Camino de nuevo

May - June 2024
A 38-day adventure by Fiona Read more
  • 41footprints
  • 3countries
  • 38days
  • 577photos
  • 19videos
  • 2.1kkilometers
  • 601kilometers
  • Day 1

    The beginning

    May 22 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Finally on my way for a second Camino Frances! I’m feeling very blessed as it’s been touch and go for so long. Despite plans to walk with Cressida going back to sometime last year I was then hospitalised in the Marsden for 10 days in January and left with massive loss of strength and huge dietary problems - so thought I’d never make it Then I injured my knee treating to go back to ballet too quickly. However owing to some fantastic professionals (my team at the Marsden, Tracey Vinnicombe sports therapist) and my amazing family I’m on the Eurostar ready to depart and feeling pretty strong again.
    I haven’t done much practice this time with the bag and the hills but hoping I’ll get fit as I go (going over the Pyrenees!)
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  • Day 1

    A long day

    May 22 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Still on the train heading south but nearly at Bayonne now - it’s the next stop.
    Having got up at 3.30am I’m feeling a bit tired but hopefully that means I’ll sleep tonight whatever the dormitory is like. The train is good and this leg is quiet. I’ve read a bit, watched a bit of tv and tried to snooze but not very successfully. I’m not good at sleeping on transport. Looking forward to an hour in Bayonne as the sun is shining on and off and then the final stretch to St Jean Pied de Port and the Albergue. Temperature outside is 20 and not raining so all good!Read more

  • Day 1

    And the end of the first day

    May 22 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Arrived at St Jean in the pouring rain so had to hastily find and don huge poncho thing -but it actually worked well. Got to the Auberge Beilan without going wrong as it’s close to where I stayed last year. No bunks and lots of lovely people so all very good. Dinner was fab - home cooked soup and veggie dish followed by fabulous chocolate torte. After dinner went for a short walk - the town is stunning and the weather had Clea Ed so we could see some mountains. Recorded my first birdsong.
    Now lights are out and someone is already snoring gently! I’m going to be wearing headphones! But very tired so hope I’ll sleep through any communal noise that seeps through.
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  • Day 2

    St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

    May 23 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Well I’m definitely not as fit as I was last year! This was very hard - felt almost vertical at times. My legs were fine but felt like I was about to expire at moments.
    Had a reasonable night at Auberge Bidean - quite a lot of coughing noises but still slept enough. Didn’t need an early start as Orisson is only about three hours away - although we did it faster than that despite feeling knackered for most of it. Had a wander round the beautiful St Jean. Lit a candle in the church and had a delicious breakfast of fab coffee and the best pain au raisin ever.
    Set off about 9.45 in perfect (for hard walking) weather. Cool and quite cloudy but dry.
    I am a bit worried as I did find this stage really hard but am hoping I will get fitter quite quickly.
    Arrived at Orisson and found our beds in a ten person dorm then went for a drink and I had a bowl of soup as was feeling very cold having got sweaty on the climb. Unfortunately that didn’t really help and I just got colder and colder. Eventually my fingers - all ten - went white and stopped working so I had to use my precious shower token in an attempt to warm up.
    It has worked thank goodness and have done my bit of washing and now have eaten some of my day old sandwiches with crisps. Aiming to have a short sleep this afternoon as I am still feeling tired. Will check back in later!
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  • Day 2

    At Orisson

    May 23 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Had a fab sleep and finally warmed up (they have blankets here) then pottered around until dinner. Very busy cena with introductions from all the other pilgrims at the end of the meal.
    Despite all the good stuff I’m feeling anxious because the news from home about freddie (my springer spaniel) is not good. He has a raging infection and has been on a drip at the vets all day. I took him before I left as I was worried about him but he seems a lot worse. He’s quite old and I’m very worried about him. My family are doing a great job but I’m feeling very guilty about not being there to help them and him. They are all in my thoughts tonight.Read more

  • Day 3

    Orisson to Roncesvalles

    May 24 in France ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Pretty rubbish night at Orisson hostel with whispering (couple opposite my bed) snoring and people going in and out to the loo - I was right by the door so the hall light shone onto me every time someone got up. The whole dorm started moving before 6 despite breakfast starting at 7 (and you do need to eat breakfast at this place as there is nothing certain until Roncesvalles!).
    Anyway I got over having to get up 45 minutes earlier than I wanted and felt better after a couple of cups of coffee.
    Set off at 7.50 in beautiful weather and had the most glorious walk in the high Pyrenees. Cool air but bright sun, perfect for walking and I saw the snow capped peaks that I missed last time because of the cloud. Also a pair of eagles - tried to get a photograph but very difficult to capture them.
    Ate a picnic lunch with the last of the sandwiches from home, crisps and an apple in a field with a horse but not a person in sight.
    We arrived in Roncesvalles just before 1 and checked into the monastery. I really wanted to stay here but was feeling quite nervous as I was concerned that it would be very basic and cold. In fact it’s wonderful - I still may not get any sleep but the dorms are fab and the facilites great. Lots of hot water, single sex bathrooms great laundry facilities, vending machines with everything you might need and wonderful grounds with washing lines to dry the clothes. My washing is already clean and dry!
    After arriving went to the local bar for very welcome beer and chips - hoping the meal tonight will be as good!
    Have done my Pilates stretches and now ready for dinner and then hopefully more sleep than last night!
    Very sad news from home so could t write any more - sorry 😔
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  • Day 3

