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Globe Trotting Trio

October 2023 - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Ken Read more
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  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 3–10

    Capetown South africa

    October 10, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Forty-eight hours before our flight to Israel, our plans completely changed. With war breaking out we reluctantly canceled our trip, not yet knowing how the conditions on the ground might unfold. Still in LA visiting family, we booked a last-minute flight to Cape Town, South Africa. We had vaguely planned to traverse Africa from north to south (Cairo to Cape Town), so without much thinking we switched to the reverse direction (south to north).

    After a 14-hour red eye from Atlanta we landed into the modern, cosmopolitan city. Opting for the quickest accommodations we booked an Airbnb in the Sea Point neighborhood and were pleasantly surprised. Cape Town is perhaps the most breath-takingly beautiful city we have ever visited (tied for first place with Rio de Janeiro, but we can’t seem to decide?).

    Side Note: During our previous travels (Gili Air Blog) we met a dear friend, Carryn. We have stayed in touch all these years. We forgot that she worked for years in SA tourism. Well, lucky for us!

    Carryn has treated us like a VIP client: showing us the sights and sounds, which have yet to disappoint – an ocean-front promenade, Nando’s (our longtime favorite fast food chicken), sea glass filled beach at Hout’s Bay, exceptional and cheap food (and wine!), an ostrich farm, a penguin colony, the rocky and very windy headlands of Cape of Good Hope, lots of Uber rides, a cave of gemstones, a sort-of-illegal join up with a 10K, a hike up Table Mountain, white sand Camps Bay, and an evening of singing by Ndoluvu Youth Choir (a trip highlight thus far – of America’s Got Talent fame).

    Oh, and Everett is home-schooling so he’s taking online classes but also learning by experiencing and interacting with the world around him. Latest discussions: the metric system, time zones, apartheid, and the history of Israel… not bad for week 1.

    The everyday vibe is comfortable and a bit like a laid back European feel, so it’s been a low-stress transition. The city is affordable, well developed, safe, and bustling with things to do. We just haven’t gotten enough yet, so we are extending our stay for a second week.

    Check out Ndoluvu Choir!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpLdMeHhrYQ

     Random Quotes & Notes:
    Everett: “I still can’t believe we’re in Africa!”
    Hillary: has been unconsciously speaking with a local accent and doesn’t realize she’s doing it
    Ken: “I love the Dollar to Rand conversion rate. Shouldn’t be we suffering more? I could definitely live here (Is Omar right???).”    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 11–15

    Cape Town, South Africa (week2)

    October 18, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Our second week in Cape Town we started to feel a bit more like locals. Ken joined the gym for a week and the coffee barista even asked if we wanted “the usual” – success!

    We took two trips to the world-famous Table Mountain: first the boys hiked up (wind delay on the gondola) and the second trip we rode the rotating gondola vertically up 2,500 ft. It’s a very unique and prominent landmark overlooking the city that we highly recommend.

    Our apartment was located on a popular promenade that rents bicycles, so on two occasions we rented bikes and rode to Camps Bay (about 5k). The boys ran back to Sea Point (uphill in the heat!).
    Everett was missing kids so we visited an indoor trampoline park. We thought, it will be great to have him meet some South African kids and maybe even make some friends that live in SA. We head to the park and guess who is the first kid he meets? Rainier, as in Mount Rainier. He is from Seattle. Can you believe it, the very first group of kids he met on the trip thus far… and his Dad even grew up few blocks away from us in Queen Anne…Crazy! We figured we would never see them again though. Three days later we lined up at the Robben Island tour (where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned) and who was in front of us in line? The same family! Needless to say, the kids were all happy and it made for a more enjoyable day. The actual tour included a ferry to/from the island, bus tour, and most importantly, a tour of Mandela’s cell by a former prisoner. Getting a first-hand tour from an immediate eyewitness made us realize just how recently apartheid existed.

    At the end of the week Carryn took us to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, where we learned about the Cape Floral Kingdom and their unique Fynbos shrubland. After we stopped for ice cream and wine at Groot Constantia winery. That night, Ken and Carryn watched the South Africa vs England rugby world cup semi-finals – the city was on fire after a last-minute comeback. Ken knew nothing about rugby but he’s now on the bandwagon.

