Simon and Sam fly to France, Spain and Italy in July 2018 to soak up the northern summer. Read more
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  • Day 5

    Seeing the Sites by Barcelona City Bus

    July 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    The Hop-on Hop-off bus in Barcelona is a great way to see the main sites (and sights) and avoid crazy amounts of walking. Yesterday I walked over 20km and 30,000 steps (so my phone and watch tell me, and my feet agree) so we decided to buy a bus pass today. There are two major loops of the city (east and west) and they take about an hour each, if one doesn't alight from the bus at any point.

    Sam and I began with the intention of doing the whole western loop without getting off the bus, but that only lasted until we got to the view from Mountjuic and the possibility of going up the mountain by cable car to the Castle Mountjuic that overlooks the city.

    The cablecar ride was fantastic, with incredible views of Barcelona from the glass box hanging precariously off a wire about 80m above the ground. The views were exceeded only by those from the castle at the top of the mountain. This castle dates from medieval times, but was used more recently by the Spanish rulers against their own people, both the fire cannons on the rebels in the city in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to imprison and torture enemies of the state in the 20th century. The Catalan people see themselves as distinct from the Spanish, and Barcelona is the capital of the Catalan region. Spain has been racked by more tragedy from civil war over the last few centuries than any invasion or external war. Even this year the Catalonians tried to become an independent country from Spain. They used to be independent until their rights and territory was taken by Spain in the early 20th century. The Spanish Civil War went from 1936-1939. After that, the dictator Franco ruled the country with an iron fist. It has been a sad country and they have suffered most from the hands of their own countrymen. They are still reluctant to talk about it.

    Mountjuic is a prominent hill and was occupied by the army and ruling classes to control the ordinary people of Barcelona. It is ironic that the mountain got its name from the fact that the Jews had to bury their dead on the hill because they weren't allowed to utilise Christian graveyards back in the 1300s. The name "Mountjuic" comes from "Mountain of the Jews". Ironic given the Jews were all expelled in 1492, and the elite Catalans and Spanish occupied the hill. It is such a famous hill that all the infrastructure for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games was built in Mountjuic.

    There has been an amazing tombstone and inscription found in archaeological digs in relatively recent years. It dates from 1306 and records that Rachel the daughter of Rabbi Abraham was buried there.

    Sam and I had a fantastic time exploring the castle that still stands today. It was used as a prison and place to execute opponents of the Spanish political regime right through the 20th century, but now is an amazing public museum and highlight for tourists visiting this amazing city.
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  • Day 5

    Bus Tour continues - to Sagrada Familia

    July 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    We thought we had seen some amazing sights at Castle Mountjuic, but nothing prepared us for our afternoon and evening exploration of the most amazing thing to see in Barcelona - the Sagrada Familia. This is a cathedral that commenced construction in 1883 and is not due to be completed until 2026, the 100th year anniversary of the death of its mastermind architect, one of Spain's most famous geniuses, Antoni Gaudi.

    This church remains unfinished because the scale of it is such that is is impossible to imagine without seeing it. Our eyes nearly popped out of our heads when we saw the outside of the building, but we had just managed to ensure they were still in place when our eyesight was again challenged by what we experienced on entering the gigantic edifice.

    It is already on UNESCO's list of Heritage sites, without being finished. Can you imagine a church building taking over 100 years to build? When Gaudi (known now to the Spaniards as "God's Architect") was asked why he designed something that would take so long to build, he replied that his client was in no hurry.

    Gaudi designed something so ornate and incredibly detailed and fine that there was only one facade and another small part of the church built in his lifetime. He died in 1926. The buildng continues to this day (with a few interruptions for a civil war and a couple of world wars) and they hope to complete it for Gaudi's 100 year anniversary.

    It is impossible to describe this building. The inspiration comes from nature. So there are no straight lines anywhere. The columns are reminiscent of trees, and the stained glass windows inside go from bright red through orange, blue and green to represent the seasons. But there is too much to say about this building. A few photos are included here, but those who are keen to see it complete can make an appointment to visit in 2026.

