Day 18 León to Hospital de Orbigo

Day 18 - León to Hospital de Orbigo 34 km

I departed this morning at 5.15am as today's trek was 34 km. Walking through the outskirts of Leon in the pitch dark, it was bitter cold and raining. My terrain today - more corn fields and flat paths.

The weather was becoming more unpredictable. It was cold and wet for the first 21 km and partial sunshine for the remaining 13 km.

Unfortunately, I had to walk 21 km before reaching the first village for coffee, breakfast and that long-awaited rest.
The woman in the café graciously offered to dry my four layers of clothing, while I eagerly consumed her delectable classic cuisine consisting of homemade bread and tomato. This dish has several names: Pan Tumaca, Pa Amb Tomaquet, Pa Amb Oli.
To prepare the toast bread and grate a tomato, as previously outlined, peel a clove of garlic, cut it in half, rub it over the toast, and then chop it into small pieces. Add the garlic to the grated tomato and spread on the toast. Season with salt and drizzle over a teaspoon of olive oil. Delicious.

The last stage of the walk was eerily quiet, as most Pilgrims had decided to have their rest day in Leon.

Eventually, I arrived at the fabulous little town of Hospital de Orbigo, with its long, well-preserved bridge and the story of Don Suero de Quinones.

Originally, the Romans built the bridge over the river Orbigo connecting Leon with the provincial capital of Astorga. By the year 1184, a few hospitals had been erected on either side of the river to aid Pilgrims on their journey.
Reading the village plaque, I discovered a few interesting facts. Here, a famous passage of arms took place in 1434. In the same year, medieval knight Don Suero de Quinones hit the headlines when he was scorned by a woman he loved. In response, he organised a jousting tournament, challenging all men of an equal rank to fight for their free passage across the bridge. If he defeated them, he would keep his honour. The tournament lasted nearly a month with Don Suero claiming he broke over 300 lances, defeated all his challengers and defended his honour and the bridge. He then travelled to Santiago to give thanks for the honour of defending the bridge, but was killed by Gutierre de Quijada.

Every year in early June, the villagers revisit history by holding a jousting tournament, dressed in armour, monks' outfits, peasants' attire and velvet-clad maidens.Read more