• Toto Zapata
  • Junita Fernandez
  • Toto Zapata
  • Junita Fernandez

Exploring Guizhou & Hunan

Escaping Shanghai during Covid Times -
Fanjin Shan - Fenghuang - Furong - Zhangjiajie - Wulingyuan
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  • Trip start
    October 1, 2022

    Escaping Shanghai

    October 1, 2022 in China ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    After the lockdown in Shanghai in April and May 2022 - and permanently changing regulations afterwards - Junita and I took the decision to explore China and were heading towards the provinces of Hunan and Guizhou. Of course our Shanghai Health code had to be green and on arrival at Tongren Airport in Eastern Guizhou we had to do our PCR test on arrival. The test had to be recorded in the local Chinese health app which was Chinese language only. Furthermore none of the medical staff spoke any English. Fortunately our guide arrived and he registered us as his kids in the app and the test could be finished.
    We took the car over the border to Fenghuang in the province of Hunan where we stayed for following 2 nights.
    Fenghuang Ancient Town is located at Tuojiang River. It’s a 300-year old town, has the rich culture of 28 minority ethnic groups, and was home to famous historical figures and great writers.
    After arrival we strolled along the river from our hotel to the centre of the ancient town.
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  • Hiking the Fanjing Shan

    October 2, 2022 in China ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we were heading back to Guizhou. Plan was to hike around Fanjing Shan or Mount Fanjing, close to Tongren.
    Fanjing Shan is a sacred mountain in Chinese Buddhism, considered to be the bodhimaṇḍa of the Maitreya Buddha. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018.
    Fanjing Shan is famous for its two temples atop the mountain, connected together by a bridge. We also did hike the other two main points, the Mushroom Stone and the Old Golden Peak.
    The weather was very foggy but we were lucky that it opened up after a while.
    In the late afternoon we came back to Fenghuang and started again to explore the ancient town with great food and loud music from the bars.
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  • Old town of Fenghuang and stop at Furong

    October 3, 2022 in China ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    In the morning we got picked up by our guide and we had noodle soup for breakfast nearby our hotel. Great way to start the day. A quick tea tasting afterwards and then we walked again into Fenghuang Ancient Town together with our guide Andy, who gave us a deep brief in to the history of the place.
    One highlight was the house of Shen Congwen (1902-1988), one of the greatest Chinese writers. His most famous book was Border Town, published in 1934. It is a short novel about the coming of age and romances of an adolescent country girl named Cuicui in a mountain village in western Hunan, near the border with Sichuan province.
    Shen Congwen was an apolitical writer but suffered a lot during the Cultural Revolution. He died in the age of 88 in Beijing just before he would have received the Literature Noble Price.
    In the afternoon we stopped on our drive to Zhangjiajie City in Furong Ancient Town, the Magical Waterfall Village in Hunan. Furong Ancient Town is more than 2000 years old and home to the Tujia minority people. It was first founded by the King Tusi as the capital of Youyang County in 202 BC, during the West Han Dynasty. Famous for the Furong Waterfall that passing through the town, as well as the well-preserved Tujia Diaojiaolou buildings situated on cliffs above the waterfall.
    The drive ended finally in Zhangjiajie City which will be our basis for the next few days.
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  • Finally - The Avatar Mountains

    October 4, 2022 in China ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today was a day of lot of walking, big crowds, and amazing landscape. Starting in Wulingyuan, we took the cable car to Tianzi Mountain and visited the sites and viewpoints of Yangjiajie and Yuanjiajie. There we could overlook the astonishing landscape of karst peaks and old rocks.
    We walked along the trail through a mountain area recently named „Mount Hallelujah of Avatar“, connected to the hit movie Avatar. We also used the Bailong panoramic elevator which climbs 335m of the cliff in less than 2 mins to Yuanjiajie.
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  • COVID is hitting the region