    Sacrada Familia means "Holy Family" in Spanish. I am not a huge fan of Catholic churches for obvious reasons, but this one is another level. It puts St Peter's in Rome into the shade.
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  • Day 5

    More things to see in Barca

    July 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    The architecture in Barcelona is very different to other European cities I have seen. The classical western architectural forms have been turned on their head here, or extended beyond what is usual. It is certainly different from Paris which is very traditional and consistent. This sets Barcelona apart from other cities. Famous architects like Gaudi led the way in this amazing creative flair. Picasso and Salvador Dali were also born here and created styles uniquely their own. This seems to be a pattern for creative genius which is so characteristic of this city.Read more

  • Day 5

    Unusual and Special

    July 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Sam was struggling to work out how the doors to these shops worked - nearly a metre above the ground. We are not sure that they would pass safety standards in Australia. But then we thought they might be designed to receive deliveries. But still, weird on a public street.

    We also visited the Nou Camp today by bus. The stadium for the Barcelona Football Club. The club has 170,000 members. Lionel Messi is their current star player, along with many others of high quality.

    We also saw the famous Barcelona Bull Fighting Ring, which was in use until 1987 and then was closed. It is now a shopping centre but has maintained the charactistic facade.
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  • Day 6

    Park Guell

    July 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today we boarded the dounle-decker Red Bus again to travel in the open air to our first destination. This is an amazing park designed by none other that Antonio Gaudi, the prodigious Spanish Architect who basically created his own style. The whole park was designed by him and everything about it carries his unique creative flair. It is quite inimitable. The park is well worth a visit and provides amazing views over Barcelona from its elevated location.

    From Park Guell we looked up to the highest mountain and saw our next destination - the highest point in the whole of Barcelona - Mt Tibidabo. That's where we are off to next.
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  • Day 6

    Mt Tibadabo

    July 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Sam and I took the long route to our second and major destination for the day - we walked for about an hour in the heat of the summer sun. It provided a real insight into the outer suburbs of Barcelona, but the going was hard as it was hilly terrain. The hills are clearly the domain of the rich in Barcelona because some of the houses could only be described as mansions.

    We arrived at the foot of Mt Tibadabo and caught the Funicular up the mountain. This is a tram that travels up the very steep hill, similar to the Scenic Railway in the Blue Mountains, except it goes even longer.

    The effort to get to the top of this mountain was well worth it. The views over Barcelona were amazing. It is difficult to think of a city that has a better vantage point from which ti view the entire city.

    There is an amusement park on top of the mountain which has utlized the height to maximum effect by building ferris wheels, and other scary rides which a placed in a precarious point on the edge of the mountain. Sam and I could not resist going on the Ferris Wheel, which is quite a scary ride given that the mountain drops away beneath the ride.

    We then went to climb the to the church which is perched even higher on the hill. In the first level of the church we discovered a lift that was able to take us to the top level of the church. From there we could climb even higher, right up inside the highest steeple. The view from here was so spectacular it was beyond all expectations. We had 180 degree views. Not only could we see the whole of Barcelona stretched out before us in one direction, the eastern half of the view, but looking west we could see all the way to Mt Montserrat where the famous Monastery is located and all the settlements on the other side of the hills which form a natural boundary of the city. We could also look northwards and see the Pyrenees which form the natural divide between Spain and France.

    The view was spectacular. It took our breath away. I cannot remember having such a high vantage point in any other city. Those visiting Barcelona should not miss this amazing perspective of Barcelona. We stayed up there for an hour - a fitting way to end our visit to this unique Spanish city, the capital of Catalunya.
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  • Day 6

    Food in Barcelona

    July 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Barcelona is known for its amazing food. The array is extraordinary. There is the best of Spanish food, as well as a range of other influences, such as French (being not far from the border) and Italian, Greek and even north African. The Tapas scene is huge and impossible to effectively explore in a few days. We tended to eat convenience food rather than sit in restaurants, but it is evident that the range of Tapas is extensive and delicious. I was able to sample this on a few occasions but would need a few weeks to really do it justice.

