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LEAVE IT ON THE CAMINO
  • Camino Francés TerryH
Sep – Oct 2023

LEAVE IT ON THE CAMINO

Camino Francés
Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 3, 2023
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    Pilgrims Walk - Camino Francés

    September 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Pilgrims Walk. The Camino

    The Northern Way and Primitive Way were the first pilgrimages to Compostela. The arduous French Way began in the 11th century when King Sancho III the Great of Navarre and King Alfonso VI of León decided to use the pre-existing Roman road connecting Astorga to Bordeaux.
    After their recent takeover of these areas, altered paths reinforced the boundary between the Christian and Muslim territories.
    The Codex Calixtinus, written by Aymeric Picaud in the 12th century, is an academic manuscript that provides an account of the Way of Saint James. Its contents include an extensive description of the pilgrimage route, sections, holy refuges, and hostels.

    The Northern Way and Primitive Way were the first routes for pilgrims heading to Compostela. The demanding French Way began in the 11th century when King Sancho III the Great of Navarre and King Alfonso VI of León decided to use the existing Roman route from Astorga to Bordeaux. After their recent acquisition of these areas, altered paths reinforced the division between the Christian and Muslim territories. The Codex Calixtinus, written by Aymeric Picaud in the 12th century, is an academic manuscript offering an in-depth account of the Way of Saint James. Its contents feature a detailed description of the pilgrimage route, sections, holy shelters, and lodgings.    Read more

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    Madrid to Pamplona

    September 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Madrid is in lockdown, not from COVID but from the weather. Everyone advised to stay indoors.
    Amazingly, they allowed the train to depart to Pamplona. Very stormy conditions.

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    Day 1 Pamplona to Puente La Reina

    September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Day 1 Pamplona to Puente La Reina. 23 km
    The storm had triggered mudslides and shifted piles of rocks and boulders. The path I walked on was very treacherous, yet I reached my goal safely.

    The medieval history of Pamplona is clear throughout its downtown area.
    The powerful conflicts involving La Navarrera, San Cernin, and the Población de San Nicolás resulted in their union in 1423 when Charles III granted the Privilege of the Union.
    Santa María Cathedral was built in the Neoclassical style with many outstanding Spanish Gothic artifacts. The central nave features important artistic pieces, including the alabaster tomb of Charles III and, next to the altar, Leonor I de Castilla.
    The famous Pamplona Bull Run, an exciting yearly event, attracts a large crowd to the city. Traditional songs sung loudly before the race create tension, competition, and amplify excitement among the audience.    Read more

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    Day 2 Puente de Reine to Estella

    September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Day 2 Puente la Reina to Estella 28.5 km.

    Departed at 6 am.

    Following an exceedingly tough hike today, I am drained.

    Puente la Reina is an ancient village rich in history.
    Numerous people sense ancient travellers accompanying them as they stroll along its cobbled streets.
    In the 12th century, Alfonso I El Batallador established this village.
    Numerous splendid residences, landmarks, and cathedrals are closely linked to the Camino de Santiago.
    The principal road directs to the splendid Puente de la Reina (Queen's Bridge).    Read more

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    Day 3 Estella to Torres de Rios

    September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Day 3 Estella to Torres de Rios 31 km

    This morning in Estella, it was cold and foggy. I started my journey at 6 a.m. Right away, I faced a steep ascent across challenging ground.

    Upon reaching the summit, I realised it had been worth it—the scenery was breathtaking. As I descended, I was welcomed by stunning countryside, vineyards, quaint villages, and a woman in the middle of nowhere, playing an accordion!

    The village of Los Arcos served me tapas along with a coffee.
    Energised, I began the final segment of today’s trip. Another difficult, extended trek had my feet hurting, and I noticed a blister forming on my left foot. Not very favourable, since the Pilgrim Path appears to be tougher tomorrow!

    The significant town of Estella is positioned at the base of Montejurra Mountain and is washed by the Ega River. Initially named Lizarra (ash), it was changed to Estella in the 11th century when the pilgrimage path was altered.
    In 1090, Sancho Ramirez chose to build a castle and safeguard the city by encircling it with walls.
    To promote growth in Estella, he established a tax exemption for those who contributed meaningfully to thriving business initiatives.    Read more

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    Day 4 Torres de Rios to Navarette

    September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Day 4 Torres De Rios to Navarrete 27 km

    I had planned to attend the communal dinner at the 'Hostel' yesterday evening. After being told "to arrive in the dining hall by exactly 19:00" (which brought back memories of my school dining hall schedule), I hurriedly washed my clothes, took a shower, and got dressed. Annie got me laundry sheets for my journey, and they are fantastic. I put my clothing items in a plastic bag along with half of a paper-thin laundry sheet and pour in some water. While taking a shower, I step on the bag repeatedly, then wash the items, and the cleaning is complete.

