Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

This is Jane and Mark's sabbatical blog. We're spending a month cycling the Camino Frances in Spain. Then we're off to Jordan - Dubai - India - Bhutan (two wheels by motorbike to the Tiger's Nest) - Thailand - Malaysia - Singapore. Back for Xmas. Read more

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Trip start
September 8, 2023
Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest
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Monday, September 4, 2023
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: 252 m
England Holmbury St Mary 51.176526, -0.42507651°10’35” N 0°25’30” W
Blog launch
September 4, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Last training ride before the Camino.
TravelerHave a good trip
9/6/23Reply
Thanks Jane, stay safe. [Tony]
9/6/23Reply
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Day 1
Friday, September 8, 2023 at 7:20 PM
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: Sea level
England Basin No. 3 50.811382, -1.09661550°48’41” N 1°5’48” W
Day 1 - Portsmouth
September 8, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Arrived with bikes safely. Bit odd - we had to queue up with the cars. Our wheelie bags meant we had to be escorted to the ferry. Attracted some strange looks! Although we were pretty much first on - and to the bar…Read more
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Day 2
Saturday, September 9, 2023 at 6:38 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 9 m
France Saint Malo Ferry Port 48.641361, -2.02318148°38’29” N 2°1’23” W
Day 2 - St Malo and Rennes
September 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Enjoyable morning exploring St Malo and walking on the beach - although wheeling our bikes and luggage on the cobbles was a bit of a challenge! Followed by a hot and frustrating afternoon due to a lost driving license and a 3hr gap in the train timetable. Anyway, we are now in Rennes and a new driving license has been ordered!
Miles cycled so far = 0; Miles walked = 7ish; Miles pushing bike = 4ish.Read more
TravelerI hope you can relax this evening.
9/9/23Reply
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Day 3
Sunday, September 10, 2023 at 9:15 PM
🌙 28 °C
Altitude: 31 m
France Pont d'Iéna 48.860001, 2.29147848°51’36” N 2°17’29” E
Day 3 - Paris and Bayonne
September 10, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 28 °C
We have arrived in Bayonne! A much smoother experience today. TGV are super quick. The one this afternoon was at 200mph for a good 90 minutes. Stopped off in Paris long enough for lunch and a quick trip to the Eiffel Tower by bike! We’re now within shooting distance of the start of the Camino. One more day till we start. Just hope the rain holds off now.Read more
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Day 4
Monday, September 11, 2023 at 12:37 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 163 m
France St-Jean-Pied-de-Port Railway Station 43.167854, -1.23788843°10’4” N 1°14’16” W
Day 4 - StJPdP
September 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Last leg of of train journey to St Jean Pied-de-Port. Unfortunately the French trains haven't been very reliable and we were delayed by an hour. Getting our bikes on and off the trains and trying not to block the corridor has been a bit of a challenge on this trip!
Our B&B has lovely views but is up a very steep hill! Spent the afternoon exploring StJPdP (which is full of Camino walkers), booking our luggage transfer, and getting our Camino passports stamped. We're all ready to start tomorrow - hopefully without any thunderstorms!Read more
TravelerBest of luck for your first day cycling love M and D xx
9/11/23Reply
TravelerThanks!
9/11/23Reply
Now the hard work starts, all the best J & R [Jenny]
9/12/23Reply
Traveler10:21. Done 400m of climbing already. Stopped for a drink now though!
9/12/23Reply
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Day 5
Tuesday, September 12, 2023 at 4:37 PM
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 867 m
Spain Aurizberri 42.979103, -1.36967342°58’45” N 1°22’11” W
Day 5 - Espinal
September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Today has been our first day of “proper cycling”. Woke up this morning after big thunderstorms last night and official warnings of weather (see photos). It’s been fine and sunny most of the day - much better than forecast!

1200m of climbing. The most we have done this year but in the end was no problem. Climbing on well surfaced mountain roads is nowhere near as hard as off road on the Surrey Hills!Read more
TravelerWell done guys, good to see smiles and blue sky
9/12/23Reply
TravelerWe were expecting to be wet and cold today but the weather's been great!
