• Beth Vogelzang
juni 2018

Big Trouble in Little China

Visiting my big sis in the big country. Watch out China, we're on our way! Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    1. juni 2018

    Shanghai bound...

    1. juni 2018, Australien ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    So, here we are, in the QANTAS club, not a bad trip in by public transport. Getting lots of birthday love from family and friends...loving it all. (Thank you!). It is a 10 and a half hour flight, so I’m hoping there are some good movies to watch! Very excited to catch up with Kerry and Clinton!Læs mere

  • Marriage market...

    2. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    So we started the day with Wien, our driver taking us to the Shanghai Financial center Tower... The big one that looks like a bottle opener... 100 floors up, and 450 meters up.... The day was pretty clear, by Shanghai standards. We then headed to the Science & Technology markets, and a fabulous dumpling lunch. Then we went to the Peoples Park, to the Marriage Market. Very interesting. The days of the one child policy favouring males gas come back to haunt, as there are many many males in their 30s unmarried, so their patents come to meet to arrange prospective dates, with a view to marriage. Many don't know there are even in the market!Læs mere

  • The Bund...

    2. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Tonight we went out for a fabulous dinner, using my birthday as an excuse, but we really didn't need one... We went to "M on the Bund". The view on the terrace was magnificent, the Pearl Tower immediately across the Huangpu River from the restaurant, and ad the sun set, the lights came out to play. The food was awesome, ending with a delicious pavlova (the restaurant is owned by an Aussie) and passion fruit souffle. At the end of the day, we trekked home through throngs of humanity (the millions come out to play on Saturdays) to finally reach home, and rest for the weary...Læs mere

  • Foot slogging the local area...

    3. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today was an exploding day around the local area... Kerry and Paul had to head back to the market o negotiate a new SD card for Clinton’s camera, as the first was not right. Clinton and Beth went walking around the Former French Concession of Shanghai - around the area of where they live. The first pic shows one of the big flyovers of the elevated roads. Note the flower boxes...all the elevated roadways have them! Very civilised!

    There are lots of parks and green spaces in Shanghai - Clinton showed me a spot that is a bit of a haven for expats from everywhere. It is called Found-58, and is basically a park, with a hole in the ground, and lots of restaurants and bars. There was a German biergarten, a Mexican cantina, and more, plus, a new addition: Little Creatures - from WA. It even sold Aussie wine, which is very expensive here, but not too bad there, as long as it is happy hour, which seems to start at varying times everywhere.

    This remains very much a PRC state, despite the very obvious capitalism, and there are signs espousing the core values everywhere. This sign are the core values specific to Shanghai... quite unusual that they’re in English...

    We kept walking, looking at some amazing little laneways and high end shops. They can turn around a new shop fit out in a week, and it happens frequently. We found a pop-up shop for the very gorgeous Stieff bears, and I couldn’t resist shooting Clinton with one.

    We visited the site of the Second National Congress of the PRC, from the 1920’s. The First National Congress was in Xintiandi, just down the road from Kerry and Clinton’s apartment. This was very austere, and very much waving the red flag.

    From there, we found an amazing Art Deco antique shop...it had an amazing array of stunning pieces, from Cartier spoons, to silk screens, to amazing humidor to fit hundreds of Cubans...it was like a museum, thrown together...but with price tags...it was a great glimpse into history, but not limited to the Art Deco era...some pieces were much much older...bronze statuettes, enamels, and petrified bones...

    We had a late lunch at a restaurant called Chicken & Egg - it served the most amazing roast chicken...tender and plentiful, with chat potatoes roasted in chicken fat (sensational), garlic baby beans, and cauliflower au gratin...divine, and cheap as chips.

    Foot sore we wandered on, and found a little cat cafe, with what you expect...it was very cute. We wanted our coffee at Cupple, however, and if you’ve seen my Facebook page, you’ll have seen our coffees with our faces laser etched on them! Quite amazing!

    We headed back to the apartment for a leisurely evening - the boys went to look at the car showrooms, looking at Maseratis and McLarens. We’ve seen some very interesting vehicles on the streets, from high end Porsche’s to Lady Penelope’s pink Bentley. They then found a bar and had a beer, while Kerry and I sipped on a baileys or two, and watched a doco on The Eagles, while we packed for our trip to Xian tomorrow...
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  • Fast train to Xian

    4. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    An early start today, we were picked up by Wien for the one hour trip to Hongqqiao Train Station for our bullet train to Xianbei. This station reminded me of the scenes from Blade Runner...with the lights and echoing voiceovers...quite amazing.