    Cape Town had endless, amazing food choices but we spent most our time at Mojo’s Market, Kauai and Bootleggers. We did try a few local dishes – cape malay cuisine, salmon rose sushi, and Sparletta cream soda (its green!).

    We loved you Cape Town, but it’s time to move on and venture up the coast!    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 16–23

    Plettenberg Bay, South Africa

    October 23, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    One week later and we are about 400 miles east of Cape Town on the “Garden Route,” a scenic drive through forests and ocean front towns. We stopped for a night in the whale-watching town of Hermanus. We did see a few whales’ blowholes off in the distance and enjoyed a great meal in the sunny seaside downtown. Meandering up the mountainside through ostrich farms, we ended up on a dirt road shepherding sheep with our car (look of fear from Ken: where are you taking me?). Oudtsthoorn had three highlights: eating ostrich steaks (Nostalgie restaurant), petting lemurs at a conservation park (Cango Wildlife Ranch), and hiking through a magnificent 20 MILLION year old cave system (Cango Caves).

    The last few days we’ve been in the high-end beachside resort town of Plettenberg Bay (picture Africa’s Malibu – huge cliff side mansions and very “Carryn-approved” restaurants). We’re in off-season and we found a stellar two bed condo for $50/night with great beach access. Everett has been buried alive so many times – the amount of sand in his hair and clothes is next level.

    We hiked the Robberg Reserve, a rocky peninsula, which was much tougher than advertised (look of anguish from Hillary: that was NOT mild!). The hillsides were covered in the most amazing succulents (reminder: spring here) and the seals entertained us from the coast. Playing on the beach, Everett practiced and successfully did his first backflip so he re-named it: Backflip Beach.

    Online school has been a bit of a slog (surprise we are not great 4th grade teachers), but luckily Ken found some engaging online teachers on Outschool.com, so we are hopeful it will keep our family from imploding.

    A few oddities so far:

    We stayed at a country lodge and the doorway to our room was so low (5’10”) Ken repeatedly hit his head. By the time we left the owners put up a sign above our door that read “Mind Your Head.”

    Every gas station has attendants and we are not allowed to pump our own gas. They even squeegee the windshield and check oil and tire pressure. After driving back down the mountain our car was particularly dirty, the attendant washed our ENTIRE car with his squeegee.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 23–30

    Bulungula, South Africa

    October 30, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I fall asleep smiling. It’s too cliché so I’m pained to say, we are in a round hut made with mud and cow dung after a terrifying, white-knuckle, three-hour drive on a dirt road. But let me back up.

    We departed Plett and had our first encounter with an impassible dirt road (more of these to come we would discover). The river crossing the road was two feet deep and there was no way our poor Nissan sedan could cross. It was a long day of driving and we felt defeated as we backtracked.

    Our luck shifted as we arrived at Addo Elephant National Park, a self-drive safari. Elephants came so close to our car, if we were brave enough, we could have reached out an arm to touch them. Instead, we held our breath, making no sudden moves as the family passed around our rental car. I’ll let the pictures do the talking on this one. We completed the night at a private game reserve drinking wine and beer around the evening fireside boma (cue: Chris Smutny look of surprise that Ken would be drinking beer). For Ken it was a trip highlight – “now we’re really traveling.”

    We drove up a 10km dirt road to a Xhosa village in the hills above Hogsback. We were surprised to realize that for no apparent reason we became obsessed with this place. It’s the cheap South African wine, the mountain view (which we barely made it up), the lack of WIFI, the fresh bread, the firewood carried on our heads, and the chaos of local boys speaking Xhosa of which we understood nothing. Even speaking different languages Everett and the boys bonded over dancing, soccer, and taking funny videos on his phone. Leaving the village, Ken drove us off the road into the ditch. We had to push the car among the profanities. His aggressive Los Angeles driving techniques make him well suited for the cities, but Hillary will be doing the off-roading in the future (The cliff!! The cliff!!). Everett bouncing around in the backseat like a rag doll named the rental car “Simba.”

