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Camino de nuevo
  • Fiona Boult
  • Fiona Boult

Camino de nuevo

A 38-day adventure by Fiona Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 22, 2024
    Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler
    1

    The beginning

    May 22, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Finally on my way for a second Camino Frances! I’m feeling very blessed as it’s been touch and go for so long. Despite plans to walk with Cressida going back to sometime last year I was then hospitalised in the Marsden for 10 days in January and left with massive loss of strength and huge dietary problems - so thought I’d never make it Then I injured my knee treating to go back to ballet too quickly. However owing to some fantastic professionals (my team at the Marsden, Tracey Vinnicombe sports therapist) and my amazing family I’m on the Eurostar ready to depart and feeling pretty strong again.
    I haven’t done much practice this time with the bag and the hills but hoping I’ll get fit as I go (going over the Pyrenees!)    Read more

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    A long day

    May 22, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Still on the train heading south but nearly at Bayonne now - it’s the next stop.
    Having got up at 3.30am I’m feeling a bit tired but hopefully that means I’ll sleep tonight whatever the dormitory is like. The train is good and this leg is quiet. I’ve read a bit, watched a bit of tv and tried to snooze but not very successfully. I’m not good at sleeping on transport. Looking forward to an hour in Bayonne as the sun is shining on and off and then the final stretch to St Jean Pied de Port and the Albergue. Temperature outside is 20 and not raining so all good!Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler

    And the end of the first day

    May 22, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Arrived at St Jean in the pouring rain so had to hastily find and don huge poncho thing -but it actually worked well. Got to the Auberge Beilan without going wrong as it’s close to where I stayed last year. No bunks and lots of lovely people so all very good. Dinner was fab - home cooked soup and veggie dish followed by fabulous chocolate torte. After dinner went for a short walk - the town is stunning and the weather had Clea Ed so we could see some mountains. Recorded my first birdsong.
    Now lights are out and someone is already snoring gently! I’m going to be wearing headphones! But very tired so hope I’ll sleep through any communal noise that seeps through.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler
    1

    St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

    May 23, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Well I’m definitely not as fit as I was last year! This was very hard - felt almost vertical at times. My legs were fine but felt like I was about to expire at moments.
    Had a reasonable night at Auberge Bidean - quite a lot of coughing noises but still slept enough. Didn’t need an early start as Orisson is only about three hours away - although we did it faster than that despite feeling knackered for most of it. Had a wander round the beautiful St Jean. Lit a candle in the church and had a delicious breakfast of fab coffee and the best pain au raisin ever.
    Set off about 9.45 in perfect (for hard walking) weather. Cool and quite cloudy but dry.
    I am a bit worried as I did find this stage really hard but am hoping I will get fitter quite quickly.
    Arrived at Orisson and found our beds in a ten person dorm then went for a drink and I had a bowl of soup as was feeling very cold having got sweaty on the climb. Unfortunately that didn’t really help and I just got colder and colder. Eventually my fingers - all ten - went white and stopped working so I had to use my precious shower token in an attempt to warm up.
    It has worked thank goodness and have done my bit of washing and now have eaten some of my day old sandwiches with crisps. Aiming to have a short sleep this afternoon as I am still feeling tired. Will check back in later!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler

    At Orisson

    May 23, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Had a fab sleep and finally warmed up (they have blankets here) then pottered around until dinner. Very busy cena with introductions from all the other pilgrims at the end of the meal.
    Despite all the good stuff I’m feeling anxious because the news from home about freddie (my springer spaniel) is not good. He has a raging infection and has been on a drip at the vets all day. I took him before I left as I was worried about him but he seems a lot worse. He’s quite old and I’m very worried about him. My family are doing a great job but I’m feeling very guilty about not being there to help them and him. They are all in my thoughts tonight.Read more

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    Orisson to Roncesvalles

    May 24, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Pretty rubbish night at Orisson hostel with whispering (couple opposite my bed) snoring and people going in and out to the loo - I was right by the door so the hall light shone onto me every time someone got up. The whole dorm started moving before 6 despite breakfast starting at 7 (and you do need to eat breakfast at this place as there is nothing certain until Roncesvalles!).
    Anyway I got over having to get up 45 minutes earlier than I wanted and felt better after a couple of cups of coffee.
    Set off at 7.50 in beautiful weather and had the most glorious walk in the high Pyrenees. Cool air but bright sun, perfect for walking and I saw the snow capped peaks that I missed last time because of the cloud. Also a pair of eagles - tried to get a photograph but very difficult to capture them.
    Ate a picnic lunch with the last of the sandwiches from home, crisps and an apple in a field with a horse but not a person in sight.
    We arrived in Roncesvalles just before 1 and checked into the monastery. I really wanted to stay here but was feeling quite nervous as I was concerned that it would be very basic and cold. In fact it’s wonderful - I still may not get any sleep but the dorms are fab and the facilites great. Lots of hot water, single sex bathrooms great laundry facilities, vending machines with everything you might need and wonderful grounds with washing lines to dry the clothes. My washing is already clean and dry!
    After arriving went to the local bar for very welcome beer and chips - hoping the meal tonight will be as good!
    Have done my Pilates stretches and now ready for dinner and then hopefully more sleep than last night!
    Very sad news from home so could t write any more - sorry 😔    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler
    1

