An end is a beginning in disguise

In a stroke of near genius I explored the petrol station over the road, and they have a coffee machine. That’s enough to get me going in the morning. The N550 isn’t to be taken lightly though; it’s a fast road and even for a Tufty Club member like me, dangerous. (You’ll have to google that across the pond)

Come to think of it Tufty would have been squirrel roadkill in Spain, as they drive on the other side of the road. The public information programmes of my youth didn’t anticipate foreign holidays.

Regrettably Mrs HtD has picked up a virus and is feeling rather ill indeed. I’ve had a good look at options to get straight back from Santiago to Manchester; but the timings and routings simply don’t work. The train situation through Vigo and into Portugal is poor, so bus to Porto on Saturday and fly Sunday.

Notwithstanding the above, a splendid evening locally with three delightful peregrino/as. The first time I’ve actually met up with some of the very few currently walking this route. The two Germans are big lads - and that’s a relative statement as I’m a bit of a wok-smuggler myself. Renowned early risers they’re off at dark o’clock in the morning.

The morning arrived, as it so often does. Last night’s café was open at 0700, so real coffee was available and off I set in what I can say with new-found authority was nearly six litres per square metre per hour of precipitation. Near torrential.

A welcome second stop at the Parada de Francos and then head down and plough on to the O’Camino at Milladoiro where cold boiled eggs were on offer.

Shortly after the rain eased and by the time I was stood in front of the Cathedral it has stopped raining.

With a degree of pleasure whilst taking my ease, in came my two German friends ten minutes after me. If only I knew the German for shadenfreude I could explain how I feel.

Really not much to report on the route. I’m pleased I got the extra distance in yesterday and my over-riding impression is that the pandemic has done lasting harm to the infrastructure of this route, much as I thought on the Meseta this time last year.

(Oh, actually, there is. About 4K out of town in the vicinity of an underpass the trees en route are ‘decorated’ for a good 400m with literally thousands of blue disposable masks and tied-on tissue paper streamers. Absolutely dreadful someone’s invested a lot of time and effort in making a real mess.)

Santiago; where I’ve been many times before; feels different. It’s wet and there are not many folk knocking around. I’m surprised that gaita player hasn’t been given the hard word by now, it must drive the cathedral staff up the wall. I don’t know who I’m mis-quoting but a gentleman is someone who knows how to play the bagpipes but doesn’t.

Surprisingly I’m enthused by the arrival of a large group of young people. They’ve clearly put some effort in as there’s a lot of limping going on; but they light up the place on what’s a dull day. Normally I could give the child-catcher from chatty chitty bang bang a lesson in intolerance, but I’m making an exception for once.

The pandemic and economy seems to have taken its toll on Santiago. The Bodega San Roque has gone the way of all flesh sadly. It was excellent. I’ll have to do a bit of research.

I holed up in a small bar near the cathedral and one thing led to another but some time later checked in at the Altair, 400m or so out of the centre and on the inbound route for the ingles. I’ve always stayed here; comfortable and well staffed and with a good sized bath.

And that’s about it folks. Maybe a final short post tomorrow. This time last year having been MRI scanned I thought I was a dead cert for double knee-replacement. Turns out I was wrong for now.

I’m not looking forward to a 4-hour bus to Porto, but needs must. I can cancel the train tickets when I’m on the bus, but it’s of dubious necessity as the trains seem to be in chaos anyway.

I did collect a Compostela; but as I’ve already got enough to paper the back room I had it dedicated to Mrs HtD.

Thanks all, it’s been a pleasure. I should be back on Camino later this year all else being equal.

DavidRead more