    I departed from Torres De Rios, La Plata de Oca, at 6 a.m.
    After 6 km, I unexpectedly stumbled upon a quaint breakfast shack. It was delightful to be there, contemplating the last few days.
    Even though I had some kilometers logged, it was crucial to continue in order to achieve 33 km.
    The following section is aptly called 'The Knee Wrecker'—ascending and descending steep inclines, mostly going up!

    After 21 km, I reached the town of Logroño and enjoyed a refreshing drink and tapas. I arrived in Navarrete at 17:00, after walking for more than 10 hours.
    I was exhausted and my legs were starting to ache. Luckily, my feet had remained intact.    Read more

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    Day 5 Navarette to Ciruena via Nájera

    September 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Day 5 Navarette to Ciruena via Nájera 33 km

    Last night, an earthquake occurred—minor yet remarkable. Its magnitude was 1.4. This is a frequent event in the region.

    Up and out this morning at 6:.30.
    The initial 4 km consisted of ascending steep hills. It flattened out for about 10 km, but trekking on the stony paths took a toll on my feet!

    Tonight's lodging was located on the edges of Alesanco, in a 'garage.'
    Dinner is part of the package: the Pilgrim Menu—cooked pasta (without sauce, vegetables, or meat), followed by the main course, 2 pieces of chicken.

    Sustaining a nutritious and well-rounded diet is crucial for effectively achieving your daily goals.
    The Camino de Santiago might easily serve as a culinary pathway, savouring delightful local dishes. Every person must decide: enjoying a gastronomic adventure on the Camino de Santiago or experiencing an unforgettable spiritual journey.
    I honour the journey and circumstances of the early pilgrims who thrived on food from donations. I chose the second option.    Read more

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    Day 6 Ciruena to Belorado

    September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Day 6 Ciruena to Belorado 24 km

    The hike today was mostly flat for the initial 5 km. I saw a sign for Rioja Alta Golf Club—I felt quite tempted…but not today.
    With my walking sticks, I established a consistent pace and covered several kilometres in a few hours.
    I paused in Santo Domingo de la Calzada for a coffee. While taking a break, I gazed up and witnessed the breathtaking sight of the blue sky, occasionally broken by clouds. The striking steeple of the cathedral dominated the landscape. It was awe-inspiring.
    Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a municipality in La Rioja, situated on the banks of the Oja River The title is associated with its creator, Dominic de la Calzada, who constructed a bridge, a hospital, and a hostel for pilgrims.    Read more

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    Day 7 Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

    September 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 7 Belorado to San Juan de Ortega 29.9km

    The small villages on the route today are sparsely occupied, each with less than 100 inhabitants. With the exception of a small food ‘window’, there are no other amenities.

    After a great night's sleep, I awoke ready to go, excited for the day ahead. The route looked long, but interesting.
    Not only was it difficult terrain today, but the temperatures were in the high 20’s / low 30’s with high humidity between 10.00 and 15.00. Total sunblock and lots of water.

    Due to high demand, many walkers had been unable to book accommodation for tonight, including myself. The question is - Do you avoid booking too far in advance, as you are unsure how much you can walk per day, or do you stick to a rigid plan?

    I set off at 05.15 am. It was dark, cool and fresh. As it was pre-sunrise I used my headlamp to guide my way.

    The first part was a climb going from 750m to 1100m.
    It was extremely heavy going on my legs and feet but eventually I reached the top. Then there was a long, forest stretch of 12 km with no option for food or water.
    I was glad I had packed some in my rucksack.

    On the Camino, when you see new faces you automatically look at their shoes. They tell the story. Dirty shoes say they have been walking far but our paths have just crossed and if they are clean they are new pilgrims just joining the Camino.

    It was wonderful to experience the kindness, support and encouragement offered to everyone - real Pilgrim traits.

    I arrived in Villafranca Montes de Oca and navigated my way to a cafe for brunch and a coffee. The town is small and the winding roads are very narrow. This keeps it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

    Having finished my food I commenced on what was a real tough climb. The heat was stifling and there was nowhere to steal some shade.