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    May 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    This is going to be a short entry because I’m feeling very sad.
    My precious and beloved springer spaniel Freddie died today. I didn’t really get to say a proper goodbye to him because I’m here. But he was with Richard Olivia Sasha Toby and Arthur who loved him too. I’m now imagining that he will be on this Camino with me, with his favourite tennis ball and enjoying lots of swimming in the rivers.
    Scenery beautiful, weather beautiful, many tears.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler
    2

    Zubiri to Pamplona - a day of flowers

    May 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Walking today was full of the sounds of water - running in channels alongside the path and then in the river Arba. The weather is warm today but not too hot - plenty of shade on the path but also banks of wild flowers and the scent of wild roses and honeysuckle.
    I heard my first nightingale today - hoping for many more.
    We left around 7.30 and arrived in Pamplona at about 2. I had my first good nights sleep at Suseia in Zubiri and tonight at the Aloha hostel in Pamplona there are sheets and towels for the first time which is very exciting. Caroline and I stayed here last time and I think we have the identical room but one floor up.
    It didn’t seem quite so far to the hostel this time - maybe we are a bit less tired this time?
    The walk today was moderate - some undulations but fundamentally quite level. First coffee didn’t happen until about 10k but when it did it was good - delicious coffee and a great spinach tortilla.
    Managed to buy more cherries on the walk into Pamplona despite it being a Sunday so all good on the cherry craving front.
    Now planning to explore the city a bit and hopefully get into the cathedral which we didn’t do last time if I remember right.
    Well the cathedral was closed - again - so I’ll just have to come back again!
    It suddenly cooled down this afternoon so I was very cold in my summer dress - but still managed a fab ice cream after tapas at Bar Groucho with other friends from the Camino. Then back to the hostel where we sat around in the living area chatting for a while before what I’m hoping will be another early night and good sleep.
    The city is still buzzing but I’m tired.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler
    1

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    May 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Set off from Pamplona after a dodgy nights sleep. Two rounds of very loud dustbin lorries collecting from, what seemed like, right outside the window at about midnight then at about 1.15. To make things worse I was wide awake well before 5 tho didn’t need to get up till 6. Two proper coffees at the hostal helped to revive me a bit.
    Anyway got going by 7 for the urban walk out of Pamplona in much colder, cloudier conditions. Found breakfast at about 8 in a funny little old bar - great tortilla.
    Then a long hike up Alto de Perdón to the iron pilgrim sculptures and whirring wind turbines. It was extremely windy so unlike last year no one lingered long but headed down pretty fast to the bottom where it must have been a degree or two warmer.
    Not many places to stop today and we hadn’t really brought lunch (bread but no cheese) so it was a hungry walk and I was pretty desperate by the end of the afternoon.
    Some pretty villages and eventually found somewhere to have a cup of tea which was very exciting!
    Weather improved a bit with some sunshine towards the end of the walk - but the cold wind persisted throughout and made it very uncomfortable at times as I just don’t have enough clothes for post walk.
    Fabulous flowers again today - can’t believe the variety along the way - including beautiful irises which I don’t remember seeing before.
    Another nightingale plus corn buntings and serins to listen to.
    Puente la Reina is a lovely town - I hardly saw it last time as it was under water following torrential downpours but this time I was able to wander around and appreciate it more fully. Dinner at Vinoteca Ganbara again - wonderful food and wine and felt good supporting a very small business rather than going somewhere more commercial (not that many places are very commercial around here).
    Not very taken with the hostal but we have sheets and towels and our own bathroom which is good.
    Still thinking about Freddie and lit a candle for him at the church of San Andres in Zariquiegui    Read more

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    Puente la Reina to Estella - cuckoo #1

