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My Camino
  • Sara Shelbourn
  • Sara Shelbourn

My Camino

A 3687-day adventure by Sara Read more
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  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 24 walking!

    June 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We left Molinaseca with a chill wind in the air but it soon warmed up. We initially walked the 6km along quiet roads into historic Ponferrada which is major city with cathedral and castle fortifications. We managed to avoid most of the new urban parts of town. We did make a pit stop on way in and for the first time I noticed rugby posts, so I took a photo of them for you David!
    The old part of town had lovely cobbled streets and open plaza’s, and lots of interesting features, I love their outdoor exercise equipment! We were so busy chatting, we managed to lose the way markers and had to search them out!
    It wasn’t too hard to find the Camino or the ‘way of St James’ again, especially when helpful locals point it out to you!
    The way was mainly gentle gradients today and we seemed to be walking both parallel and towards mountains so fabulous panoramic views! Plus we’re passing lots of vineyards, but none open as it’s a Sunday. We passed through some lovely quaint villages, and after about 25 Km I decided to take the bus for the last 5Km, I had previously checked out the bus times at the local tourist office!
    We’re staying at lovely modern Albergue Viña Femita in Villafranca del Bierzo, which also has fortifications, haven’t had time or energy to explore it! And my toe seems ok with the walking today 😊    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 25 walking!

    June 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Last nights Albergue in Villafranca is only 2 years old as previous building was destroyed in a fire, the owner was telling me this morning, very sad and traumatic to lose your family home in such a manner. Being modern, it’s a tranquil oasis with lawn and water feature in front and with no bunk beds - hooray!! Ordinary single beds with sheets 😊 (as opposed to sleeping bag!) in 10 bed dorm, photo added.
    As we’re in the mountains, it was little cool as we left and walked out of town but soon warmed up. The way followed the river, Rio Valcarce, flowing along the valley floor close to the main road, but as most traffic now uses the new motorway, the main road is quiet. I chose the more direct flatter route but Fiona opted for the green mountain route for part of the way, she’s gluten for punishment! So we ended up walking separately today as we didn’t quite coordinate meeting up. There are always people to walk with if you want to and I chatted to father and son walking together from Australia (Melbourne) originally from India, for an hour or so this morning, then a Spanish couple from Barcelona, all lovely interesting people.
    Walking through the valley and passing through various villages, there are forested mountains in every direction, blue sky, gurgling river and nature. I saw couple of French ladies picking wild alpine strawberries at the edge of the road this morning, and yesterday a chap was helping himself to cherries from trees lining the road as he walked!
    The path gently wound uphill slightly and there was a great view of the new mountain motorway, quite a feat of engineering!
    The last third of the walk started to go uphill much more steeply, past alpine meadows and the sound of cow bells in high pastures. As the sun was high, it was quite a slog to get to our destination of Albergue La Escuela in Laguna de Castille after 28km. And then our backpacks weren’t here! the van had broken down, they arrived couple of hours later. We’re very rural here, and the Albergue is the local village bar/restaurant and we were eating when we heard a dozen cows with bells, being herded up the road, they seemed very compliant cows!
    My toe is faring very well but unfortunately I’ve developed a blister on ball of left foot but it’s occupational hazard and won’t last long with Compeed etc.    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 26 walking!

    June 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We left our Albergue this morning to finish the last few Km to the top of the mountain, and passed from Castilla y León into Galicia. We reached the top in the cool of the morning, and were greeted by local playing the bagpipes which was unexpected but rather nice. At the top we had stunning views of mountains in all directions. We were above the morning mist (or low cloud?) and so the mountain tops looked like they were floating on the mist, not sure the photos do it justice! The village at the top O’Cebreiro, had old cobbled streets and building including thatched roofs and had artisan shops. Last night we were at 1,150m altitude and the top is 1,330m. The way then took us through a village and to another peak (San Roque) at 1,270m, again just stunning panoramic views! The way meandered and took us to yet another peak Alto do Poie at 1,335m which was quite an arduous climb! But what goes up must come down and we started the slow descent down to Triacastela at 675m. The path took us through farming villages and past munching or dozing cows with cow bells, and lots of alpine meadows and wild flowers including bluebells, obviously flowering later due to the altitude, and giant slugs! The way also took us past an 800 year old chestnut tree with lots twists and turns, very gnarled.
    So last night we were in bunks and again tonight in Albergue Horta de Able. It was only (?!) 23 Km today but the inclines made it hard work!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 27 walking!

