A 24-day adventure by Kelly Read more
  • 35footprints
  • 6countries
  • 24days
  • 274photos
  • 6videos
  • 18.4kkilometers
  • 15.8kkilometers
  • Day 1

    And We Are Off!

    July 4, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Brad and I have been talking about this trip for a year and now… it’s finally time to depart.

    We left our house around 8 am after a good-bye to Evan. This is, in fact, our first time traveling overseas without him in tow. Brad and I have travelled overseas separately before meeting, but our trips to France and Italy were as a family.

    Our flight out of Winnipeg was delayed but only by 10 minutes and our trip to Vancouver was uneventful. We did, however, discover that you don’t seem to get cookies or pretzels on the flight anymore. Good thing I packed some trail mix!

    We had a very quick bite in Vancouver as we got in a bit late and our layover was only 90 minutes. We began boarding our flight to Seoul at 12:15 and were in the air by 1pm.

    About an hour into our 11-hour journey, we were served our meal of Korean chicken and rice, which was far better than many of the airplane meals we’ve had before.

    I slept for the first four-ish hours of the flight as I’m using the app “Time-shifter” to try and stave off jet lag. It basically tells you (based on your flight info) when to sleep, nap, caffeinate, and when to get light exposure. I’ll let you know how it goes!

    Only seven hours left until we reach Seoul… yikes.

    We finally made it to Seoul on Wednesday at 3:45 pm (local time). The plane ride wasn’t nearly as bad as I had envisioned, and I discovered where all the pretzel/cookie money went as we were served three meals on the flight! I’m not even sure what meals they were as we skipping over time zones like mad. Essentially, we lost half of Tuesday and half of Wednesday.

    Anyway, time to rest and recharge in the airport lounge and then off to Hanoi at 7pm! We should arrive there at 10pm (local time) which will be 10 am for the MB folks at home!
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  • Day 2

    Arriving in Hanoi

    July 5, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We spent a few hours in the lounge and tried out several Korean dishes and canned drinks (green plum is delicious!). I have no doubt that we would enjoy spending some real time in South Korea as opposed to just seeing the airport, but that’s another trip for another year.

    We boarded our plane for Hanoi, which was quite different than North American boarding. Here, there were no zones to be called or rhyme or reason - it was just, “Are you going to Hanoi? Get in this line!” To be honest, it was more civil but that might just be the people.

    Brad and I were both exhausted. Nearing a solid 24 hours of traveling, this leg was a tough one. However, the sweetly dressed Asiana airline attendants served us the cutest little meal with real silverware and that perked us up briefly.

    We landed in Hanoi around 9:45 pm (9:45 am MB time) and made our way through customs and to baggage. Luckily, we found our airport shuttle driver quickly and he whisked us away into downtown Hanoi.

    One thing I noticed on our drive in was that the speed limit and lane lines are merely suggestions. I thought our driver was going to hit several scooter drivers, but somehow everyone seemed to know the “rules” of the road.

    In any case, it’s midnight and we need to get on Vietnam time. Goodnight!
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  • Day 3

    Ho Chi Minh, Confucius and Humidity

    July 6, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    This morning I was up at the bright and early hour of 4 AM due to jet lag. Brad was able to sleep a little bit longer, but both of us were up by about 5:30 in the morning and ready to get going. Our hotel, as it’s the first stop of our tour, has a continental breakfast, which is very different here than it is at home. For example, there was rice, sticky, rice, noodles, porridge, pho and many other accoutrements. I indulge in lots of noodles, sticky rice, and a couple eggs over easy which the chef made in front of us. It was a delicious way to start the day!

    We felt it was already 30° at about 6 AM that we should get moving and maybe spend some time in the afternoon cooling down. We started our walk towards the Tran Quoc Pagoda, and found a cafe along the way. Finally, the moment was here to try Vietnamese iced coffee! We had one of those as well as a coconut iced coffee, which was amazing! We also got to sit on a little bench with a little table just like all the locals.

    We continued our walk, and we discovered that no one really walks in Vietnam. I think the reason that no one walks is because a) it’s so hot and b) everyone just drive scooters. We also discovered that the traffic rules are even looser than previously mentioned. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to anything going on, including the little green man that tells you it’s safe to walk because it is definitely not safe to walk!