    May 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Great nights sleep despite the cell like room. Left at 7 and it was the most beautiful morning, tho cold. 6 degrees initially but now it’s 26!
    I was so happy! Exquisite day with more flowers, birds and the first cuckoo, which is always important. I know I’ll hear many more but the first one is exciting.
    Coffee after about 5k which is perfect. Then it became hotter and hotter as we walked though some beautiful hill villages.
    At Lorca I bought a sparkling water and sat for a while in the shade. Then after another hot stretch found the perfect bench seat in the shade where I had some lunch.
    However we have a problem as Cressida has hurt her leg and doesn’t know whether she’s going to be able to walk. A bit of a disaster! She’s yet to consult a pharmacist and I’m hoping it may not be as bad as she thinks but not good after less than a week. The walking is definitely tough particularly when you are carrying your stuff.
    So finally arrived around 2. It was very very hot and I was wilting. Very pleased to get Hostal de los Curtidores - the same place that Caroline and I stayed in last year and right at the beginning of the town. Did the inevitable washing and went to see what time one of my favourite restaurants of the Camino - Bar Mundo- opened - only to find that it was closed for ‘works’ today. Disaster as I was really hungry and in need of a proper meal. So change of plan and found another bar with some veggie food and a terrace overlooking the river. Food was good - service not so good but location was fab. Ice cream and a spot of food shopping later and I am in bed at 8.30 - very exhausted and aiming to set off at 6 tomorrow because of the heat.    Read more

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    Estella to Torres del Rio

    May 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Anticipating another very hot day and a 30k walk I left at 6 in the dark. Saw the sun rise around 6.45.
    The first 5k to the wine fountain was cool and quiet - not many other pilgrims or anyone else really. Unfortunately the much anticipated wine fountain now only starts at 8 or 9 am so I was too early. Given how horrible the wine is I wasn’t too bothered as experienced it last year.
    First coffee - after about 6k. Delightful little cafe run by a mad Dutchman - great food including vegetarian sandwiches to take a way for lunch! (First I’ve seen in Spain!) , bonkers pricing - too boring to explain - and he had stroop waffles - also first I’ve seen I. Spain.
    Along the way heard quails in the cornfields, frogs in the ditches and first Zittings Cisticola and Cetti’s Warbler. As well as nightingales and turtle doves. A white butterfly led me into Los Arcos and after Los Arcos saw swallowtails. About six or seven large birds of prey were circling over a tractor in a field of vines - assume they were hoping for small creatures to be disturbed by the tractor and break cover?
    As for people - at a lively food truck with comfortable seat under the olive trees and lots of good things to eat and drink I met the 84 year old man from Japan again (several times today) and a mother and daughter from the US who are walking 40k today. They have just passed our hotel (where I’ve done my washing and had a swim) and still have about 12k to go (it’s 4pm now).
    The trail out of Los Arcos to Torres del Rio was long and hot - absolutely no shade most of the way - met Cayman friends under the only tree casting shade and ate my lunch. Then on to Torres where the hotel is a haven - wonderful pool and good room and - im assured - a great vegetarian cena. I’m so tired I think I will sleep well tonight.
    Went to visit the c12 octagonal church - connected with the knights Templar. Beautiful - remember it from last year.
    Lovely vegetarian dinner with a bottle of wine between 3.    Read more

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    1

    Torres del Rio to Logroño - and a hoopoe

    May 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A (relatively) slow start at hostal didn’t start serving breakfast til 6.40. I don’t usually want breakfast but did want a coffee as there wasn’t another stop until just over 10k. So set off at 7.20 which felt like midday.
    Beautiful morning and the first bird I heard, and then actually saw as they don’t hide like most of the little birds, was a hoopoe. I haven’t seen one of these since I was a child so it was super exciting and has made my day.
    Undulating start - walking through groves of almond trees and cherry trees - actually pretty hard ups and downs - but all good and really enjoyed meeting some new people. Just before Viana heard a Thekla’s lark (if you were interpreting its sound musically it would have been a flute in high register rather than a violin!).
    Stopped in Viana for coffee and tortilla with lots of other pilgrims, then the long slog on to Logroño - lots of tarmac and road noise but also the beautiful Rosa de Camino de Santiago coming into the city.
    Walked with Yao from China. She is living in Valencia studying Spanish. Her parents are not very thrilled about her doing the Camino - they think she’s becoming a beggar, that it will be very dangerous and that she will get a suntan. She’s finding them very annoying at the moment and says that she is finally living her own life, having spent years basically doin what they want her to do. Really enjoyed talking with her and I hope I meet her again on the road tomorrow.
    After a visit to the cathedral went in a tapas bar crawl (I struggled with being quite tired, not a great drinker and not being able to eat much of the food ) and met many Camino companions including Yao.
    Street still buzzing but I need to sleep now.    Read more

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    Logroño to Najera - with gazpacho

