• The World is Out There
  • The World is Out There

Camino De Santiago

Léon to Santiago via the Frances Way Leer más
  • A dose of Camino magic

    24 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Having reached Astorga by about 12:30, I was too early to check in, so I found a cafe in the square and ordered a pizza and an IPA (I got a Porter). A father and son sat next table over. Pastor Mark is between flocks (and religions) and is walking the Camino. They are in about their 20th day. After a few minutes more and more young people come and greet them and sit down. They’ve all started together and have floated down the Camino together and are fast friends. Great to experience this special camaraderie. They will continue on tomorrow, while I have a rest day and so will slowly move on further ahead of me.Leer más

  • Roman Ruins

    25 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    The entire mesa that Astorga is perched upon is entirely underlaid with Roman ruins. This was an intersection of several Roman roads. There’s a long and quite wide section of retopped Roman wall along the Eastern side of the downtown and the Palacio Gaudi. It terminates at the original entrance to the Roman city. The Roman museum is right next to my lodging but is closed.Leer más

  • Napoleonic statue

    25 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    I guess there was a big fight here and Napoleon lost! Presumably that’s a Leónese lion on top of a Napoleonic Eagle. Down the street is a civic wall painting.

  • The Palacio Gaudi

    25 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Another Work by architect A. Guadi who was the principal of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. After a side chapel of the Astorga cathedral burned down he was commission by the bishop to create an Episcopal home. Work progressed, but the Bishop passed away and the new bishop wasn’t the same type of manager and waffled. Gaudi was already working on the Familia, so they had to get someone else to finish. No bishop actually lived there and it’s now a museum for The Camino, Roman antiquities, and Gaudi. The original Cruz Ferro is there.Leer más

  • City Hall - The Ayuntamiento

    25 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    The façade of the Ayuntamiento was built in 1675, but the first documentary evidence of the clock appeared in 1730. It is the work of the 18th-century clockmaker Bartolomé Fernandez. On each side of the bell are two articulated figures of Maragatos: Juan Zacunda and Colasa, in their native costumes. On every hour, the figures move and the hammers in their hands strike the hour on the bell. Two decades ago, the original primitive wooden figures, which were in poor condition, were replaced by aluminum copies.Leer más

  • La Cathedral de Santa Maria de Astorga

    25 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Just over whelmed. Where Leon had the windows, this had the history. Amazing artistry, some by students of Michelangelo. There are artifacts from Roman and every era you could ponder. Not to mention seminal examples of Baroque, Rococo, and Romanesque styles. There is a substantial sliver of the true cross and is one of the most treasured relics.Leer más

  • The strangeness of ancient times

    26 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Between the façades of Iglesia San Esteban and Iglesia Santa Marta is the Celda de las Emparedadas, the small square opening between the churches (Cell of the Walled), an irregular space with a window open to the street of the Camino route, is a rare testimony to the medieval custom of urban hermits (in this case, women) being walled up for life in a small cell. The cell could be constructed next to a church or cemetery, in hospitals and monasteries, in bridges or city walls, in the middle of a city or in its suburbs. On many occasions, it had a small window open to a church and another to the street. In the Middle Ages, more women than men chose this voluntary confinement, which presented almost a luxury compared to life in a cloister. The confinement began with a farewell to the world, a liturgical ceremony with the Office of the Dead, and entry into the cell whose door was then walled up. (Brierley describes this as a “cell which housed the city hookers,” and www.artehistoria.com says [translated]: “This cell was used to lock up those women of bad morals.” However, most other sources say the women were locked there by their own choice and remained there until death, devoted to prayer and penitence.)
    In the case of this cell in Astorga, outside contact was reduced to a narrow, barred window overlooking the street. Pilgrims passing through Astorga, on their way to the Cathedral, established a relationship with them and gave them food through that window. The Latin inscription above the window says: “MEMOR ESTO JUDITII MEI, SIC ENIM ERIT ET TUUM. MIHI HERI, ET TIBI HODIE EX ECCLESIASTES,” [which translates: Remember my condition because this will be yours. I yesterday, you today. From Ecclesiastes]. Another window connecting to the chapel of Iglesia Santa Marta (to the sanctuary, when the old church that existed before the 18th century was reversed from today), allowed the women to observe the sacred offices and mass.