    I repeatedly told myself to ‘Focus on the task in hand’.

    Eventually I reached the top and began my descent, hoping for an easier path - which I didn’t receive. Rocky, unsteady, sandy…….

    The next town was my destination for the night. San Juan de Ortega, more like a hamlet, consisting of a monastery, a church and a small cafe.
    So much history in this town, but no time to explore at the moment as I have to find shelter for tonight.

    There is a saying - “Your own miracle will happen on the Camino”.
    Many tell of their ‘miracle’ - healed minds, refreshed thoughts, spiritual awakenings, gaining emotional strength for new beginnings……..

    My miracle happened today. The monks had opened the monastery for those pilgrims who were unable to secure accommodation.    Read more

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    Day 8 San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

    September 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Day 8 San Juan de Ortega to Burgos 29.9km

    The stay in the monastery was memorable and will remain in my thoughts forever.

    I set off at 06.00 am, having had a comfortable and peaceful night’s sleep.

    I periodically listen to music Annie downloaded for my journey. Today’s choice was The Proclaimers - tracks from Sunshine On Leith.
    The song ‘500 miles’, definitely gave me a ‘spring’ in my step.

    I arrived in Burgos around 13.00 with a huge blister on my small toe and another beginning to show on my big toe.
    It was time to relax in my lodgings for 2 nights.
    I filled a bowl with water and, for the first 30 minutes, soaked my feet with Himalayan salt and the second half hour in Epsom salts - tips picked up along the Pilgrim Path.

    A well-known Buddhist parable of two monks and a woman.

    Two monks were travelling together, one young and one old. They came to a river with a strong current, where a young woman was standing alone, unable to cross unassisted. She asked the monks if they would help her cross the river. Without a word, and in spite of the sacred vow he’d taken not to touch women, the older monk picked her up, crossed the river and safely delivered her to the other side. The younger monk joins them, aghast that the older monk has broken his vow, but he remains silent. An hour passes as they travel on, then two hours, then three hours. Eventually, the now agitated younger monk could no longer stand it and asked, “Why did you carry that woman when we took a vow as monks not to touch any women?” The older monk replied, “I set her down hours ago by the side of the river. Why are you still carrying her”?

    Almost everyone has held onto something during their life, something that would have been better left by ‘the side of the river’.
    One Pilgrim divulged that he had ‘let go’ of something that day, something he had carried with him for years.

    During the Pilgrim Walk, ask yourself, What am I hanging onto? What should I have left at the side of the river?    Read more

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    Day 9 Rest day in Burgos

    September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Day 9 Rest day

    The Camino Francés challenges you physically, psychologically, and spiritually.

    The physical challenge comes first. Everybody gets some physical problem, from blisters to tendinitis, to broken bones.

    Next comes the psychological challenge. It’s repetitive walking all day. After Burgos, Central Spain, it is as flat as a tabletop, hence it gets the name ‘meseta’ the Spanish word for table. It is endless fields of hay, sunflowers and nothing else - no place to sit down and no shade.
    Furthermore, it plays with your mind.

    Then there’s the spiritual challenge. Questions emerge. Why am I doing this? What will I achieve? Who / What is keeping me going? Where do I go from here?    Read more

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    Day 10 Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 10 Burgos to Hornillos del Camino 21 km

    Blisters or other ailments appreciate a day of rest.

    Set off at 6am.
    The route out of Burgos was amazing with tree-lined avenues and colourful autumn blooms.

    Ahead was the ‘Meseta’ - a vast stretch of the Pilgrim Walk between Burgos and Leon.
    Km after Km of agricultural land, with the occasional plot of sunflowers, no trees, therefore, no shade and only a few derelict farm buildings.

    Some pilgrims experience optical illusions throughout the ‘Meseta’, like a mirage in the desert. The sun creates a layer of hot air near the sandy paths and as hot air causes the light to bend upward, it creates a reflection of the sky on the ground. Your brain automatically believes that the light has travelled in a straight line, and so you think you can see water.

    The steep descent into Hornillos Del Camino destroyed my newly reformed, day rested feet, therefore, foot soaks are definitely on tonight’s menu.

