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The Ultimate Fann Mountains
  • Sharon Miller

The Ultimate Fann Mountains

KE Adventures with guide Shahzod and fellow travellers Hugh, Ray, Leslie, Sherry, Rachel, Laura, Judy, Simon, Steve and Clair Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 30, 2025
    Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Arrival in Dushanbe

    August 30 in Tajikistan ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    We arrived in Dushanbe at 1:20am after a 5 hour flight from Bishkek to Istanbul, a 5 hour layover in Istanbul and then a 4 hour flight to Dushanbe. Thankfully the hotel was only 6 minutes from the airport and we were settled in and snoozing without delay. It was a long day but no surprises so we are grateful to be here and have 2 days to rest and relax before starting with the group on September 1st.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    City Tour of Opulent Dushanbe

    September 1 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We met our group and our tour leader Shazod at 11am this morning. We are 12 people, which requires two mini buses to accommodate all of us and our luggage. We are 9 Brits, 1 American and 2 Canucks. We embarked on a city tour of Dushanbe, which is a city with a captivating history and unique architecture. Our first stop was the National Museum of Antiquities where we viewed the famous “Sleeping Buddha” as well as many richly illustrated artifacts dating back to the stone and the bronze ages. We also learned how the Persian Empire conquered this area, hence the language spoken here is of Persian influence, unlike the adjoining Republics whose language are derived from the Turkish language. It was unique experience to walk barefoot throughout the museums on plush Persian carpets. Next up was the Navruz Palace which was shockingly opulent. The very animated palace guide reminded us often that this was not a museum but an active part of the community as a venue for weddings and political and business conferences. On top of the fancy rooms, there was a bowling alley, carting, billiards, and a video arcade. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of salads, breads, soup and main course of rice and meat. Consuming so much food made us sleepy so made a quick sweep of the indoor market and then went back to the hotel for a 2 hour break and continued our tour at 7 pm, visiting the statue of Ismail Somoni, the founder of theTajik nation, and wandered through the night lit Rudaki Park, which is dedicated to their great Persian poet Rudaki, who lived in the 10th century. It was a beautiful evening to wander around. We topped the day off with devouring more delicious food at a wonderful Tajik restaurant where we enjoyed some more yummy salad, soup and lamb kebabs. Time to hit the trails and get walking some of it off, or we might just roll through Tajikistan!Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Dushanbe to Iskanderkul

    September 2 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We loaded up the mini buses and departed the country’s capital city at 9 am. Once we cleared the city limits we started in on the winding roads and mountain tunnels until we stopped in Sarvoda for some lunch. The place didn’t look like much but served up a traditional meal of Qurutob -cheese balls in a yogurt sauce and covered in bread and onions topped with delicious fresh salad. It was served in a big wooden bowl. Yum, yum! After lunch we climbed up, up, up the stony mountains until we could spot our cabins in Iskanderkul, our final destination for the day. Iskanderkul is a triangular shaped lake named after Alexander the Great, (“Iskander” is the Persian form of Alexander). We had some free time to wander and admire the views on our own before we gathered as a group for a short hike, 5km, to Iskander Waterfall and Snake Lake before dinner.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler
    11111

    Drive to 7 Lakes

    September 3 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We awoke to a calm lake and blue skies, making the reflection of the mountains in the Iskander Lake truly stunning. After a delicious fresh air breakfast, we hit the road again and travelled by minibus on a route which took us through the Shing Gorge with its famous 7 pearls of Tajikistan - 7 mountain lakes each with its own distinctive colour, micro climate, and flora. Luckily we were able to take a photo stop at each one along the way. We lunched at a guesthouse near the 4th lake, in the village of Noffin. After lunch we drove to the 6th lake and stopped for a short walk through the village of Podrud where we were serenaded by some children playing in the streets. From the 6th lake we hiked to the 7th and last lake where our camp team was setting up for our arrival in Hazorchashma. We are picturesquely situated at the water’s edge and our team of donkeys is grazing and braying to their hearts content. We are thrilled with our luxury loo! In our free time before dinner, we strolled along one side of the lake to the far end and back. We are anxious to see how things all come together tomorrow when we strike out for our 7 day trek! As we passed through the many villages en route today we were lucky to see a lot of children coming and going from school. They looked so sharp in their uniforms-white blouse and navy skirt for the girls and white shirt, tie, navy vest or suit jacket and navy dress pants for the boys, it was their first week of school too. As a last note: for today I must mention that several hours of our trip consisted of traversing harrowing roads at the rocky edge of the mountain. Gilles and I were in the front seat with the driver so had front row seats. There was a lot of closed eyes and praying and once I opened my eyes at the wrong time and poor Gilles has a bite mark on the left shoulder as a consequence. It was the nearest thing I could bite down on to thwart my screams. We were thrilled when that joy ride was over. goodbye minibus, hello legs! At least I am operating under my own power. At dinner time we asked our guide if there were lots of casualties on this narrow, windy, one vehicle wide dirt road in which there is two way traffic and a multitude of steep blind corners. He responded saying that none that he knows of that involved tourists. So smooth!Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Hazorchashma

