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  • Dag 34

    Pradela to O Cebreiro - the big mountain

    25 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Our dorm companion of last night, Matt, decided to get up at 4am and left at 4.30. Consequently we were awake for most of time from then until 5.30 when the alarm went off. The plan was to leave at 6 because of the heat and the climb up to O Cebreiro -
    Probably the toughest we’ve done since St Jean.
    Our companion took all the loo paper with him when he left which was a bit annoying, but a bit bleary eyed -and with a bit of a headache (in my case), we did manage to leave at 6.
    It was just getting light and the hills were silhouetted against the dawn. The first 3k were downhill to Trabadelo. Then the next 10k or so we’re pretty flat, along a road next to the river but with the A6 motorway close by for most of the time.
    Coffee and paracetamol made me feel a bit more human, and by the time it was properly light I was feeling a bit better and ready to climb.
    Fortunately most of the early part of the quite steep climb was shaded by oak trees and there were plenty of places to stop for drinks - I think I drank about a litre and a half of sparkling water in less than an hour at one point. An ice cream at a cafe near the top was a huge help with the last part and then we were in Galicia!! I’m so happy as I loved Galicia in October last year and it certainly feels like quite an achievement to be here this time!
    The mountain landscapes were fabulous - I hope the photos will give some idea of the beauty of this place - but I think you really have to see the whole for yourself to get a real feel for it.
    After a lunch of various types of goats local goats cheese with honey - and more goats cheese with tomato and basalmic vinegar (a bit of mis ordering by me) but delicious - we retreated to our room as the 4am wake up call followed by the 22km uphill walk had left me at least, feeling a bit dazed.
    This evening went to a beautiful mass at the church of Santa Maria Real do Camino. A very pilgrim focused service with a wonderful priest speaking in many languages. It culminated in a pilgrim blessing. I found it very moving and was in tears by the end of the service.
    The evening finished with watching the sun set over Galicia - beautiful and memorable. O Cebreiro is a very special place and I will be very sad to leave tomorrow morning. I will definitely be coming back!
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