    June 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    So today’s walk was shorter at just 18km and very pleasant. We left our Albergue in the cool of the early morning with a heavy dew on the grass and passing cows happily grazing, another photo for you Colette, and there is a calf just visible laying down in the long grass!
    The way climbed to a peak of 910m from 680m at Triacastela and was mixture of shady and dappled, and disappointingly, there was not much view from the top as trees were everywhere blocking the view. Then we started the both steep and meandering descent through few villages and hamlets, dodging the cow pats and generally appreciating the rural ideal. The theoretical simple life of a farmer is appealing, but I imagine the reality is somewhat different and harder!
    Near the bottom of the descent was a Domitivo, a pop up food and drink place where pilgrims can help themselves and leave a donation for the local running it. It was also a yoga place offering meditation and inner journey courses …. but hippy like … plus eco or ‘natural’ toilets - first for everything!!!
    Fiona has a bad back and wanted to power on up the hill fast so we ended up walking separately today, which is fine, in fact it’s peacefully tranquil walking by yourself in such glorious setting. The way undulated through forest tracks sometimes a little tricky to navigate and mostly in the shade, except for last few Km which was by the road. Our destination wasSarria, a relatively large town just before the last 100 Km to Santiago. A lot of pilgrims join the Camino here as you need to complete the last 100 Km to achieve your Compestela.
    We’re staying in nice Albergue in a private twin room with bathroom - heaven!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 28 walking!

    June 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    There was a very fine drizzle or mizzle and mist as we left Sarria this morning and started the climb up out of town. The way started on country lanes and then moved to forest tracks with plenty of shade. We did notice more large groups of people walking today including school or college age groups walking, probably starting in Sarria.
    The morning mist cleared after couple of hours and the drizzle stopped. It was fairly cloudy most of the day, but did warm up to about 24/25 degrees. The most exciting part of today was passing the 100km to Santiago marker!! We’re really on the home straight now!
    The way led through villages and hamlets, and saw cows en route and a chicken walking along the road plus horses and a dog who was happy to lay down in the middle of the quiet road! The way moved back onto country lanes as we then walked down into our destination Portomarin after about 23.5 Km. This village/town was flooded to build a dam and create a lake/reservoir and the church and a number of other older buildings were taken apart, numbered and rebuilt up the hill and now sit in a more modern setting, quite an endeavour!
    We're in fairly modern Albergue, best bit no bunks and sheets and towels included, in a room for 3. Also had very nice Galician octopus on bed of boiled potatoes, so decided to include photo!
    Seem to have grown more blisters today, not sure why!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 29 walking!

    June 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We left Portomarín and there was again a morning mist or low cloud and we followed the way gently uphill. Again the mist cleared after couple of hours and it was mainly cloudy and warm with the sun making an occasional appearance! We walked 27 Km through forest track sometimes, but the majority of the walking was either next to or on the road, asphalt is tough on the feet! The countryside was mainly agricultural and we went through number of hamlets as the path went up and down. We passed number of unusual structures on stilts used for storing grain and called Horreos.
    So as there are now more people walking, we also have more cafes and places to stop en route, which is good and we took advantage of this fact today!
    We’re in a small old fashioned type Albergue tonight and back to bunks! We’re in village called Palas de Rei in Albergue Casina di Marcello. The host is an Italian chap Marcello, who after walking the Camino, upped sticks and moved to Spain to open an Albergue 2 years ago in a former prison! And when he closes the Albergue in November, he goes and walks a Camino and he’s done 12 so far, lots of different ones. He proudly cooked nice communal Italian meal for us all.
    Blisters still painful but not much longer now!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Day 30 walking!