    During the IX century, a defensive line of fortress towers were built to protect the Castile. The town was known as “Forniellos”, due to its numerous tile baking furnaces.    Read more

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    Day 11 Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    September 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Day 11 Hornillos del camino to Castojeriz 22 Km

    At 6 am, my weary feet reluctantly started walking today’s route of 22 km.
    On several occasions, during the night, a pain in my right foot had disturbed my sleep. I applied a cool compress and hoped and prayed it would calm down before the morning.

    It’s at these times you have to be focused and determined - bombard your mind with positive thoughts and the reasons why you are on this journey.

    Reflection and gratitude to those who support and guide me are the diet of the day.

    This part of the Pilgrim Walk takes you into the deepest and most authentic landscape of Castilla.

    Between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz, it was endless flat paths meandering through corn fields and not one tree in sight.

    Taking the time to pause and look in the metaphoric rearview mirror, I identified the similarity of the path to success in my past and now on my journey along the Pilgrim Walk.
    The winding roads with bumps, potholes and barriers have to be addressed and conquered in order to succeed.
    One day at a time.

    Suddenly, I came across the Monastery of San Anton’, now converted into a private hostel, having previously been the Palace of King Pedro I of Castile.
    In the Middle Ages, under the arches of the old church, parishioners performed the ‘cure of the fire of San Anton’, a widespread food disease.

    Arriving in Castrojeriz, I was stunned to see the magnificent Collegiate Church of Santa María del Manzano, one of the best examples of the transition from Romanesque to Gothic.

    Following my ritual of salt soaks and Epsom salt soaks, I gained the courage to walk to the ancient castle of Castrojeriz, where it is said Queen Leonor of Castile was assassinated by order of Pedro I.
    The views were stunning and because of the angle of light that day, the distant cereal fields adopted the appearance of a vast ocean.    Read more

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    Day 12 Castrojeriz -Población de Campos

    September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Day 12 Castrojeriz to Población de Campos 31 km

    Up and off at 05.30 am. It was dark, cold and raining. Today is another 31 km, over the same terrain as the last few days.

    Last night, following a visit to the village’s small pharmacy, I nursed my blisters with ointment, eased the pain with analgesics, and contemplated whether I should go to the clinical centre to have my now ‘purple’ small toe and its black nail reviewed. I must have injured it climbing over the rocks, but I decided it will heal in its own time.

    I climbed the alto de Mostelares. The path wound its way up to the top in a tedious manner. At the top, I could almost make out what would have been a beautiful view of the valley I had just crossed.
    A short plateau followed before walking down a very steep incline. It was so steep, I had to lean backwards as I walked. Another steep slope lay ahead - I hoped no further damage would be caused to my feet.
    This ascent of Teso de Mostelares, remains etched in my mind.

    The rain was harsh and occasionally felt like nails were piercing my face. My water-resistant poncho partially protected me from the elements.
    This is where the region of Burgos merges on the banks of the Pisuerga to receive the region of Palencia.

    After a short lunch break in Fromista, I walked the final stage to Población de Campos.

    Another day without trees, benches or civilisation.

    Rest, bathe feet, dinner and bed.    Read more

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    Day 13 P de C - Carrión de los Condes

    September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 13 - Población de Campos to Carrión de Los Condes 18 Km

    Today, a shorter walk of 18 km. It’s mostly flat, giving my feet and aching hips some respite. I decided on reduced kms on today’s journey as tomorrow I had set my target at 33-35 km.

    Leaving Población de Campos at the later time of 09.00 am, I crossed a small river and followed a sand path for around 7km. I had the pleasure of passing through three small villages, Revenga de Campos, Villarmentero de Campos, and Villalcazar de Sirga, all pretty and very welcoming. The number of occupants in each village is less than 30.

    In the latter, I found the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria la Blanca, a church built by the Templars in the 12th century. Opposite the church was a good cafe and restaurant. The locals were delightful and on my departure shouted ‘Buen Camino, Buen Camino’.
    It gave me an extra boost to finish today's walk.

    Thankfully, my feet had responded to the shorter distance and I reached my destination around 11.30 am.

    I enjoyed some local cuisine prepared by the owner of the hostel. She kindly offered to do my laundry (luxury). I had my daily foot soak, applied some ointment and relaxed.    Read more

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    Day 15 Ledegos - Bercianos d Real Camino

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 15: Ledegos to Bercianos del Real Camino 27 km

    The abundance of wheat fields was overwhelming since leaving Burgos. The common chat in the dormitory last night was "Please give us a hill, an incline, a hillock, an accumulation of gravel, anything but flat."

