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Portugal 2018
  • CL Wanderlust
  • CL Wanderlust

Portugal 2018

Lisbon, Coimbra and Porto Leia mais
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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Belem lisboa

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Took the train out to Belem. it is 5 km from where we are staying in the Bario Alto, cost around 1.30 Euro to get there. Weather cloudy and cool today.

    First stop was the Jardin Alfonso de Albuquerque, a square close to the monastery that was our main goal.

    Praca Afonso de Alburquerque is named after the fist Potuguese viceroy of India. A neo Manueline column in the centre bears his statue with scenes from his life carved on the base. (DK Eyewitness source) He was shown with a turbine like head dress, and there were many elephants at the base of the statue. Elephants are used a lot to show the world dominance, and exoticness of Portugal in the relationship to the rest of the world at this time. 1500's.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Monastery of Jeronimos

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We found our first Starbucks. :( The entire front street was very touristy, we only saw the sign in the distance. there was another one of those exercise circuits in the park. Off above the Blooming Jacarda trees you can see the Monastery.

    It was Sunday so very very busy as this is still an active church and a church service had just been held. We entered in through the south portal which is unusual as this door is normally kept closed. Just as we went in the organ was playing, it was lovely and loud. the acoustics are incredible. You can just imagine what it would have been like in the 1500's when this monastery was built.

    It is made of white limestone, stretches for 300 yards , King Manual (1495 ruled from 1495) erected it as a thank you to the early discoveries made by the early portuguese explorers. It was financed via "pepper money" a 5 % tax on spices brought back from India. - i.e. all those great spices that those same portuguese explorers brought back and then traded with other poorer European countries that did not have any established trading ports in the East.

    King Manuel built the church near the site of a humble chapel where sailors spent their last night ashore in prayer before embarking on their frightening voyages.

    this style of architecture is unique to Portugal and is called Manueline. Amazingly finely detailed carvings, lots of religious symbolism, lots of oceanic themes, shells, ropes, lots of flora and fauna and lots of diversity. It was a pretty amazing church to wander around and see all these different carvings in the columns, walls, niches..

    more from Rick steves:
    ...Monks often accompanied the silor pirates on their trading pillaging trips hoping to convert the heathens to Christianity. Many expeditions were financed by the order of crhist, a brother hood of soldier monks (i think this is the knights templar and their square cross is everywhere). The monks who inhabited this cloister were Hieronymites - followers of St Jerome, hence the monastery name of Jeronimos.

    King Manaual did much to promote exploration, but he is also the king who forcibly expelled all the Jews. gthe spanish Reyes Catolicos -Ferdinand and Isabel - agreed to allow Manuel to marry one of their daughters if he expelled the jews. - end of Rick Steves info

    The South Portal which we entered, amazing amount of detail in this entrance. There is a picture in the guide with 48 different entries for the different statues, and busts and medallions all within this portal.
    Back to rick - the fancy portal facing the street, is textbook Manueline. Henry the navigator stands between the doors with the King's patron saint St Jerome (above on the left with the lion) Henry (Manuels uncle) built the original sailors chapel on this site. this door is only used when mass lets out or for saturday weddings ---this was why we were able to get in today mass had just happened, and look at the crowds around that entrance. l    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Monastery of Jeronimos south portal

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    more details from the south portal.

    The different saints all have some sort of symbolic thing with their carvings I think. this from a later display in side the cloister:
    St Augustine, has has bishop like hat
    St Paul, a sword
    St Mathew , a child
    St John, an eagle
    St Luke, a bull or ram
    St Mark, a lion

    The central figure is Henry the Navigator, the guy responsible for sending out all these explorers, although he never actually went out himself. ( only one trip I believe into Africa)

    on either side of the door are two medallions thought to be king Manual and his spanish queen Isabella...

    The other carving shows a scene of the crucifixion I think. There is a different style of cross with 2 cross pieces, but I have read something about that in the past, although I can't remember what I read, other than the crosses did have different styles throughout the ages.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Monastery of Jeronimos, interior

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Rick Steves- the Manueline style is on the cusp of the Renaissance. the space is more open tan earlier medieval churches. Slender palm tee elite coluns don't break the interior space as Gothic columns would. and the ceiling is all one height. Motifs from the sea hide in the doer. The sea brought Portugal 16th century welt and power, making this art possible. You will see rope like arches, ships, and monsters to evoke the mystery of undiscovered elands. artichokes eaten for their vitamin C to fend off scurvy remind us of the hardships sailors faced at sea. ---

    a picture of the Organ player as he is leaving.

    One of the tombs is the empty tomb for the prince who never returned from war. King Sebastiao. The tomb of the longed for Dom Sebastiao stands empty. The young king never returned from batten in 1578 (eyewitness pg 51)

    the design on the ceiling. Each medallion is something different.

    There are 7 confessionals along that wall.