9/12/23Reply
TravelerNice to hear from on the phone today.
9/12/23Reply
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Day 6
Wednesday, September 13, 2023 at 12:35 PM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 450 m
Spain Murallas de Pamplona 42.821163, -1.64247842°49’16” N 1°38’33” W
Day 6 - Pamplona
September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Good mountain biking route today - mainly off road, with lots of tricky rocky sections. Lots of people on the first part of the route this morning, from all over the world. Collected some more stamps for our Camino passports. The baggage transfer is working well. We leave our bags at the hotel reception by 8am with some money, and they are there waiting for us at the next hotel - a great service so far.
39kms cycled today, 740m up, 1150m down.

*Anyone doing the route is referred to as a pilgrim or peregrino (or bicigrino if cycling), whether doing it for religious purposes, or like us, just for an adventure. You can collect stamps along the way (from cafes, hotels, churches) to get a certificate (compostela) at the end.Read more
Looks very interesting and peaceful. Enjoy your day off tomorrow. [Jenny Sharp]
9/13/23Reply
TravelerScenery was amazing. Lots of downhill that was exciting too!
9/13/23Reply
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Day 7
Thursday, September 14, 2023 at 1:37 PM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 455 m
Spain Plaza de Toros de Pamplona 42.816082, -1.63974242°48’58” N 1°38’23” W
Day 7 - Pamplona
September 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
A “day off” in Pamplona today to give the muscles time to recover. We have done a lot of walking around the tourist spots, however, taking in the star fort, old town and the bull ring. Weather is hot and sunny - completely different to the forecast only a few days ago. Hopefully that will continue over the next couple of days as we increase the mileage per day!Read more
TravelerLooks like an interesting day, hope you enjoyed it. love Mum and Dad xx
9/14/23Reply
Pleased to see forecast looks better for you. Also pleased you missed the real “bull run”. Take care, and thank you for the postcard, received today. [Jenny]
9/14/23Reply
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Day 8
Friday, September 15, 2023 at 10:40 AM
☁️ 19 °C
Altitude: 749 m
Spain Zariquiegui 42.735786, -1.74273742°44’9” N 1°44’34” W
Day 8 - Estella
September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Up early as our bags had to be ready for pick up by 7:15! Started the day with a big climb up to the metal statues at Alto del Pardon, followed by a long descent out of the mountains and into the vineyard area. Went through two villages preparing for the 'running of the bulls'.
50kms cycled today, 1025m up, 995m in down.Read more
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Day 9
Saturday, September 16, 2023
☁️ 26 °C
Altitude: 419 m
Spain Parque del Espolón 42.462811, -2.44475342°27’46” N 2°26’41” W
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Day 9 - Logrono
September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
Another day of big climbing in the hills: some vey steep sections but with nice long rolling descents. Found a squashed tarantula sized scorpion on the road - caution needed before sitting on any rocks. Another early start but we arrived before 3pm. We were greeted by the Rioja wine festival in full swing. The whole city is full and it is clear that red wine has been liberally spread about. Good atmosphere though and we’ll head out later to watch the marching band parades!
52kms cycled today, 900m up, 950m down.Read more
Traveler Free wine fountain just outside Estella but it was only 9:30am so too early for a glass!
9/16/23Reply
TravelerGreat atmosphere, well done on the climbs 🛳🍷🇪🇸✅
9/16/23Reply
TravelerWell done
9/16/23Reply
TravelerDay off tomorrow!
9/16/23Reply
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Day 10
Sunday, September 17, 2023 at 12:02 PM
☁️ 22 °C
Altitude: 419 m
Spain Parque del Espolón 42.462811, -2.44479542°27’46” N 2°26’41” W
Day 10 - Logrono
September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Another busy day in Logrono due to the Wine Festival. Watched the parade and tried some pinchos (tapas). Unfortunately we'll miss the grape treading.
Great festival, shame about treading the grapes. [Jenny]
9/17/23Reply
TravelerIt’s been a nice day. Back to 7am start on the bikes tomorrow though!
