Simon and Sam fly to France, Spain and Italy in July 2018 to soak up the northern summer. Read more
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  • Day 8

    Donostia

    July 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We are in Basque territory. I had heard of this area before but did not realise what it really meant. The Basque people were displaced when the border between France and Spain was drawn up after the war. The Basque people were just forgotten about. They had lived in their own country in this region for centuries. They have their own language, culture and history. They insist they are not Spanish or Catalonian (another group in Spain wanting their autonomy, centred in Barcelona). The Basque people are proud of their heritage and they live in a semi-autonomous area which bridges France and Spain. San Sebastian is the name General Franco, the Spanish dictator, gave this city, but the Basque people call it Donostia.

    The Basque people have their own version of Tapas. They call it Pintxos (pronounced Pinchos). They are proud of this amazing way of presenting food and the chefs in the Pintxos bars are very competitive. The idea is that customers move from bar to bar, having one or two pintxos from each location. It means that people move up to 12 times to have dinner. The streets of the old city are packed with this crowd every afternoon and night, all seeking the best pintxos. It is amazing to see this take place. It's like the whole city is having a progressive dinner.

    The pintxos are only a couple of euros each, and the variety is extensive. It is difficult to capture the atmosphere in photos but here are a few in an attempt to do so. This finger-food is a fantastic way to provide food for a large number of people. They take the idea to the extreme and the taste combinations are very adventurous - too adventurous for Sam. He couldn't bring himself to try any. He thought the octopus legs and fish eyes were lurking in every pintxos. Sam lacks courage when it comes to trying new foods.
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  • Day 8

    Atmosphere and Culture

    July 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The atmosphere and history of European cities reached out and grabs you and drags you into its spell. It is captivating to learn about the culture and history of each new people, the Basques being a new people and culture to me. They are respectful and do not behave drunkenly or disorderly. They obviously respect their culture and what it means to their families. All the families seem to work together in their communal projects, including the restaurants and shops.

    The culture here does not revolve around massive shopping centres like it does in Australia. The individual shops are all side by side and provide a specialty and they don't try to do everything.

    The historical buildings are all architecturally attractive and they are preserved carefully. There are a couple of modern buildings that have been architecturally bold, like the concert hall and the museum, but they blend with the old rather than create any dissonance.

    The city is a place where one could spend weeks just getting to know and relaxing into its beauty and charm. Its are pity we only have a couple of days.

    I sat for an hour this afternoon and listened to the best busking violinist I have ever heard. I spoke to her when she concluded her time and she told me in a strong accent that she was Russian and here on two weeks holiday. She was clearly a professional and she confirmed that when I spoke to her. She plays in Russia and teaches older students. Her English was poor but when she played it was like we were in a recital in the Opera House. It was a blessed hour in the town square. Many people were stopping, captivated by the surprising quality from someone merely busking. Hundreds of people walking past felt compelled to dig into their wallets to put money into her violin case. How could you not?
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  • Day 9

    We venture back into France

    July 6, 2018 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today we went for a drive east from San Sebastian into France. The border is only 20km from San Sebastian. It is still Basque country but technically in France. They were all excited about the world cup game being held today against Uruguay (which France ended up winning 2-0).

    We travelled along the coast to a town called Biarritz (Bee a ritz). It is a magnificent coastal town which was the playground of the rich and the destination of royalty during the 20th century. The beach and the promenade are magnificent. There was a walkway constructed around the rocky point and some amazing walking bridges out to promontories in the water. It is a very picturesque town and well worth a visit. There is a huge casino built right next to the beach which probably had a role in attracting rich tourists to the town over the years.
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  • Day 9

    Driving through north-west Spain

    July 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We drove about a third of the way across the top of Spain this afternoon and evening. We were looking at spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay on our right as we drove. The countryside of very green and hilly. It is not flat and dry as we typically think of Spain; not at all. Even though it is summer, the country is green and lush in this northern region. There is agriculture aplenty and lush crops everywhere.

    The roads are excellent. Freeway all the way, although there are quite a few tolls, so we need cash or card at the ready at all times. Unfortunately there was a truck that had burst into flames on the freeway and it causedi a 2-3 hour delay. Not what we were hoping for. So we arrived at our destination at about 9pm instead of 6pm.

    We are staying tonight in a five-star hotel called Casa del Marques in a very old Spanish village, Santillana del Mar. The whole town is from the 14th century. They have kept cars out of the town for the most part. The whole town is Heritage listed. It is the Spain you imagine in your ideal view of this country. Stone buildings and terracotta tiles. Arched doorways, churches with bell towers and cobbled streets and squares. It is an incredibly magical place. I went for a couple of hours wandering as the light dwindled and look forward to more fully exploring the town tomorrow.