    Nonetheless, we reach the pagoda and checked it out. The trees around the pagoda were enormous and provided some much-needed shade after our walk. It was also especially beautiful, because it was on the edge of a lake. After checking out, the pagoda all the offerings inside, we started to make our way to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. We didn’t really plan to go here necessarily, but it was on our way to the temple of literature so we stopped in and bought tickets. We didn’t we didn’t line to see the actual body of Ho Chi Minh; however, we were able to check out the grounds of his residences, as well as the vehicles he drove, house on stilts that he lived in for a while and his other accommodations, which were pretty cool.

    After seeing the sites, we continued on to the temple of literature. The Temple of Literature is one of those famous sites in Hanoi. It’s where students were taught the works of Confucius and other Chinese philosophers. The students had to write grueling, high stakes exams, in order to pass the test and get their name forever engraved on one of the big slabs of rock. The slabs are mounted on turtles which represent permanence, which I thought was pretty cool. There were very few students at pass these high stakes examinations. The temple itself is split into different areas that represent the idea of contemplation and spirituality and synthesis. It was a very beautiful and meaningful temple.

    By this time it was starting to get pretty hot, so we decided to try and go to the famous beer street. However, it seemed that the beer street was not open yet, and it was very unclear as to when it was ever going to open. That is one of the differences we have found so far about travelling in southeast Asia is that everything is pretty nebulous, and Google is often not much help. On the bright side, I did find a hat to protect me from the sun!

    We decided to head back to the hotel to stock up on some water and beer from the convenient store across the street from our hotel and make a game plan for where to eat some lunch. As it is so hot here neither of us are very hungry after a big breakfast, but we know we will be.
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  • Day 3

    Ho Chi Minh Cont’d

    July 6, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    We got back to our hotel to avoid the scorching heat of the day. After cooling off in the air-conditioning of our room, Brad went to get some waters and beers from across the street at the convenience store.

    By about 2 pm, we were brave enough to get back on the steamy streets and find lunch. I should mention that the sidewalks are not really for pedestrians. They are mainly used to park scooters on and to sit on (I.e. small restaurants have their little plastic chairs and tables outside). This makes Hanoi a very challenging walking city, but nonetheless, we made it work and walked/stumbled/traversed through the maze of streets and sidewalks to get some bahn mi.

    The bahn mi (sandwiches with pork, pate, pickled carrots, and cilantro) were really good and substantial enough to keep us full until the evening.

    After our late lunch, we tried to avoid napping but finally gave in and had a very brief 30 minute siesta.

    Our group met for the first time at 6pm and everyone is from England! They all seem lovely and I imagine the 10 of us will get on just fine. We had a group meeting and then went for a group dinner. Now, we need to figure out packing as we leave for Halong Bay in the morning! I won’t have wifi while we are sleeping on the junk boat overnight, but I’ll post when we get back to Hanoi on Saturday!
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  • Day 4

    Halong Bay or Bust

    July 7, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    This morning we enjoyed one last breakfast at our hotel (the fruit here is exceptional!) and then met our group in the lobby. We all piled on to a large bus and started our three hour drive to Halong Bay, which is in the northeastern part of Vietnam.

    Brad and I were completely stunned to find that once you leave Hanoi proper there exists a large suburban area that looks fairly North American. This is a stark contrast from the crowded, noisy, and building on top of building look that a lot of Hanoi has.

    Our guide explained a lot of the history of Vietnam to us while also showing us the rice, vegetable, and duck and fish farms along the highway. We were able to see the vast ponds filled with blooming lotus flowers as well as water buffalo! It’s a bit unfortunate that we were in a bus and weren’t able to get good photos, but the rice farms were really something to behold! You can only grow rice three times during a year as it takes about four months to grow and process. The south can grow rice year long because it’s warmer, but the north cannot grow rice during their winter.

    We were so pleased to even just leave the city for a bit to see the countryside!

    About two hours into our bus ride, we stopped at a shop that employs people who are disabled. Many, including the man we met, have been disfigured due to the lasting impact of Agent Orange. They are employed at this shop to create handicrafts and other works of art for purchase.