    September 3 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    It was fun to explore camp. There were some other tourists enjoying the beach when we got there but they cleared out at dinner time and we had the place to ourselves. The donkeys had a lot to say during the night but that is what earplugs are for for we slept relatively well. A few friendly stray dogs hung about as well but were well behaved. The donkey handlers all have lovely long coats and big smiles. When returning to camp from our walk around the lake, we were overtaken by a herd of goats which took us by surprise and we were grateful that we were able to hop off the path in a hurray.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Hazorchashma Pass to Danisher

    September 4 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We have 14 donkeys, 5 donkey handlers plus a cook and extra guide named Saddulatrekking with us for the next week. Feeling a wee bit like royalty! While we ate breakfast, the tents were disassembled and the donkeys were loaded up with our luggage, the tents and the other camp supplies. We got an early start and trekked east from Hazorchashma Lake (2400m) towards the Tovassang Pass climbing steadily to 3350m. We had a picnic lunch at the top of the pass and let the donkeys overtake us so things would be set up when we got to our camp in Donisher Gorge. The view of the Sarmat Gorge in the distance was worth the exertion to reach the pass but our trek was not over. We needed to go down into the gorge to our nights camp at 2900m . It was a long, hot, tiring day ( 12km, 8.5 hours). Our camp was set up strafegically beside a river and in a grassy flat area with a gorgeous view of the mountains as a backdrop.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Danisher to Duoba (1870m)

    September 5 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Fortunately, we enjoyed an easier today as it was downhill all the way. The trail was full of delights too leading us through dense forest and on narrow, steep slopes that ran alongside the river. By contrast to yesterday, we enjoyed colour, sounds, encounters with yaks, donkeys, cattle, and goats. The sight of nothing but granite yesterday was enough for one trip. However, the tall mountains on either side of the trail were stunning today. Our donkey crew passed us at about 7km, the half way mark. We had our lunch in a beautiful shady spot only a few hundred meters from the small village of Khomori Goitan. Our four legged companion, named Bear, wandered into our camp the first night and has followed us every step of the way since. He takes an interest in us all, and we in him. When we crossed the river at the village a family claimed that he was their dog but Bear would have no part of it and took off. No coaxing from any of us to get him to go back worked, so I guess there is more to the story. We crossed the Archamaidon and Sarmat Rivers before reaching camp in Duoba around 2:30pm. Free time until dinner at 7pm. Time for a rest, a stroll around camp, some reading and writing and an opportunity to reflect on the fact that we are fortunate enough to be here. What a grand way to spend the day! I laughed at the sight of the donkeys rolling in a sandy spot near the river at our campsite. I bet their backs get itchy covered in a saddle and bags of camp gear for hours and it probably feels as good to them as us removing our hiking boots and dipping our bare feet in the cold stream. Our day finished with a campfire and sing song. Our camp crew sang in Tajik and got us up dancing and we responded with English songs. We went back and forth a few times and then things fell apart when we tried to sin the 12 Days of Christmas and got stuck at number 8. All in all, it was great fun and their smiles are infectious even if we don’t have a word in common.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Duoba to Voru

    September 6 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We left our camp on the banks of the Archamaidon River at 8am to make our way to a very famous town in Tajikistan, Voru. Voru, which is totally off the beaten track, is way up the hillside off the main road. It is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being a village which is full of buildings which are over 2000 years old. There are currently 131 buildings, including a mosque, a school, (160 students), a hospital, a blacksmith shop and many family homes. The village is shaped liked the country of Tajikistan as well and is run by a leader, who luckily enough was the person who gave us a tour. Quite a privilege for us as they only allow up to 3 tours a week during the summer season. He was so proud and made us climb up a steep hill to get the best view of the entire village. We visited the blacksmith and he gave us a demonstration and we also visited the school. The students were extremely shy. We also were given tea and cookies at a private home. It was such a treat to see up close how people here live and study and work. Most of the villagers are involved in farming and agriculture. Every one had a big smile, was well dressed, happy and healthy. Many were away working in the hills with their livestock or picking fruit and vegetables. From there we made our way to our guesthouse in Zimtut where we enjoyed lunch, a shower and a flushing toilet. There was even a beautiful shelter to relax in that hung over the raging river.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Zimtut Village Life

