Krakow, Poland

We had no idea what Poland had to offer. Ken wanted to visit Auschwitz and we believed Poland would be an affordable European destination. That combined with our limited knowledge about Ken’s family history, we really didn’t know what to expect. In our naïve minds we pictured Post WW2 + 1986 communism, which couldn’t have been farther from the truth of the cultural richness and bustling city that we found.

Our Polish journey began as we arrived on a train after a six-hour ride from Austria (via Chechia). We assumed Poland used the euro, but quickly discovered the contrary at the train station. Oops, time to grab some zloty. (Note to self re: homeschool curriculum. Brush up on the differences between: Europe, the EU, the euro, and Schengen).

We hopped on the convenient city train (love European transit!) to our AirBnB in the former Jewish district. The neighborhood was super trendy (vintage shops, expensive coffee, high end restaurants), with a mix of crumbling graffitied buildings and new renovations on every block. Flocks of tourist groups wandered throughout the neighborhood at all hours, visiting the synagogues near our place (either walking tours or via golf carts).

Krakow turned out to be a totally underrated and unique, modern city – and a wonderful introduction to Poland. It was such a charming place with endless activities, green space, and nearly all adults spoke English (less so for the kids).

The international food options were unlimited so we had to eat Hillary’s new favorite cuisine (Georgian food). There were several outdoor food-truck courtyards and the weather was perfect. Ken went out late (8pm!) to try the infamous street vendor sausages (sadly, overrated). Trendy bars and restaurants were around every corner. The food left a positive impression on us: challah French toast, potato pancakes, sauerkraut pasta, pierogi (dumplings), pistachio donuts, and kielbasa (sausage). The prices were more expensive than we expected ($20 pastrami??), but Everett got hooked on the cheap sausages from the corner market so we did alright.

On our first day we found a delightful park – and Ken met a local while playing basketball. We had a few beautiful sunny days exploring the Old Town. The Jewish history walking tour was a highlight for us. Our guide was intelligent and genuine – it was her first day giving the tour so she was a little nervous. She did a wonderful job explaining a very complex history as we walked amongst the Jewish historical sites.

Ken tried three times, unsuccessfully, to visit Schindler’s factory (either closed or huge lines). But, he did make it to a museum dedicated to a Polish pharmacist who was the only non-Jew allowed in the Jewish Ghetto during the Nazi occupation. We also saw the former site (now a plaza) where seventy chairs represented the discarded furniture of the Jews who were inhumanely displaced.

Auschwitz is not recommended for kids under 14, so unfortunately, Ken had to visit solo. He rode the train there and joined a three-hour English-guided tour. It was a traumatic day for him, and well, it’s hard to explain unless one has visited a concentration camp before. Too many emotions to process. Too much horror. Ken, the ever-extrovert, did not say a word all day. He came home in a daze and slept from 7:30pm to 7:30am the next day.

On a lighter note, an afternoon was spent at the Polish Aviation Museum. Now we can tell you WAY too much about the MIG-21. When your child is an aviation enthusiast, an afternoon of Soviet aircraft is a huge win.

Needing to get some energy out, Everett spent time at an indoor trampoline park. Unfortunately, in his excitement he threw his body so hard, he hit a metal pole and we had to depart early with a rib injury. He was very disappointed (but not to worry, he recovered less than 24 hours later).

From monuments, history, food, to the terrors of Auschwitz, it overwhelmed our senses and we really fell in love with the city. Pictures can hardly do justice to the beauty of Krakow. We will return.Baca selengkapnya