Et 24-dagers eventyr av Kelly Les mer
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  • Dag 7

    Off to Hoi An

    10. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We had a great night’s sleep and were ready to get the day started when I went to the washroom
    and was promptly scared away by two big cockroaches! Brad, being a very brave soul, went in and killed them, only to find another outside the washroom door and two more hiding in the corner of the ceiling!

    Reluctantly, I checked every towel before having a very fast shower! Once ready, we went up to the hotel’s breakfast which featured pho, eggs, fresh fruit galore and many pastries. The passion fruit and lychee were both so fresh and delicious! Vietnam is also big on fruit juices so we are drinking watermelon juice quite regularly.

    At 8, we meet our motorbike drivers for the morning. Brad and I didn’t originally book this bike tour, but after seeing so much of Hue yesterday, we decided to go on it so we could go to some smaller villages. I think we were both nervous having seen the traffic and how people drive here, but we got on our helmets and hopped on the back of the bikes and we were off!

    I wish I was brave enough to have removed by hands from the shoulders of my driver so that I could video the insane traffic and many near misses, but I wasn’t. We zoomed (effortlessly?) through the morning rush hour and I reflected on my life and if this was indeed a stupid way to die! In any case, I held on for dear life and tried to enjoy the views.

    The ride was far less harrowing once we left the city and I began to understand the allure of the motorbike as a means of travel. The breeze is pretty great when you’re going 70 km/h!

    Our first stop was to see how rice is harvested and prepared. I had no idea that the rice grains all begin as brown rice and then can be polished by pounding to make white rice! Brad got asked to pretend to be a water buffalo as well, so please check out that photo because the woman pretended to whip him and it was hilarious as it sounds!

    Before leaving, the woman who was doing the demonstration gave us bananas from her garden. I actually dislike bananas, but these were shorter, fatter and more dense. I thought they were great! Anyway, after our banana break, we went to the local market. Women everywhere were seated on the floor with piles of vegetables, fruit, and fish and meat. Nothing is refrigerated. It was quite the sight to see raw, butchered chicken and duck just hanging out in the heat. This is quite common as electricity is scarce here (and, as such, expensive).

    We hopped back on the bikes and drove through more small towns, which I loved seeing! Our second stop was at a forest where there were three American bunkers leftover from the Vietnam War. There had been a big battle at the site as it is fairly close to the DMZ.

    Back on the bikes, we scooted onto a street of people selling incense. Incense is incredibly popular as it’s used as an offering for the spirits of their ancestors. All the shops have colourful displays out front and it’s not uncommon for people to get dressed up and do photo shoots in the shops. I got to try making incense as well, but I won’t give up my day job anytime soon! We also got to see a woman weaving a conical hat, which many people still wear.

    Our final stop was at the colosseum. Between 1865-1902, the king would host battles between an elephant and a tiger three times a year. This was done as a symbolic demonstration of his power. The elephant is a symbol of the king and because the elephant always won, it was a message to any potential rebels that they should stay within their station. The French put an end to this practice.

    Our journey back into the city was scary, but we all made it back in one piece! Despite a few nerve wracking moments, we were so glad to have gone on the tour!

    Brad and I grabbed a quick lunch of bahn khoai and shrimp, pork and cassava steamed in banana leaves before getting ready to board our bus on the way to Hoi An. The bus ride will take about three hours and we get to drive through the mountains!
    Les mer

  • Dag 7

    Off to Hoi An (just photos)

    10. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
  • Dag 7

    Off to Hoi An

    10. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    After loading up the bus, we started our journey to Hoi An. We had to take a little bus as we were driving through the mountains and switchbacks in the mountains were very tight. We’ve driven through the mountains in Vancouver and this was nothing compared to that. They were constantly sign showing that your car could fall off the cliff and go into the South China Sea! We stop briefly at a roadside Café so we could check out the view and in the distance you can see the city of Da Nang. Will be returning to Da Nang when we fly out to go to Ho Chi Minh City in a few days.

