Split, Croatia

Never blindly trust Google Maps. We love you, but sometimes you are very wrong. Case in point, in Hvar we wanted to go from the ferry terminal to our hotel. We trusted the online map and proceeded to climb 1,000 steps up to a church, only to then descend 1,000 steps back down the other side. All the while Everett was literally hopping on one foot, given his injury.

Host: Why are you coming from that direction? Us: We are coming from the ferry. Host (looking confused): The ferry is in that direction (points in the opposite direction that is FLAT). Us: Damn you, Google!

Hvar Town… according to the Internet (and confirmed by locals) is a July-Aug debauchery summer resort town… but we arrived in the off-season. The quaint town was gorgeous but slow and empty (again, Google kept directing us to “open” restaurants but they were boarded up for the season). On our last day, we spent an afternoon at the local library doing school as we had four hours to kill before our ferry arrived. The turbulent winds arrived and we frantically paced the ferry dock fearful that our catamaran would be canceled. (The back-up option would have taken 6+ hours of backtracking multiple ferries, whereas our direct route was only 40 mins). Ken went into the ferry office for an update so often that he annoyed the desk clerk. Eventually, we did take off and the blustery winds frantically carried us across the straight to Vis Island.

Vis was more beautiful than Hvar, but even slower if that’s possible. Everything was closed except: one pizzeria, two bars (filled with indoor smokers), and one under-stocked grocery store (except, on Sunday, when even the grocery was closed for Croatian Voting Day).

Highlight: The view from our place could not be beat (Best AirBnB at only 80 euros). We have seen many oceans but the water of the Adriatic Sea here was the bluest we had ever seen. So even though we named the place “Ghost Island,” we 100% want to return in the summer when it comes alive.

We boarded the ferry to Split and sailed along huge gray rock mountains. Take that back, NOT a ferry: A colossal ocean liner / cruise ship that carried 1000+ passengers and 300 vehicles (to us, A Carnival Cruise). A few hours later we arrived at the seaport of Split, the second largest city in Croatia. We high-fived each other: “Yes, people are here!” Findings: top notch European food, vegan lattes, charming shops, Roman ruins, a lot of cigarette smoking, and a wonderfully walkable maze of streets in the town center.

The Roman ruins (e.g., huge palace from the 3rd century) gave us ample opportunity to explore the ancient architecture as we strolled through the city (note: “Roman Empire” added to this week’s 4th grade history lesson). It was so picturesque; a film crew was actively filming on the street corner outside our apartment. Inspired to get back in running shape, in the mornings Ken ran through the Marjan Forest (an uphill 10K with switchbacks – accompanied by weird looks from locals, who apparently run the route in the opposite - downhill - direction…Google, fool me once shame on you…). The people of Split were pretty relaxed and English was widely spoken so language hasn’t been much of an obstacle. We definitely enjoyed the mix of Balkan and Western cultures and now understand why this beauty attracts so many visitors!

Opinion: if you’re visiting Croatia in the off-season, visit Split (10 out of 10) not the islands (very empty)… If you’re visiting during the high tourist season, we might avoid Split (likely over-crowded) and visit Hvar/Vis (peaceful beauty).Read more