    May 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We set ourselves a long day today - about 29k. After a noisy night in the heart of the tapas bar district of Logroño Cress and I were up at 5.30 leaving Melinda sleeping as this was her last day and she’s only walking to Navarette.
    A quiet level walk out of Logroño through a park and a nature reserve. Saw the family of red squirrels again at exactly the same place as last year.
    Spent most of the day walking with Bernie and Linda from Canada (via Ireland ) and David from southern Spain (via uk). It was cold - rarely took off my fleece and arrived cold needing a hot shower to warm up.
    Finally got a coffee and breakfast (but only a croissant - no tortilla) in Navarrete after about 12 k but my hands were so cold I managed to drop a plate - very embarrassing!
    The scenery was uniform after the parks on the outskirts of Logroño - red earth with vines - we are now in Rioja after all.
    Some cornflowers for the first time in the hedgerows.
    My shoulders were a bit uncomfortable today but planning some stretches before dinner! I was probably carrying to much today including a lot of gazpacho, cherries and peaches - most of which I did actually eat on the way. But was still very hungry when I arrived so had a beer and a cheese sandwich by the river.
    Nice hotel - Hotel Duques de Nájera - with a bath!! Haven’t had one yet tho.
    Hoping for food tonight not just snacks as I’m very hungry. 🤤
    Post some Meryl stretches we went to eat at the place that said they could do something veggie at 7.30 - got there and they said ‘no -8’ so had to wander around for a bit. Finally ate am quite a weird meal of vegetable stew, pasta and tomato sauce and chips and ice cream - but its calories and that’s fundamentally what I need.
    When I got back to the hotel I couldn’t believe my eyes when Paul from last years Camino was there! Big hugs and total surprise later turns out that Nick is also here - quite extraordinary to meet them again! And they are staying at the same hotel tonight.    Read more

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    1

    Najera to San Domingo - cold but lovely

    June 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Set off at 7 this morning after a night punctuated by loud revels outside the window. It really didn’t look like a party town but clearly transformed after we turned in for the night!
    A beautiful morning - unexpected because the forecast was just for cloud.
    Quite an easy 20k today with lots of glorious views - again I would love to be able to paint but I don’t have a painterly bone in my body.
    San Domingo is the cathedral town with the interesting story about chickens (see last year’s blog). The one place where it looked as if I could eat something doesn’t open for food until 8 so not sure that’s a runner
    Instead persuaded a bar to make me a cheese sandwich and chips so all good!
    Cress is doing lots of drawing and I have caught up with my Spanish following a walk around the town and the cathedral. Still in search of ‘horse of the day’ for liv so will go about again in a minute so look for it.
    I think the pictures will be more interesting than the words today!
    Had a glass of wine in a sunny square by the cathedral with lots of music and dancing from supporters of the local football team - assume they won today. Then another glass of wine with Bernie, David and Linda back at the sandwich place. Major works going on to erect a functioning tv outside for the champions league final - might be another noisy night but think we are facing the right way tonight.
    Met up with Nick from last year who is the same as ever minus calf injury so he’s carrying his bag. Will be good to spend a bit of time with him again    Read more

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    1

    San Domingo to Belorado - no rain

    June 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The highlight (or one of them) of today was that it didn’t rain even tho some forecasts said it would and there was a lot of gloom about. Anyway it didn’t and was actually pretty perfect walking weather. Not quite as cold as yesterday with the odd bit of sun.
    The walk wasn’t hugely exciting with long stretches of senda (by the road). Started about 7 and arrived in Belorado by 12.30. Horse of the day appeared complete with caballero just before we reached the town - fab horse and friendly rider.
    This town is having a festival - apparently something to do with king alfonso so everyone including the hospitaleros are dressed in medieval costumes and there is music and the odd random parade.
    Once we had checked in we went to find a drink and bumped into Nick and Paul. Then went back to shower. Returned to the square to find a cup of tea and met up with Linda Bernie and David and there was finally a bit of sun!
    Dinner at the hostal where most others were staying - a vegetarian menu with four (!) choices for each course. Wonderful and fun meal with other pilgrims including new people from Spain Japan and Scotland. All heading the same way tomorrow and will all be in Burgos the day after, but, as accommodation is scarce on this next section, staying a a variety of different places in different villages.
    Dive bombed by swifts walking to and from dinner and they are darting around under our bedroom window too.    Read more