    September 6 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    In the afternoon we relaxed in the shelter for a while and then took a walk up the road following the river for a few kilometres and then returning home. At 4:30 they put a cooking demonstration on for us which involved them showing us how to make a traditional dish called mendu, which is like dumplings. We were fascinated by how thin and big the guesthouse cook could roll the dough with a rolling pin and long curved board. We took turns filling the dumpling squares and shaping them. It was an unexpected treat. In most homes this dish is made on a week. After the demonstration Saddulla gave us a tour of his Zimtut, which is his home town. The more we walked, the larger the crowd of children following us grew. We even went to his home and met his grandmother, parents and one of his two sisters and their new kitten. Some of the young boys wanted to show us their volleyball skills at the school. We went to the mosque, and learned that villagers choose their religion at 18 years of age and then ended our tour at a local shop to fill up on treats and cold drinks. There are currently 72 families living in this village.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Zimtut to Artuch Alpinist Camp

    September 7 in Tajikistan ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    We had a very “wonder-full” day of trekking today. It was all uphill in the morning (1200m) to reach the stunning Ghuytan Pass at 2800m and then 600m meters down to the magical Chukurak mountain lake which is not as full as it was all summer, but pretty none the less. From there we descended for another 30 minutes to reach our final destination of Artuch Alpinist Camp where we have a 2 bedroom cabin with a shower and toilet inside the cabin, and a beautiful restaurant to eat at. Our cook still made our meal but we got to eat it inside! The noisy donkeys are on the other side of the camp. Yahoo! It was 15km trek which took us 7 hours as we stopped often, thankfully, to cope with the steepness in both directions. Feeling accomplished! Gilles made his way to Panjakent this morning where he will spend the next 3 days while I finish the trek.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler
    11

    Kulikalon Lake and on to Bibjanat Lake

    September 8 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We had a delightful ascent of 600m to the Kulikalon Lakes. The Kulikalon area is a plateau at an altitude of around 2800m full of rivers and beautiful lakes of varying size and colour. They are some of the most beautiful lakes of the entire Fann Mountains. We finished our 10km, 5 hour hike at the picturesque lake of Bibijanat, where our camp was set up. I didn’t know where to look. The backdrop to the camp with it’s high peaks and glacier was a pretty as the view of the lake to the front, the river on one side and the rocky hillside on the other. After an hours rest we struck our to explore more of the area lakes and even stumbled on a beer store that sprung up along the deserted shore of one of the lakes. The day ended with yet another delicious and nutritious camp meal and the camp crew singing and dancing around the campfire.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Bibikanat Lake to Alauddin Lake

    September 9 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We departed camp early this morning and ascended 1000m towards the incredible Alauddin Pass (3860). Everyone was a little nervous but our guides kept us all together and we trekked at a comfortable pace and were awarded multiple small breaks. It was the highest point and the most challenging climb. We hit the peak of the pass in 3 hours and were rewarded with a clear view of Chapdara Glacier as well as Mont Odamsang and Mount Marrriya. When we looked down the other side of the pass we were doubly rewarded by being able to spot Alauddin Lake and Guitar Lake with their mystical shades of blue and green. The colours changed according to the sun hitting it. Now to get down to them where we can cool off in the cold, refreshing water. The descent was quite steep and the lakes were farther away than they looked. We enjoyed a long picnic lunch half way down, taking in the magnificent scenery on this our final day of trekking, and arrived at camp around 3pm. Believe it or not the descent was 1100m of altitude, 100 meters more than we ascended. What a grand finale. One more sleep in a tent and then we are off to Uzbekistan, after picking up Gilles in Panjakent. Yahoo!Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Alauddin Lake to Samarkand via Panjakent