    The Plaza Ingeniero Eduardo de Castro is in front of the Palacio Episcopal. In the Plaza Ingeniero Eduardo de Castro is a modern, green colored sculpture commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Junta Profomento Semana Santa Astorga (1908-2008). It’s shocking for an American to see a statue with hooded figures. Turns out the Ku Klux Klan appropriated the use of hoods and gowns, apparently having completely misunderstood what was going on. The hoods are used by members of fraternal religious organizations generally called Cofradías. These groups, closely monitored by religious orders like the Franciscans and Dominicans, wear the pointed hoods which was a practice of the penitent flagellants. Flagellants were people who in order to atone for sin, would wear open backed shirts and scourge themselves with various whips and other mortification devices. They wore the hoods because they did not want to draw attention away for the religious penitence that they were practicing. So the hoods indicated a person seeking forgiveness for sins. Later teachers (possibly in religious schools) used pointy hats to indicated a child who needed to change their ways. So you might correctly conclude the The Klan in America are dunces.
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  • Murias

    26 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Nice place but I decided to hike on, grade increased from here and the heat and the dust. Terrain and flora very similar to Los Padres NF. First thing noticed, there are a lot more people. I’m going to submit to IUPAC an application for a new unit. I will call the Peregrimeter. Abbreviation ‘Pgm´. It’s defined as the number of people you see 1 kilometer in front of you. As in, coming in to Astorga it was 5 Pgm and coming out of Astorga it was 15 Pgm. Where I could see people and never get passed or pass, there was passing of one sort or another like 40-50 times. One advantage, new friends are easier to make! I am honing my greeting! The classic greeting is Buen Camino! Mine right now is Buen Camino! How ya doing? This enables the greeting, but also signals that I’m an English speaker. Non English speakers look at you in surprise and say “Good and You?” And that enables my classic, “Best Day of My Life!” A few seconds for the translation and a get big grins. English Speakers will then counter with, “Where ya from?” And off we go!…….

    My new trail buddy is Arthur from Santa Barbara. He’s a nurse from Cottage Hospital in Santa Barbara. Good match for stride and pace. We had second breakfast at the Bar Cowboy in Meson in El Ganso and Lunch at Abergue La Senda in Rabanal, where we met Michelle from Ohio and Paul/Pablo Murphy from San Diego…a retired Navy Carrier helo pilot. My place is El Refugio, updated just 2 years ago and really nice..room a little tight, it had a tub for wash and courtyard drying lines. Tonight looking forward to Gregorian chants from the monestery monks,
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  • Cruz Ferro

    27 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    The Cruz Ferro is at the top of the pass. It is an ancient Celtic site, and the ascetic hermit Guacelmo likely placed the Cruz to reclaim the site. The tradition is to carry a rock from home or the Camino and place it at the foot of the cross to symbolically relieve you of a burden. The prayer is

    Lord, may this stone, a symbol of my efforts on the pilgrimage that I lay at the foot of the cross, weigh the balance in favour of my good deeds some day when the deeds of my life are judged. let it be so.’
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  • Manjarín

    27 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    The most uninhabited inhabited town on The Camino. Used to be one guy named Tomas, who thought himself the last of the Knights Templar. Now it’s a man and a woman and a nice travel trailer turned cafe bar for some torta carne and café Americano con azucar for second breakfast. Nice Celtic music.

    An ambulance rolled up and picked up Marcelo from Italy who had taken a bad fall. Two Good Samaritans picked him up and brought him to Manjarín. We got the bleeding stopped but he’s gonna take at least 30 stitches to his forehead if they can get all the dirt from under the flap.
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  • Reigo de Ambrós

    28 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Another day of sharp declines. Some of The Way has been painstakingly cobbled and walled, but much has fallen into disrepair, leaving a tricky track to navigate. The small hamlets here are in a similar state. In some places, you can imagine thousands of carts having carved the ruts in the native slate, or portions where the feet of so many of the faithful have eroded the path four to six feet below grade. I documented a rare switch back about 2 km below Regio.Leer más

  • Molinaseca

    28 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Entering Molinoseca, I see a man plastering the arch of the main entrance of a small church. Hola! Buen Camino! Peregrino! Aqui! Aqui! He motions me over, walks me into the church and opens up the door….runs back to the side room and flips on the light. Me llamo es Antonio. Yo soy El trabador de iglesia. I am the church workman. Donde es? Seattle! Donde? Washington! Ah, Americano! The light comes on and I am in tears. The church doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it sure is special inside!Leer más