9/17/23Reply
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Day 11
Monday, September 18, 2023 at 3:12 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 735 m
Spain Ciriñuela 42.421745, -2.91700542°25’18” N 2°55’1” W
Day 11 - Santo Domingo de la Cazada
September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
It felt like a longer day in the saddle today - although the Garmin shows we were as quick as any other day. The morning was spent amongst the scenic vineyards of the region and watching the harvest. The afternoon was much more gravelly and we were up against a long climb with a significant headwind. This really sapped our energy and we needed a 2 hour sleep on arrival. Should be less windy tomorrow! I hope.
50kms cycled today, 820m up, 590m down.Read more
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Day 12
Tuesday, September 19, 2023 at 10:04 AM
☀️ 14 °C
Altitude: 958 m
Spain Villafranca-Montes de Oca 42.388561, -3.30954542°23’19” N 3°18’34” W
Day 12 - Villafranca Montes de Oca
September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Crossed the border from 'La Rioja' to 'Castillo y Leon' today, swapping vineyards for fields of dead sunflowers waiting to be harvested. Thankfully the wind was much lighter today so cycling was much easier. Stopped for coffee at Belorado - a nice little village with lots of murals. Staying tonight at a 14th Century pilgrim hospital. Nearly everyone here is doing the Camino.
Cycled 36kms today, 620m up, 310m down.Read more
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Day 13
Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 4:12 PM
🌬 23 °C
Altitude: 854 m
Spain Roman catholic diocese of Burgos 42.340729, -3.72972342°20’27” N 3°43’47” W
Day 13 - Burgos
September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 23 °C
Two long hard climbs today (about 200m each) followed by some nice long descents. As a result we covered ground very quickly and got the first half of the ride done by 10.30. A nice cup of coffee at Ages and we then pushed on for Burgos. Most of the ride was very scenic. The entry into Burgos was a bit industrial. 2 rest days now to recover our strength before we tackle the Maseta (a few days of fairly flat desert riding). Interesting some of the other pilgrims are renting bikes for this section!
42kms cycled today, 482m up, 591m down.Read more
TravelerLooks very rough some of the route. Enjoy your two days break from the bikes.
9/20/23Reply
TravelerMost of the route isn't like that, but there are some tricky sections - makes it more interesting!
9/20/23Reply
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Day 14
Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 2:15 PM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 876 m
Spain Arco de Santa María 42.339951, -3.70424742°20’24” N 3°42’15” W
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Day 14 - Burgos
September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Day off in Burgos today - visited the cathedral (one of the largest and oldest in Europe) and the castle.
Heavy rain this morning. Really glad we haven't been cycling today, but feeling sorry for those out on the Camino as there is very little shelter on this section.
Back into Burgos this evening for some tapas - our best 'patatas bravas' so far!
Will have walked 8+ miles by the time we get back to our hotel on the edge of town. Quite a lot for a day off!Read more
Traveler Padron peppers, well done
9/21/23Reply
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Day 15
Friday, September 22, 2023
☁️ 17 °C
Altitude: 885 m
Spain Plaza Mayor 42.341221, -3.70165842°20’28” N 3°42’6” W
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Day 15 - Burgos
September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Finished now with our two day break in Burgos. It was a bit colder again today (around 16 degrees) so we decided to have a day of culture (museum of human evolution) and shopping in Burgos. Going into tomorrow nice and fresh now. Also went out and had a nice meal tonight - many thanks to all my colleagues at Capgemini who put together a collection for me prior to the trip! Now got to pack up and get ready for an early set off tomorrow with bags needed downstairs at 8am. I think we are going to wait until later to start as it is due to be 6 degrees at that time.Read more
Traveler Was this a purchase? x
9/22/23Reply
Traveler1955 vintage jet trainer. Not sure we could afford the fuel!
