Fez

Another long train yesterday. 6.5 hours in 3rd class from Asilah to Fez (via Sidi Kaseem). 33 dirhams, about £2.50. Had to stand for the last 1/2. Accosted by Saiid and Abdul, who seemed cheerful enough maties. Spent last night in a brothel type hotel, but moved to the hotel Du Jardin today, on the edge of the Medina. Saiid took us around the souk, showed us a bakery, Tanning factory, wood dye factory, carpet chops etc. Insulted one matey badly, apparently, by blowing my nose in his shop. He got very shorty. Felt a bit guilty for Saiid as we didn't buy anything so he got no commission, though he wouldn't accept anything from us yesterday as he said he was just a friend. We even got a couple of cups of tes from him and had a free guide for a day. I think by the end he was as pleased to be rid of us as we were of him.

Just been to the 'Long drop', pleased to report that everything is as it should be.

The food is pretty terrible, either fish bones in batter + chips, or mangy chicken + chips - What do the locals eat? (The bread is very good). Bought some bread fresh out of an oven this morning, and felt very philanthropic handing out to beggars and kiddies.

Jan is having an attack of the Chukkies (?), and whats worse is that it seems infectious.

Carpet sellers all have the best, cheap, can sell it in Harrods for 5 times the price, or with a man who takes 10% at a place called an auction (oh really?) Berber rugs. Usually white with brown motifs, (17 different dialects, 56 tribes). Royal and Fez carpets (360,000 stitches per m2) and a 'funny business carpet (do they mean 'how's your father?) but all very yucky and expensive + chemical dies despite their insistence that the vioolent pink and fluorescent green occur naturally. Do people really buy carpets here? Only Yanks surely. The good news is that siestas are back in fashion. French is slowly coming back to me and am learning a few words of Arabic - Shokram=Thanks. And to count to 5. Wahad, Jouj, Kletta, Araba, Hamsa, Sta, Sba Roughly speaking. Jaj = Chicken.Read more