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Camino Frances

april - maj 2024
  • Becky L
Et 39-dags eventyr af Becky Læs mere
  • Becky L

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  • Spanien Spanien
  • Frankrig Frankrig
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Rejse med rygsæk, Vandring, Selvopdagelse, Spiritualitet
  • 8,7krejste kilometer
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  • Flyvning7.468kilometer
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  • 14fodaftryk
  • 39dage
  • 138fotos
  • 32kan lide
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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
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    Day 0 - St Jean Pied de Port, France

    16.–17. apr. 2024, Frankrig ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Minneapolis to Paris to Barriatz to St Jean Pied de Port, my starting point. After going to the Pilgrim’s Office to get my credentials, maps and weather/safety instructions for Day 1 and checking in to my albergue, I had just enough time to take a quick walk around the old town (where I stayed) and see the Ingles de Notre Dame du Pont. Grabbed crepes for dinner and then prepped for tomorrow. People were asleep by 8 already, so it was an early night.Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
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    Day 1 - St Jean Pied de Port to Burguete

    17. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Climbed a mountain today, crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain. Rained pretty much all day, and was so foggy you couldn’t see more than 20 feet in front of you at times. And you certainly couldn’t see the amazing views this portion is known for. The first 5 miles were not fun. Steady sharp climb with no break - and a long line of people looking like they deeply regret their decision to do this walk. After that point though, it was tough but the climbs were broken up by little flat bits. The descent was steep and slippery in spots with mud, incredibly thick layers of leaf rot and wet rocks, but through a beautiful old growth forest. And then we hit flatish ground for the last 4 miles. Planned 16.5 miles today and did 19 - missed a turn due to fog and had to take the longer route down as the police closed the short route due to weather. Took 8.5 hours, and I was tired, muddy and hungry when done. Felt pretty good, but I will definitely be sore tomorrow. Met some really nice people I walked with off and on, and had dinner with. So far my Camino “family” represents Korea, Japan, Italy, Phoenix and Buffalo. Pics in order: starting out, lots of horses roaming free with bells on their neck that sounded like wind chimes, a food truck right before the last climb - the only place for good and water in 14 miles, the start of the descent path, part of the forest, the well known but not accurate sign outside Roncesvelles, a mural welcoming you to Burguete, my shoes after today, marker showing you entered Spain, and the foggy view from the top, my route today.Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
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    Day 2 - Burguete to Larrasoana

    18. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Burguete to Espinal to Biskarret to Zubiri to Larrasoano. Today was a day of “rolling” hills - and more rain. Calling these hills rolling is like calling a house “quaint.” It requires a lot of work. While not as steep, the paths we climbed up and down were pure rock - smooth rock sheets, rocks jutting out of the ground in long lines, and small chunks of- with fun mud and water puddles in between. Made for some slow and careful stepping! And a few times we had no choice but to wade ankle deep through water and/or mud. But the fog was mostly gone so we could see the countryside, which was beautiful, and we went through a handful of cute towns. All of the houses in these little towns are beautiful, old and perfectly maintained. Lots of horses and sheep, and since they roam free, lots of their poop to step around in a few spots. Stopped for breakfast after 4 miles and had my first tortilla de patates, a Spanish omelet/quiche with potatoes and onions - really delicious. Had a nice communal dinner at my albergue, and was given a nice little speech about what I’ll learn on the Camino by the owner of a grocery store I went to for road snacks tomorrow. How to live in the moment, that “stuff” isn’t necessary and whatever lesson my heart wants me to learn. He then gave me a bar of chocolate, so he’s my favorite person on this trip.

    Pictures in order: church with these funky trees seen everywhere; standard house door with thistles for protection and good luck; the Pyrenees in the distance; one of several pedestrian bridges I crossed; tortilla de patates and cafe con leche; one of the less rocky paths climbed; spring mountain flowers; part of the Puente de rabias bridge into Zubiri (legend says you walk your animals across 3x to protect them from rabies); the elevation maps for yesterday and today; mural in my albergue showing I’ll walk through 138 towns/cities on the Camino, excluding all the little hamlets. Accidentally stopped vs paused my tracker when I took a lunch break, but 2/3rds of the route I walked today    Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
    1The first mile of the path
    1View from my last climb if the day1Main altar at Iglesia de San NicolasEntering Pamplona through the Portal de FranciaOne if the Blavk Madonnas in Spain at the CatedralPamplona Town Hall1Grave in the floor of Iglesia de San Nicolas. The entire floor was gravesShrine of St Fermin, saint if the bullfighters, at Iglesia de San Lorenzo.Main altar at the Catedral. 9 alters - all this big and all very goldMain altar at Iglesia de San Lorenzo