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    2

    Belorado to Atapuerca

    June 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Very long way to go today so we left at 5.45 - in the dark. Actually pitch dark as it was a cloudy morning. Nevertheless the first birds (black redstarts) were singing as we were leaving Belorado.
    First coffee was delayed as most places don’t open til about 7 so we had walked nearly 10k before we found somewhere open. But it was a wonderful place so I’m pleased that we came to it first. In a tiny place called Espinosa - an alberge and bar run with love by a couple who produced great coffee and amazing food. One to remember.
    Second coffee was in Villafranca - not quite as good but good enough. Then to a tiny supermarket where I stocked up with a tiny toothpaste as I’m running out and a banana.
    After Villafranca it was steeply up but so beautiful - oak trees giving way to pine trees with a wonderful smell I’d like to bottle and take home with me.
    Then a very long largely flat section with beautiful trees, flowers and butterflies before we gradually dropped down to San Juan de Ortega where I sat at a cafe for a while and then explored a beautiful Romanesque church.
    On through the forest to Ages with Nick, Paul, Linda and Bernie. Stopped for a painstakingly carefully made cheese and tomato sandwich at the little bar where we ate dinner last year when staying at Agés. Couldn’t get into that hostal this year so walked on for the last 2.2k to Atapuerca through extraordinary fields of flowers. Today staying in a four bed room in Albergue INpulso Atapuerca with Tamami from Japan and Li from Korea - both seem lovely.
    After a wander around town dinner options looked limited so we made our own tomato sauce with pasta with fresh tomatoes and peppers and shared with a Dutch girl going through a big change of career - interesting discussions about wine and politics!
    Going to sleep to the singing of a spotless starling who has a fantastic range of sounds.    Read more

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    Atapureca to Burgos

    June 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Not a great nights sleep at Albergue Inpulso in Atapuerca despite it being a great place. One of our room mates snored and my pillow was one of the solid bolster types which put my neck at what feels like a right angle. But did get some sleep and were ready to leave by 7 following room mates leaving quietly but audibly earlier.
    Set off up onto the Sierra de Atapuerca - high and very cold this morning in the misty cloud.
    Hard walking on a sort of limestone pavement and then downhill to Cardenuela Riopico where I had a delicious tortilla and coffee for breakfast. On the way down heard and actually saw, briefly, a nightingale.
    Then a long slog along mainly paved surfaces into Burgos. Managed to find the ‘river route’ which is pretty well hidden initially but a much more pleasant, and in the end impressive, way of arriving in Burgos.
    On the way in met Didi (the Dutch girl we shared our meal with last night). She was desperately looking for someone who had taken her poles from the Albergue - we took her number in case we saw him!
    Burgos is a beautiful city. We celebrated our arrival with a beer (and some water - very hot by 12) in the cathedral square before trudging off to find our hotel - the Norte y Londres!
    It’s a good place - pretty central with a window out over a square with cafes and bars. May be a bit noisy tonight but worth it for the view.
    The room is now festooned with washing - I couldn’t believe how dirty some of my clothes were. And still have more to do tomorrow.
    Ate lunch at Gaia, my favourite restaurant from last year and then a drink and snacks at Curcuma Green Food (also visited last year) with Bernie, Linda and David. This was probabaly our last supper with them as they are all going on tomorrow and we are stopping for a rest day. I sort of wish I was walking tomorrow as I know I will miss it but think I also need a bit of a rest as it’s been quite full on for the last two weeks. I will miss the others tho - it’s been fun walking with them.
    Found some fab cherries and a great ice cream so my day is complete.
    And no alarm tomorrow!!    Read more

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    1

    Burgos - staying still!

    June 4, 2024 in Spain

    So not a lot to report today. After a good nights sleep went off to find coffee/ breakfast. First coffee in a modern cafe near the river and second one plus fab bowl of coconut yoghurt, granola and fruit, in our favourite Curcuma Green Food.
    Explored the cathedral but enjoyed it even more than last year. It doesn’t feel a particularly holy place, unlike some of the other churches along the way, but it’s an awesome museum of Romanesque, gothic and renaissance art.
    Found plenty of ‘horses of the day’ for Liv both inside and out.
    Wandered up to the (closed) castle and then back through the town with a veggie empañada on the way back. M then did a lot of planning for upcoming stays as there are certain places where I really hope to stay - either for the second time as they were great last year, or because I saw them last year and really wanted to stay this year.
    The camino is made up of many things but the places you stay and the people you meet are at least as important as any other aspect. This year Burgos has not felt as much like my home town as it did last year when I seemed to bump into someone I knew on every corner. Not sure if this is because the camino has been tiered generally this year or because people are a bit less friendly. Either way not the same vibe, but still good.
    Looking forward to meeting lots of new people on the meseta as some of our good friends have either go on or hung back which is sad.
    Two things - put the sound on if you look at the videos - the one inside the cathedral is an ancient clock automaton - his mouth moves as it strikes.
    And view out of our window is from our hotel room.
    Feet are to show they’re not walking feet today!!    Read more

