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Camino Frances

april - maj 2024
  • Becky L
En 39-dags äventyr från Becky Läs mer
  • Becky L

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  • Spanien Spanien
  • Frankrike Frankrike
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Backpacking, Vandring, Självinsikt, Andlighet
  • 8,7kantal resta kilometer
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  • 14fotavtryck
  • 39dagar
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Nyast först
  • Becky LResenärCamino Frances
    Leaving the Rioja vines behindSo many different colors in the fieldsApproaching Santo DomingoCathedral doorsThe chicken coop inside the cathedralSide alterTomb of the miracle hen and rooster at the base of Domingo's tombEverything is chickens in Santo Domingo - pastries, chocolates, carvings.....Santo Domingo's tomb in the cathedralMosaic near the chicken tomb

    Day 10 Najera to Santo Domingo

    26 april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Najera to Azofra to Ciruena to Santo Domingo de la Calzado. 14.5 miles. This day of walking was strange. Beautiful countryside, with churches set against and partially carved into the mountains. However, walking through both of the towns on the way to Santo Domingo felt like walking through a movie set. Azifra had beautiful old buildings and homes, while Ciruena lacked any imagination at all. There was a golf course and then row after row of identical condo type buildings in four styles: army barracks, Swiss chalet, modern glass and some stucco-ish look. And not a single person to be seen other than pilgrims and the few people working the one bar/restaurant open in each town. Where are the people??? It was truly eerie - like walking through a ghost town. Our host that night said they are “old” generation towns where all the young people have left, and the remaining residents only come out for dinner.

    But Santo Domingo made up for it - a vibrant pretty town that clearly loves Saint Domingo, the Builder of Bridges. He was a hermit that had a dream telling him to make the way for pilgrims easier and safer, so he started building roads, the town and as you can guess, bridges. He was the OG recycler, using old Roman roads and buildings for his construction.

    The Cathedral was magnificent - and has the unusual addition of a fancy chicken coop. The hen and rooster (one of several apparently) are supposedly descendants from the miracle birds Saint Domingo brought back to life to save a boy from hanging. Boy was falsely accused of stealing after he rejected a town daughter, and Domingo pled his case. The constable said he could no more save the boy than he could bring the chicken he was eating back to life. Domingo accepted the challenge and both boy and chicken lived on.    Läs mer

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  • Becky LResenärCamino Frances
    Before the hanger set in...Alter in Igledia de Santa Maria de Ascension. Pretty inside, ugly outsideBeautiful murals on every building in Viloria de RiojaMy hostel in Belorado - nicest "bunk" room so farMartin Sheen's square on Belorado's version of Hollywood Stars for his movie The WayUgly outside but beautiful church insideBelorado's main churchThe "bunks" in my hostel

    Day 11 Santo Domingo to Belorado

    27 april 2024, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 46 °F

    Santo Domingo to Granon to Redecilla del Camino to Castildelgado to Viloria del Rieja to Belorado. 14.7 miles. Today was another gray day with rain, and I was a little hangry half way thru as Granon only had pastries and that doesn’t fuel you for 10 miles of hilly walking. Delicious, but not good energy. We took a 1/2 mile detour in the rain following a sidewalk sign pointing to a restaurant loudly proclaiming it is open 24 hours - only to find a depressing and very closed truck stop type place. So I sat on the steps in the rain and ate a vending machine protein bar called Corny (not good) and my last beef stick. There is truly no rhyme or reason I can figure out to when things are open. Oh well. We trudged on. And then a pretty rainbow appeared, the hills stopped and.a crowd of people pointed us to someplace that was actually open. Hallelujah!