    The repetitive, seemingly infinite ‘meseta’ drained my energy, flat lined my enthusiasm, and stole my positivity.
    Knowing this is the same path, for the next few days, dampened my mood.

    Thankfully, in the morning at 6 am, I felt regenerated.

    My perspective had shifted: the long, flat, dusty roads, lined by cornfields, may not be uplifting, but the ‘meseta’ possesses a multitude of positive aspects.
    The area is peaceful; you can almost hear yourself think; it does not bow down to the modern world; the food and accommodation are basic, wholesome and welcoming; the villagers are kind, friendly and unassuming. It also offers the perfect conditions for reflection and atonement.

    In my state of elation, I embraced the bitterly cold morning and trudged along ‘the meseta’ with fervent determination.

    I arrived in Bercianos del Real and found my hostel. Tonight's bed was in a 4-person dormitory, consisting of two sets of bunk beds. My dormitory companions were two elderly ladies who were fast asleep and snoring.    Read more

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    Day 16 - Bercianos to Reliegos

    September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day 16 - Bercianos del Real Camino to Reliegos 21 km

    In a few days, I will hit the halfway mark.

    I woke up during the night with pain in my little toe again. I left the dormitory quietly because I wanted to check my foot and treat it, if needed. My whole toe was one large blister. Ouch.
    I saw an image moving along the corridor, slowly approaching me. Could it be Florence Nightingale? Actually, the next best thing. One of the elderly residents had observed my departure and subsequently approached to inquire about my well-being and whether I required any assistance. She was all the way from Australia and a retired nurse practitioner. Kindly, she returned to the dorm and returned with a first aid kit that would have put a casualty department to shame. The result was a very cool, pain-free, comfortable toe.

    I left Bercianos after sunrise. There was something eerie about walking through this tiny hamlet in the morning mist. My destination was Reliegos, 21 km. Hopefully, my prayers will be answered, and I will arrive pain free and no additional blisters or injuries.

    I picked up a good pace, striding on - a man with a purpose. Again, a flat path surrounded by corn fields.

    After 11 km, I sat down on a bench to have some water and fruit.
    Disaster struck. My toe started throbbing. I removed my shoe to try and ease the pain and change my socks. A Swedish couple, also Pilgrims, approached me to ask if I was OK. The woman said she had heard about my 'Bad Blister' and would I allow her to evaluate the culprit. So, after another half an hour, I now had a Swedish remedy for my toe.
    People are so kind and more than willing to assist in any way they can.

    I arrived in Reliegos and found my accommodation. The owner is an Eco Warrior and his hostel is a place of wonder. The diminutive structures evoked a resemblance to the dwellings depicted in The Hobbit. There was a wonderful, central Eco flower and vegetable garden. The sweet scent of the edible flowers was in stark contrast to the smell of the entire array of fresh vegetables.

    Siesta time is calling.
    God willing, I am walking to Leon in the morning.    Read more

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    Day 17 Reliegos to León

    September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 17 - Reliegos to León 26.1 km

    This quote was shared with me last night.

    “The more in harmony with yourself you are, the more joyful you are and the more faithful you are. Faith is not disconnecting you from reality - it connects you to reality.”
    Paulo Coelho.

    I was on the route to Leon at 5.30 am.

    The descent into Mansilla de las Mulas and the Rio Esla was a rude awakening to my now numb feet. My headlamp struggled in the pitch darkness. Attire today is 3 walking tops and a fleece. It was bitterly cold and it felt uncomfortable in my bones. Numerous pilgrims had embraced the same notion at this early hour. I proceeded to briskly walk to generate heat and accumulate +++ km before 10.00 am.

    Knowing the next village was only 6 km away, I decided to keep going even though there was an opportunity to stop and have a hot drink. Hopefully, I would have thawed out before drinking a hot coffee.

    Puente Villarente boasts a magnificent and enigmatic bridge, surrounded by a densely populated riverbank dotted with thin and spherical trees. In Puente Ingente translated to 'Giant Bridge,' I again crossed an ancient bridge of twenty perfectly built arches. It was both stately and breathtaking.

    Annie had sent me some upbeat music for this ‘notorious’ part of my journey.
    I listened to the tracks and inwardly giggled at her choice.

    Time passed quickly, and soon I could see the outline of Leon. I ‘shimmied’ into the city and found my Hotel. Yes, I have the luxury of my own room tonight with a bath and an on-site restaurant.