9/22/23Reply
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Day 16
Saturday, September 23, 2023 at 10:39 AM
⛅ 9 °C
Altitude: 886 m
Spain Hontanas 42.312759, -4.04235842°18’46” N 4°2’32” W
2
Day 16 - Hontanas (the Meseta)
September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
Our easiest ride so far - despite stopping at every village for a coffee we still arrived too early for lunch. Would have been nice to cover more distance, but there are limited accommodation options on this part of the route and we can't get our bags transferred more than 60km.
On the plus side, we're staying in Hontanas, a lovely little village that seems to be prospering due to all of the Camino traffic.
Rather than having a relaxing afternoon enjoying the sun, we ('I') decided a 'little' walk would be nice. We saw an advert for a 'music event' in the next village, so decided to go and have a look. Two hours later, the walk had turned into a 5 mile hike and village was completely deserted. However, it did give us a taste of 'walking' the Camino, and got us up to a respectable number of miles.
29kms cycled today, 292m up, 273m down; + 8kms walked, 99m up.Read more
Traveler These guys have got a serious picnic with them x
9/23/23Reply
TravelerImpressive that they weren’t e-bikes. There are a few decent hills on the route!
9/24/23Reply
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Day 17
Sunday, September 24, 2023
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 830 m
Spain Iglesia de Santiago 42.338192, -4.60264542°20’17” N 4°36’10” W
2
Day 17 - Carrion de los Condes (Meseta2)
September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Bit of a cold start (7 degrees) but morning riding was good fun. Lots of downhill with only one big climb - but it was big. The afternoon was straight as an arrow for at least an hour. The walkers must have been bored out of their minds as we did it at pace. We tried a different transfer company for bags today. It didn’t work out 100% but we have the bags now - we’ll try another one tomorrow! Interesting today that we did cycle by a canal and some locks which was a bit odd in such an arid region.
54kms cycled today, 415 up, 450 down.Read more
New socks? [Jenny]
9/24/23Reply
TravelerOh yes. All looking the part now!
9/25/23Reply
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Day 18
Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:08 PM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 833 m
Spain Sahagún 42.370995, -5.02742°22’16” N 5°1’37” W
Day 18 - Sahagun (Meseta 3)
September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
A relatively easy ride today, although legs were feeling a bit weary after yesterday's sprint. Another day of big open vistas - farmland, wind farms, and fields of dead sunflowers. Mainly flat, but again we're glad to be cycling rather than walking, as it can get a bit monotonous. Saw some underground hobbit like bodegas used to store food and wine (see photos). Also met an interpreter from Ukrainian who had walked all the way from Slovakia with his two dogs (complete with their own Camino shells), wild camping all the way.
We're now over half way, at 414kms out of 784kms.
40kms cycled today, 248m up, 253m down.Read more
Lovely countryside. Well done for reaching the halfway point. [Jenny]
9/25/23Reply
Following your progress, great pics. Well done, keep the chains oiled and the knees! Uncle Tony. [Tony]
9/26/23Reply
TravelerGlad you're enjoying the blog. Knees are doing ok so far!
9/26/23Reply
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Day 19
Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 3:05 PM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 847 m
Spain Catedral de León 42.599072, -5.56743742°35’57” N 5°34’3” W
Day 19 - Leon (Meseta 4)
September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We took advantage of the speed of the bikes today to do 2 sections of the Camino that most people avoid. The first was the Roman road which adds 2km to the journey and bypasses most stopping places. We only saw about 10 people in over 30kms! Made a nice change from ringing the bell every 30 seconds, and meant we avoided long sections of straight road. The second was around lunch where we took a 6km detour to see the monastery that was a stopping point for the original pilgrims. We’re now in Leon. Our hotel is right next door to the Cathedral- so no commute into town for us!
53kms cycled today, 374m up, 379m down.Read more
TravelerSmiles and blue skies, looks like you had a great day
9/26/23Reply
TravelerYes. Day off tomorrow and we are literally less than a stones throw from the Cathedral!
9/26/23Reply
TravelerEnjoy your day off tomorrow, looks lovely weather.
9/26/23Reply
TravelerWill do. It was about 10 degrees when we left this morning and 29 when we arrived!