    The bus riders are there uneventful but the scenery was quite beautiful. We eventually arrived in Hoi An at about 3:30. The old quarter of Hoi An is a UNESCO heritage site. As such, the close it to scooters at several points during the day.

    Retard hotel in McGill about an hour to get changed and ready to go. This hotel also has an indoor pool but there is no roof, so it is kind of like an open air pool. Once we were all ready to go, we went to the old corner to buy tickets. We had a ticket to enter the old quarter and this is how they make money in order to restore various sites in the old quarter. We also had about a one hour tour provided by a guide of the old quarter. Our guide showed us various tailor shops, as that is what one of the things that Hoi An is known for.

    After the tour ended, our main guide, Tong, ushered us to a restaurant for supper. Is Hoi An is a bit of a tourist attraction for Koreans, the food wasn’t anything to write home about but was still tasty nonetheless. Also, a group of lots of laughs at dinner as we are starting to each other pretty well in the jokes were flying. The Brits, especially, have a great sense of humor!

    Many of us return to the tailor shop after dinner because we wanted to get things tailor made. I am getting a dress made, and I will go back for a fitting tomorrow and then a final sitting on the last day that we are in Hoi An. I don’t believe I’ve ever had anything tailor made for me so this is pretty exciting. We also chose a fabric for the dress that is symbolic of some flowers that appear in Vietnam so I’m hoping it makes for a great souvenir. Brad is getting a leather belt made as well!

    Once all her measurements were taken, and everyone was satisfied, our guide took us to a bar. The bar was only about a quarter full until we arrived, filling up the rest of the place. There was a cover band playing and the band members were pretty young. They kept playing very old songs by Bob Seger and Dire Straits as well as the Beatles, and when they played a rendition of “Hey Jude”, we brought the place down by joining in and singing along. The young Vietnamese singer told us afterwards that we had made his day by singing along with him. I think he felt like he was a pretty big rockstar as we belted out “na na nananah hey Jude!” so loudly that people were taking videos of us! It was a memorable moment!

    Brad and I packed it in around 10 o’clock as we were pretty tired and we were eager to get some sleep. We are happy to be in Hoi An for a few days so we can rest relax and get our laundry done!
    Les mer

  • Dag 8

    Hoi An

    11. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    This morning I was able to sleep in till 8 AM. Unfortunately, Brad was up at about 5 AM once again. After we got ready, we went down for the hotel breakfast as usual. It was not as deluxe as what we’ve been experiencing, but the fresh fruit is such a treat. We have to try a different colour of dragon fruit (this one was red on the inside), and a different type of lychee, which was spiky instead of smooth on the outside.

    Following breakfast, we decided to try and beat the already oppressive heat of the day and head into the old quarter. In the old quarter you cannot ride a scooter between certain hours which is quite pleasant. You also need a ticket to enter the old quarter, and every time you visit one of the attractions, your ticket is clipped. There are also a lot of stalls selling a variety of products, including fake designer bags, and lots of clothing shops.

    Our first stop was a temple, which was neat because it had huge circular coils of incense burning in the middle of the coils. People had written messages or hopes and wishes for their family for the year, and as the incense burns it sends those wishes into the world. We have found that as we are touring Southeast Asia, many of the attractions that we’re seeing do not have a lot of information especially in English so sometimes we’re unsure of what we’re actually looking at. Nonetheless, we visited a few more attractions in the old corner. When was a house where seven generations of the family have lived in. They own the famous Confucius cop, which you can only fill 80% full; if you fill it more than 80% full, it leaks out this hole in the bottom. The message is that you should not be greedy because if you’re greedy, then you can lose everything. In this house we also got to see the flood lines from various years. One year the whole first floor of the house flooded and they have this pulley system to pull all the furniture up into the second floor. It has flooded more in the past 20 years than ever before in history.

