure the next morning.

    Pepper, ever the priority, enjoyed her constitutional, and then we sauntered out, feeling positively holiday-esque. Cocktails at Pier 5, overlooking the marina bustle, set the relaxed tone before we indulged in a pizza feast at Fireaway. And oh, did Lady Luck decide to sprinkle some extra deliciousness our way! Apparently, a large order had been cancelled, but the pizza-making magic was already in motion. Not only did we receive a complimentary side of cheesy garlic bread (pure heaven!), but while we were still waiting our main event, our wonderful waiter presented us with an entire extra pizza to take away – tomorrow's lunch sorted for our long journey! Talk about a slice of good fortune!

    Our alarms jolted us awake at the crack of 6 am. The Chatham lock operates with the punctuality of a Swiss watch, on the hour and half hour, and our target was the 7:30 am exodus. Pepper and Tracey enjoyed their final Chatham Riverwalk, perhaps a little shorter than usual, but strategically timed for Tracey to assess the sea state and relay the intel back to Captain Nick, who was below deck conjuring morning tea and prepping Halcyon Sea for her onward voyage.

    Leaving Chatham proved surprisingly (and thankfully!) less dramatic than our arrival. Lines were slipped at 7:24 am, and by 7:44 am, we were gliding back down the River Medway, heading out to sea. We passed the majestic John H Amos paddle tug, a vessel steeped in history and a true survivor, having battled adversity to maintain her rightful place on the water (a fascinating tale you can delve into at www.medwaymaritimetrust.org.uk/johnhamos/pages/…). With a gentle whisper of wind (finally!) and the tide playing nicely, our passage out of the Medway was significantly swifter than our previous, somewhat fraught, journey in. Before long, the ghostly masts of the SS Richard Montgomery loomed into view once more, a stark and spectacular reminder of wartime history.

    We crossed the Thames Estuary, heading past the South Essex coastline. A noticeable shift occurred in the water's hue, transforming into a murky green-brown, sadly littered with debris – a disheartening mix of natural flotsam and man-made rubbish. Wind farms dotted the horizon, though few of their giant blades were turning. In the distance, a peculiar pagoda-like structure emerged – Knock John Fort, another of those fascinating Maunsell sea forts from WWII. Each of its two towers housed seven floors for accommodation and storage, topped by a gun deck, an upper deck, and a central radar control unit. This fort, too, had its moment in the radio waves, hosting Radio Essex in the mid-1960s. Every day is a school day on this adventure!

    The weather remained glorious, and with the wind still playing coy, we continued our motor-powered journey, our eyes peeled for the buoys marking our safe passage through the labyrinth of hidden sandbanks. The surprising distance between these navigational aids kept us both alert, even Pepper seemed to take her watch duty with unusual seriousness, the most engaged we'd seen her mid-passage! Finally, we spotted the southerly cardinal buoy, our cue to turn into the River Crouch. The charts depicted a notoriously narrow channel, so we were pleasantly surprised by its apparent width – though the approaching high water certainly contributed to our comfort levels. We took it steady in this unfamiliar territory, observing the local sailors confidently cutting corners and powerboats skimming daringly over the sandy shallows. A synchronized navigation effort ensued, Nick glued to Navionics while Tracey diligently cross-referenced with the Cruising Almanac, a reassuring double-check all the way.

    Then, there it was – Fairway 11, our turning point into Burnham Yacht Harbour! The channel did indeed narrow, and with the wind and tide now conspiring against us, we had a little wrestle to keep Halcyon Sea on her intended path to the entrance. Our allocated berth came into view, and from our approach angle, it looked… snug. Tracey took a deep breath. "We've got this!" And we did! Yes, the pontoon was short, but the Harbour Master, true to his word, had provided us with a wider, more stable platform. As we drew closer, the gap to our berth proved far more generous than initially perceived. We were in!

    Glorious sunshine bathed Burnham-on-Crouch as we secured Halcyon Sea. A brisk walk and an enthusiastic runaround for Pepper in the fields behind the marina followed, culminating in our well-deserved celebratory drinks back on board. Another port ticked off the list, another safe arrival accomplished! Burnham Yacht Marina had a familiar feel, reminding us fondly of all our wonderful friends back in Fareham who are currently enjoying a rally in Bembridge. While we were missing out on all the fun and frivolity they were undoubtedly experiencing, we raised a virtual glass in their direction. May the sun continue to shine on their Bembridge escapades, and may a grand time be had by all! Our own Burnham adventure was just beginning!
    Les mer

  • Dockyard Duds and a Sunset on the Bow

    30. april, England ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Dockyard Duds, and a Sunset on the Bow!

    The urgent need for a solid escape plan from Chatham finally spurred us into action. After much digital deliberation and chart gazing, we triumphantly booked three nights at Burnham Yacht Club. The online reviews promised accessibility at all states of tide (a definite plus!), but also whispered tales of tricky pilotage on approach and, rather ominously, "short" and "wobbly" finger pontoons. Our Ramsgate-induced gel coat anxiety twitched. We nearly bottled it, our fingers hovering over the "cancel call" button, but just as we were about to surrender to pontoon paranoia, the office answered!

    Salvation arrived in the form of a wonderfully helpful Harbour Master. We poured out our concerns about the Lilliputian and potentially unstable pontoons, and he, bless his nautical heart, agreed to allocate us a spot on one of the "larger" ones. A quick peek at the berthing map induced a wave of relief that could have floated a small dinghy. Yes, it was at the far end of the pontoon, promising a "brisk" (read: long) walk to the marina office, but it was also directly off the marina entrance – no complicated maneuvering required! Plus, Pepper would appreciate the extra leg stretch. A win-win (or should that be a wag-wag?) situation!

