Day 1: travel from London

Cotswolds Day 1 – Stow-on-the-Wold
The journey from London felt like an expedition in itself. Train from Molesey to Waterloo, then the Underground across to Paddington, followed by an overland train to Moreton-in-Marsh. For a country girl from a remote town in Western Australia, navigating London's transport system was a little overwhelming. Fortunately, I was travelling light.
I arrived in Moreton-in-Marsh and caught the bus to Stow-on-the-Wold. The bus was delayed, but that mattered little. What I did regret was not spending more time in Moreton. As we drove through town I spotted a wonderful country market in full swing, bustling with stalls and people. It looked exactly the sort of place I would have enjoyed wandering through.
Stow-on-the-Wold turned out to be everything one imagines a Cotswold village should be. Built from warm honey-coloured limestone, the village sits high on a hill and centres around a large market square that has hosted traders for centuries. The narrow streets are lined with old stone cottages, independent shops and inviting cafés. Antique shops seem to occupy every second doorway, each filled with treasures, curiosities and furniture from another era.
One of the highlights was St Edward's Church. Parts of the church date from the 11th to 15th centuries, and it feels every bit its age. The famous north door, framed by ancient yew trees, looks as though it belongs in a fairy tale. Standing beneath those weathered branches, it was easy to imagine stories of knights, pilgrims and medieval villagers passing through over the centuries.
My accommodation for the night was Davenford, a café with a handful of guest rooms. The building itself is a traditional Cotswold stone house that is several hundred years old. Many of the buildings around Digbeth Street and the Market Square date from the 17th to 19th centuries, with some even older. My room was cosy and comfortable, with a private bathroom and all the comforts a weary traveller could want.
I also visited The Porch House, often claimed to be England's oldest inn, with origins dating back to around AD 947. Whether or not it can truly claim that title, there is no doubt that it has witnessed more than a thousand years of English history.
Later I settled into one of the village's many country pubs for a drink before heading to a local curry restaurant for dinner. It seemed a fitting reminder that modern Britain is a blend of old and new: medieval churches, ancient inns, and excellent Indian food all within a few hundred metres of one another.
As evening fell, I wandered once more through the quiet streets of Stow-on-the-Wold. The day had begun amidst the complexity of London's transport network and ended in one of England's most charming villages. Not a bad trade at all.Read more