    We also went to local folklore Museum where we got to see how silk is made and harvested as well as some calligraphy. One thing that is a bit unfortunate about Vietnam is that everyone is constantly trying to sell you something. So every time we go into the museum or shop we constantly feel like we are being hassled to purchase something. Our guide told us that the Vietnamese do not beg for money instead everybody will try and sell you a product or sell you a service in order to make money. It’s clear that the Vietnamese are very hard-working people, and this is just a big difference between North America and Asia.

    Around 11 we decided was getting pretty hot so we went back to our hotel to cool down and make sure we were stocked up on water before our afternoon adventure. We met our group again at 12:30 and we’re off in an electric car which is like a little mini bus taxi to go to Oodles of Noodles, which is one of our G for Good adventure stops. The tour company that we are with sponsors, this initiative, the trains young Vietnamese people in the hospitality industry. It gives them English lessons as well as meals, vaccinations, and housing while they are in the program. We got to see how rice noodles are made, and then got to make our own rice noodles! I’m hopeful that my video of Brad making his rice noodle will upload so you can see how this is done. Afterwards, we used our rice noodle patties to create a snack with a dry rice patty, as well as our fresh one that we are dipped in sauces. The group then prepared us a traditional “my quang” noodle dish soup, which was delicious.

    Following lunch, we went back to the hotel, but Brad and I had to go back to the tailor in order to have our fittings done. I had two fittings in a very short period of time, and Brad had his belt shortened. Once they are done the final changes, they are going to ship our order over to our hotel. I am excited to see my final dress!

    Brad and I headed back to hotel so we could enjoy the outdoor pool and some quiet time before heading back into the old quarter. Tonight we have a dinner reservation at Morning Glory, which we are looking forward to! We are hopeful that we can try some traditional Hoi An dishes, and some more interesting Vietnamese food!
    Les mer

  • Dag 8

    Hoi An (pt 2)

    11. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Once we got back to the hotel, we went for a swim in the open air pool to cool off. We were the only people in the pool, which was lovely!

    We went back to our room, had a beer in the beautiful cool of the A/C before heading out at 6:30 to see the other side of town. We could not believe how many people were out and about! The streets are full of street vendors selling clothes, toys, purses, and all sorts of food on a stick. We stopped in at a bar for a drink to get out of the crowded chaos and then made our way back across the bridge into the old quarter for dinner.

    The menu was so extensive that we had a tough time deciding what to order because everything looked so good! We settled on two Hoi An specialties - the White Rose dumplings and Cao Lau (marinated roast pork slices and fresh green vegetables, over rice noodles). These dishes both have to be made with well water from the Ba Le well in the old quarter. Now, I didn’t see them drawing this water directly, but nonetheless, even the idea is charming.

    Both dishes were absolutely delicious! We wished we had room to eat more dishes, but we settled on sharing two small desserts - banana ice cream (amazing!!) and a crème caramel (a bit of French influence). Once again, we left very satisfied with both the price ($25 for the whole meal) and the food!

    We need to be up early tomorrow to head to My Sun temple, so we are off to bed!
    Les mer

  • Dag 9

    My Sun Temple & Biking in Hoi An

    12. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Brad was very interested in seeing My Son temple ruins from the Cham people. The Cham people begin building these temples in the seventh century and last until the 13th century. However, the ruins are about an hour out of Hoi An. Our guide offered us a package deal, but it was gonna take too much of the morning up so we opted to hire a charter vehicle to take us out there first thing in the morning.

    We were down for breakfast at 7 AM sharp (when the breakfast begins) and then our driver picked us up at 7:30 AM. It took us about an hour to get out to the site, but on the way we got to see a lot of little towns and cities along the way. Our drives are always so interesting because there’s always so much to see. Everyone’s store is out front of their home so there’s always a lot to look at along the way.