    With the next port of call firmly in our sights, we tackled those smaller boat jobs that weekend sailors perpetually defer. Nick, channeling his inner MacGyver, fashioned some rather ingenious soft shackles to keep the halliards tamed and to securely fasten the anchor to the boat – no more noisy clanking! He then embarked on a cleaning frenzy, scrubbing the coachroof, decks, and cockpit until Halcyon Sea positively gleamed. Even the dolphin seat received a thorough makeover! Only the chrome polishing remained – a task perhaps best saved for a moment of extreme boredom.

    Feeling vaguely industrious, we decided it was high time for some proper sightseeing, venturing beyond the immediate marina vicinity. The Historic Dockyard beckoned, a mere fifteen-minute stroll away. This sprawling 80-acre site promised a treasure trove of maritime history, including HMS Gannet, HM submarine Ocelot, and an RNLI Historic Lifeboat collection – all right up Nick's nautical alley. Adding a touch of unexpected glamour, the dockyard also serves as the filming location for the beloved "Call the Midwife," with tours included in the ticket price. However… we did not purchase a ticket. The reason? Let's just say the on-the-day entry fee of £32 per adult for an annual ticket induced a sharp intake of breath that could have emptied a small sail. While excellent value for repeat visitors, for our single, fleeting visit (and with Pepper's understandable exclusion from the indoor exhibits), it simply wasn't feasible especially with the limited time before closing.

    Undeterred, we continued our walk to the nearby Fort Amherst. Now, this was more budget friendly – free entry to the grounds and wonderfully dog-friendly! With an hour of opening hours remaining, there was plenty to explore of this historic site. Organised tours of the intriguing caves and tunnels were available for a small fee and boasted rave reviews, but our slightly tardy arrival meant we missed the boat (pun intended!). A much-welcomed ice cream provided a refreshing consolation prize before our return journey, thankfully mostly downhill – a blessing for our weary knees.

    A pit stop at the Dockside Shopping Centre yielded a few dinner essentials and a well-deserved pint for Nick and a glass of vino for Tracey before we ambled back to Halcyon Sea. The air fryer worked its magic on a chicken, sundowners were poured, and we retreated to the bow with our cushions for a glorious hour of tech-free tranquility, soaking in the last rays of the day. The peace was… well, insert your own suitably blissful adjective here! Our aching limbs, a gentle reminder of our nearly seven-mile trek, were a small price to pay for that moment of quiet contentment in our own little world.
    Les mer

  • Chatham Chills - A Slower Pace Prevails

    28.–29. apr., England ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Days 20 & 21: Chatham Chills and Chart Contemplations - A Slower Pace Prevails!

    Following the slightly more "energetic" arrival in Chatham, a collective decision was made: it was time for a gear change. A day or two of a more sedate pace was definitely on the cards. This lull also provided the perfect opportunity for some crucial logistical brainstorming regarding the next few weeks. With a family party in Liverpool looming in May and the details of our friend's funeral in Scotland still pending, we found ourselves needing to identify a suitable marina where we could safely leave Halcyon Sea and conveniently retrieve our trusty car.

    Out came the well-thumbed charts, and a serious planning session commenced. Our initial grand vision involved a week-long sojourn in the heart of London at St Katherine Docks. However, reality, in the form of a rather eye-watering marina quote (even for our budgeted week!), gently nudged us towards alternative destinations. Affordability for an extended stay in the capital simply wasn't in the nautical stars. So, we turned our attention to other enticing possibilities, carefully considering tidal constraints and, of course, Pepper's travel comfort. Burnham on Crouch, with a potential 7.5-hour passage, and Shotley Marina near Ipswich, a slightly longer 9.5-hour journey, emerged as frontrunners. More pondering was definitely required.

    In the meantime, boat life continued, albeit at a more leisurely tempo. Hull repair (that pontoon kiss still needed attention!), a general tidy-up, a much-needed clean, and the essential task of shopping filled our days. Yes, even amidst the adventure, the mundane rhythm of everyday life persists! So far, we've resisted the urge to stray too far from the comforting presence of Halcyon Sea, rather enjoying the feeling of our little floating home as a mobile back garden in the warm sunshine.

    Conveniently located right next to the marina is a sprawling shopping centre brimming with restaurants and bars. However, the crucial task of food shopping presents a slightly greater challenge. A ten-minute stroll offers access to a small Co-op and an Iceland, perfect for the basics but not quite conducive to what Tracey would deem a "proper shop." It's in these moments that the convenience of our former land-based existence, and particularly the freedom of our car, is keenly felt. Interestingly, just outside the marina entrance stands the striking Copper Rivet Gin Distillery, a beautiful Victorian building dating back to 1873, originally serving as a pump house for the dockyard's dry docks – a little local history with a fragrant twist and maybe worth a visit.

    On a brighter note, the riverside walks here in Chatham are truly glorious. Pepper is in her element during her morning explorations along the river path, although these outings are becoming delightfully longer each day as she insists on greeting every single canine acquaintance she encounters. Watching her joy as she bounds across the dewy grass, nose twitching with delightful scents, is simply heartwarming. We've also discovered a fantastic fenced-in park within a fifteen-minute walk, where she revels in the unbridled freedom of being off her lead – pure doggy bliss!