    Beware of Ditch. Depth is deeper than it appears...

    Back into the city of Mthatha we headed straight for the hot showers at our hotel. Ken found us a fancy restaurant (Carryn-approved) and a huge mall with our favorite store “Game,” which is basically a Wal-Mart but with nostalgic significance.

    For three hours and 80km we followed a hand-written map to our next Xhosa village. Directions: drive through a small stream, at the blue school turn right at the fork in the road, then left, left, right, left. At the peach houses and yellow fence post take a right on the new-ish road (sidenote: it is NOT new-ish). Drive down the steepest road you have ever seen and pray. Arrive at the parking lot as thunder rolls and lightning begins to strike. Walk 500m uphill through the woods and you will find the ocean-front village just as the rain begins to fall.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 35–42

    Drakensberg, South Africa

    November 11, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    If you ever feel the need to escape to the secluded picturesque seaside, we recommend the Xhosa village in Bulungula. We mostly relaxed and took part in some easy activities – kayaking, playing on the private beach (more sand burials), and taking drumming lessons. On the evening before our departure a rainstorm arrived and turned our already-questionable road into a muddy disaster. We only got seriously stuck once – a steep embankment of pure mud that thankfully Ken managed to maneuver our poor vehicle through. The look of relief on our faces when we made it to the paved road was pure joy. That was until later in the day, when the rainstorm turned into thick fog and we encountered endless giant potholes and herds of sheep randomly crossing without warning. We realized a paved road could be just as brutal to the nerves.

    We stayed a few nights in Underberg at the southern end of the Drakensberg Mountains, drank so many cappuccinos (“the best in The Berg”), and made our way partially up the Sani Pass (near Lesotho border – unfortunately, we didn’t have a 4x4 or our passports). Shout out to our other son, Makalo.

    We are continually surprised how good the food is here – even an average bakery/diner makes a fantastic meal. Everett has found a new love of steak dinners. Of course, that’s balanced with our long drives where we “rip” a piece of bread and enjoy whatever “dip” we happen to have (Nutella, peanut butter, honey). Everett: “What’s for lunch?” Us: “Rip and dip”. Cue groan and eye roll from the backseat.

    For the last few evenings, we’ve been staying at a farm B&B at the base of the stunning escarpment of the central Drakensberg Mountains -- one of the most spectacular sights we’ve seen in South Africa. We hiked up a steep trail “the Sphinx” and Ken also made it to a hidden grotto.

    You might be wondering why we’re still in South Africa? Let’s just say we’re on the slow travel vibe. We’re trying to make genuine connections with local people, cultures, food, and well… South Africa is marketed as “the world in one country” and we are starting to understand why.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 42–49

    Johannesburg, South Africa

    November 18, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Our final week in South Africa. Another few days were spent in the northern Drakensberg Mountains – the Royal Natal National Park. This time, we stayed even farther into the mountains spending 3 nights in the park near it’s famous landmark “Amphitheatre.” Gorgeous – maybe a mix of Yosemite + Switzerland? We hiked up a trail called “The Gorge” to Tugela Falls. Ken ventured even farther, encountering an out of commission “ladder” but he decided it worked well enough to venture on. Then he hit a problematic “crevasse” and continued his solo mission to crystal clear waters and views. We had a lot of rain and fog, but we enjoyed all that we encountered – well, except the tick that bit Ken when we were an hour from civilization and he had to go on a “doxycycline mission.”

    After multiple days of solitude and nature we were off to Johannesburg, the most populous city in the country. We spent an awesome afternoon at Gold Reef City, a rollercoaster-trampoline-gold mining theme park. In search of new sandals (thanks Mom!) we inadvertently found ourselves at the fanciest of fancy malls – never have we seen so many Ferraris, Range Rovers, and BMWs!

    We are very sad to leave this exceptional country. Honestly, we all agree we could easily stay for another month, a year, forever. The food, the prices, the English, the sincerely friendly locals at every encounter, the landscapes, ok the list is endless. (We are secretly planning an escape – “if it gets too tough, let’s just go back to Cape Town.”).