    We got to the world heritage site at about 8:30 in the morning which was perfect because although it was very very hot, there weren’t many tourists are yet. An exceptionally nice young woman helped us download the free audio guide, which is a lifesaver for us! We had to take a tram to halfway up and then walk the other half to get to the group B,C,D ruins. These ruins are the most intact ruins to see. Many of the structures were created to worship various Hindu gods such a Shiva, and a great deal of time has been spent restoring a lot of the site. Many of the temples were ruined during the Vietnam War, but it’s still incredible what you can see, especially considering that the last of these buildings was worked on in the 13th century. We were also fortunate to see a traditional Cham dance performance at one of the sites as well.

    After we had looked around extensively, we took the trim back down and took a look at the museum, which featured many pictures about the restoration efforts as well as several informational plaques about the culture of the Cham people. We had to get back to our driver at about 10 AM which is fine for us because we were incredibly hot and sweaty as it was a very, very warm morning and we were in the jungle.

    A ride back to our hotel only took about 45 minutes and bread, and I was so exhausted from the heat of the morning that we decided to cool off in our room and take a nap. Once we’re feeling a bit more refreshed, we walked over to Bahn Mi Queen, which is only about a 500 m walk from our hotel. If you look it up on TripAdvisor, it has great reviews and the line is testament to that. We chose to get the bánh mì that has a little bit of everything on it and take it back to our hotel so we could eat in the air conditioning. It certainly did not disappoint and those TripAdvisor reviews are well deserved!

    At 2:30 we had to meet our group for a bicycle tour of the countryside. This was an optional activity, but our entire group decided to go so that was a lot of fun! Our first stop was in town at a local man’s house, who makes his living, making tofu. He showed us the process of how he grinds down the soy beans, crate, soy milk, but also the tofu to create tofu pudding, which his wife then sells in the afternoons. It takes about 3 to 4 hours to grind enough soybeans for the day. We have to try some of his tofu pudding with a ginger and sugar cane sauce. It was served warm and it was very delicious!

    Back on our bikes, we continued riding into the countryside further, so we could go to see the vegetable farms. Hopefully you can see it in the photos but they were growing some very big zucchini, and they grow them from a lattice work structure so the zucchinis hang down instead of growing them on the ground. Here we were treated to some tea that had ginger and Thai basil seeds in it, as well as some of our group got to try the watering methods they use for these farms.

    We had to ride about half an hour to our final stop of the day, but the rides absolutely exquisite. We had to ride through Rice field and see people working the sky in the mountains and the entire scenery was truly magical. Who knew a bike ride could be so wonderful? We finally arrived at the basket boat place and we were treated to some food which included watermelon, traditional style pancakes wrapped in rice paper, and some toasted coconut. We then hopped in the basket boats and our drivers took us around. For the people who wanted to, they would really rock your boat back-and-forth (kind of like a carnival ride) and then made us all rings out of leaves from the coconut trees. It was a really neat experience!

    We then had to ride our bikes to the pier so we could put them on a boat. The boat took us back to the old quarter so we could unload and finally ride our bikes back to our hotel.

    We are all currently getting freshened up and change so we can go for last group dinner in Hoi An this evening and then tomorrow we are off to Ho Chi Minh City!
    Les mer

  • Dag 10

    Arriving in Ho Chi Minh (Saigon)

    13. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    We were up bright and early this morning so that we could leave for Da Nang, which is where the airport is located, by 7:40.

    We got checked in and then had to wait about an hour before boarding our flight to Ho Chi Minh (HCM). Brad and I lucked out and were seated in the exit row, so we had a lot of room to stretch out and enjoy our 90 minute flight. After all our very long flights, this one seemed like nothing!

    We arrived in HCM at 11:15, but had to take a bus from the tarmac to the terminal, which took about 20 minutes. We could already feel the hustle and bustle of being in a city of 10 million people! After getting our bags, we walked quite a ways to get to our bus. The ride to our hotel took about half an hour through the lunch rush hour traffic. There are far more people driving cars here than anywhere we’ve been, which may speak to the wealth here as Vietnamese pay 100% (or more) import tax on vehicles.