    Tomorrow the terrain changes dramatically, setting a new challenge for my body, especially my feet.    Read more

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    Day 18 León to Hospital de Orbigo

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Day 18 - León to Hospital de Orbigo 34 km

    I departed this morning at 5.15am as today's trek was 34 km. Walking through the outskirts of Leon in the pitch dark, it was bitter cold and raining. My terrain today - more corn fields and flat paths.

    The weather was becoming more unpredictable. It was cold and wet for the first 21 km and partial sunshine for the remaining 13 km.

    Unfortunately, I had to walk 21 km before reaching the first village for coffee, breakfast and that long-awaited rest.
    The woman in the café graciously offered to dry my four layers of clothing, while I eagerly consumed her delectable classic cuisine consisting of homemade bread and tomato. This dish has several names: Pan Tumaca, Pa Amb Tomaquet, Pa Amb Oli.
    To prepare the toast bread and grate a tomato, as previously outlined, peel a clove of garlic, cut it in half, rub it over the toast, and then chop it into small pieces. Add the garlic to the grated tomato and spread on the toast. Season with salt and drizzle over a teaspoon of olive oil. Delicious.

    The last stage of the walk was eerily quiet, as most Pilgrims had decided to have their rest day in Leon.

    Eventually, I arrived at the fabulous little town of Hospital de Orbigo, with its long, well-preserved bridge and the story of Don Suero de Quinones.

    Originally, the Romans built the bridge over the river Orbigo connecting Leon with the provincial capital of Astorga. By the year 1184, a few hospitals had been erected on either side of the river to aid Pilgrims on their journey.
    Reading the village plaque, I discovered a few interesting facts. Here, a famous passage of arms took place in 1434. In the same year, medieval knight Don Suero de Quinones hit the headlines when he was scorned by a woman he loved. In response, he organised a jousting tournament, challenging all men of an equal rank to fight for their free passage across the bridge. If he defeated them, he would keep his honour. The tournament lasted nearly a month with Don Suero claiming he broke over 300 lances, defeated all his challengers and defended his honour and the bridge. He then travelled to Santiago to give thanks for the honour of defending the bridge, but was killed by Gutierre de Quijada.

    Every year in early June, the villagers revisit history by holding a jousting tournament, dressed in armour, monks' outfits, peasants' attire and velvet-clad maidens.    Read more

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    Day 19 Hosp de Orbigo - Murias de Rech

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Day 19 Hospital de Orbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo 22 km

    I am in the final stages of my journey, having 450+ km behind me and roughly 320 km to go. Kms have had to be changed due to the shortage of accommodation. Initially, my Pilgrim Walk was 700 km. This has increased to 750 km plus.

    This morning I felt reluctant to get out of bed. I was warm, dry, comfortable and weary. My telephone ‘pinged’ and it was a message from Annie: The fundraiser had another donation, heartfelt and sincere attached messages from my fundraiser’s Church congregation and Annie’s tickets were booked. She will be in Santiago to meet me when my Pilgrim journey is complete (around October 4th).

    Before departure, I was saving yesterday’s photos, and the scanned photo of our first grandchild came into sight. The beginning of a new, loving family. God just seems to know when you need that additional guidance and support.

    After a couple of hours, and 16 km, rambling through the countryside in the dark, I came upon what can only be described as an oasis.
    A low level table, piled high with fruit, juices, boiled eggs and water, donated by local Eco farmers, lay ahead. A sign, in several languages, declared “Free, help yourself. “Buen Camino”. After indulging in some fruit and juice, I went to wash my cup in the freshwater stream. The benefactor insisted that he do it and wished me “Buen Camino”. My host gave me a hug and I was on my way.

    The trail was steep and rocky. My right foot was now throbbing. Annie called and, with words of encouragement, I reached my destination.

    After washing my laundry and hanging it outside to hopefully dry, I settled into the dormitory, removed my shoes and soaked my feet. Dinner tonight is at 7 and consists of Gazpacho soup, couscous with grilled vegetables and poached apples and pears for dessert. Good value for 10 euros.    Read more

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    Day 20 Murias de Rech to El Acebo

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 20 Murias de Rechivaldo to El Acebo 32 km

    I cannot believe it is day 20.
    Today is a tough one - 32 km, and the terrain is very hilly. This stage is nicknamed ‘The Climb’.

