Esquel, Argentina

Tea, treats and trees.

Esquel is one of many stop-offs we'll have on our way north. We didn't intend on being here specifically but we've got a lot of ground to cover so may as well enjoy it (or at least make an effort to disperse the long and boring bus trips as best as possible). It's the advantage we gain from not flying - an opportunity to see the little things.

Esquel is a small town in Patagonia which exists solely to service the farmers who capitalise on the rich soils of the valley in which it lies. There's a small tourist industry but you wouldn't pick it. Esquel is the largest town within reach of Las Alerces National Park - home of some of the biggest and oldest trees in the world. But, that's the second reason we chose here. The main reason we're here is for tea. Trevelin is a blip on the map, a mere stones throw from Esquel and it's famous for high tea. That's right, we travelled 1200km for tea. Not dinner. The drink.

Trevelin is tiny, but remarkable for the fact that it's Welsh. The primary language might be spanish if you're speaking to a shop keeper, but the town will have it otherwise; the landmarks are titled in Welsh, as are momuments, museums and street names. The culture is welsh - high tea is at five daily and baking and cooking competitions litter the monthly calendar. Cat dragged my sorry soul to this miniscule town on a very wet afternoon for a brief visit to the museum followed by high tea. The museum was relatively unexciting (as we expected) and the tea was just tea, but the sweet treats - they were worth the trip and some! Cake, custard pie and raspberry slice were the highlights of a table full of delicious afternoon snacks which left both of us feeling slightly ill and heavily flooded with tea - specifically in the bladder. It didn't help that we'd already indulged in sweet treats and tea earlier that morning as well as wine with lunch. Yes, we're getting piggy but food is one of the few delights we can find in the continuous days of buses, rain and exhausting hikes. Don't judge.

In fact, as if to justify the gluttony, the next day we picked up a rental car and headed out to Las Alerces National Park to burn off the cakes on the trail. It was still raining on and off, and the thought of venturing into the wild was unappealing. However, on our way out there we picked up some younger and more enthusiastic hitchhikers, who boosted our enthusiasm and with with whom we spent the remainder of the day - hiking short trails to lakes and waterfalls and rivers. Although it did rain for most of the day, it was light rain and the hope of sunshine lured us on. Unfortunately, to get to the really old Alerces trees, you need to take a boat ride. Said boat was no longer operating and there was no other way to get to that part of the park - much to our dismay. Of course, they take no shame in advertising a wonder you physically cannot see. The park was beautiful nonetheless and despite the rain we thoroughly enjoyed the day. We did not see the sun but we witnessed plenty of flora including apples (delicious), blackberries (also delicious) and mushrooms (too scared to try). As far as fauna goes - cows and birds were about the only things dumber than us to brave the autumn weather.

We were also reminded that we're not really travelling on a budget - rental cars, hostels and wine for dinner are a far cry from hitchhiking, tents in the rain and plain couscous on a portable stove. Lucky us! Speaking of luck, our exit plan landed us on the flashest coach I have ever seen. Virtually brand new with all the gadgets including wifi, power outlets, blankets, pillows and a tea/meal service. Not willing to admit we may have bought tickets with the wrong bus company, we sat back and enjoyed the ride through yet more of the endless RN40.

Don't be fooled by the pictures. They're all taken in the tiny absences of the rain - it really is bad weather!Read more