    I will also be curious to see the fashion here as matching outfits for couples, parents and children, and siblings has been quite popular elsewhere (especially in Hoi An). I’m still trying to convince Brad to jump on this trend with me, but no luck so far!

    After a quick refresh, we went for lunch at Pho 2000 where Bill Clinton ate when he was president. We all had variations of pho, which was very good! We then went on a small walking tour with Tong before he dropped us all off at the War Remnants Museum. I was looking forward to seeing this museum and learning more about the Vietnam War, but I was not prepared for what was to come. In North America, I feel that history museums present a sanitized version of events. Here, the history of the war was told through personal narratives, shocking and disturbing photos, and a message of “Americans committed war crimes and genocide.” In many ways, the information about mass slaughter and unending bombings was hard to read, but also incredibly important to understand the impact. There was one room that contained dozens of photos of those impacted and disfigured by Agent Orange and it was so completely upsetting that I suggested that Brad not view it. I think many of the images will stay with me for a lifetime.

    The museum was a heavy visit, but we were so glad to have gone to it.

    After a few deep breaths, we decided to walk over to the Reunification Palace, the church fashioned after Notre Dame (which is under construction), and the post office, which is a relic from colonial times although still fully operational! We were pretty hot after all the walking, so we went over to the Heart of Darkness brewery and had a few beers and great literary references! If you’ve seen Apocalypse Now (set in Vietnam!), it is based on Joseph Conrad’s novel, Heart of Darkness.

    By about 6pm, it has begun to rain, although the rain was light and warm. As a note about temperature, Tong said it was much hotter two months ago and that today was considered a “cold” day in HCM. It was 35c.

    Anyway, we walked back to our hotel and got ready to go for dinner with Tong and about half our group. Some of our group members have not been feeling well, so they did not join us.

    Tong took us to a great little Vietnamese place where I had soft shell crab with tamarind sauce and a “pumpkin” flower salad (it had tiny zucchini’s and zucchini blossoms as a salad - SO good!) and Brad had catfish in a spicy sauce, which was also excellent!

    We stopped at East West Brewing for a night cap and then it was off to bed as we are off to the Cu Chi tunnels tomorrow morning!
    Les mer

  • Dag 11

    Cu Chi Tunnels

    14. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It was another early morning as we had to be on the bus by 8 am to drive to the Cu Chi tunnels. Brad managed to have pho for breakfast again as one of his goals is to eat noodles for breakfast every day!

    The drive took about 90 minutes to reach the site of the network of tunnels the Viet Cong used during the war.

    At the site, our first stop was lowering ourselves into one of the tunnel openings. As I sat on the edge, it didn’t seem possible to shimmy into the hole, but as long as you kept your arms straight up, you could manage. Once the cover was on the hole, it was incredibly dark and damp. I didn’t stay down too long before popping back up!

    We also got to see many of the booby traps that the Viet Cong set up for the Americans. They were meant to maim and inflict a lot of pain-they looked almost like medieval torture devices. We observed reconstructions of cooking, medical, and artillery making facilities they would have constructed. Near the end, we had the chance to crawl through a tunnel network. The tunnel was incredibly small (despite being enlarged for tourists) and dark. I could only bear to do 20m of it before I took the exit out. My heart was absolutely beating out of my chest because it was mildly terrifying to be down there!

    You could also go to a firing range and shoot a variety of guns. We didn’t do this, but the constant sound of gunfire was pretty unnerving!

    Before leaving, we were given tea and tapioca to try. Soldiers would have eaten a lot of tapioca to survive. It was tasteless and starchy, but apparently it can be quite satiating. We also saw wild cats playing with millipedes!

    Our bus ride back took about an hour and then we were on our own for lunch. Brad and I opted for a nearby, highly rated pizza place where they make their own cheese and source local ingredients. We ate octopus romesco pizza and crab pasta, both of which were excellent!