    The reality of full-time boat life is indeed starting to sink in, particularly for Tracey. This isn't a fleeting holiday; it's a fundamental shift in lifestyle. The inherent challenges of cramped quarters, the constant need to orchestrate movements to access even the simplest items, can be a source of low-level frustration. The feeling that our environment is perpetually on the verge of feeling "untidy" (simply because it takes so little to reach that state) can be mentally draining. Planning necessary family visits and navigating the associated logistics presents its own set of puzzles. And yes, for Tracey, the thought of leaving our little home in a strange location does play on her mind. While the initial novelty and excitement remain, the nuances of this new way of living are becoming more apparent. Adapting to a less structured environment is proving to be a journey in itself, and let's just say Tracey's inner organiser (OCD) is definitely making its presence known! However, amidst these adjustments, there's a growing sense of resilience and a quiet determination to embrace the quirks and challenges of our adventure.
    Les mer

  • Ramsgate’s Fog to Chatham’s Lock Down

    27. april, England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    From Ramsgate's Foggy Embrace to Chatham's Lock-Down (Literally!)

    Our rude awakening this morning came not from the gentle chirping of nautical birds, but the insistent blare of foghorns – nature's way of saying, "Nope, not today!" One bleary-eyed peek out revealed a marina shrouded in a pea-souper fog so thick you could have spread it on your toast. The foghorns, sounding their mournful two-minute dirge, seemed to be actively serenading us back to bed.

    After eavesdropping on some French sailors' foggy deliberations (Tracey's O level French finally proving useful!), we decided to adopt their "wait and see" approach, resetting our alarm for 8 am, albeit with the knowledge that we were sacrificing precious tidal assistance. Ramsgate to Chatham was already shaping up to be a marathon motor-sail (emphasis on the motor, the wind being characteristically unhelpful), a good ten-hour slog even with a cooperative tide.

    At 8 am, the foghorns had mercifully fallen silent. Operation "Get to Chatham Before Christmas" was back on! A brisk walk for Pepper, a hasty breakfast, a frantic tidying session and we were ready to slip our Ramsgate shackles. Permission granted by Port Control, we nudged Halcyon Sea out beyond the constraints of the harbour. We hadn’t realised that Bailey had captured our departure on his drone.

    The initial leg was deceptively pleasant. Sunshine glinted off the calm sea, illuminating the charmingly colourful beach huts of Dumpton Gap and Broadstairs. We could clearly see the headland, our gateway to the East Coast. The houses perched precariously atop the cliffs gave us pause – how much longer would the landscape remain looking this way.

    Then, as we rounded the headland, it loomed – a menacing band of fog. A quick consultation with the shipping forecast confirmed "foggy patches." How bad could a "patch" be, we naively wondered? We motored on a little further, until the coastline vanished completely, and a knot of unease began to tighten in our stomachs. Visibility plummeted. A mutual decision was made: abort mission! We executed a swift 180-degree turn. After all, we were only at the start, and pressing on into oblivion with nowhere to duck for cover seemed… unwise.

    Moments after our about-face, our ever-vigilant shore contact, Nick's son Olly, called, slightly panicked: "You're going the wrong way! Are you doing a man overboard drill?!" It was strangely reassuring to know we were being remotely monitored, even if our maneuvers looked suspiciously like a maritime emergency. We explained our foggy predicament and our temporary retreat.

    After a brief "pull yourselves together" pep talk, we donned our metaphorical "big girl pants" and turned about again. Confidence, albeit slightly forced, suggested we could handle this pea soup, but we remained ready to bail if things got truly hairy. Heading back in the correct direction (again!), we motored a little further offshore, adhering to our passage plan to avoid any unexpected encounters with shallow sandbanks. Navionics, our electronic guardian angel, displayed the whereabouts of ships with AIS, allowing us to play a high-stakes game of nautical dodgems.

    The sun began its valiant attempt to burn off the fog, and a tantalizing patch of visibility opened up before us. All clear! Safe as houses! Or so we thought. BAM! Without warning, the fog descended with the speed and stealth of a ninja, reducing visibility to a mere 60 feet – a boat and a half length. This felt decidedly less "adventure" and more "potential maritime incident."

    Then, like a spectre emerging from the gloom, the silhouette of a vast chemical tanker materialized off our port side. Relief washed over us as our navigation proved accurate, but our collective sigh was abruptly interrupted by the tanker's booming foghorn – a sound less like an "acknowledgement" and more like a sonic boom designed to induce cardiac arrest. Our nervous laughter that followed was a testament to our frayed nerves.

    This bizarre dance of clarity and near-zero visibility continued for a heart-stopping 1.5 hours. At one point, a huge vessel, over 780 feet long and 102 feet wide, passed within a mere 200 meters on our starboard side. We heard its foghorn, a deep, resonating bellow, but never actually saw it – a truly eerie experience. The fog transformed the world into a silent, grey void, the only constant the rhythmic chug of our engine. Our voices were hushed, announcing the next ghostly marker on the chart. A profound sense of loneliness and remoteness washed over us, but there was no time for existential pondering; all concentration was needed to navigate this watery purgatory, punctuated by prayers for the fog to lift. Our eyes played tricks, every hazy outline morphing into monstrous shapes – Tracey's vivid imagination was clearly in overdrive, envisioning scenes from a low-budget nautical horror film.

    And then, as suddenly as it had descended, it began to lift. We emerged from the oppressive grey into a world of hazy sunshine. But Tracey's imagination wasn't quite ready to retire. Looming ahead were strange, otherworldly formations jutting out of the sea. We'd never seen anything like them. They resembled the menacing AT-AT walkers from The Empire Strikes Back! In reality, these bizarre structures were the Shivering Sands Army Fort and, a little further on, the Red Sands Fort. These Maunsell forts, built near the Thames Estuary for anti-aircraft defense during WWII, were once interconnected towers. The Shivering Sands fort, the last of the Thames Estuary forts to be constructed, was grounded in late 1943. Three sets of these forts, named after their designer Guy Maunsell, were built in the Estuary (the Nore forts have since been demolished). After the war, the rusty sentinels were abandoned, their access ladders removed to deter trespassers. However, they became unexpected havens for pirate radio stations, with Radio Invicta and its successors broadcasting from one of the forts in the mid-1960s. While largely derelict now, a charity, Project Redsand, occasionally runs boat trips for those intrigued by these eerie relics. One fort even remains semi-habitable, with a landing gantry for visitors.