    The train trip is 6 hours at an average speed of 300km per hour. The landscape has been very flat, with lots of arable land that is well planted out. Even in the middle of nowhere, there are sudden pockets of very bland tall apartment buildings.

    When we arrive in Xianbei, we will be collected by our tour guide for the next few days, Phoenix... I’ll post more soon...
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  • Walking the Wall...

    4. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We arrived at Xi’anbei at 2.30 pm, and were collected by our guide, Phoenix, and driver Mr Wu. We got straight into sightseeing, and headed to the city wall. This wall is 14km around...and very wide. We hired bicycles, and rode half way around and back, starting at the East Gate. The wall is cobbled, and was a bit rough on the mountain bikes...they were heavy and small framed, so we all struggled a bit getting used to them - not to mention that it was very hot, 37C.

    There was a beautiful bride, traditionally dressed in a red dress, like a kimono, but not, of course. She had the traditional red eye shadow, and looked very beautiful. Her groom, on the other hand, was non-traditional in a black and purple floral stove-pipe suit...
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  • Dumplings, dumplings, and more dumplings

    4. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We were hungry after the long train trip and visit to the wall, so Phoenix recommended the oldest restaurant in Xi’an. It specialised in dumpling soup, and the local dumplings made from wheat, rather than rice. We opted for the lowest priced set menu, at 138 ¥ (about $A27), including beer. Tsingtao, is cheaper than anything else and comes in huge bottles. It is actually very easy drinking... We started with noodles, spinach with walnuts, lamb, and a shrimp salad...then came a broth, made at the table on a burner into which tiny dumplings were placed. We thought that was it...but then the dumplings kept coming! They were all hand made, looked and tasted beautiful, as you can see by the pictures... duck, shrimp, chicken, pork, vegetable. It was amazing, and we were very full afterwards...Læs mere

  • The Muslim Quarter - a food bazaar

    4. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Next stop was a walk through the bazaar in the Muslim Quarter of Xi’an. There is a very big Muslim community here, all from the North. They have brought many delicacies and you could buy anything here...from fried octopus on a stick (they were a bit freaky looking) to fresh durian to all kind of spiced nuts. It was a hive of activity, and very interesting!Læs mere

  • Tripping the light fantastic

    4. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After the bazaar, Phoenix and Mr Wu dropped us at our hotel, after driving us up an amazing lit street. We were pretty footsore, and not just a little bit weary, but we decided we would walk the kilometre or so from the hotel to the Golden Pagoda.

    The lights were amazing, with statues of emperors and their generals, as well as famous poets and philosophers.

    It was really lively, with dancing, buskers (violinists and what we affectionately call the plinky plonk instrument), and kite flyers.

    We stopped for coffee in what was probably the most unusual (read bad) Starbucks in the world. I couldn’t get the concept of Iced Tea across (it was a really hot night!) so I gave up and ordered a latte. Well, that took three tries for the barista to perfect the love heart latte art til I got my luke warm coffee. Oh well, First world problem.

    Our hotel , The Wyndham Grand Xi’an South was fabulous. Wonderful rooms with very comfy beds. Highly recommended.
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  • Climbing the steepest mountain in China

    5. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    An early start today, we took in the hotel buffet breakfast. An amazing affair, with just about anything you could possibly want for breakfast. We were greeted by Sam, a twenty-something boy from NZ via Brisbane, who studied Mandarin at uni, and is now perfecting it in Xi’an. He managed the dining room, and looked after us very well, training the barista in the art of a flat white, after the asked him what we meant when we asked for flat water... haha.

    We were collected by Phoenix and Mr Wu, for the long drive towards Mount Huashan, the mountain with the sheerest cliffs in all of China. There are five peaks on the top, and we would decide how many peaks we would conquer once there.

    It was a two hour drive in our people mover to the tour base, then we had to jump on a company bus for a 40 minute ride up to the base of the gondola. 350 stairs greeted us to the gondola staging area, or, you could catch a luge, and be towed up. Guess what we did...

    The gondola ride was another 20 minutes, and we marvelled at the technology and how they made it, as it was indeed very steep.
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  • Hiking Everest...

    5. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Ok, so it wasn’t exactly Everest, but it sure was steep and lots and lots of rough hewn stairs, all up. The views were spectacular, and we worked hard for it. We were the only Westerners on the mountain, and we were frequently stopped to have our pictures taken with the Easterners. Paul in particular had a queue at one stage when he stopped near a stone obelisk-like structure...they called him the sixth peak! They did seem to like my blond hair and blue eyes too...they often came and practiced a little English to ask if they could have a picture, or else the snuck beside us and took a surreptitious selfie... haha. Ah, the paparazzi...