    We are enjoying the lounge at the airport (OR Tambo), heading to our gate now… Zimbabwe!

    P.S. Due to popular demand: Everett’s opinion (Thanks for the nudge CK). Apparently, this blog is too optimistic and I’m not telling you all the bad stuff. Like arguing, online school sucks, he misses his friends, the WIFI sucks, and he doesn’t like all these nature hikes... But he likes there are so many black people, he is eating so many steak dinners, he gets to play Roblox, and he agrees he loves South Africa    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 50–57

    Lusaka, Zambia - The One Where We Went O

    November 26, 2023 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    The flight to Zimbabwe was short (<1.5 hrs), the weather a scorching 103 degrees when we arrived (40 for our Celsius friends). We stayed a brief two days near the famed Victoria Falls, the world’s largest waterfall. And even though we saw it during dry season (its lowest water level), it inspired an awe that few things in this world could. The falls were spectacular – a giant gorge with a sheet of water falling for 1.7 km (1.1 miles for our American audience *wink*). The weather was unbearable, even for the locals, so no one walked on the street – it felt eerily silent after the bustle of Johannesburg. The small town was a classic tourist trap with lots of touts trying to sell us stuff; we decided to cross to the Zambian side of the falls.

    At this particular land border crossing we had to walk across a bridge connecting Zimbabwe to Zambia – which doesn’t seem like a big deal (just walk across a bridge?), but it was 103 and we spent two hours carrying our full backpacks between border crossing posts. We stood in long, hot, crowded queues of people eager to cross the border, just hoping we wouldn’t pass out. Our clothes were completely drenched with sweat and we had signs of heat stroke.

    We ended up at the best backpacker lodge (packed with international kayakers) and spent the afternoon in the hotel pool trying to recover from the bridge crossing, staying cool drinking way too many Fantas and beers. Ken met up with a crew of professional kayakers who informed us that the Zambezi River was a world’s Top 5 river rafting site. He couldn’t refuse the adventure – the boat flipped twice, a fellow rafter tried drowning him whilst trying to stayafloat, he saved a different fellow rafter from drowning, and the hike out the gorge (1,000 vertical feet straight up) nearly broke him, but he loved every minute!

    We moved to a second hotel in Livingstone because the backpacker lodge was full (and honestly, we wanted AC). Ken and Everett ventured on a clandestine mission (I’m sworn to secrecy here) to visit Devil’s Pool, a swimming hole at the top of the waterfall. I thought it a death trap to get a pic for the blog; they assured me, yes, it was, but they would still go. It was the highlight of the trip thus far – can you imagine a local guide (at the TOP of the WORLD’S LARGEST WATERFALL) telling you to jump into the water, far enough to get over the rocks but not too far to be swept over the ledge… and then he held you by your ankles and told you to lean over the edge?!?!? Nothing could compare to that adrenaline high!

    We said goodbye to the mighty Zambezi and boarded a 10-hour bus ride to Lusaka, the capital city. We feared the worst (we’ve been on many an African bus), but it was shockingly comfortable – AC, comfy seats and an on-time departure – basically a luxury Greyhound. Our arrival at the bus station in Lusaka, on the other hand, was a classic chaotic and overwhelming scene - a mob of touts trying to grab at our luggage, yelling to get us a taxi, and stalking us through the confusing labyrinth of wooden vendor stalls.

    We got out as quickly as possible and landed at a lovely AirBnB apartment near the University of Zambia. We downloaded Zambia’s version of Uber and made our way to a nearby mall. Sidenote: the stores were promoting Black Friday deals, but there was no Thanksgiving… so… American-influenced-worldwide-consumerism at its finest? No sooner had we made it back to our AirBnB then a storm blew through (a humid-Hawaiian-tropical-downpour) and now we are sitting in the dark with no power plotting next week’s adventures.