    As we entered the Thames Estuary proper, another, more sobering historical wreck came into view: the SS Richard Montgomery, a ghostly American Liberty ship built during WWII to carry vital supplies. In August 1944, laden with a terrifying cargo of approximately 7,000 tons of munitions, she joined a convoy bound for the UK and then Cherbourg. Upon arrival in the Thames Estuary, she was directed to anchor off Sheerness. Tragically, on August 20th, 1944, she dragged her anchor in the shallow water and grounded on a sandbank, lying precariously close to the Medway approach channel. While efforts to unload her began, a fatal crack appeared in her hull, and the forward end flooded. Salvage efforts continued until late September, by which point only about half the cargo had been removed. The vessel then completely flooded, and the salvage operation was abandoned. Her masts remain eerily visible above the water at all tide levels, a constant, silent reminder of the estimated 1,400 tons of explosives still entombed within her forward holds. History lesson over – and perhaps best not dwelled upon too much!

    The pretty bays with their colourful beach huts had faded and made way for a more industrious landscape as we were now amongst busier shipping lanes in Thames Estuary.

    Finally, we entered the winding embrace of the River Medway, racing against the dwindling tide to reach the lock entrance for Chatham. It was going to be a close call. We called the marina and were granted permission to enter the lock, instructed to move as far forward as possible to accommodate a small motorboat following us in. Tracey, blissfully unaware of the critical depth readings Nick was monitoring, experienced a surge of (okay, a lot of) panic as it appeared we were heading directly for the lock gate, not the lock itself. In her calmest (read: slightly high-pitched) voice, she "encouraged" Nick to turn. Meanwhile, Nick, battling his own rising anxiety with a mere 0.1 meters of water beneath our keel, was hesitant to make any sudden maneuvers for fear of grounding. But we made it! The lock gates closed behind us, and the water surged in with surprising ferocity, sending Halcyon Sea bobbing around like a cork in a bathtub. We quickly tamed her with a forward spring line attached to the midship cleat. Directions to our berth followed, another tight squeeze next to a rather imposing powerboat, further testing Nick's docking prowess.

    With the boat finally secured, Tracey practically sprinted Pepper ashore for a long-overdue potty break. A celebratory (and slightly shaky) drink followed, a toast to surviving our foggy odyssey. Dinner at Wagamama's provided the perfect setting to recount the day's bizarre and slightly terrifying events. Utterly relieved, content, and completely shattered, an early night was non-negotiable. We think a couple of days in Chatham to catch our breath might be in order. After all, this isn't a race…
    Les mer

  • The Home for "smack boys"
    View of the marina from Royal Temple Yacht ClubLighthouse at Ramsgate harbour entranceImpressive Silverware collection at RTYC

    Ramsgate Repairs & Dodging Dark Tunnels

    26. april, England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Ramsgate Repairs, Dodging Dark Tunnels (and Dodgy Pubs?), and a Drone Farewell!

    Our grand plans for a day of leisurely Ramsgate sightseeing vanished faster than a free pint at happy hour. The culprit? That pesky pontoon kiss from yesterday. To properly address the minor gel coat casualty on Halcyon Sea’s bow, it turned out our bed once again needed a full-scale deconstruction. Apparently, the boat-repair toolkit resides in the most inconveniently accessible location imaginable – directly beneath our sleeping sanctuary.

    However, every cloud has a slightly damp, condensation-related lining! This unexpected boat surgery did provide a prime opportunity to air out the forepeak. Sleeping in such close quarters, especially with the recent chilly weather, has created its own microclimate of condensation. Being gently dripped on by the blind that covers the hatch in the dead of night is not exactly our preferred wake-up call. It's less "gentle rain" and more "mildly irritating boat tears."

    By the time Halcyon Sea was back to her (mostly) normal self, with our bed reassembled in a feat of nautical engineering, the clock had ticked past 3 pm. This left a mere hour before our planned tourist destination, the Ramsgate Tunnels, that slammed its subterranean doors at 4 pm. Tracey, truth be told, let out a sigh of relief. Another place shrouded in darkness, potentially filled with mannequins designed to induce heart palpitations, wasn't exactly topping her list of must-see attractions.

    Instead, we opted for a less spooky exploration of Ramsgate town with Pepper in tow. Our first discovery was the UK's largest Wetherspoon pub. Now, we're not averse to a good Spoons, but their strict no-dog policy meant we couldn't sample its reported vastness. Judging by the slightly glazed expressions of some patrons exiting, perhaps our canine companion inadvertently saved us from a truly "epic" experience. The town itself was bustling with Saturday energy, and the faint strains of live music drifted from one of the waterfront venues, though its exact location remained a delightful mystery. The usual array of high street shops lined the streets, but as is often the case these days, the crowds were… well, let's just say the tumbleweeds were probably having a day off elsewhere.

    Our wanderings led us past a rather intriguing building: The Ramsgate Home for Smack Boys! Established in 1881, this institution provided shelter and support for young apprentices, some as young as ten, who worked on the large sailing fishing boats called "smacks" that fished out of Ramsgate Harbour. Imagine a childhood of physically demanding labour on the often-treacherous seas – injury and even death were grim realities. The home was the vision of Canon Eustace Brenan, the vicar of Christ Church in Ramsgate, who sought to offer both spiritual guidance and practical assistance to these vulnerable "smack boys." Over time, the home's purpose evolved, extending its care to shipwrecked sailors from the Goodwin Sands and later providing refuge for survivors of the First World War – a testament to its enduring spirit of compassion.