    Day 3 - Larrasaona to Pamplona

    19. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    And the sun came out!! Today was a nice easy day - only 10.3 miles and one mild hill. 32,318 steps. We started out through beautiful flower lined paths and forest. Just as I was thinking how the whole trail has been beautiful, it popped onto the shoulder of a busy highway for two half mile stretches. Oh well. I officially came out of the Pyrenees foothills today and into a valley. Unfortunately, we climb out of that valley tomorrow. The last 3ish miles today was going through a suburb of Pamplona and a park. Lots of Spaniards out biking, walking dogs/kids and just going about their life. At least half of the locals I passed would say Buen Camino as we passed. A large bike group went by and every single one said it with a little bike chime added. School kids out at recess waved at us and said it. I’m surprised they aren’t thoroughly sick of that phrase, but I guess it shows how proud they are of the Camino and how friendly the country is. Got into Pamplona and promptly had a pinxtos (smaller version of tapas). Not really sure what it was but it had cheese and I think sardines. Pretty good. I’m in an itty bitty hotel room tonight, but it has a private bathroom (with a real towel!!), no roommates and is in the Casco Antigua (old city) right on the Camino trail so I’m a happy camper. Did my “chores” of showering and hand-washing my walking clothes before doing a walk around because it was siesta time and all the main sights were closed. Saw Catedral de Santa Maria la Real, the Iglecia de San Nicolas, Plaza Consistorial (where my hotel is), Plaza Castillo (Hemingway’s plaza in The Sun Also Rises) Iglesia de San Lorenzo and did a tour of the Plaza de los Toros (the bullfighting ring). Kind of just looks like an open air ballpark but with sand and a lot of concrete corrals and food/water troughs. Interesting to learn about the whole process. Pretty confident I don’t want to be a bull in my next life. Met up with some of my fellow walkers and had a dinner of tapas at a few places. I really like Pamplona - it would be nice to come back.

    I am now known as Minnesota Becks. An Italian couldn’t say my name and calls me Becks or Becksy. Walked part of the way with a couple from Shoreview (a town near Eden Prairie for you non-Minnesotans) so it appears Minnesota has at least 4 people walking right now. The 4th Minnesotan I haven’t met but appears not to be liked. I won’t tell you his nickname. Added Scotland, New Zealand, Germany, Austria, and Sardonia to the list of countries represented. Also learned German and Austrian men just hang out in their underwear and shirt when in their dorm rooms. And not boxers either. I suppose it’s no different than a Speedo. It was just me and those two sharing a room until another woman got added early evening. Very nice men and good bunk mates other than the whole underwear thing.    Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances

    Day 4 - Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    20. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    Pamplona to Obanos to the Alto de Pardon to Uterga to Puerta La Reina. 18.3 miles. More sun today, and another very very big hill and some smaller not another hill hills. Today was a long one, taking 9.5 hours including a croissant and coffee break, a lunch break and a 30 min nap in the shade waiting for seista to end so we could see a unique church we took a 2 mile detour to see. We made it to the very windy top of the Alter of Pedron (Hill of Forgiveness), only to not see the Cross of Forgiveness. Apparently no one saw it - it was blocked by some tour groups and busses. But we got the obligatory picture with the pilgrim sculptures. Saw some nice churches, lots of windmills and trekked up and down more rocky hills. My knees were finally recovering from the first two days, and are now back to being sore. Besides sore feet at the end of the day and a blister on both pinky toes from having wet feet the first two days, my knees have been the only thing bothering me - and only on descents. They’re getting better already, so I’m starting to acclimate. We were going to run to the grocery store tonight for breakfast and snacks, but opted out when we learned it would have been a mile round trip. That pretty much sums up the level of tiredness tonight. Most things will be closed tomorrow (Sunday), so we’ll see what we find for food on the way.

    The octagonal church and altar was the detour church, St Maria de Eunentes (st Mary of 100 doors). Very cool. No one knows who built it in 1170, and has features that represent pagan, Muslim, Jewish and Christian religions. There are 33 outdoor arches, an arched entrance door, 33 arches inside and an arched altar. You are supposed to walk the outside 3 times and then enter the arched door to get your 100 doors. Apparently 33 is a powerful number in all the religions I listed above. I walked it once because, well, tired. It had been 16 miles and that hill already.