    Zambia, you are totally underrated and proving to be an unforeseen treasure!    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 52

    Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

    November 28, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Ken spent two days sick with a mysterious illness (Malaria? Cholera? Lyme’s disease? Or the dreaded Traveler’s Diarrhea?). We are carrying a mini-pharmacy (thanks Tanya for reviewing our medical kit selections!) so he recovered fairly quickly. While he was under the weather, Everett and I had the opportunity to meet up with his Uncle Sam from Uganda, who just happened to be working in Lusaka, Zambia. Sometimes the world conspires to make an unexpected chance meeting arise.

    Barely recovered from Ken’s affliction, we boarded a 5-hour bus ride north to a train station – the Tazara Railway connection that would take us to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania over three days. A true gem and local experience, we will remember forever.

    Highlights:
    1. Two German ladies (the only other non-Africans) were our companions: laughing at the absurdities, sweating in the 95-degree non-AC train carriage, and conversing about life on the road (shout out: several of the pictures on this post are from Nina).
    2. Everyone speaking Zambian to Everett. In frustration, he secretly escapes back to his room, returning wearing his Ugandan jersey. Proudly announcing to the dining car occupants, “Now they will know where I’m from.”
    3. Squatting toilets, err, holes in the floor of the train: where you poop into a hole and it sprays onto the train tracks below you at 40 miles per hour. They lock the toilets at every stop so you can only use the toilets while the train is in motion.
    4. Catching up on school. Deep into long division, fractions, African geography, spelling words, and Big Nate on Kindle.
    5. Tanzanian immigration. Queuing in the dark with an immigration official at an unmarked desk, checking documents with his cell phone.
    6. Arriving a mere 18 hours late after our scheduled arrival, for a total of 62 hours.
    7. Negotiating for mangos: 6 for $0.40.
    8. The sweltering heat on Day 3. Day 1-2 was a pleasant, breezy 85. However, Day 3 was 100+ degrees in our room, when at one point we sat at a station for 3 hours while the locomotive was broken.
    9. Tanzanian landscapes. Seriously epic. Ok, the $100 visa might be worth it.    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 56

    Nairobi, Kenya

    December 2, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Dar es Salaam was a whirlwind of activity. We spent one night recovering from the sauna-train and a chaotic morning trying to reach the ferry to Zanzibar. The touts (guys trying to sell us stuff) were in full effect as we arrived at the ferry – literally banging on our taxi windows, grabbing at us and our luggage, and following us once we exited the taxi. Luckily, Ken purchased our ferry tickets online so we beelined straight for the office where we would get our printed tickets. The ferry itself was enjoyable: on time, air conditioned, and comfy seats for a quick 2-hour ride to the island of Zanzibar.

    Our hotel was on the northern beach in a tourist town called Nungwi with a quick 5 min walk to one of the most beautiful white-sand beaches. The boys took a half day boat tour to a snorkel spot (below average), dolphin sighting (too many tourist boats to really enjoy), and a random sandbar in the middle of the ocean (surprisingly fun!).

    A highlight was meeting with our German friends again (from the train). We met at a local fish market and then enjoyed the evening with cocktails on the beach. We laughed, laughed, laughed:
    · The locals were confused which of us was his wife (he kept changing his answer)
    · We sheltered Vera from the sun like a pale-celebrity-princess chased by paparazzi who mustn’t let the sun rays touch her
    · Compared notes on how to wash laundry in the shower (Nina recommended wearing a bikini, I recommended dissolving the detergent in the garbage can first).

    On the last night we switched from our beach location to a hotel near the airport (for an early morning departure). We surprisingly loved the area where we stayed (old Stonetown) and wished we had more time to explore. The old port area of Zanzibar City had narrow streets that didn’t allow cars but only pedestrians. The architecture was super unique with elaborately carved doors on most of the buildings – apparently to ward off elephants? The streets were filled with bazaar-style vendors, which made for a very vibrant and festive mood to wander the streets.