    After a boat-cooked dinner, we ventured back to the Royal Temple Sailing Club for a quick nightcap. The atmosphere was… intimate. We were the only patrons besides the friendly barman, Bailey. He shared some of the challenges the club faces in attracting new members, particularly the younger generation – a familiar tale for clubs across the land, it seems. We recounted stories from our own club in Fareham, finding solidarity in shared experiences. Mentioning our planned early departure for Chatham, the barman, a surprisingly early riser and drone enthusiast, offered to capture some aerial footage of our exit – a rather novel and much-appreciated farewell!

    With a 5:30 am alarm set, driven by the need to make the most of the tide for what promised to be another long day on the water, an early night was definitely in order. We drifted off to sleep, the gentle rolling in the marina against Halcyon Sea rocking us to sleep. We are hopeful that tomorrow's early start will bring smoother sailing (both literally and figuratively!).
    Les mer

  • Farewell Dover, Hello Ramsgate

    25. april, England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Farewell Dover (and Our Nerves!), Hello Ramsgate (and a Gentle Kiss with a Pontoon!)

    The moment had arrived. Time to bid adieu to Dover, a port that, despite its friendly inhabitants, had instilled a healthy dose of "leaving a busy shipping lane" anxiety within our nautical souls. The air aboard Halcyon Sea was thick with a quiet focus as we prepared for departure, each lost in our own pre-sail rituals. Nick, ever the diligent captain, busied himself on deck, penning the day's log, while Tracey, still vividly recalling the saloon's airborne antics of our last passage, meticulously stowed every conceivable item below – determined to avoid a repeat performance of the "flying chopping board of doom."

    We mentally ran through our exit strategy: the precise moment to call Dover VTS, the designated route out of the Eastern entrance. Adding to the slightly comedic tension, a fellow sailor berthed astern, also making his escape, ended up tailing us out. While his prior experience in these waters might have been reassuring in reverse, we hoped our carefully laid plans would suffice.

    Radio chatter commenced. Permission to slip our lines was granted, followed by the instruction to call again at the end pontoon. Check. Permission to leave the outer marina entrance followed swiftly. Hallelujah! The ferries that had seemed to barricade our exit miraculously parted like the Red Sea (albeit at a slightly faster pace), and as we reached the southerly cardinal buoy, we made our final call to Dover VTS. A brief hold inside the breakwater by the Knuckle lighthouse was requested, to allow an incoming ferry to pass. The ferry whooshed by, and then came the magic words: "Leave at your best speed." You didn't need to tell us twice!

    The exit, surprisingly, proved far less daunting than our nerve-wracking entrance. A collective sigh of relief swept through Halcyon Sea as we finally pointed our bow eastwards, the iconic White Cliffs of Dover standing proud to our starboard. We queried the name White Cliffs, as they were decidedly dirty and scattered with green mosses and grass, coming to the conclusion that they must be photoshopped for films. Evidence of the cliffs' slow but steady crumble was everywhere – piles of chalk rubble at their base contrasting with the brilliant white of newly exposed rock.

    Today's journey was a mere hop, skip, and a jump in nautical terms – a breezy 2.5 hours. Alas, the wind remained stubbornly on our nose, relegating us to a motor-powered cruise along the Kent coastline. We opted for the inner passage of the Goodwin Sands, those infamous sandbanks lying just four miles offshore, stretching ten miles between Ramsgate and St Margaret's Bay. Varying in width and reaching depths of around 80 feet, these underwater behemoths reveal their sandy tops twice daily at low tide, with vast expanses of the upper ten feet becoming exposed. Today, however, with the tide high, the Goodwin Sands remained a hidden, watery realm. Their history is a sobering one, with the first recorded shipwreck dating back to 1298 and a staggering 2,000 more reported since – though the actual figure is estimated to be double that! The area is a watery graveyard of protected wrecks, including the Admiral Gardner and the Rooswijk, as well as four Royal Navy warships lost in the Great Storm of 1703, claiming 1,200 lives. Strong tidal currents constantly shift the sands, both tantalizing and frustrating archaeologists and divers, covering and uncovering historical sites. These ghostly remains are carefully monitored by Historic England, their preservation a delicate dance with the ever-moving seabed. Adding to the maritime drama, over 80 vessels, including steamships and even German U-boats, were sunk here during the two World Wars. Thankfully, Tracey remained blissfully ignorant of this rather dramatic history lesson until we reached the relative safety of Ramsgate!

    Soon enough, the time came to veer from our easterly course and point Halcyon Sea towards Ramsgate. Following our carefully studied plan, we spotted the buoys guiding us towards the harbour entrance. A quick call to Ramsgate Port Control on channel 14 for permission to enter, followed by a chat on channel 80 with the marina for berthing instructions. Their succinct guidance: "Anywhere you like on pontoons E or F, the longer pontoons have cleats in the middle." This implied that the pontoons were not that long and we opted for a central pontoon with a middle cleat. Clearly their definition of long and ours differed considerably!

    With the tide and wind seemingly engaged in a vigorous wrestling match within the marina, we picked our spot and cautiously approached. A little nudge of power was needed to swing the bow around, but perhaps we were a tad overenthusiastic with the throttle. Bang! A rather undignified kiss with the pontoon ensued, resulting in a small but noticeable chunk of gel coat departing the bow of Halcyon Sea. Ah, the glamour of sailing! It's not always sunsets and smooth waters, is it?