9/26/23Reply
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Day 20
Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 11:55 AM
☁️ 19 °C
Altitude: 842 m
Spain Casa Botines 42.598137, -5.5705242°35’53” N 5°34’14” W
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Day 20 - Leon
September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Relaxing day off in Leon doing tourist things, including the Gaudi building, Roman walls, and Cathedral. Also visited the laundrette, to catch up on washing. Surprised to see it had a specific washing machine for pets.Read more
Traveler Shopping for treats x
9/27/23Reply
TravelerUnfortunately not. That was me carrying the laundry!
9/27/23Reply
TravelerThere don’t seem to be many people about in the places you are visiting.
9/27/23Reply
TravelerUmm ... see what you mean. It's actually really busy here, especially at 10:00 in the evening.
9/27/23Reply
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Day 21
Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 3:17 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 878 m
Spain Astorga 42.456966, -6.05484442°27’25” N 6°3’17” W
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Day 21 - Astorga
September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Couple of big climbs today. The first was out of Leon- a bit of a shock after the Meseta! Very sunny and it warmed quickly today. Stopped by a few odd villages. One of them seemed to be executing effigies of 'peregrinos' (pilgrims) - we didn’t stop! (see photos). One more day before we meet up with Chris and Paula so looking forward to that.
55kms cycled today, 480m up, 450m down.Read more
Traveler Lots of coffee stops x
9/28/23Reply
There appears to be some strange goings on in this part of the country. Passport looking full. [Jenny]
9/28/23Reply
TravelerThe key thing for the passport is to ensure that we get 2 stamps each day from tomorrow. If we do that then we get the Compostella certificate!
9/28/23Reply
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Day 22
Friday, September 29, 2023 at 3:55 PM
☀️ 28 °C
Altitude: 533 m
Spain Iglesia de San Andrés 42.543026, -6.59385542°32’35” N 6°35’38” W
Day 22 - Ponferrada
September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Change of scenery today as we're back in the mountains. Started the morning cycling 700m up, up, up to the Cruz de Ferro - the highest point on the Camino at 1500m. This was followed by a 1000m descent all the way down to the Knights Templar Castle in Ponferrada. Beautiful scenery and villages today and some great mountain bike tracks. Unfortunately there were lots of walkers around so we had to go on the road for some sections, but still good fun. Great to see Chris and Paula at today's finish line.
56kms cycled today, 850m up, 1180m down.Read more
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Day 23
Saturday, September 30, 2023 at 11:54 AM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 543 m
Spain Museo de la Radio 42.544361, -6.59276742°32’40” N 6°35’34” W
Day 23 - Ponferrada
September 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Today has been the last day off before our final push to Santiago. From now on we need 2 stamps a day to get the Compostela. It’s been a good chance today to visit the castle with Chris and Paula, do some shopping and see the train museum. Route tomorrow is now planned - with some longer and hillier options to avoid other pilgrims! We are finding here that the trails are both narrower and busier which is not an ideal combination.Read more
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Day 24
Sunday, October 1, 2023 at 10:51 AM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 525 m
Spain Villafranca del Bierzo 42.604271, -6.8094342°36’15” N 6°48’34” W
Day 24 - Ambasmestas
October 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
A big day in the mountains today! It was Chris' first day joining us so we wanted to find some good mountain bike tracks.
We started with an easy 15 miles, through the vineyards to Villafranca del Bierzo to meet Paula for coffee. We then had a choice - follow the easy route along the valley road, or try one of the suggested variations. We opted for the more adventurous Camino Duro (the hard way). It started with a 3km hike up before eventually levelling out, 500m above the road route. We think an old lady tried to warn us against trying the route with bikes but we couldn't understand each other, so eventually she just made a sign of the cross and wished us 'buen camino'!
It definitely wasn't an easy option, but had great views and was away from the traffic and most of the walkers.
43kms cycled today, 870m up (felt like more), 750m down.Read more
TravelerI should take the easy route tomorrow! Mum xx
10/1/23Reply
TravelerUnfortunately tomorrow's 'easy' route involves even more climbing than today! But it's an easy day after that.
10/1/23Reply
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