    Back on the road, we had an hour until we reached the resort-like Halong Bay. We were taken to our junk boat where we would spend the day and sleep overnight. Once on the boat, we were served an eight course meal that featured squid, spring rolls, rice, fish cakes, crab cakes, and fresh fruit for dessert. Then, we set off on a smaller boat to go kayaking in the bay. This was probably one of the coolest moments of my life! The islands (there are 1969 of them!) rise up out of the bay and they are incredible! We got to kayak around the cove and through one of the caves in an island. It was beautiful!

    Following kayaking, we made a quick pit stop back at our main boat to get changed for a hike and swim. We went to another island where we hiked to the top (very similar to the Grouse Grind) and took in the panoramic views. Then we hiked back down and got to go swimming, which was quite refreshing after all the heat and humidity we’ve endured.

    After an hour of swimming, we went back to the main boat to watch the sunset from the top deck. For dinner, we had another ten course meal with grilled prawns, oysters, curry, fish with mushrooms, papaya salad, grilled cabbage, and fresh fruit. Once dinner was over, the group sang some karaoke (no, not Brad) and then Brad and I retired down below for the evening. We have an early start tomorrow as breakfast is at 7 am and then we are off to explore some caves!
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  • Day 5

    Halong Bay and Back to Hanoi

    July 8, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    I had a fairly pleasant sleep on the boat last night, but Brad was awake at 3 am. I will say that it got quite bright early on, but we had to be up for breakfast at 7 anyway.

    Breakfast was a simple toast and eggs so that we could eat quickly and then get on the small boat to head out to the caves. After a short ride, we got to the island and started climbing the stairs to enter the first cave. If I had just seen the first cave, I would have thought it was well worth it. However, there were four or five more caves after that - each slightly more expanse and impressive than the last! The stalactites and stalagmites were numerous and the ceiling of the cave had been shaped by the sea water to create smooth, curved shapes. It just seemed to go on and on and on!

    After about an hour in the caves, we boarded the boat again to return to our main craft. We had to get packed up and “check out” of our rooms before brunch was served at 10:30. Brunch consisted of fried squid, pork curry, fish in pomegranate sauce, shrimp in tamarind, jicama salad, and vegetable noodle dish followed by dragon fruit for dessert. It’s been more challenging to take food pictures as food comes sporadically and the expectation is that you eat as soon as it arrives (there’s no waiting for everyone’s food to arrive). Anyway, it was absolutely delicious!

    Our small boat came and picked us up to take us back to port where we boarded our bus and headed back to Hanoi.

    We are currently waiting for our street food tour to begin, so perhaps I’ll end this entry and start a new one for the latter half of our day!
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  • Day 5

    Food Tour and Overnight Train

    July 8, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 36 °C

    Once we were back in Hanoi, we were deposited at our hotel and had about an hour before our food tour began. Most of our GAdventures group has decided to do the tour, which was nice. Our guide, Minh, took us to a small restaurant where two small girls served their mom’s bean sprout pancakes to us. We wrap them in lettuce and leaves that smelled of lemon and then wrapped that in rice paper. We also had deep fried rice flour fritters, which were dipped in fish sauce.

    Our next stop was a pho restaurant; however, since it’s summer, they do a pho noodle dish with all the regular flavours just without the broth. It was so good that I wouldn’t be sad if I ate it daily!

    Then, we stopped on the street of beer to try locally brewed beer. This was a group favourite as our one sample turned into many samples! It was also much cooler in the place than outside! After a few brews, we walked to get sticky rice with ice cream and fresh coconut. It sounds odd, but it was actually quite delicious, especially the fresh coconut!

    Our final stop was the craziest one of all. We went down a small alley and then up a tiny back staircase to get into a coffee shop. This family specialized in egg cream coffees, which had been invented by their grandfather. It consists of coffee and whipped egg yolks and sugar. It is sweet, thick and creamy. You could definitely only drink one, but I would have another in a second!

    Our guide walked us back to our hotel and we waited for our bus to arrive. The bus whisked us off to the train station to catch our overnight train to Hue. Currently, I’m sitting on the top bunk of our four bed car. This certainly isn’t a European train, so I’m hopeful that we can all get some sleep but…
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  • Day 6

    So, Overnight Trains…

    July 9, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    I’ll be honest in that I won’t go recommending you spend 13 hours on an overnight Vietnamese train. However, it’s one of those things that you’re glad you did it, but equally glad it’s over. Luckily, we got to share our train car with our friends on the trip, Helen and Anthony. They are from London and I would say they’re the most similar couple to us on the trip. We spent a good three or four hours just chatting with them and sharing beers in our train car before getting ready for bed.