    Tied up and with Pepper happily scampering ashore for a much-needed leg stretch, we surveyed the damage. Nick, ever the optimist, is confident he can perform a temporary repair that will suffice until we can get it properly looked at. The marina itself appeared to be in need of some TLC, with broken pontoons scattered around (perhaps unsurprisingly given the boisterous conditions). It seemed particularly geared towards the fishing fleet. However, the people we've encountered so far have been genuinely friendly, a definite plus!

    We ventured to the Royal Temple Yacht Club, where a lively quiz night, presided over by the Commodore, was in full swing. A pleasant surprise awaited us – we bumped into Tony and Sue, the couple we'd met back in the Royal Cinque Ports Yacht Club in Dover! We joined their table, put our general knowledge to the test (with varying degrees of success!), and shared a good laugh, even jokingly discussing a potential reunion in Chatham, our next stop before the bright lights of London. A well-deserved pizza fueled our return to Halcyon Sea, where we spent the evening plotting and planning for the days ahead. Tomorrow is earmarked for more boat maintenance (that gel coat isn't going to magically repair itself!) and hopefully a little Ramsgate sightseeing, provided the boat jobs don't consume the entire day. This sailing lark, we're learning, is a constant balancing act between adventure and the less glamorous, but essential, realities of boat ownership!
    Les mer

  • Nav Lights & Museum Marvels

    24. april, England ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Nav Lights, Museum Marvels, and a Brush with Dover Fame (Almost!)

    Today was a curious blend of practicalities and poignant reflection. While the emotional weight of yesterday lingered, the ever-present demands of boat life and the ticking clock of the tides kept us moving forward. The morning was dedicated to essential admin and, crucially, boat maintenance. Our recalcitrant navigation lights were top priority. Arriving in Dover under the cloak of dusk had been a stark reminder that these small but vital pieces of equipment are non-negotiable for our safety. Thankfully, Nick, now convinced of his newfound electrical prowess, traced the issue to a loose connection and a blown bulb. A bit of rewiring, a clean-up, and a fresh bulb later, we were illuminated once more!

    Tracey, meanwhile, decided to indulge in the shower facilities at Dover Marina. These were a pleasant surprise – modern, clean, and boasting the unexpected bonus of free hairdryers in the ladies' room! However, a slight heart-stopping moment occurred when the motion-sensor lights decided to take an unscheduled break mid-shower. For those acquainted with Tracey's mild (okay, perhaps slightly more than mild) fear of the dark, this was a potentially traumatic experience. Thankfully, it was daytime, and a sliver of natural light filtered into the building, preventing a full-blown, ghostly streaking incident across the marina! Later, while paying for our extended stay, Tracey recounted her illuminating experience to the marina staff, painting a vivid picture of a potential nighttime dash that would have undoubtedly caused quite a stir.

    During a solo stroll with Pepper while Nick wrestled with paperwork back on board, Tracey had a rather unexpected brush with local fame. A reporter from the local news approached her, keen to get her thoughts on the area with the upcoming council elections looming. Tracey was rather glad she'd made the effort with her hair that morning! Alas, her moment in the spotlight was swiftly extinguished by the fact that she was merely a visitor and therefore unable to offer any insightful commentary. Dover, it turns out, is undergoing a significant regeneration project with ambitious plans stretching to 2050. The Dover Harbour Board owns those prominent white buildings along the waterfront, currently housing not only the Royal Cinque Ports Yacht Club but also a hotel/wedding venue and numerous bars. The long-term vision involves reclaiming these buildings for luxury apartments and further expanding the port to accommodate increased ferry traffic and trade – the very reason for the yacht club's impending move. This transformation will undoubtedly add another layer to Dover's already rich history, welcomed by some and viewed with a degree of nostalgia by others, as is often the case with such significant changes.

    In the afternoon, we decided to immerse ourselves in that rich history with a visit to the Dover Museum. The star attraction, and for good reason, is the remarkably preserved Bronze Age boat discovered in Dover in 1992. Thought to be around 3,500 years old, this prehistoric vessel was unearthed by construction workers during the building of the A20 road link between Folkestone and Dover. An internationally significant archaeological find, it underwent seven years of meticulous research and conservation before taking pride of place in the museum. While the boat is undeniably the largest exhibit, the museum's impressive collection of other artifacts did not disappoint, offering a fascinating journey through Dover's past, from Saxon and Roman times to World War II, with insightful displays charting the evolution of the harbour over the centuries. We spent a captivating few hours exploring its treasures.

    Later that evening, we turned our attention to tomorrow's plans for our departure from Dover and our passage to Ramsgate. With the route now more clearly visualised in her mind, Tracey felt a renewed sense of confidence. The anticipation for our next leg was building, tempered by the knowledge that we were slowly but surely finding our rhythm in this extraordinary life afloat.
    Les mer

  • Dover Reflections, and a Heavy Heart

    23. april, England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Dover Reflections, Yacht Club Tales, and a Heavy Heart

    This morning dawned with a gentle invitation to slow down. Still recovering from the intensity of our Dover arrival, we embraced a lazy start, allowing ourselves time to process the events of the previous day. We sat together, the gentle rock of Halcyon Sea a soothing rhythm, reflecting on the lessons learned from our first real passage. The conclusions we reached, while perhaps self-evident to seasoned sailors, were important milestones for us. Tracey acknowledged the need for greater involvement in passage planning, recognizing that a deeper understanding of the day's overall strategy would undoubtedly ease any anxieties. We also agreed that our onboard communication could benefit from some fine-tuning – clear and concise dialogue is paramount when navigating both close quarters and challenging seas. And the flying chopping board incident served as a rather dramatic reminder of the importance of meticulous pre-departure stowage! A heavy wooden projectile hurtling across the saloon is definitely an "adventure" we'd prefer to avoid.