    Belorado is a fun town, and my hostel was really nice. Had pinxchos and drinks with a group, and then explored a tiny bit before going back to my hostel. I was feeling pretty tired the past two days after some poor sleep and not a lot of nutritional value food for the miles. While shorter mileage days and nothing to challenging, they felt hard for some reason. Going to bed early tonight in the hope of a better mood and energy for a long and physically challenging 19 miler tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • Becky LResenärCamino Frances
    An Aussie, me and a Seattleite at our 2nd breakfastA portion of the Oca MountainsRandom stump art in the forestLittle random stump art for about 1/2 a mileBreakfast 1Arrows periodically on the path. Only one way to go, so someone was boredFinally nearing Atapuerca Village

    Day 12 Belorado to Atapuerca Village

    28 april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Belorado to Tosantos to Villafeanca Montes de Oca to St Juan de Ortega to Ages to Atapuerca Village. 19 miles. Today was a great day - I slept great, the weather was cool but sunny and the walking paths and towns were pretty. The route was very challenging in spots - we crossed the Oca Mountains - but we went through a lot of forest. The Ocas were challenging not so much because of overall height, but because it was a series of steep ups and downs. You crest one ascent and see 4 more ahead of you.

    Places were open,, we had a lot of miles, and one 11 mile stretch between towns, so I ate all the food today, starting with an actual and plentiful breakfast cooked by my hostel owner. We are learning that you need to eat big and often when you do these kind of cumulative miles. So if a town was open, we ate. Luckily, it was really good food on the way.

    Walked with an Australian man who was a great photographer - he saw things in ways I wouldn’t like how a church bell made a cool shadow on a wall or looking at a bridge from a crouch shows the arches better. Still not carrying a DSLR and 4 lenses though.

    Felt really strong the whole 19 miles. My hostel was rather rustic, the village is itty bitty snd it was raining all evening, so pretty much just showered, laundered, ate a crappy bar pizza, and crashed. But I had curtains on my bunk so it was fun to just close yourself off from the other 12 people right next to you.    Läs mer

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  • Becky LResenärCamino Frances
    Iglesia de Santa Agueda altarThe door entering Iglesia de Santa AguedaMy cathedral teaseAnd another cathedral teaseArco de Santa Maria, the old entrance into BurgosPathway of those cool no-name trees. Must be pretty when they have leavesEl Cid - effectively the general and army for whomever he preferred. Feared by kingsCan't remember which church this was, but closed for massOriginal entrance to Burgos before being deemed not grand enough

    Day 13 Atapuerca Village to Burgos

    29 april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Atapuerca Village to Cardeñuela Riopico to Burgos. 13.1 miles. A short easy day into Burgos. The real path has you walking on the shoulder of a highway for 8 miles, so we opted for the detour route. Was a little tricky to find as it was a little dirt path off the side of the highway that took you around the Burgos airport before eventually leading into a town and then a paved path along the river into Burgos. That path went on for almost 8 miles, with lots of Burgonians (ites?) out walking. And lots of really well behaved dogs living their best life jumping in and out of the river and rolling in the grass. Lots of Buen Camino from the locals.

    My place was over a mile from the historic center, but right across from the Evolution Museum. Which was closed because, well, Spain on a Monday. We dropped bags and wandered to find a grocery store and a late lunch in Plaza Mayor. All the sites were closed for siesta so went back to shower and do laundry. Did a small amount of exploring later, but was very disappointed not to be able to see the Cathedral as they closed it that evening for some big music event in its front square. So I only saw the outside. Went into a few other churches, saw the El Cid statue and the Arco and Puerto de Santa Maria. I didn’t do much more because I have anither 19+ mile day tomorrow and it was getting late. Had a really good salmon and potato salad (vegetables and protein - yea!) for dinner, and found out a local anonymously paid for my dinner. So that was a really nice surprise. Suspect the socks with sandals and slightly smelly athletic attire gave me away as the only pilgrim in the place. Or perhaps they felt bad both the cathedral and museum were closed. Either way, I was grateful.

    I’m disappointed I couldn’t fit in a rest day here. It seems like a great city with so much to explore. Have to return one day. That’s one big downside of the Camino - you see so many great places, but you can’t really explore them because they aren’t open when you go by or get to your stopping point, you simply don’t have time or you just need to keep walking the next day. I suspect it’s why the forums and guidebooks suggest taking at least 45 days to do the Camino.    Läs mer

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