    June 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So we left Palas de Rei with grey threatening clouds and then it rained about an hour, but it was more of a drizzle and as we were under tree cover, it was not a major problem and only lasted hour or so. But it did make the air very humid. The way was very up and down today and in fact we covered six shallow river valleys mostly on forest paths but also on country roads too. They seem to farm Eucalyptus trees here and we passed rows and rows of these trees at differing stages of growth, some extremely tall.
    The way also took us through a town called Melide which is renowned for its octopus pulpo Gallega, so we stopped for lunch there with a Costa Rican chap we had been chatting to as we walked along, and it was delicious!
    A few photos including animals seen today plus a wren eating a grasshopper! It’s an agricultural region with lovely villages and old bridges and building.
    It was nearly 27 Km to our destination of Albergue Los Caminantes at village called Ribadiso de Baixo, and we have very welcome private twin room 😊 in quite modern place with our own outside (stable!) door, almost like a motel.
    Today I switched from sandals back to walking shoes. The walking sandals were fine on the flat and going uphill, but I think they were giving me blisters going downhill. The walking shoes have more support and were fine today, but it was a long way and my feet were tired by the time we got here, but now less than 50 Km to Santiago!! We should be there on Monday 😊    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 31 walking!

    June 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    So penultimate day of walking 22 Km to our destination of village called A Rua.
    We set off under grey threatening clouds but didn’t rain but there was a chill wind in the air and it stayed mostly cloudy.
    The way started up hill to Arzúa and had breakfast there. There were some gentle ups and downs but not too taxing, and along country paths and roads at times, even over an empty motorway!
    The land seems more cultivated and busier as we get closer to Santiago. We only have about 22 Km to walk tomorrow but it’s around the airport and likely to be more urban and busier. I’m quite tired and bit weary now, so will be pleased to finish tomorrow and my feet will definitely be happier!!!
    We’re in a modern Albergue and it’s our last night in bunks 😊
    David is flying into Santiago tomorrow evening so I’m looking forward to seeing him and staying in a hotel too!    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 32 walking into Santiago!

    June 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    So we left our Albergue Espiritu Xacebeo early this morning for our final walk, the sky was blue and the sun was out but there was a chill in the air and windy at times!
    We initially walked through forest tracks and uphill to walk around the airport. It was a strange and elated feeling to be walking for the last day on the Camino. There were groups of youngster walking who were fairly vocal singing and enjoying themselves. In fact the way in was fairly green and did switch to country lanes, and then turned more urban for the last 7Km or so. There was lovely viewing point on the way in and you can just make out the twin towers of Santiago cathedral.
    It was strange to finally arrive here and we did have little trouble locating the front of the cathedral (?!) and the pilgrims office. Of course we located them and proudly obtained our Compostela! The square in front of the cathedral was full of celebrating pilgrims and quite a festive atmosphere 😊
    David arrived safely and we had lovely meal the three of us together. We have day trip tomorrow to the coast or end of the world Finistere, then David and I bus down to Porto Wednesday morning and then into Lisbon to meet old school friends on Friday for some proper R and R!
    Big thank you for all your likes, comments, support and following me for last month or so - truly appreciated 😘😘😘    Read more

  • Sara ShelbournMy CaminoTraveler

    Final instalment!

    June 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Thanks for all your lovely comments 🥰
    I thought I would just add the photos from our day trip to the coast, which was relaxing and so nice to be driven … rather than walking! Although I’m so generally tired I did nod off on the coach!
    We stopped first at a fishing village Muros en route, and then at an impressive waterfall into the sea, this is because the sea has ingressed known as rias, and there are many of them along this coastline. Then we went to the ‘end of the world’ or Finisterre cape where there is a lighthouse and the 0 Km way marker as it is believed that this is where St James was last seen alive, although all other way markers count down to Santiago Cathedral.
    The scenery is stunning and the sky was threatening, apparently there was a visible cold front coming as seen by the line in the sky (David’s input!). We then had lovely seafood paella in Finisterre village. And the coach came back stopping at Muxia, made famous by ‘The Way’ film ( Martin Sheen scattered his son’s ashes) and an impressive semi circular waterfall and very old bridge.
    Then David and I got a bus this morning from Santiago to Porto, and lost an hour as Portugal is on UK time! While Fiona flew back to the UK.
    We’ve had a relaxing afternoon exploring very hilly Porto and took a boat tour of the six bridges here on the river Douro, although I managed to nod off again, as I did on the bus this morning!! I have quite a sleep debt to catch up on!! My feet are happier now and I’m looking forward to seeing friends in Lisbon and also going home next week!!
    So thanks again everyone for your fabulous kind support, lots of love to you all 😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘    Read more

    Trip end
    June 11, 2034
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