    Our destination tomorrow is Santiago de Compostela, on the northwest corner of Spain, but we will make the most of the morning to explore this town before heading off on our journey westwards.

    I sat with a man in the lounge tonight before venturing out. He was about 60 and watching the world cup. He told me he was from Israel. He was born in Israel. His parents escaped from Poland just before the war. He was born in Israel. All his grandparents were killed in the war. He spoke a lot about his life in Israel. His aunty married an Australian soldier who was posted to Israel during the British mandate and married him and lived in Adelaide. His parents disowned her and never spoke to her again for betraying their Israeli life which they had gained at great cost. His wife came later and she used to be a teacher. They have one son in New York in the real estate game, and another son in Israel who is into IT. They lost their daughter at 17 to Lupus about 25 years ago and it is still raw for them. The man was a bit vague about what he did for a job but he was in Spain organising ships on the coast for Israel. He is a typical Jew with a big deep voice and very sharp and incisive. I would love to have spoken to him and his wife, Itti, for longer. I gathered that he grew up through the kibbutz movement. He has a friend from South Africa who went to Melbourne and is now a Principal of a Jewish school there - his surname is Reuben. I said I would look out for him in case our paths crossed in the future. Who knows, with school principals. It's a small world.
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  • Day 10

    Santillana del Mar

    July 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We walked around the old town of Santillana del Mar this morning. It is characteristic of old Spain. The buildings are all 500 years old and it is like going back in time to the Medieval period. We expected a band of medieval knights to canter around the cobbled street corner at any moment.

    We found a museum dedicated to the Spanish Inquisition and the methods of torture used were not only explained in vivid detail, but the actual implements were on display. It is staggering to see the cruelty that was instigated by the church against accused heretics. If we lived then we would be on the receiving end quite likely.

    The old church bells rang forth each hour and the roosters were crowing and the horses were saddled. It was a real taste of old Spain. If you are in northern Spain, do now miss this delightful village.
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  • Day 10

    More from Santilla del Mar

    July 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    More photos of this quaint medieval village.

  • Day 10

    Driving across north-western Spain

    July 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We left Santilla del Mar at about 11.30am and took about five hours to drive to Santiago de Compostela where we are staying in an Airbnb for two nights. The drive was very pleasant. They really know how to build freeways here. There has been no expense spared. There are about 30 tunnels and even more amazing viaducts built across valleys. The speed limit is 120kmh and cars are going 140. The road is smooth and without all the divots so common on our freeways.

    The countryside is green, the northern beaches look beautiful from the road and the mountains rise steeply on the left as we drove westwards. Several times we crossed the mountain range and the views were spectacular.

    We arrived in Santiago de Compostela at 4.45pm and settled into our room and then went for a wander around the old part of town. We had dinner, then an ice cream and then returned to our room to rest for the night. Another full but enjoyable day. Tomorrow I will spend my birthday in the picturesque town.
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  • Day 11

    Cathedral for Pilgrimage

    July 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    I am sitting in front of one of the most amazing buildings from the medieval period. The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela was one of the three spiritual centres for Christian Pilgrims in Middle Ages. The remains of the apostle James were said to have been discovered on this site in about 800 AD and the first church built on this site about that time. That was destroyed by the invading Moors but after they were expelled from this area in about 1000 AD the present church began to be built. So this Cathedral pre-dates Notre-Dame in Paris.

    Today the Way of St James is still a very popular pilgrimage which thousands of pilgrims undertake each year. It straits in eastern Spain and ends here in this square and then they enter the church to visit the tomb of James the Apostle.

    The architecture of the building and those around it is Gothic and dates from the Middle Ages. The exterior facade of the Cathedral was renovated in the Middle Ages to give it the appearance it still has today. The interior remains much as it was and therefore is older than the exterior.

    An incredible building and the whole gothic area of this town is amazing.
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  • Day 11

    Birthday in northwest Spain

    July 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Sam and I had a less strenuous day today. It was my birthday after all. We shared a memorial meeting in our Airbnb which was very special. We listened to an exhortation from the UK on the lost sheep, lost coin and lost sons. We read Luke 15. The lesson of being lost and found again can apply to everyone in different ways at different periods of our lives.

    After that we ventured out to see the sights in this Medieval town.
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  • Day 11

    Jewish Quarter

    July 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    There is evidence of a Jewish ghetto here in Santiago de Compostela. Until 1492 there was a Jewish community living here. I found the Jerusalem Street where they lived. There is an Olive Tree planted in the small square in the centre of the ghetto.
    There is some research that shows that the church on the edge of the ghetto is built on the site of an old synagogue.
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