    Time for bed    Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
    Welcome mural in Puerte la ReinaThe Puerta la ReinaExample if the detailed stone floors seen in many bars/restaurants1The mustard fieldsThe poppiesChurch in Villatuerta - onebif several fortress churches in the areaDoor into Iglesia de Santo Sepulcra in Estella6 ofvthe 12 apostles on front of Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro.1View from my albergue window1How the little towns often pop up while walking. Hard to explain the sigh of relief when you see one

    Day 5 Puenta la Reina to Estella

    21. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Puente La Reina to Maneru to Curaqui to Lorca to Villatuerta to Estella. 15 miles in 6.5 hours. 36,726 steps. Today was a beautiful sunny day, with 2 steep hills and several smaller hills in between. Sensing a theme? The countryside was beautiful, with some olive trees, huge fields of mustard plants, and bright red poppies all along the path. Passed more cute towns and some huge churches that looked like mini fortresses. Oddly enough, churches were closed to visitors on Sunday, other than at mass time. So were pretty much all stores and restaurants until we got to Estella. Thank goodness for a few Albergues on the way with sandwiches and tortillas. Estella had 3 restaurants and one tiny market open.

    Stayed in a nice albergue in the “glamping” section, but had an interesting night of little sleep. First a large group of New Zealanders were partying until 1 am on the patio outside my window, and then the woman below me had night terrors twice with a lot of whimpering and 2 bloodcurdling screams that woke us all in panic and brought the hospitalerio in checking things out. then she left at 4:30 am and another person at 5:30 am, both making little effort to be quiet. Insult to injury, she took my socket adaptor when she left (I let her plug into it along with my phone cord). I’m glad I brought my power bank since it’s not something I can buy until I’m in a bigger city in 2 days. Karma got her though because she left 2 pairs of socks and underwear and a pair of pants behind. In all seriousness, I hope she’s ok.

    Tomorrow is a big day at 17.5 miles and more big hills, so I’m off to bed shortly.    Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
    1View from my albergue in Sansol
    1Leaving Sansol in the darkIron artist at workBodega Irache pilgrim spigotsChurch in VillamayorChurch entrance in Los ArcosLooking back at second arch entrance in Los ArcosSculpture in park. Appropriately placed by a bathroomSansol - so close but yet 3.5 miles awayCamino reality when your laundry doesnt dry

    Day 6 Estella to Sansol

    24. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Estella to Azqueta to Villamayor de Monjardin to Los Arcos to Sansol. 18 miles in 7 hours. 41,641 steps. Started this walk in the dark at 6:20 am. Also did most of my walk looking like an unhomed person with my still wet laundry pinned to my backpack. Just one of the realities of the Camino. Still not much open in smaller towns on a Monday, so I was starving by the time I reached Sansol - and had a 4 hour wait until the only dinner in town. Hilly in the first half, and then pretty flat but very dusty. Lots of grape vines, olive trees and poppies today. I’m really living the poppies and badly want to pick some. Oh - and artichoke fields, which I’ve never seen before. Passed the Irache Vineyard (a big one in Spain), where they have a wine spigot for the pilgrims. I stuck to the water spigot. Based on the amount of wine getting dumped or spit out, seems like I made the better choice. Can’t imagine they are putting their best wine out for free. Visited an incredible iron workshop, where the artist was hard at work on a sculpture. If I didn’t have to carry, a large bull sculpture would have been coming home with. I never knew such fine detail could be done in iron.
    Stayed at the Palacio de Sansol, a restored palace from the 1200’s. A retired professor had grown up there and dreamed of restoring it for himself and pilgrims to use. Bought it for 30,000 euro and invested 1 million euro over 7 years. Lived in it for a year before he died. Now his son runs it. Our communal dinner was supposedly what the professor ate every night. Artichoke and jamon soup, followed by tortilla de potates and yogurt. It was good, but I would say the boredom of that meal might have been what did him in. Served by a woman who looked like my Aunt Cathy, and made me eat three bowls of soup. I didn’t dare say no even though two was quite enough. I fixed the broken washing machine door, so I was quite the hero and got to use the dryer for free. Which appeared to also be broken since my clothes were still damp after 1.5 hours. Fortunately the radiator was really hot and did the trick. Again, the glamour of backpack life.    Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
    Old war bunkers pop up in random places
    Ceiling over the main alter in Iglesia de Santa MariaSanta Maria alter in the Iglesia de Santa MariaRuinas Iglesia de San PedroExisting murals in Ruinas Iglesia de San PedroClimbed a hill and there was LogronoCamino marker in Logrono. One of 5 types I've seen1School children who greeted us and my most frequent walking partnerView from my hostel doorEntrance yo the Concatedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda

    Day 7 Sansol to Logrono

    24. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Sansol to Torres del Rio to Vianna to Logroño. 14 miles today in about 5 hours. 35,401 steps, including a bit around Logrono for groceries and dinner (and finding my hostel, which was right in front of me the whole time). But the road around 7:15 today and walked a whole 1 km to the next town for breakfast. My usual Neapolitan pastry with cafe con leche. Two ~11 km (6.2 mile) stretches between towns today. Did the first one at a slower pace than normal to allow a friend who stayed 4 miles before Sansol to catch up at the next town. A pretty little stretch with lots of rolling hills. They call this segment the Knee Wrecker, which I thought odd since it is mild compared to the first 4 days. But my knees were pretty sore still, so maybe it’s the accumulation? Vianna was a nice town, and as the only rest/food pace today, pretty busy with pilgrims. It amazes me how these small towns can have such grand churches - 11 big alters in their main one and it was “just” an iglesia, not a catedral. There was also a ruin of a 15th century church that was really pretty, and still had some of its original murals despite being exposed to the elements. They sure knew how to build things. Pretty flat and not very exciting stretch into Logrono- pretty vineyards and grass fields leading into 2.5 miles of industrial park heading into Logrono. And one last big hill because why not?

    Right as we entered, a big group of kids - guessing 13 or 14 years old - mobbed us. At first I thought it was a pickpocket situation, but then a women came up to calm them and explained she was their English teacher taking them in a field trip along part of the Camino to experience it and practice their English. They were really fun and full of questions about America and the Camino (although one girl was clearly hoping I was British). One boy asked if I knew Colin from Michigan. Sadly I do not. They followed us into the city, mimicking our walk and pretending to have backpacks and poles. We felt like quite the celebrities! My hostel room is simple but nice with a wonderful 5 head shower that took me a bit to figure out. And it’s smack in the middle of Casco Antigua (the old medieval town). No sight-seeing today - just took a long shower, rested, ran a few errands and caught up with people back home. Met my friend for grocery shopping and dinner. Finally had some vegetables for dinner - a nice salmon, prawn and anchovy salad. It’s very carb heavy in the smaller towns, which is good for walking, cheap and yummy, but I was craving vegetables and protein.    Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
    Mary and vhild in Concatedral de Santa Maria de Rondedos
    Side alter in Concatedral de Santa Maria de RondedosMain altar in Concatedral de St Maria de RondesIglesia de Santiago. Closed for siestaPilgrims water fountain built some time in Middle AgesMain alter in Iglesia de Santiago Real. To be confused with plain old Santiago churchMary's Chapel in Santiago RealCalle Laurel - the tapas and nightlife street. Quiet midday.Artichokes, pulpo bravara (grilled octopus) and BitterKas.

    Day 8 Logrono Rest Day

    24. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Today is the only full rest day I have planned. Slept in a bit and went to a laundromat. Changed into my sarong in the bathroom there and washed every single thing I had with me. Very cold for 1.5 hours, but nobody blinked an eye and it’s glorious to have truly clean clothes again. Picked up an adapter and some saline and chores were done.

    Made the rounds of the major sites in the Casco Antigua. No celebrity status today, just another poorly dressed Americano in a fleece with socks and sandals.

    Had a late lunch / early dinner on Calle Laurel, a really cool street known for tapas and just good food overall. I was there early so it wasn’t crowded at all, but I guess it is packed in the evenings. Had a great meal of artichokes and octopus. American metal and hair bands are a big thing here - everyone was playing it and singing along. Generally hear older American music wherever I go now that I think of it.

    It’s 4 pm now and I’m hunkered down in my room with no plans other than to shower, pack, read a little for the first time this trip, and go to bed early. High mileage day tomorrow, and the point of today was to rest the body. Still did 5 miles for chores and a little sight-seeing.    Læs mere

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  • Becky LRejsendeCamino Frances
    Iglesia de Asunción in Naverette
    Shepard's refugeKings of NavarreStature of Mary found in this cave which inspired the monasteryNavarre Queen with some of her deceased infantsWindows in the hillside - all that remains of the castle/fortressMonastery passagewayMonastery entrance wayNajera's red hills

    Day 9 Logrono to Najera

    26. april 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Logrono to Navarette to Ventosa to Najera. 18.5 miles. Walked through La Rioja wine region today, so grape vines galore. It was a relatively easy and beautiful walk, with one big hill and lots of little ones. Navarette and Ventosa were cute towns, but Najera was rather dingy. Explored the monastery while waiting for a restaurant - any restaurant - to open their kitchen. Can’t say I like the late dinner thing here. The monastery was really cool, with half of it built into red rock mountains. Lots of kings and queens of Navarre buried there, along with a sad chapel containing a queen and 8 of her children who died before the age of 5. Wonder how many children she had overall??

    There used to be a castle built next to and into the hills here, but only a few windows cut into the hillside are left.

    My room is freezing and the main fuse went out - so I’m huddled under two blankets with a tiny bedside lamp to see by. When I talked to the owner an hour ago, he just shrugged and said it’s an old building, he’ll fix it tomorrow and gave me an extra blanket. Can’t say Najera is a place I’d return to, but they can’t all be fantastic.    Læs mere

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