    Brad to come back with news that the train bathroom was covered in about an inch and a half of water which made me very nervous to use it. However, by the time I went to use it, things have resolved themselves and the floor was merely wet as opposed to covered in water. One thing that we have learned very quickly here in Vietnam is it toilet paper is not really a thing and instead they use what is referred to as the “bum gun” to clean yourself after you’ve gone to the washroom. I can’t really say I’ve gotten into this practice.

    In any case, it was finally time to go to bed, and I slept on the top bunk while Brad took the bottom bunk. It was quite warm in a little car all together, and the rails were a bit rough to say the least. I think I dozed, more than I slept, and probably accumulated only about four hours of sleep by sunrise, which happened around 5:30 in the morning we all started to wake and I think all of us were finally up around six. We reached the train station at about 9 AM this morning and we were happy to get off the train.

    Arriving in Hue (pronounced whey) we could already tell it was quite different than Hanoi. The streets are cleaner, the traffic is less chaotic, and generally things seem more organized. Our bus ride to the hotel only took 10 minutes. We can check into our rooms yet as they weren’t ready so our guy took us around the block to a restaurant for breakfast. The specialty in Hue is basically a meatball and noodle soup called bun bo hue. Brad and I both had bowls of it alongside iced salt coffee, which sounds odd, but is so good! It kind of tastes like a salted caramel latte!

    After breakfast was over our guide tried to take us on a small little walking tour, but it was so insanely hot but all the group wanted to do was go use the pool on the seventh floor of our hotel. Luckily the hotel pool is outdoors, but is covered entirely, and the water was quite cool. Everyone found it very refreshing!

    Once our rooms are ready around noon, we went and got, showered and changed, which felt great after our long time on the train earlier. We had until 2 o’clock to get ready and then we were off on our bus to the Royal Citadel, which was the King’s home. The property was incredibly large, stretching blocks and blocks long. Unfortunately, a lot of the buildings have been destroyed during the conflict between north and south Vietnam. They are still working today on some reconstruction of the site but we were able to see the theater, the reading room, and the remains of some other palaces that his many wives and concubines inhabited.

    After the Citadel, we went to Tien Mu Pagoda where many monks live. This is also the place where famous monk Thich Quang Duc lived. He is the monk that set himself on fire in protest of the south Vietnamese president trying to get rid of monks and Buddhism altogether. We were fortunate enough to witness the monks gathering to chant as well, which was pretty cool to see and hear!

    Or last of the day, was the royal tomb. It took a little longer to get there. It was sort out in the countryside. We got to pass a whole bunch of incense shops on the side of the road. They spit out their incense bundles in colourful patterns to attract buyers, so it’s really cool to see. We had the royal tomb all to ourselves as there were no other visitors there. The tomb was quite ornate, as one might guess. However, grave robbers stole the King’s body and so it is not so much a tomb as much as a monument.

    It had been a really long day already and so the group decided to go for supper as soon as we got back to the hotel around 6 o’clock. Our guide took us to a great little restaurant that was packed with locals so we knew it was going to be good. Brad and I decided to do the set tasting menu to try a little bit of everything, and we certainly were not disappointed. I will post a picture of the menu as well for pictures of food in a separate post as I am having a difficult time remembering and describing the things that we have eaten here in Vietnam. Everything is so different than what we are used to, but we are really enjoying the local cuisine.

    We’ve also discovered that small Vietnamese children seem to really enjoy practising their English with us. At dinner a couple of young girls asked us where we were from and turned and giggled. After I told her we were from Canada, I could hear them telling their other friends about us being from Canada! Walking back to the restaurant, we also ran into a few boys who were eager to practice their hellos with us. Because it is Sunday, they have closed off a lot of the streets around the hotel into pedestrian streets and it’s neat to see the street vendors out and about. We are really exhausted and are probably going to call it an early evening as we are going on a scooter to her bright and early tomorrow.
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