    The views were amazing, and as you can see, at times we had our best sides on view too. One particular bit, you had to climb up using foot holds hanging on a chain...it was actually fun, and none of us skinned our knees.
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  • Blessed by a very cute Monk

    5. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Paul and I climbed three peaks, Kerry and Clinton did a bit more - our knees were starting to give way, but we did exceptionally well. Phoenix, our guide trekked along with us, and regaled stories of the first climbers to the peak, and one in particular who carried his elderly mother up, as she could not climb it, and he wanted her to see it. He erected an obelisk to commemorate. Early climbers etched in the stone various glyphs - this one reads “a magnificent view”, according to Phoenix, and it certainly was....

    Dotted here and there are small temples and huts. At one point we came across a small Daoist Monastery, with a very cute young monk manning it...he lived up the mountain. There was a donation box, of course, and if you put money in, he would ring a sound on a brass bowl, and you could light incense and make a wish. We asked for a photograph, if it wasn’t disrespectful (through our guide of course, as he spoke no English) and he said on one condition - that if we had any currency, could he swap with us! I gave him one of our pretty five dollar notes, which he was delighted with, and gave me ¥25 back, which of course I put in his box, and he rang the bowl. He asked us a question about Australia- he wanted to know what direction the doors faced in Australia, because in Xi’an, the doors all faced South, as that was best for Feng shui...

    The trip back to the hotel was long, as we were very tired after a long hot hiking day, and we all dozed a little.

    We originally had plans to dine at another restaurant recommended by Phoenix, but when we hit the hotel, we found they had a Seafood buffet, and our choice was easy. Sam again greeted us, and looked after us well (he had a very long shift). Foot sore and weary, we flaked...
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  • Pit # One - saving the best til last

    6. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    We entered at the back of this vast covered room, to see a lot of warriors in varying states of reconstruction. It reminded us of Game of Thrones.

    As we walked around this massive building, the vastness of this site was very evident. The warriors are all different, and all had different roles...there were the archers in front, who were all very young, and intended to be the sacrifices. The seated archers were behind them, followed by infantrymen. The Generals, and lesser officers were behind.

    The warriors needed horses of course, and they were there, perfect in every sense. All these statues are life sized (or a bit bigger, so as to increase on their imposing nature). They were built to guard Emperor Qin in the after-life, and as the entire site including the mound that is the Emperors mausoleum built around 250BC, they would be much much more to find...
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  • Huaqing Palace of the Emperor

    6. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    The last stop on our tour of Xi’an was the Huaqing Palace, the Emperor’s holiday home...it contained many hot spa pools, not that you would want to swim in them now - they do not seem to have any filtration, as they are quite green and even the goldfish don’t like it much...

    There were many ornate buildings, and lots of history. Chiang Ki Shek was captured here in 1936, and deported to Taiwan, never to return to China. Many historic meetings have also occurred there. There was another gondola to the top of the mountain above the palace, but it would not have been as impressive at the one at Mt Huashan,so we missed it.

    Phoenix and Mr Wu drove us to Xi’anbei station, to catch the fast train back to Shanghai. We bade them farewell, and parted ways.

    We are now on the train heading 6 hours to Shanghai, where we will surely sleep like babies tonight...
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  • The Terracotta Warriors...

    6. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Up early again, we breakfasted and checked out of our hotel, to head towards the place we were really looking forward to...The Terracotta Army of Emperor Qin, the First Emperor who unified China.

    It was about an hour’s drive, and the day was dawning very hot again.

    Our first stop was to meet Mr Yang, one of the farmers whose well-digging on their farm in 1974 discovered Pit #1, finding a terracotta head when he fell through the hole.

    They lost their farm when the officials took it over, with no compensation, and their families struggled, until in the 1990’s, Bill Clinton came to visit, and wanted to meet one of the farmers who found such an amazing discovery. The government realised that Mr Yang’s house was not suitable for a visit from such an important man, and gave Mr Yang all sorts of things to improve his home. Bill Clinton met Mr Yang, and shook his hand. After that Mr Yang became a bit of a celebrity, and now has a job at the site. We could shake his hand, and if we bought a book from him, he would sign his name and place his “chop” in the book, and let us take a photo with him like Bill Clinton...so, of course we did.