    The renaissance alter. Nearly everything here survived the 1755 quack excel thte stained glass. In the niches surrounding the main altar elephants - a far eastern symbol of power, more powerful and kingly than the lion - supports 2 kings and queens, (king Manual I is front left) Many portuguese churches were renovated in Renaissanceand Baroque times, resulting in an odd mix of dark, older naves and pretty pastel alters. -source rick stoves    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Monastery of Jeronimos Vasco Da Gama tom

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Close up of the Confessionals

    the south portal doors now shut and that cross the order of Christ- on the red cloth. Henry the Navigator was the grand master of the Order of christ. It was the knights of the templar who defeated the moors in the 11th and 12th century

    Vasco Da Gama's tomb with close ups of three symbols on the sides. His ship - a Caraval - that -cross of the order of Christ, and the third symbol -the armillary, the sphere which is the symbol of King Manuelin, but it is his symbol because it was so important to early navigation. that was what allowed the explores to tell latitude.

    Rick steeves _ 1497 Vasco Da Gama (1460-1524) prayed in the small chapel that once stood here, He then set out with 4 ships, 150 men, state of the art maps, and the armillary sphere. a globe surrounded by moveable rings designed to determine the positions of the sun or other stars to help sailors track their position. Da Gama ws to confirm what earlier navigators had hypothesized, that the ocean recently discovered when Bartolomeu Dias round africa's cape of Good Hope was the same one seen by overland travellers to India. And hopefully da Gama would find a direct sea route to India.
    the symbols on the tomb, the cross from the military order of the soldier monks who funded his voyage, the Caravel, (the ship),
    By Christmas Da Gama rounds the cape of good hope after battling hostile ARabs in Mozambique. he arrives on the SW coast in Calicut in may 1498. trades for spices, and networks, heads home and arrives in Lisbon sept 1499. They had been away for 2 years and 2 months.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos Monastery

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Baptisimal chapel, the 1940's stained glass window with rope motif and the guilded wood ceiling in another small alcove on the opposite side of the baptismal font. You can see the areas between the wood if you look hard.

    the ancient St Anthony Chapel, the gilded wood one.

    Detail of the ceiling in the Baptisimal chapel. rope motifs again.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos Monastery - Luis de Camoes

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Memorial to Luis De Camoes (1524-1580) he is Portugal's Shakespeare and Casanova rolled into one and adventurer, writer whose heroic poems glorifying the nations sailing exploits live on.

    After college at Coimbra, Camoes was banished from the court (1546) for flirting with the noble lady Dona Caterina. He lost an eye soldering in Morocco (so he is always pot rayed squinting), served time in jail for brawling, then caught a ship to India and China surviving a ship wreck en route. while serving as colonial administrator in India he plugged away at the epic open that would become his master pied. Returning to Portugal he published Th lusiads in 1572. The long poem describes Vasco Da Gama's first voyage to India in heroic terms on the scale of Homer's Odyssey. Lusiads were the original pre roman natives of portugal.

    Portugals national holdiay - June 10 - is known as Camoes Day remembering the day in 1580 when he died.

    The stone monument here with literary hater than maritime motifs is an empty tomb as his actual burial spot is unknown. - source rick steeves

    The poet laurette wears a wreath made of the laurel bay tree, the one we grow at the side of the house. The quill and the 3 arrows??? not sure of that symbolism. The one at the end of the coffin is the crest of Lisbon I believe.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos monastery

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    some more details. The interior stained glass

    a column with 3 different types of flowers

    the outdoor cloister building joining the church, an outdoor window with many different shells. Kendra how many can you make out? Scallops, Limpets, clams.....Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos cloister

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    this is the Cloister attached to the church.

    Rick steeves: this restored cloister is the architectural highlight of Belam. the lacy arcade is Manueline, the simpler diamond and decorative rose frieze above the top floor is Renaissance. Study the carvings, especially eh gargoyles above the lower set of arches. among these functioning rainspots, find a monkey, a kitten and a cricket. Heads of states are often received in the cluster with a warm welcome. Many treaties have been signed here (Portugal's admittance in the European Union 1986) -rick stoves

    Each column was different, the tops of them were different, Animal motifs, birds, griffins, phoenix, dragons, some eating the tails of others. The flora, again different vines, fruits, flowers , nuts. the time it must have taken to carve all this and for the monks to contemplate it all....    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos cloister

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    More pics. the arches are all different. 4/side, but different motifs.

    The cloister was designed in 1517 and finished between 1540 and 1541.

    Many different symbols, religious showing the passion of christ, royal - the cross of the military order of christ, the armillary sphere, shields and royal emblems; and nature symbols, ropes, plants and fantastical beasts.Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos monastery - choir area

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The monks would spend 7 hours in the church a day in prayer and singing. this area received the worst damage from the 1755 earthquake. the rows of seats and carvings were the first Flemish and Italian renaissance Carvings in Portugal. the wood was oak and Chestnut. the stall backs have carvings of the apostles and the Doctors of the church. Each seat had a projection or Misierecorid to support the monk. --sign in the church

    we saw these same projections last year in Scotland when we visited the cathedral in Dunblane.