    We visited the famous La Boqueria markets just of La Ramblas (the mall). This market is world famous. It is high-quality food for culinary gourmets. It is just the best culinary experience ever. I bought a couple of little paper cups of cheese and dried meats cut from the bone. These are sold as tasters for a couple of euros each. There are the best fruits and vegetables, meat, poutry and fish, cheese and tapas, coffee and fresh juice, goumet chocolates, dried fruits and nuts, spices, etc. And there are places to order the food and they will prepare it and you can eat it right there. Wow. Worth coming to Barcelona just for this place.

    But the food is exceptional. It is said that the food in Barcelona is the best in Spain. I cannot compare it with anything else in Spain yet, but I can say that it is amazing.
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  • Day 7

    Drive from Barcelona to San Sebastian

    July 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    We hired a car to drive across the north of Spain for the next five days. Three of those will be in San Sebastian and surrounding areas, and the other two will be in Santiago de Compostela.

    The drive from Barcelona to San Sebastian takes about five hours. It is across a range of different territory, from dry flat plains, lush agricultural land, to green forests closer to the northern coast.

    We took a diversion early in the trip to visit the famous monastery in Montserrat. It is located high on the mountains about an hour from Barcelona. The original monastery was founded about 1000AD, but it has been added to and restored ever since. The basilica here houses the famous Black Madonna, which is an icon to which many pilgrimages are made for religious purposes.

    The real attraction of the place is the extraordinary location, perched as it is on the side of a rocky mountain with amazing views all the way to the outskirts of Barcelona. It is a peaceful and awe-inspiring place, no doubt the reason for the monastery being built there in the first place. There are still 70 monks living there, as there has been for centuries, although they were outnumbered by the tourists by 50 to 1 easily when we were there. We could have spent more time there, but the drive was still largely ahead of us so we left after about an hour or so.

    The rest of the drive was only interrupted by a stop for a late lunch. The route took us through Pamplona, where the running of the bulls festival (San Fermino) starts tomorrow.

    We arrived in San Sebastian, located in Basque territory, about 7pm to be greeted by our kind Airbnb host, Gloria, who is a young Spanish girl who owns a very nice apartment in the centre of town, right near the magnificent beach. The beach here in San Sebastian is known to be one of Europe's best and very well patronised by French and British tourists in the summertime.

    Gloria has given us a list of Pixtos (a Basque word for Tapas) to try and which restaurants to find the best ones. They look delicious and we look forward to trying them all.

    The drive through northern Spain took us through some high country, just alongside the Pyrennees mountain range. It was challenging to get used to the left hand drive. On one occasion I instinctively took off into the left lane rather than the right lane and gave some innocent Spanish driver a near-death experience. But generally it was fine. Sam kept his head down most of the time. The speed limit was 120 on most of the freeways and the traffic was travelling at about 130. The roads were fantastic, although they were many toll roads and I had to pay a toll on at least five occasions, which added up to about 30 euros.
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  • Day 8

    San Sebastian

    July 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Sam and I set off to explore the beautiful coastal city of San Sebastian. It sits on the Bay of Biscay in the Atlantic Ocean. It faces north and the aspect of the city is magnificent. The beaches in this city are said to be among the best in Europe and, from what I have seen here and elsewhere, I don't doubt it. The beaches have beautiful sand and they are horseshoe-shaped with boats and ships dotting the waterways. There is a shipping harbour and a river that goes out into the sea.

    There is a fort on each headland of the horseshoe shape, and two hills which can be climbed for a splendid view of the city. The views are quite breathtaking. Sam and I spent a few hours exploring and climbing the headland. The fort has areas called batteries, and one of them is called the Battery of Napolean because he took the city of placed his army in the fort. About a decade later the Spanish reclaimed the city in another battle and the French surrendered in that very fort. There is a sign that marks the spot. It is incredible to be walking in the very place where such major historical events took place.

    There is a museum in the fort, and the chapel is in the centre of the fort right on top of the hill.

    This city has about 400,000 inhabitants and it reminds me of Newcastle in terms of size and scale.
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