    Having gathered our thoughts (and a few stray items), we ventured ashore for a walk into the heart of Dover. Our destination: the Royal Cinque Ports Yacht Club, a venerable institution where we hoped to soak up some local maritime flavour. We enjoyed a refreshing drink and a tasty roll, striking up conversations with some of the club's welcoming members. They regaled us with tales of the club's upcoming move from its current historic premises to a new building on Marina Curve. It was fascinating to hear about their efforts to meticulously document the history of their current home, photographing each room as it stands. They even spoke with fondness of preserving tangible pieces of the past, hoping to salvage a carpet adorned with the club's emblem (a generous donation from a former commodore) and a beautiful stained-glass door bearing their badge.

    As it was St. George's Day, the club was offering a rather tempting special: a drink, a hearty beef roll, and a traditional hot cross bun for a mere £10 – a true bargain! We shared stories of our own sailing club back in Fareham, finding common ground in the camaraderie of the sailing community. The Dover members generously offered invaluable advice on departing their busy port and suggested the best routes for our next leg to Ramsgate. Our stroll around town was somewhat curtailed by Pepper's presence, limiting our ability to explore the main tourist attractions. However, the simple pleasure of stretching our legs and soaking in the local atmosphere was enough.

    Returning to Halcyon Sea, the aroma of a simmering curry soon filled the cozy saloon as we discussed our plans for tomorrow. We decided to extend our stay in Dover by another day. A couple of boat maintenance tasks needed our attention, most notably our temperamental navigation lights. Additionally, the wind forecast didn't look particularly favourable for a comfortable passage. Friday, however, held more promise, so we opted for a slightly delayed departure.

    As the evening drew to a close, a shadow of sadness fell upon our little floating world. We received the news that Tracey's dear friend, Alistair McLaughlin, had passed away that morning. Alistair, affectionately known as "Storky," was a towering figure in the sailing community, not just in Scotland and his local haunts but across the entire UK. He was an inspiration to so many, selflessly sharing his vast knowledge and helping countless sailors, in his own unique and often quirky way, to hone their skills on the water.

    The picture we share today is a cherished memory of Tracey hiking out on an ISO dinghy, with a typically focused Alistair at the helm. Tracey had lost her confidence on the water after a difficult experience, and it was Alistair, with his no-nonsense attitude and unwavering belief in her, who helped her rediscover her love for sailing. This particular photo captures a joyful moment during one of our early cadet sailing adventures, a "pirate raid" from Prestwick to Troon, culminating in a well-deserved treat of fish and chips on the beach for everyone. Such happy days, filled with laughter and the thrill of the wind and waves.

    Alistair was a highly respected sailor across numerous classes, but during Tracey's time in Scotland, his true love was the RS300. Tracey fondly remembers watching him maneuver the boat with an almost balletic grace, carving through the water as if he were skiing. He was an incredible talent to witness and a formidable competitor, amassing a remarkable collection of trophies up and down the country. He will be deeply and sorely missed by a vast network of friends and fellow sailors. Our thoughts and deepest condolences go out to his family and loved ones during this difficult time.

    Fair winds and following seas, Storky. Sail on.
    Les mer

  • Hastings PierDungeness Power StationDover Castle view from harbour entranceExiting the lock at EastbourneLeaving EastbourneFolkestone and Dover harbours in the distance

    Setting Sail for Dover

    22. april, England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Setting Sail for Dover - Sunshine, Sea Surfing, and a Few Pre-Port Jitters!

    The day dawned bright and breezy, a picture-perfect start to our passage to Dover. Tracey and Pepper embarked on their usual morning stroll, the rhythmic pounding of paws on the promenade perhaps mirroring the nervous energy Tracey was walking off. Meanwhile, Nick was a hive of activity aboard Halcyon Sea, meticulously prepping everything for our departure. By 10 am, our planned time to slip the lines, a palpable sense of anticipation filled the air.

    We eased away from our berth and waited our turn at the fuel pontoon, topping up our tanks before heading for the lock gates and the open sea. Our little Pepper, usually a breakfast enthusiast, seemed to sense the shift in the atmosphere. Her appetite had vanished, a clear indication that she knew a journey was imminent. We're still working on the elusive art of boat-based potty breaks for her; her current strategy seems to involve a strategic refusal of food and water! To help her relax, we administered her calming treats, which usually lull her into a peaceful slumber for most of the voyage.

    And then, it was time. We exited the lock and motored out into the English Channel. Once safely past the safe water mark and after a careful scan to ensure no pesky lobster pots lay in wait, Tracey turned Halcyon Sea 180 degrees, pointing her into the gentle breeze. Up went the sails, catching the wind with a satisfying whoosh, and there we were, finally sailing towards the iconic white cliffs of Dover!

    The familiar coastline of Pevensey Bay, Bexhill, and Hastings slid past, each a marker of our eastward progress. The rolling green hills gradually gave way to a more rugged outline. Rounding the headland at Hastings, a glance astern revealed Beachy Head as a distant speck on the horizon, while ahead, the hazy form of Dungeness began to emerge. Halcyon Sea handled beautifully, and despite sailing slightly off our intended track due to the wind's playful nudges, we were making excellent time. The sun shone down, and we even enjoyed a bit of wave surfing, the boat gliding smoothly over the swells. Our initial worries began to ebb away with the miles.