    Then we flew from Zanzibar to Nairobi, the capital city of Kenya. Nairobi is supposed to be exceptional, but we were only there for one night so I booked a subpar hotel room near the airport. It was NOT a tourist hotel, as affirmed by the questioning stares from literally every person on the street. Even so, we had an eventful afternoon. The lady at the bar (yes, our room was above a bar) happily let Everett do his homeschool work in the bar (it was early afternoon so it was empty). Everett got a fade haircut for $1. And we found a very packed local chicken BBQ restaurant. When we asked for the menu our waitress said, “I’m the menu - I tell you what we have,” and then directed Ken into the grill kitchen and pointed to all the food options. Someone (not sure who) gave us fake money as change (it was bound to happen at some point – it looked real!).

    Drumroll…. Introducing our new featured special guest!
    Some of you know Kelvis, Everett’s cousin from Uganda. He is currently on winter break before his final year of high school, so we invited him to accompany us for a few weeks of travel. We planned for him to fly solo from Uganda to Kenya to meet us (a quick one-hour flight) - after that we would travel together. Unfortunately, as a young, solo, first-time traveler the airline gave him a very difficult time, demanding excessive documentation and money, and nearly wouldn’t let him board the flight. You guys, I pulled my first “Karen” yelling at the Kenya Airways desk agent (via a very bad Whatsapp connection) – like an entitled white woman demanding they better allow him on the plane or else! After a tense few hours he boarded the plane (his first flight, which he described as “fantastic!”)

    It was around 11pm when Ken met Kelvis at the Nairobi airport – but he couldn’t get an Uber after multiple attempts and finally hopped on a boda (motorcycle) but the boda couldn’t go past the entrance gate (5km from the airport) so he started walking in the dark until a friendly couple pulled over and he hitchhiked … and then a taxi tried to charge him $30 for a return to the hotel when it should have been $4.

    Nonetheless, we made it! We are overjoyed – Kelvis is ecstatic to travel and Everett is smiling ear to ear to finally have a buddy. We slept for 4 hours and went BACK to the airport at 3:30am for our flight to…. Mauritius!!    Read more

  • TravelerGlobe Trotting Trio
    Day 63

    Flic-en-Flac, Mauritius

    December 9, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Mauritius was a surprise! It was not on our itinerary, nor did we know anything about this tiny island nation in the Indian Ocean. [Ken on Tik Tok & Google Maps: Where is Mauritius?]. Since we are now traveling with Kelvis (Ugandan passport) we chose the country because it’s an easy flight from East Africa and it is visa-free. (Sidenote: if you want to get us going on a rant, just say the word “visa.”) It was definitely worth the visit! Just east of Madagascar, it is one of the most stable and developed economies in Africa. The land is strikingly similar to Hawaii – beaches, mountainous interior, waterfalls, hiking trails, and palm trees. The main language is French (bonjour!) and most of the people have Indian heritage.

    We spent our time in two seaside tourist villages – Troux-Aux-Biches and Flic-en-Flac. We drove most of the island in our rental car. The roads were crazy for a combination of factors: 1) super narrow roads, which would be fine except 2) there was no shoulder and the pavement ended with steep drop-offs, which again would be fine except 3) there was no parking along the road so cars LITERALLY stopped and parked in the road. The result was narrow two-lane roads turned into one lane, but with traffic going in both directions. Nuts! In their defense, the roads were all well paved and mostly new with no potholes.

    The beaches were top-notch, but our most enjoyable moments were sharing new things with Kelvis. I think we had just as much fun as he did, experience all his “firsts:”
    · Flying in an airplane
    · Seeing the ocean, swimming in the ocean, and dunking his head underwater (oops, we forgot to tell him to close his eyes!)
    · Taking a bath in a bathtub
    · Using a washing machine and dishwasher
    · Having air conditioning in his room
    · Going to McDonalds (he loved it!)
    · Trying all kinds of new foods - fried noodles, fried rice, sushi, coconut soup, Thai papaya salad, Belgian waffles, pickles (he did NOT like!)
    · Going to horse racing (at the oldest racetrack in the southern hemisphere, there since 1812… who knew?)
    · Going on a hike – we spent a gorgeous day on two separate hikes at Black River Gorges National Park
    · And now… we are at the airport, heading to India!    Read more

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