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  • Day 37

    Samos to Barbadelo - the beginning of th

    June 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Oh dear - feeling a bit gloomy today as we’ve entered what is really the last stage of our epic journey.
    Sarria - which we passed through today - is the last place you can start walking if you are to qualify for your Compostela. It’s just over 100km from Santiago and is reputedly much busier than the rest of the Camino.
    Starting from Samos, again in the cloud, we saw hardly anyone. We were not expecting anywhere to stop for the first 15km and this would have been true apart from the kindness of a man at a tiny Albergue in the forest. He had a table with (remarkably good) coffee, tea etc and some biscuits and fruit - all donativo. I so appreciated my coffee and was also very happy to meet up with Callie and Anna who had been in Samos at the Albergue run by the monastery. Sean (erstwhile veggie inclined friend who I have met a couple of times) had actually stayed at the monastery in a room and had three meals. That’s what I would like to do next time!
    It was a fairly gentle and cool walk through the forest, often beside a river, to join up with the main path to Sarria from Triacastella.
    Sarria appeared in a bowl in the hills and we were soon walking in what felt like a city, but what is in fact a middle sized town - but with lots of infrastructure for pilgrims. Lots of hostels, banks supermarkets etc.
    I had heard from Bella about a great vegan/veggie cafe and shop so we headed there and had breakfast (in my case) and lunch (in Caroline’s). Although hers looked so good (a Buddha bowl) I had a small lunch too.
    It really was a fab place; my toast and tahini and honey was delicious and I then had a bowl of lentils which was exactly what I needed. C had a Buddha bowl which was perfection - I just didn’t feel I could eat that as was still feeling a bit under the weather.
    Leaving Sarria was hard after what ended up being a long stop and after eating quite a lot.
    I’m definitely better if I eat after I arrive rather than on the way.
    By the time we were heading out of Sarria it was pretty warm and although we were again on paths through trees, it was largely up hill so felt quite hard.
    Our Albergue in Barbadelo is very luxurious compared to the normal ones and has a pool! I had a wonderful and very refreshing swim. The place isn’t busy - I guess most people start in Sarria so wouldn’t stop after 4 km! Hopefully that will give me a head start tomorrow so the way won’t be too crowded. The plan is also to go beyond the ‘regular’ stage tomorrow, and as it is also the middle of the week, maybe it won’t be so crowded.
    Caroline has got a painful ankle so is going to get some physio in Portomarin tomorrow, so she will take a taxi there in the morning rather than walking. She’s really hoping they will sort it out for her so she can continue. I hope so too!
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