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    121

    Burgos to Hornillos - start of the meset

    June 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After a sound nights sleep left Burgos at about 7. Initially quite cool it warmed up quickly and ended up being the hottest days walking so far.
    I love the Meseta and so this was a great day for me. There is nothing like the quiet of the Meseta and even in the heat I loved it.
    No coffee for nearly 11k but finally coffee and tortilla in Tardajos (note to self might be a nicer and quieter cafe on the left as the path turns off the Main Street) and then a second coffee in Rabé de las calzadas at La Fuente.
    On the way out of Rabé spent a moment at the Ermita de la Virgen de Monasterio with the wonderful nun who gave us a blessing last year. A very special place.
    Then a long hot walk - mainly up hill - tho with one steep down too - to Hornillos del Camino.
    We were at the Hostal checking in before 1 and met up with Nick and Paul doing the same.
    We have the same private room with shared bath that Caroline and I had last year. Hoping for a nightingale to sing me to sleep again!
    Had a potter round Hornillos in the heat looking for horse of the day (finally found in the bar where I bought a fuzzy water to cool down) then back to base for a bit of Pilates stretching and dinner. For me it was a huge salad which I couldn’t finish but for everyone else chicken paella which smelled great.
    Early night now as super early start because of the heat.    Read more

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    1

    Hornillos to Castrojeriz (not San Anton)

    June 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Very warm night and as we were anticipating another very warm day we left at 6 to try to make some progress while it was still coolish.
    First part of the walk was in the dark then gradually it got lighter, revealing the beautiful vista of the meseta.
    Awesome landscapes with fabulous flowers. Definitely one of my favourite places on the camino.
    Found coffee after about 9k - Albergue Fuente Sidres a couple of kilometres before Hontanas (only saying this to remind myself that it might be a good place to stay another time - think Caroline and I thought this too last time but I’d forgotten it). Delicious tortilla.
    Had a quick second coffee at Santa Brígida in Hontanas (also need to remember this is good and has a spa!) then on to San Anton (ruined abbey c14) where I was hoping to stay.
    A sudden shower of rain necessitated rain kit for the first time which was a pain but my poncho is good and it didn’t last long so stripped it off quickly as it was too hot to walk in a waterproof.
    Arrived at San Anton around 10.30 but unlike last year there were no drinks to buy and no hospitaleros around. It had a very different vibe and to be honest there were a lot of bugs so although it was great to look around and take a break, we decided to move on to Castrojeriz.
    On the way into Hontanas we had seen a sign advertising an albergue with a meditation room, zen garden and vegetarian meal. It didn’t include a contact number but I managed to find it on the wise pilgrim app and sent a WhatsApp to see if they had 2 beds available. It only takes 4 people but they replied immediately to say yes (as long as we get the vibe!! No alcohol or smoking and limited phone use!) can do most of that so walked on to Castrojeriz and are now installed in the meditation room which has tatami mat beds. Currently sitting in the zen garden (still very hot so not so zen atm) but it seems lovely and will certainly be interesting. Meditation at 6 and dinner at 7.
    After arriving went off to find some lunch and as recommended by our hospitalero went to local organic cafe and had a delicious tostada with tomato, cucumber, avocado and herbs. Found horse of the day there too.
    Then a much needed shower and the usual washing and now planning chill out session somewhere cool if possible. It’s still really hot and humid. Also need to charge my phone - not sure if that will be controversial or not!
    Managed to charge phone while having a siesta. Clothes dried in hot wind in the garden. Went for a wander ‘sin rumbo’ and found delicious cherries and a vegan banana muffin tho thing for breakfast tomorrow so all good.
    Meditation was good - mostly in Spanish with a bit of explanation where necessary but also mostly in silence. Then dinner. A delicious lentil salad thing with tomatoes, garlic and dill and a warm cous cous dish with raisins, sunflower seeds, carrot strips, dried apricots, peppers and some spices. Sat and chatted with our room mate Manuelo from Barcelona and drank his ginger tea and ate my strange vegan chocolate from Bulgaria (flavoured with cardamom, lemon and ginger - delicious but strange).
    Now time for bed in the meditation room with meditative music still playing (we’re not sure how to turn it off!!)    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler

    Castrojeriz to Boadilla

    June 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    After a great nights sleep despite (apparently)heavy rain and thunderstorms set off through the worlds longest village to the big ‘up’ of Alto de Mostelares. My estimate was that it would only take about 20 mins but in fact only took 15 (I timed it this time as was worried that I had misrepresented how short it actually was!). A wheatear was singing on the cross at the top.
    Then on and fairly quickly down to classic meseta plain. It seemed as if the fields were brimming with their crops - like a meniscus on a glass of water.
    A long morning with no breakfast until about 11k when we arrived at Itero and a big, busy and rather overstretched albergue run by a Ukrainian family. Unfortunately a fellow pilgrim was ill here and they had to get an ambulance - not sure if it was heat exhaustion, sunstroke or some other illness but he was being well looked after by a pilgrim doctor until the ambulance arrived.
    Continued on in increasing heat and humidity to eventually arrive at Boadilla and Albergue Juntos at 12 - about an hour before the hostel opened at 1. So went to another (much smarter) albergue for a fizzy water until it opened.
    We were the only people booked in (although now two more have turned up) so have plenty of space in actual beds not bunks in a pretty big dorm. Counted six storks nests on the church tower - they make a manic clacking sound with their beaks - something I’ve never noticed before. Going back to take a closer look in a while.
    With the help of my camino friends who were walking further today I found two live horses of the day in a field just outside the village - tho it did involve scrambling up a very steep bank and coming down on my bottom and scraping my hand. But all worth it for an actual live horse of the day - two in fact and very pretty ones!
    Have just explored the village. The church is enormous for the size of the village and tbh a bit unloved and smelly. On the top as well as the storks there were a pair of kestrels nesting. The area around the church was alive with all sorts of birds including the storks and the kestrels and hundreds of swifts.
    Now back at the albergue waiting for it to rain which everyone has been expecting it to do for at least 3 hours! Dinner (veggie Thai green curry and Dutch pancakes - the hospitaleros are Dutch) is smelling very good.
    Looking forward to a good evening.
    Dinner was fab - both food and company. There were only four of us - two young South Koreans who are studying in the US - masters and phds respectively. Fascinating conversation about their lives and plans and love of musicals - all the same ones that Liv loves - and they are exactly the same age.
    So good to meet new interesting people.
    And now it’s pouring with rain!!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler

    Boadilla to Carrion de los Condes

    June 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    As we were not allowed to set off before 7 (Dutch albergue with slightly odd but fundamentally very nice hospitaleros) we set off at 7 in very cold slightly drizzly weather.
    Sort of good for walking but really a bit too cold if you needed to stop at any point (see picture of my hand later on where I’d lost all feeling in my fingers). Unusually for a pelegrina I much prefer warm to cold and it was definite too cold for me today.
    The drizzle stopped almost immediately but it remained cold and windy all day.
    A long (about 27k altogether) flat walk with quite a lot of senda (path by road) tho took an alternative csmknonroute at one point which went on farm racks and by a river.
    The start was along the canal de Castile which was interesting and alive with greater reed warblers.
    First coffee in a busy bar in Fromista (inside thank goodness) where the locals were all drinking spirits, and then on, eventually, to Villalcazar de Sirga with its beautiful Templar church - one of my favourite on the camino. Made the mistake of having a cold drink here and sitting outside which resulted in the dead fingers. So to try to warm up in marched at high speed all the rest of the way to Carrión - managing kilometres in under 11 minutes - I was that cold!
    In carrion found hostal - Hostal Santiago - very good private room with sheets and then lunch - a delicious goats cheese salad and french fries.
    Then back to the hostal for a shower, washing and sleep (vv tired today) before going to the singing nuns at 6’followed by mass at 7. Found cress and Nick, paul, Peter and Owen having drinks in the main square but I needed food again so got a cheese plate and a cup of tea (as well as a glass of wine).
    Short blog today as it’s after 10’and I’m tired. Hopefully more time tomorrow.
    Nbput sound on the video - should be a reed warbler    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler

    Carrion de los Condes to Ledigos

    June 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Gentle start this morning as not a very long walk today and pretty much flat. So set off at 7 for the first part of the walk to the coffee van at about 8k.
    The walk left town via the monastery of San zoilo where we stayed last year. Very beautiful hotel but think it was better this year to be more central.
    The coffee spot was as fabulous as before- had delicious tomatoes on toast and coffee then went back for some coconut cake which I took away. Was sad I couldn’t sit there for longer but it was a very cold morning and the wind was getting up and making it really uncomfortable .
    Continued on along the Via Aquitana - a Roman road built several feet above the surrounding low lying land which has always been vulnerable to flooding. Quite extraordinary that they had to bring in all the rock to build the road up - a huge feat 2000 years ago.
    There was then a long stretch to Calzadilla de la Cueza where we had a drink and a rest. It was still very cold in the wind and I was walking in leggings and my jumper for most of the day which is very unusual.
    Great birdsong along the way today and views of the Picos de Europa far away to the right across the vast plain of the meseta. Although the air was cold today it was sunny with tiny unreal looking fluffy white clouds. Quite a surreal landscape in some ways.
    Arrived at Albergue Morena around 1 and met up with Nick and Paul who were already ensconced with beer and sangria. The place is lovely - great room and terrace and garden and very relaxing place to be. Washing is done and looking forward to dinner at the (for me) very civilised hour of 6.30!
    Had a potter round the village to see if I could find a live horse for horse of the day but no luck. Just a few chickens. So came back and did my Spanish.
    Have a headache and did not feel much like dinner but ate a bit. Talked to Liv and am now in bed - it’s 20.41 - but aiming to leave at 6 tomorrow for a long one into the heart of the meseta along the Via Trajana Román road. Definitely the path less travelled as most people take the option of straight along the road.    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler
    1