    September 10 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We awoke to a beautiful day and had to say farewell to our camp crew. They made one small final trek down from the lake to Alauddin Alpinist Camp with the donkeys who carried our luggage. It was an unexpectedly beautiful 40 minute walk down to the camp and we soaked in the scenery until we reached the meeting spot where we met our drivers who took us to the border of Uzbekistan, via Panjakent. We drove for 1.5 hours on a very bumpy dirt rode where the scenery made me feel like I was on a movie set. Unfortunately I could only capture it in my mind as there was too much jostling about in the vehicle to hold a camera steady. All part of the experience! This was another great surprise as we followed the river and passed through some tiny towns on our way. We finally reached the paved road and were in Panjakent by 1pm. We picked up Gilles and went to a restaurant for a farewell meal. We are sad to say goodbye to Shahzod and Saddula. Steve gave a heartfelt and humorous thank you speech and then we made a 30 minute stop at the Sarasm ruins -a UNESCO world heritage site and continued on to the border. Crossing on foot was not easy as we had to lug our own gear for 1.2 kms and go through a total of 4 check points, all of which required lining up. Our Uzbek guide, Rousland, met us on the other side and guided us towards our bus that would take us to Samarkand, an hours drive away. We finally reached our hotel at 5:30 pm and headed straight for the shower. At 7pm we drove across town in the traffic to reach our dinner restaurant and then enjoyed a delicious meal. The table next to us had a HUGE charcuterie board of assorted meat which was the longest one I have ever seen. It was served with a great deal of fanfare and made us all envious. Our beds sure felt good when we finally were able to lay our heads down!Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Guided Tour of Samarkand - Part 1

    September 11 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We spent the day today touring the amazing city of Samarkand, the cultural capital of the the Islamic World. Our guide, Rousland, is a gifted storyteller and had us spellbound as we followed in the footsteps of Tamerlane. Our first stop was King Ulugbek’s Observatory, which still houses parts of the original astronomical instruments. In a time of war and conquest, this leader prioritized science and knowledge, leading to great advances in astronomy. His choices also led to his demise as he was ultimately beheaded by his son who returned the country to military expansion for the pursuit of gold and slaves. Our next stop was a visit to Gur Emir Mausoleum, where the tomb of Tamerlane lies beneath an enormous slab of dark green jade. The interior of the mausoleum is ornately decorated with blue and gold panels, which shine brightly. The marble work on the minarets and spires are stunning as well.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Guided Tour of Samarkand Part 3

    September 11 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Our 4th stop was the Bibi Khanym Mosque, built by Tamerlane in the 15th century for his favourite wife. The first photo is one of a mosque that she built and claimed was big. Her husband built one across the street from hers to show her what big really was. In the middle of the complex sits a large glass enclosed concrete and marble book stand for the Koran. We saved the best for last, visiting the magnificent Registan Square, and the 3 Madrassahs (Islamic Colleges). One of the minarets was leaning slightly and claimed to give off the feeling of inbalance if you climbed to the top. Of course we had to see for ourselves and paid to climb up and admire the view. I loved to stroll through the square with its beautiful grounds and watch people coming and going or gathering for coffee or ice cream. Our lovely hotel was only a 15 minute walk away so around 4 pm we returned to rest and freshen up for dinner and the evening light and laser show in the square. A tiring but perfect day of cultural immersion.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler
    1

    Evening Show in Registan Square

    September 11 in Uzbekistan ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    We dined on the rooftop of a beautiful restaurant located directly behind the Registan Square and watched the sun come down. The weather was warm and the food and drinks were delicious. After dinner we walked to the square and took in the light show and 17 minute laser show. Both were outstanding and we felt so privileged to sit amongst the crowd and witness it. A perfect ending to a perfect day.Read more

  • Sharon MillerThe Ultimate Fann MountainsTraveler

    Free Day in Samarkand

    September 12 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today was a free day to immerse ourselves in this enchanting Silk Road city. We took an early morning stroll down to the Slyob Bazaar where I purchased a nice quilted jacket. Gilles and I both needed haircuts so got that done at a barber shop for $10 each. Women here wear their hair long so I was advised to go to a barber shop, given my short hair style. After lunch we took another stroll to Registan Square where we ate gelato and people watched. It was a great day to play catch up with packing and reading and sorting photos. No complaints from this girl! Our time in the Stan’s (6 weeks) has come to an end. Was it everything I had hoped for? Yes it was! I loved every minute in the mountains, hiking up steep passes and down into deep gorges, trekking alongside streams and rivers, camping alongside picturesque mountains and lakes, crossing rickety wooden bridges, bumpy car rides on bad roads at the cliffs edges, and traipsing through pastures of sheep, cattle, goats, yaks and horses. It wasn’t always easy but things that are worthwhile rarely are. Some of the hikes were tough and challenged my body and my mind, some of the nights camping were cold, some days were very hot and dusty while others were muddy and slippery. I always had nourishing food, a warm sleeping bag, comfortable clothing, and a roof over my head ( a canvas one at the very least). The views took my breath away and brought tears to my eyes. For me this trip was a dream come true. We depart at 3am tomorrow morning for Portugal. Feeling very blessed and grateful.💕Read more

    Trip end
    September 13, 2025
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