    In the distance, the unmistakable silhouette of Dungeness Power Station loomed, a stark contrast to the natural beauty of the coastline. The steady stream of ships in the shipping channel served as a reminder of the busy waterway we were now sharing. Soon, the inevitable moment arrived: a gybe! We prepared for the maneuver, and thankfully, it went smoothly. However, with the boat now more beam-on to the sea, the ride became noticeably bumpier. The water swirled around us, giving us a rather corkscrew-like motion from the stern quarter. It was a swift reminder that our stowage skills still needed some refinement as a few rogue items took flight across the saloon – a mental note for future voyages! Pepper, a little concerned by the sudden change in motion, came seeking a reassuring cuddle before settling back down. A distant cluster of lobster pots prompted us to heighten our vigilance, both pairs of eyes scanning the water ahead. Nick's steady hand on the helm soon had Halcyon Sea, and consequently us, settling into the rhythm of the new sea state.

    Folkestone harbour and the outer breakwater of Dover gradually appeared on the distant horizon. With around four hours still to go until we reached our destination, our minds began to race with the logistics of entering a busy port. The wind had picked up, and with the late afternoon chill setting in (still April!), we wrapped up warmer and put on some upbeat tunes to keep our spirits high.

    Two miles from Dover Harbour, protocol dictates a call to Dover VTS to announce our intentions. Ours was to enter the harbour, not just pass by. Nick made the call, his voice calm and clear. Tracey, who had been surprisingly composed throughout the journey thus far, suddenly felt a wave of nervousness wash over her. Despite her complete trust in Nick's meticulous planning, she felt like a complete novice. We were still sailing, and the moment to drop the sails was fast approaching. With the wind now behind us and the sea a little more erratic, Tracey's mind was a whirlwind of forgotten procedures. We ran through the harbour entrance plan, the theory clear, but the unpredictable nature of the sea amplified Tracey's self-doubt. The advice was to call Dover VTS again when 200 meters from the harbour entrance to request permission to enter. As if to underscore the maritime activity, the Dover lifeboat was just outside the breakwater on a practice exercise – a reassuring sight, Tracey thought, should anything go awry.

    The time came to turn Halcyon Sea head to wind to drop the sails. While the sea state wasn't particularly rough, to Tracey, it felt like we were being thoroughly stirred, a decidedly uncomfortable sensation. Sails stowed and permission granted to enter the harbour, we made our way through the breakwater. The water within the confines looked deceptively calmer. Once inside, the final call to Dover VTS was permission to enter the yacht marina. Once granted, a sharp turn to the left and a call to the marina for our berth assignment was made. We were so close!

    The marina staff directed us to berth F147, port side to, meaning fenders and ropes needed to be on the left. Tired from the journey and the emotional rollercoaster, Tracey struggled with the weight of the fenders and ropes, failing to secure the spring line properly. The wind was pushing us away from the pontoon, and Tracey couldn't quite make the jump. After two unsuccessful attempts, Nick made the wise decision to call the marina and request the vacant berth on the other side of the pontoon. What followed was a less-than-graceful reverse into our new spot. Successful, yes, but certainly not our smoothest docking.

    In that moment, Tracey jokingly (but with a hint of seriousness) declared her readiness to trade the seafaring life for a motorhome. Tears welled up as she took a very relieved Pepper for a much-needed walk ashore. Tracey then visited the marina office to pay our dues and collect the essential access key cards and marina guide. Finally, at 8:45 pm, the siren call of fish and chips was answered. Exhausted, exhilarated, and profoundly relieved, we devoured our supper before collapsing into bed. The journey was complete. We had travelled for 10 hours and 20 minutes and 9 of those hours had been under sail, that felt like an achievement itself. Dover had been conquered.
    Les mer

  • Eastbourne Farewells

    20.–21. apr., England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Farewells, Feasts and the Looming White Cliffs of Dover!

    Our final few days in sunny Eastbourne were a delightful whirlwind of socialising and practical preparations, a gentle easing into the next chapter of our adventure. The social calendar remained happily full with more visits and welcoming friends aboard Halcyon Sea. Sunday brought the absolute treat of a home-cooked roast lamb dinner courtesy of Val – a culinary highlight and a small family gathering that truly felt like a proper Sunday feast.

    Monday was dedicated to those last-minute chores that required the invaluable assistance of Sophie's car. Errands were run, final bits of shopping were secured, and then it was time for a slightly bittersweet journey to the RBL club in Polegate to meet the Millers returning from their trip away. There, we returned Sophie's trusty chariot with heartfelt thanks and said our final farewells, immensely grateful for their generosity which had truly transformed our weekend mobility.

    As the Eastbourne sun began to dip below the horizon on Monday evening, a more serious task took centre stage. Nick dedicated himself to the intricate art of passage planning for our forthcoming journey. The destination? Dover. Just the name itself carried a certain weight. After all, this wasn't just another hop along the coast; this was our venture into the unknown (at least for us!), our first foray into waters beyond our previous sailing experience. And our first port of call? The UK's busiest ferry port!

    Yes, a certain flutter of… let's call it "pre-Dover butterflies" had begun to take flight. That familiar hum of nervous anticipation started to resonate within us. The comfort of Eastbourne, the friendly faces, the relative ease of marina life – all were about to be exchanged for the bustling reality of a major shipping channel. Would we navigate the ferry traffic with the grace of seasoned mariners or resemble slightly bewildered ducks in a very busy pond? Only time would tell!

    Despite the underlying nerves, a sense of excitement also bubbled beneath the surface. This was it – the real deal! We were finally venturing into truly new territory, each nautical mile a step further into our grand adventure. Eastbourne had been a fantastic stepping stone, a place to reconnect and prepare, but the lure of the open sea and the promise of new horizons were growing ever stronger. So, while those pre-Dover jitters might be doing a little jig in our stomachs, they are accompanied by a healthy dose of anticipation and the unwavering spirit of adventure. Bring on Dover – we think!
    Les mer