    With full bellies, we braved the market. The market is full of people selling anything and everything, and the expectation is that you barter prices. Brad and I hate bartering, so we steeled ourselves for the experience. In the end, we got a “designer” purse for Evan’s girlfriend and a new North Face backpack. The sellers can be quite pushy, but again, it was an experience!

    We did a bit more shopping before heading back to the hotel to cool down. At 5:30, the group met up to go to a sky bar. It was Helen’s 59th birthday, so we went up to the 25th floor to see the spectacular view and enjoy the buy 2 get 1 free drinks! We also had cake on the rooftop.

    The weather was beginning to turn, so we headed downstairs only to find that it had begun to pour! This happened last night as well, so Brad and I were prepared with our umbrellas. Our guide had to run and buy rain ponchos for the rest of our group members, but then we were off to the restaurant. The food was nothing to write home about, but we had a nice time celebrating Helen’s birthday.

    After dinner, Tong took us to this street full of bars and nightclubs. Despite the downpour, young men in the street kept trying to convince us to come into their establishment. We found a quieter lounge to have a drink and play some pool. Brad and I called it a night after one drink and walked back to the hotel. Our feet were pretty wet, but otherwise, we were unscathed!
    Les mer

  • Dag 12

    Mekong Delta and Michelin Stars

    15. juli 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Another early morning as we had to drive out to the Mekong Delta (pronounced may-kong). It took about an hour to get there and then we were ushered onto a water taxi. The delta hosts many islands and we were about to embark on the first one, Unicorn Island. On Unicorn Island, we got to try a variety of fruit that grows there, such as pineapple, jackfruit, mango and two fruits I’ve never seen nor heard of (one was like a lychee/grape hybrid and the other was similar to jackfruit). We were also treated to a traditional musical performance which featured a one string guitar and a two string violin. The musicians were so impressive!

    After eating out fruit sampler and drinking tea (we are served small glasses of tea almost everywhere we visit), we were led to a local honey producer. The bees here look more like wasps as they are very small. Lucky for us, they were “friendly bees” as the locals kept telling us, as they hung out with us while we tried honey tea and royal jelly (made from honey, a noted “cure all” paste).

    Next on our tour was a local chocolate producer. This was particularly neat because the cacao pods were growing right outside the shop! We really wanted to bring some chocolate home, but we were pretty sure it would become a melted mess in no time!

    We were whisked away to another island to take a small boat tour down the delta. This was the absolute highlight of the day as the water coconut fronds created a beautiful canopy and it was so peaceful as we made our way down the water channel.

    We arrived at a small dock and disembarked only to be taken on a tuk tuk tour of the whole island. The “road” that we drove on would barely be considered a sidewalk at home and it was quite a winding path! After that harrowing ride, we went to a coconut candy making facility. We got to try many varieties of the candy as well as sample rice wine, banana wine, and snake wine. To be clear, we draw the line at snake wine. Yikes.

    Lastly, we stopped at a local restaurant for lunch. Brad had howling fish, which is apparently catfish, and I tried the local specialty of lemongrass chicken. They also offered us a whole fried drumfish, but considering we could see fish in the pond around us, it seemed a bit unappealing.

    We got back on our water taxi and were treated to fresh coconut water and some karaoke. They love karaoke here! Anyway, we got back to our bus and made our way back to the very busy city.

    After cooling down at the hotel, we decided to try our luck and see if we could get a walk-in spot at the only Michelin starred restaurant in HCM. The restaurant was located on the oldest wet market street in town. The front was camouflaged by stands selling all sorts of fresh seafood, cigarettes, and other wares.

    Luck was on our side and they sat us upstairs at Anan with the caveat that we needed to be done by 7:30. We started with a fermented rice Prosecco cocktail and a jasmine IPA. Then, we had shrimp and pork spring rolls followed by a banana flower salad (unreal!). Next, we had a crab fried rice and garlic butter shrimp (complete with the tiniest shell on shrimp and regular sized shrimp). Our final dish was a “pumpkin” flower salad, which was full of tiny zucchinis and zucchini blossoms. Everything was delicious and we enjoyed the French/Vietnamese cuisine!