    Then we decided (or at least our guide Phoenix did) to go in the opposite direction to the holds...we would starts in the museum housing the bronze horses and charioteers that were found near Emperor Qin’s tomb (a large mound that has not yet been breached, due to stories that it is booby trapped, and his coffin floats on a river of Mercury. They have determined that the Mercury levels of that area are indeed very high, but they have not yet found a way to breach the tomb...

    We then entered Pit #2 - this pit has not been fully excavated yet...and there are many discoveries still to be made. The only intact warrior found, was the kneeling archer, pictured here. All the other warriors have been reconstructed, because after then end of the Qin Dynasty, the tombs were entered and the warriors smashed. There were no records of them so no one knew they were there until Mr Yang fell through a hole in 1974.

    The site is really amazing, and eagerly, we headed for Pit #1 - the first Pit to be found.
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  • Carrefour - the supermarket experience

    7. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This morning was a little more leisurely... Wien drove us to the supermarket for some supplies, and a bit of a look see. I live going to supermarkets overseas, and this one sure did not disappoint. It was huge, on two floors.

    The fruit and veg section was pretty standard, as far as they go, except for the fresh (read super stinky) durians, and lots of veges I had never seen before, for which there was no translation.

    Next was the seafood aisle - mostly still swimming in tanks, fresh as you can get! The Hairy Crabs, tied up in red and white twine, were about the size of an apricot. To my mind, they'd be a lot of work for not much gain. Clinton says they're really muddy in flavour.

    Soy sauce has its own aisle, there are so many varieties, and rice comes in open tubs that you select and weigh - all different types.

    Alcohol is available in the main part of the store, beer of all varieties, and is pretty cheap. Tsingtao is the local brew, three 750ml bottles for ¥9.90 or $A2.05. Then there was the Chateau Lafitte Rothschild, for ¥11000 (about $2250). Sure, why not.

    Kerry and I had a laugh in the condom aisle - you could actually get denim colored ones (triple denim, anyone?).

    We actually even found Pooh Bear and Mickey Mouse shaped dumplings. You just couldn't get this stuff at home...

    Anyway, an intetesting experience, we stocked up, and we were picked up by Wien and headed home.
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  • Tianzifang

    7. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    In the afternoon, we picked up Paul, who didnt want to come to the supermarket, and headed to Tianzifang. This area is in the FFC (the former French Concession) and has wonderful little walkways and alleys of tiny shops and stalls. There are bars four stools wide, and so many colorful shops!

    There were lots of little hole on the wall dumpling shops, but we stopped for doza masala, which was fabulous!

    Dapuqiao, Huangpu, China

    https://g.co/kgs/4TLEkZ
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  • Moganshan art district M50

    8. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today we caught the metro around, very easy, but there are so many lines to choose from!

    We went to a place called M50 on Mogansham Road. This was an arty area, and the first thing we saw was this amazing residential building, looking like something out of a video game we used to play (Riven) or a science fiction movie.

    There are a lot of art installations and tiny galleries, and the artists were at work. We found a lovely pottery shop, with gorgeous glazed tea sets and jewelry with hand made beads.

    We stopped for soup dumplings (love em) and wandered around wonderful laneways.

    Our last stop was the world's biggest Starbucks, the Roastery. It was unbelievable, over two floors. The coffee was wonderful, and we both got a major sugar rush from the divine carrot cake and chocolate cake...
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  • Taking Shanghai by bike..

    9. juni 2018, Kina ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After a 3 hour bike ride round Shanghai (no mean feat) we've stopped on the Bund on the rooftop of the Fairmont Peace Hotel for a beer and fish and chips. The views are lovely, and the clock tower chimed are lovely...Læs mere

  • Home again

    11. juni 2018, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Yesterday we spent wandering around Shanghai, the boys hired some bikes, while Kerry and I browsed some of the malls. No idea how some survive, tiny holes in the wall, with 20 products... Amazing.

    We found the Miaow Boutique, a cat shop, right after Mao's Dowry, a little shop with all things Chairman Mao.

    Found a nice place for lunch, I got a Salmon and Cream Cheese baguette, that was black. Very tasty though, despite the colour.

    We came across a little shop, that had these very cute walking canes... I resisted the urge.

    Anyway, after a very inefficient airport process, we finally boarded the flight, which went surprisingly quick, and we got some sleep.

    Just waiting for a bus home now... The boys and Lil will be very pleased to see us.

    Had a fantastic time with Kerry & Clinton, missing them both lots...
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    Slut på rejsen
    11. juni 2018