Mendoza, Argentina

Veni, Vidi, Vino.

Mendoza City is the beating heart of Mendoza the province - which as far as provinces go, is massive; it's nearing two thirds the size of NZ by area yet in Argentinia, it's not even in the top five provinces. The reputable beauty of Mendoza doesn't jump at you like other cities we've visited. That is, of course, until you witness the foothills of the Andes - or beyond, if you're lucky. They're incredible! Blindingly white against the deep blue of the sky and persistently peeping at you through gaps between buildings and around the foliage of tree lined streets. Then it all starts to sink in; the wide, flat and tree lined streets, the lack of high-rise buildings, and the numerous green plazas all work together to create a mental freedom only a small town could replicate. Old men sell antiques from tables in the park, hippies sell art and craft from stalls in the plaza and it's hard to miss a sign for artisenal beer specials or (of course) wine tastings. Surprisingly, with all this selling going on, nobody's actually pushing it and to me that makes all the difference. Good things sell themselves - right?

We took a recovery day on our first day here, taking great pleasure in the good food, bed and shower amongst virtually everything else we take for granted; clean floors, lights, hot water, comfortable chairs, coffee, and a refrigerator to name just a few. After a brief walk around downtown, we both got our hair cut at a peluqueria and then spent almost the entire rest of the day lying in the park reading, writing, picnicking and watching almost everybody except us drink mate. Pronounced mah-tay, this drink is practically a religion in Argentina and Chile and I'm surprised it's taken me so long to write about it. It's basically a cup full of herbs which you fill with boiling water and drink through a filtering straw. Unlike a tea bag, a cup of mate can be refilled several times, usually at least five to ten but often more. If you were to search the bag of any local on the street, you could bet your house they would have a mate cup, a straw, a container of mate, and of course a thermos full of boiling water - just in case they can't get access to a kettle. Mate drinking in company is not a straightforward activity; it involves many rules and more often than not a burnt mouth or part thereof. As to the flavour, I've eaten tree leaves that taste better but it's bound to be an acquired taste and it's high in caffeine so I'll let them be - yerba mate or not.

You and I both know we're not in Mendoza for the mate. It's the Malbec we're after and it is all too easy to find. Be it in a bodega, restaurant, supermarket, bar or cafe - you can't avoid it. And when you can't beat 'em, join 'em and that is about all I need to tell you about Mendoza. We passed most of our time exploring on foot, stumbling across our best empanadas yet in a random families living room (which was a hectic experience), and hopping from eatery to drinkery and then on to a full day in the vineyards. Cat is going to pick up the pen for our experience in wine tasting - I'm sure you'll appreciate a break from me!Read more