  • Ponferradan cuisine

    28 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    So I’ve had breakfast, second breakfast, elevenses, and luncheon…I think I’m going for it!
    Just have to do afternoon tea, dinner and supper! My afternoon tea was a McDonalds Coke Zero after hiking to a mall in 96F to get a replacement back up charger cord. Dinner was an apple. Ah but Supper was special. I ordered a dish called El Rey del Bierzo. Bierzo is the local agricultural and cultural region. For 17.50€ you get the dish El Rey del Bierzo which includes a special local sausage called Botillo del Bierzo, cabbage, garbanzo beans, potato and a piece of local chorizo. You also get a bottle of local red wine, dessert and coffee. The El Bierzo region, made up of 38 municipalities located to the west of the province of Leon (Castile-Leon), Spain. Botillo del Bierzo is a type of smoked sausage which is stuffed into pig’s cap (caecup), a large diameter pouch which is the beginning of the large intestine. The weight of Botillo del Bierzo averages 1 kg (2.2 lb).The required amount of rib meat 65-90%. The required amount of tail meat 10-20%. Trimmings from the following parts may also be incorporated: tongue, jowls, shoulder, backbone meat. Here’s the recipe:

    Calories: 230

    Servings: 10

    Prep time: 72 hours

    Cook time: 2.5 hours

    Nutritional information
    Meats Metric US
    Pork ribs 700 g 1.54 lb
    Bone-in pork tail 100 g 0.22 lb
    Tongue 100 g 0.22 lb
    Meat trimmings 100 g 0.22 lb
    Ingredients per 1000g (1 kg) of meat

    Salt 18 g 3 tsp
    Cure #1 2.5 g 1-1/2 tsp
    Pimentón, sweet 15 g 3 tsp. (Paprika, which comes from here!)
    Pimentón, hot 10 g 2 tsp
    Sugar 5.0 g 1 tsp
    Oregano, rubbed 2.0 g 3 tsp
    Garlic, minced 20 g 6 cloves
    Instructions

    Chop ribs and tails into 2 cm (3/4") pieces. The bones are not removed.
    Chop finely other meats.
    Mix salt, cure and all spices with meats. Place in a food grade bag in refrigerator for 12 hours.
    Stuff firmly into pork bung.
    Smoke with oak wood at 18° C (64° F) for 1 day.
    Dry at 16-12° C (60-54° F) for 2 days.
    Keep refrigerated.
    This is a semi-dry product and must be cooked before serving.
    Notes

    Botillo weighing 1 kg (2.2 lb) is slow-cooked in pot for 2-2.5 hours. Green soups are added to pot 30 minutes before the end of cooking. Botillo del Bierzo is served in the center of a large clay pan with vegetables around.
    Botillo del Bierzo carries PGI, 2001 classification.

    I should also comment about the wine. This was the third time a bottle has been placed in front of me along with a glass and opened. I was kind of nervous….do I get one glass? Two? No one ever said. So I looked it up. In Spain, when wine comes with dinner, it’s a whole bottle. They do not charge by the glass or by portion of bottle (it’s considered rude). So if you want, you could try the whole thing. If there’s leftovers? That’s where Sangria comes from!
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  • The Templar Castle

    29 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    During the period of 1000 to 1200, pilgrims came under increasing attack from bandits. Papal decree instructed orders religious and the Knights Templar to protect and support traveling pilgrims. This castle, one of the best preserved of its kind in the region, helped in pilgrim defense. The Templar Library houses an amazing collection of texts which were intended for the use of the Templars in service. Included is an original copy of the Codice Calixtino the first pilgrim guide to traveling the Camino.Leer más

  • Templario Libri

    29 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Included are parts of the collection of the El Bierzo bibliophile, Antonio Orvalle Garcia. Some Dali, a few Picasso and Da Vinci.

  • The Mystery of Water

    29 de mayo de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Walking through any small town,village, or hamlet you will see these bottles filled with water. Apparently, natives believe it will turn away unwanted pests. I have seen similar things with ziploc baggies of water stapled to the wall of a café to keep flies out in the US Southwest. The belief works like this: a dog, or cat, will pee on the bottle which keeps from eroding the adobe or plaster.
    Most likely it’s more like this:
    Typically the way this works is a homeowner leaves the bottle out front. A cat comes along and rubs its face all over the bottle. A dog smells the cat has been there and pees on the bottle to mark it. A swarm of flies is attracted to the dog pee. And then along comes a pilgrim, “Hey! Free water!”
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