    Ledigos to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

    June 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Anticipating a long day we got up at 5.15 and were on the road by 6. But it was soo cold!! 3c when we left and by the time we had walked about 5k to Moratinos my hands were so painful I had to stop for a coffee where we could sit inside. Hostal Moratinos was very welcoming, warm with great coffee and I managed to carry my cup to the table without dropping it despite frozen hands. Met Keith from New York there also suffering from the cold and sore feet - his size 52 (!) shoes were rubbing. Not sure where he will make it to tonight but he was moving slowly.
    Left Moratinos feeling a bit more human and the temperature gradually began to rise. Finally got to Sahagun, the official half way point of the Frances, at about 9.45. There found the cafe which I remembered from last year that has wholemeal croissants. Ordered two this year (with coffee total of €5) - absolutely delicious. Met up with Nick and Paul there. We will now not see them until we get to Leon as we are going the route less travelled and they are going the road route and will get there a day earlier.
    In Sahagun we went up to the Santuario de la Peregrina where you can get a certificate that is supposed to be for getting half way but Cress says isn’t really! Got it anyway as it’s a nice certificate and a lovely place to spend a little bit of time. Sahagun would be worth a stop at some point as there are some interesting buildings.
    Then on, and on, and on to the Via Trajana and Calzadilla. It’s a lonely and beautiful route but with little shade and nowhere really to stop tho we had bought stuff for lunch.
    Arrived in Calzadilla around 2 and found David still at our Albergue, where he had stayed last night. He’s having a rest day - much needed after a 32k walk from Ledigos. Our rest day will be in Leon after, hopefully, a river swim in Mansilla tomorrow.
    Have done the usual washing and now charging phone up while writing this and watching it dry! All good on the camino and quite surprised that I don’t feel worse after the 32 k with a ridiculously heavy pack. Planning to send some stuff forward from Leon!
    Dinner with Cress and David - delicious and ended with melon so perfect. This is a good place to stay and they seemed pleased that I had come back a second time.
    NB watch the video with the sound turned up - it’s a nightingale singing!    Read more

  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoTraveler

    Calzadilla to Mansila de las Mulas

    June 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    This was my hardest day so far. Although I slept well the alarm woke me at 5.40 and it was quite difficult to get up. We were in the road by about 6.25 but managed to pause my map app early on so it doesn’t reflect the actual distance we walked (but only 23.5k). I seem to have done something to my knee - the left one unusually as normally it’s the right one that goes wrong!
    So today was hard work despite not being super long. I was feeling tired and my knee hurt every time I stopped (bizarrely not so much when actually walking). Plus think I’m feeling generally a bit off colour which doesn’t help.
    Enough about ailments - hoping tomorrow will be better.
    So the walk was along a fabulous piece of Roman road in constant use in told for over 2000 years. Clear empty wide skies and mountains off to the right (north). The occasional copse full of bird life and always a nightingale singing.
    It felt a bit like how I imagine the Wild West must feel - a lonely train track crossing it with the odd goods train passing. No services at all and nowhere even to sit except the barn with the bench outside after about 18k.
    Weather was cool and mainly cloudy so again was walking in my jumper which seems odd in the middle of June.
    We decided to divert to the ‘’main’ route at Reliegos in attempt to find somewhere to sit and have coffee. That was a mistake as nowhere was open at 9.30 in the morning (think overnight pilgrims had left and todays batch hadn’t arrived on the whole) so had to trudge on through and then continue on another 6k to Mansila.
    Finally got a much needed coffee and checked into the albergue, got clean and did washing.
    This is a place where when you order a coffee or a tea or any drink you get ‘pinchos’. So basically had lunch by buying a coffee then a tea rojo which both came with slices of tortilla and bread and a little cake. Very good value for €1.50.
    This is a lovely little walled town with a beautiful river and interesting traditional shops. Ferreterías and Papelerías were explored but I’m very tired now so back at base sorting out the admin before going out to eat at 7 at a highly rated restaurant that promises some food I can eat! Hoping so.
    Dinner at La Curiosa - delicious, if pescatarian, but probably needed the protein after yesterday and it was a good place. Ate with David and Patsy and Angela from California and Colorado respectively. Patsy is a professor of ceramic so she and cress had a lot to talk about.    Read more

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