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    May 24 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    This is going to be a short entry because I’m feeling very sad.
    My precious and beloved springer spaniel Freddie died today. I didn’t really get to say a proper goodbye to him because I’m here. But he was with Richard Olivia Sasha Toby and Arthur who loved him too. I’m now imagining that he will be on this Camino with me, with his favourite tennis ball and enjoying lots of swimming in the rivers.
    Scenery beautiful, weather beautiful, many tears.
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  • Day 5

    Zubiri to Pamplona - a day of flowers

    May 26 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Walking today was full of the sounds of water - running in channels alongside the path and then in the river Arba. The weather is warm today but not too hot - plenty of shade on the path but also banks of wild flowers and the scent of wild roses and honeysuckle.
    I heard my first nightingale today - hoping for many more.
    We left around 7.30 and arrived in Pamplona at about 2. I had my first good nights sleep at Suseia in Zubiri and tonight at the Aloha hostel in Pamplona there are sheets and towels for the first time which is very exciting. Caroline and I stayed here last time and I think we have the identical room but one floor up.
    It didn’t seem quite so far to the hostel this time - maybe we are a bit less tired this time?
    The walk today was moderate - some undulations but fundamentally quite level. First coffee didn’t happen until about 10k but when it did it was good - delicious coffee and a great spinach tortilla.
    Managed to buy more cherries on the walk into Pamplona despite it being a Sunday so all good on the cherry craving front.
    Now planning to explore the city a bit and hopefully get into the cathedral which we didn’t do last time if I remember right.
    Well the cathedral was closed - again - so I’ll just have to come back again!
    It suddenly cooled down this afternoon so I was very cold in my summer dress - but still managed a fab ice cream after tapas at Bar Groucho with other friends from the Camino. Then back to the hostel where we sat around in the living area chatting for a while before what I’m hoping will be another early night and good sleep.
    The city is still buzzing but I’m tired.
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  • Day 6

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    May 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Set off from Pamplona after a dodgy nights sleep. Two rounds of very loud dustbin lorries collecting from, what seemed like, right outside the window at about midnight then at about 1.15. To make things worse I was wide awake well before 5 tho didn’t need to get up till 6. Two proper coffees at the hostal helped to revive me a bit.
    Anyway got going by 7 for the urban walk out of Pamplona in much colder, cloudier conditions. Found breakfast at about 8 in a funny little old bar - great tortilla.
    Then a long hike up Alto de Perdón to the iron pilgrim sculptures and whirring wind turbines. It was extremely windy so unlike last year no one lingered long but headed down pretty fast to the bottom where it must have been a degree or two warmer.
    Not many places to stop today and we hadn’t really brought lunch (bread but no cheese) so it was a hungry walk and I was pretty desperate by the end of the afternoon.
    Some pretty villages and eventually found somewhere to have a cup of tea which was very exciting!
    Weather improved a bit with some sunshine towards the end of the walk - but the cold wind persisted throughout and made it very uncomfortable at times as I just don’t have enough clothes for post walk.
    Fabulous flowers again today - can’t believe the variety along the way - including beautiful irises which I don’t remember seeing before.
    Another nightingale plus corn buntings and serins to listen to.
    Puente la Reina is a lovely town - I hardly saw it last time as it was under water following torrential downpours but this time I was able to wander around and appreciate it more fully. Dinner at Vinoteca Ganbara again - wonderful food and wine and felt good supporting a very small business rather than going somewhere more commercial (not that many places are very commercial around here).
    Not very taken with the hostal but we have sheets and towels and our own bathroom which is good.
    Still thinking about Freddie and lit a candle for him at the church of San Andres in Zariquiegui
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  • Day 7

    Puente la Reina to Estella - cuckoo #1

    May 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Great nights sleep despite the cell like room. Left at 7 and it was the most beautiful morning, tho cold. 6 degrees initially but now it’s 26!
    I was so happy! Exquisite day with more flowers, birds and the first cuckoo, which is always important. I know I’ll hear many more but the first one is exciting.
    Coffee after about 5k which is perfect. Then it became hotter and hotter as we walked though some beautiful hill villages.
    At Lorca I bought a sparkling water and sat for a while in the shade. Then after another hot stretch found the perfect bench seat in the shade where I had some lunch.
    However we have a problem as Cressida has hurt her leg and doesn’t know whether she’s going to be able to walk. A bit of a disaster! She’s yet to consult a pharmacist and I’m hoping it may not be as bad as she thinks but not good after less than a week. The walking is definitely tough particularly when you are carrying your stuff.
    So finally arrived around 2. It was very very hot and I was wilting. Very pleased to get Hostal de los Curtidores - the same place that Caroline and I stayed in last year and right at the beginning of the town. Did the inevitable washing and went to see what time one of my favourite restaurants of the Camino - Bar Mundo- opened - only to find that it was closed for ‘works’ today. Disaster as I was really hungry and in need of a proper meal. So change of plan and found another bar with some veggie food and a terrace overlooking the river. Food was good - service not so good but location was fab. Ice cream and a spot of food shopping later and I am in bed at 8.30 - very exhausted and aiming to set off at 6 tomorrow because of the heat.
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