    -Yellow rosary window

    -very dark wood that is carved for monks to sit while singing

    -pic from the choir down into the church    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos cloister

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The passage way from the upper cloister to the lower one.

    There was a small window with bars and another where you could pear out. where you could pier out.

    There was a a second larger window, can't remember if there was an actual seat to sit by the window......like some of the Scottish castles we have seen.

    The intricate carvings on the inner posts. This one with the armillary, crown, crest of portugal, order of christ cross, I am wondering if that is the artichoke behind the shield. This would be the plant they relied on for vitamin c. The later english explorers on the west coast (1792 capt vancouver) would use "spruce" beer. They used the new growth from the spruce, pine trees along the coast of north america, as their source for vitamin c. Is there a raven? up on the top right corner......

    The pillars facing the cloister, again all different carvings, this one the armillary, order of christ cross and there was an animal at the bottom.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos cloister -confessionals

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The confessionals.
    -there are 12 confessionals, the monks would hear the confession through the iron grid. Sailors would make their confessions prior to embarking on their long sea voyages.

    Very small rooms, almost like a dungeon. Colin had to duck to go inside.

    You can see that window that we were looking out of earlier.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos cloister

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We are in the lower part of the cloister, the view looking out to the courtyard. we saw some old pictures in an exhibit that showed this inner courtyard with ponds and plants, that is no longer the case here.

    Lots of stone benches all along the hallways. Very cold to sit on.

    some of the animals. I think that may be a pair of monkeys climbing down. Monkeys were more exotic animals showing the dominance of Portugal.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos cloister -the refectory

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The refectory was where the monks would eat. It did remind us of those dining halls in the Scottish castles, but instead of tapestries there are tiles.

    It was built 1517-1518, the tiles were added 1780-1785. One wall was the story of feeding the 5,000 (new testament) ,the other wall was stories of the life of Joseph in Egypt (old testament)

    'The Feeding of the 5,000. The Feeding of the 5,000 is also known as the "miracle of the five loaves and two fish", because the Gospel of John reports that five barley loaves and two small fish supplied by a boy were used by Jesus to feed a multitude.' (wiki)

    there was a fire place, but it did not appear large enough to have a spit....no room for a small boy to turn the spit like we saw in Scotland's castle kitchens! There was a small hole I guess for smoke to escape?? that is what colin is looking up into.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jeronimos -tomb of Alexander Hurculano

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    He is like the Walter Scott of Scotland. Born 1810, he helped save many of Portugal's older buildings.

    Napolianic wars France invaded from 1807-1810. the royal family fled to Brazil during this time.
    1821 King Joan iV returns to Portugal, but unrest in Portugal. .......

    The area where his tomb is is the Chapter room, there are the 6 saints in this room. It was actually never used as the chapter room as it was finished in the 19th century.

    St Augustine, has has bishop like hat
    St Paul, a sword
    St Mathew , a child
    St John, an eagle
    St Luke, a bull or ram
    St Mark, a lion    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jardiim Botanico Tropical -Belam

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Left the cloister at 5 and had a quick bite to eat. Nice little cafe/coffee shop next to the botanical garden where we had a Toastee (grilled sandwich) and wrap, apple desert and 2 espressos. It started to mist while she were outside so we moved in as did everyone else that was out on the patio.

    The botanical garden was just kitty corner to the monastery. It was a bit run down, not quite as bad as the cuban botanical garden, but in some ways similar.

    Lots of Palms, some that were dying unfortunately.

    There was a section on Macao as that was a Portuguese colony. so many familiar asian species, Viburnum, Honeysuckle, Mahonia,

    There was a grevillia tree that was over 100 feet tall.......I have a grevillia in a 1 gal pot in the green house.

    Parts of the garden were no longer open to the public, the old nursery.

    The old glass house had plants in it, but many many broken panes, and It looked like the lost gardens of Heligan.....

    There was the old palace too and an interesting hard instillation of hammocks. probably around 12 hammocks and lots of people resting in them. It was a Brazilian, portugal joint instillation.    Leia mais

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  • CL WanderlustPortugal 2018Viajante

    Jardiim Botanico Tropical -Belam

    10 de junho de 2018, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The peacocks were crying, they do sound a bit like a baby crying.

    Colin was getting more than a little annoyed at all my picture taking of the plants and their labels. this is ficus Religiosa where he is giving me the human scale. We have one of these at Bloedel, but it is only around 15 feet tall. this one was massive.

    That agave looked a bit like Seymor - the plant in little shop of horrors.    Leia mais

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