    We had a quick pint at Pasteur Brewing and then wrapped up our night at East West Brewing by having the “king flight.” We had a great last night in HCM and Vietnam and we will be sad to leave tomorrow.
    Les mer

  • Dag 13

    Crossing into Cambodia

    16. juli 2023, Kambodsja ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Subtitle: Lessons in Corruption

    Brad enjoyed one last bowl of pho for breakfast this morning before we boarded the bus. We had a two hour drive to the Vietnam- Cambodia border crossing.

    Tong warned us that the Vietnamese border guards often request a little cash on the side in order to get through the border faster. We had to unload about 500m before the border and walked to the terminal. When we arrived, Tong said the border was very busy and told us all just to slip $2 USD into our passports, which we did. The guards got us through quite quickly (go figure!) and stamped our visas to show we had left the country.

    Next, we had to walk to the Cambodian border. We couldn’t take photos and I’m not sure I can describe it well enough. The walk to Cambodia was like walking through a mass construction site and truck stop, all while being in a dust storm. It wasn’t scary, but it was a bit unnerving.

    We had to apply for visas on arrival, so Tong collected our paperwork and fee and took care of it for us (thank goodness!). We were also required to have our photos taken and fingerprints scanned. Finally, we gained entry and I think we all breathed a sigh of relief that we made it! I would definitely not recommend doing this on your own. Our guide was worth his weight in gold today! I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned it behind, but Tong is from Cambodia and he’s so excited up show us his home country!

    Cambodia is shockingly different than Vietnam. If Vietnam is 20 years behind a developed country, Cambodia is about 30 years behind. The road is dotted with shacks and shanties that people live in and have their businesses in. Cows roam the ditches and streets, and the main “highway” is a single lane road where vehicles jockey for position and constantly have near misses with one another. Rules? What rules?!

    Back on the bus, we drove for another hour before stopping at a “truck stop” for lunch. This stop made your meal from scratch and the food was actually quite good! Shortly after we had gotten back on the bus, we were stopped by a political rally as there is a Cambodian election later this month. The vibe here is so different than Vietnam. It all feels a bit more charged and unstable, but we will see how that changes when we arrive in Phnom Pehn.

    Our bus made its way into the capital city around 3:30 pm and we drove to our hotel. We had a city cyclo tour booked, so we hurried to refresh ourselves and get back downstairs. We each got our own cyclo coach and driver, and they cycled us en masse around the city centre. Our first stop was a huge temple where monks live and the five famous statues that Ms Pehn found on the river. She would later bring the four buddhas and one Vishnu statue to the city and henceforth the city was named Phnom (mountain) Pehn (after her).

    Next was a visit to the huge statue of the former king. He was originally installed by the French as a puppet king, but he later expelled the French from Cambodia, so he is seen as being heroic. His wife is still alive and she looks remarkably like Queen Elizabeth II!

    Our last stop on the cyclo tour was the presidential palace. It is quite the site to see at night! We will maybe go for a tour of it tomorrow. It is quite clear that the gap between the rich and the poor is vast here. You can see some people driving luxury cars and others who are barely surviving. Cambodia is known for its corruption, and I think you can see it in the disparity.

    A quick note about the cyclos- this form of transportation is a bit archaic and is dying out. As such, our presence on the busy downtown roads was seen as a nuisance. We got honked at a few times, but it was a pretty neat experience and a nice slow ride to see the city!

    After saying goodbye to our drivers, we walked to dinner. Brad and I had two Khmer specialties: amok fish (a green curry with fish) and long bak bo (beef with a green peppercorn sauce). Both were excellent! We are a bit sad to be out of noodle country (it’s mostly rice here) but excited for the local cuisine! new cuisine!
    Les mer