    It lived up to its name. On numerous occasions, tracks were extremely narrow and steep, rendering it virtually impracticable to pass a fellow pilgrim. At one point, there was a queue to start a climb.

    The weather was on my side today. It was sunny, not too warm, and the path was dry under my feet.

    The small villages were delightful, resembling ski resorts. All the houses were built from natural stone with thick walls and tiny windows.
    Winter here is brutal, with cold, harsh winds and lots of snow.

    As I continued my climb, I noticed that I was above the tree line. The scenery was spectacular, compared to ‘the meseta’ of the last 8 days.

    Eventually, I reached the highest point, above sea level, of the whole Camino.
    Traditionally, a stone is left by pilgrims at the base of the famous 'Croix de Fer.' It signifies that they have left behind ‘their problem’.

    I passed a Camino km sign and the distance began with a 2. Brilliant

    I reach my destination and felt exhausted but satisfied.

    Tomorrow is going to be tougher. The first day of climbing up and over a mountain covering 24 km. It should be my last and toughest physical challenge of the journey.    Read more

  • Camino Francés TerryHCamino Francés TerryHLEAVE IT ON THE CAMINO

    Day 21 El Acebo to Camponaraya

    September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Day 21 El Acebo to Camponaraya 22.5 km

    Last night’s accommodation was amazing. €17 for bed and breakfast. Newly built two years ago, it was a Pilgrim’s dream. Not only because of its comfortable bunk beds—four to a dormitory—but it also had a fabulous Pilgrim menu, a swimming pool, a hydro pool, osteopaths, physiotherapists, medical staff, and numerous treatment rooms. Fortunately, I did not require any of the medical services. Unfortunately, many had to seek attention.

    Balancing the needs of both your body and mind can be tricky during this walk.

    Following the past draining days hiking through the uninspiring ‘Meseta’, my walking brain was in low battery mode. I desperately needed an injection of ‘get up and go’, to prepare myself for the start of the steep climb to the highest village on the Camino Francés.

    As the sun gradually crawled up behind, and onto the distant mountains, I made my morning call to Annie and shared the incredible scene. Throughout our correspondence, she consistently employs a means of instilling the desire to persist towards my goals. This morning, she employed "One more step along the world I go." Having never heard this hymn before, I found the words inspirational.

    My first stop was in Santa Catalina de Somoza. It was the village of Maragatos muleteers. The houses were robust with double-leafed doors and were all painted in primary colours.
    I then reached Rabanal del Camino with only 75 inhabitants. It has a long tradition linked to the Camino Frances.
    During the Middle Ages, there were several hostels and churches in the village. The pilgrims stayed here in order to regain strength and form safety groups to cross Mount Irago, full of dangerous wild animals and bandits.
    The village also served as an outpost to the order of the Templars of Ponferrada to protect the pilgrims.

    Today, many pilgrims were experiencing the local ‘Maragatería Gastronomy'.
    Maragato Stew, Vegetable Stew, and Vegetable Rice.

    I decided to pass on this treat and continue walking, determined to finish in good time and enjoy my evening meal.

    Arriving at my destination, Camponaraya, I eagerly sought out my accomodation. I desperately required a rest and foot soak.

    Another day complete, and one more day closer to reaching my goal.    Read more

  • Camino Francés TerryHCamino Francés TerryHLEAVE IT ON THE CAMINO

    Day 22 Camponaraya to Trabadelo

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Day 22 Camponaraya to Trabadelo 25 km

    A few kilometres outside Camponaraya, the landscape changed to rolling hills, patches of forest and farmland.

    I stopped for coffee in the pleasant village of Cacabelos, a former administrative centre for 5th century gold mining.

    Now my journey was in the Bierzo wine region, with a landscape of vineyards, mixed groves and cherry trees as far as you could see.

    I arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo at lunchtime, but instead of stopping for tapas I decided to continue on my journey.
    The path was wedged between a rock-strewn, fast running, clear water stream and a busy road. Such a contrast.

    Throughout my pilgrim walk, everyone exchanges medical remedies and pharmaceutical products. I would purchase a heat gel for my muscles and use it for a few days then pass it on to someone in need. One pilgrim received cream from Swedish walkers then passed it on to me. A Spaniard gave me some anti-inflammatory ointment and I gave him antiseptic spray to apply on a small tear in his skin, etc. This is a genuine, albeit rare, instance of exemplary and sincere international cooperation that is free from any hidden motives.    Read more

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