    October 5, 2022 in China ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Previous night we met a friend from SVW and his travel group for a beer in our hotel. News came from Fenghuang that 1 Covid case did lead to the closure of the town. Health codes turned red for some people of the other groups which were in Fenghuang the day after we left. The National Parks stayed still open and therefore we did an early trip to the Zhangjiajie Valley to cross the Zhangjiajie Canyon via its transparent glass floor bridge in record-breaking height. Though no longer the world's longest, it remains one of the world's highest and longest glass bridges, with a length of 430 meters and a height of about 260–300 meters. Normally full with people but due to the changing Covid situation much less people were out.
    After we came back to our car our guide Andy found out that we had to change our plans due to Covid. We decided to head towards Huanglong cave. Covering a total area of 48 ha (120 acres), the cave system extends to 15 km (9.3 mi) in length and is divided into dry and wet levels. There are four levels, thirteen chambers, three underground waterfalls, two underground rivers, three pools, ninety-six passages, as well as an underground lake. The largest chamber in the cave is 4,000 m2 (43,000 sq ft) and the highest of the three waterfalls is 50 m (160 ft) high.
    In the evening we went back to the great restaurant close to the river in the town we stayed. Great Chinese food.
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  • Escaping through the tunnel

    October 6, 2022 in China ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The next day we got the information that the the city of Wulingyuan got locked down. We did hang out in the reception area of our hotel to wait for news what will happen next. On this day we had planned the trip to „The gate to heaven“ on Tianmen mountain near Zhangjiajie. One of the highlights but of course canceled. Everybody was trying to contact his travel agency but just limited news. Just after lunch we got informed by the hotel that a PCR test is scheduled for the full population of Wulingyuan. Luckily the testing place was next to the hotel. Took us around 2 hours to get it done. After further contact to our agency we could convince them to pick us up from the hotel. They asked not to check out of the hotel officially, we should not tell anybody and they asked us to sneak out of the hotel with our luggage. An unmarked van will pick us up from the road. The van took us on very busy road (a bit of travel panic around us) to the border of the city. There he dropped us and the agency told us on the phone that we should walk now through the 4km long tunnel to get to the other side of the tunnel. And we were not alone. Loads of people had the same idea. It did also show the absurdity of the regulations in China. City is locked down. No car is allowed to leave the city. Police is securing the borders. But pedestrians, bikes and motorbikes can cross. So after a once in a life time walk to the other side of the tunnel we had to walk another 1.5km till we reached our pickup van. Of course we got asked by many motorbike riders and taxis whether we want a lift for a lot of money. But we were too proud! The van driver from the agency dropped us at the airport. We immediately checked in with our green Hunan Health Car ode and passed security. As we rested in the little lounge of the airport our health code turned red. PANIC!
    Now we were really lost. What should we do? We had a meal with another couple from Germany. They were with us at the hotel and also their code became red. We knew that we can’t board the plane with a red health code but we were desperate to fly back to Shanghai. We didn’t want to sleep at the airport and more likely (as it happened for the other couple) the local authorities would take you to a quarantine hotel in the city for a few days. So I still had a screenshot from the green Hunan Health Code. They checked every health code with a pen to see whether it’s a real one so they would have picked us up immediately. We waited in the economy lane. I watched the staff about their preciseness of work. And then I spotted the opportunity after all business passengers had boarded and the airline person was distracted. Junita and me did board and just showed very quickly our old green Health Code and we were through. Puh. But it was a tense waiting time in the aeroplane till we departed because we were not sure whether they would catch us retrospectively. But when we departed we experienced a deep relief.
    But the next challenge was ahead of us. On arrival in Shanghai before we got to our luggage there was the next check point. They wanted to see again the Shanghai green Health Code and the Health Code of the area where we have been. Shanghai Health code was still green. Other one red. Again we had to use the old screenshot of the green one. We were in the slowly moving queue, around 4 men checked the codes. As soon we reached them did we show the green codes and rushed through before they were able to ask any question. Relieved and tired did we reach our flat at around 2.30 am. What a trip!!!
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    Trip end
    October 6, 2022