• Jessica Indyk
  • Keanan Smith
Mar – Nis 2024

Japan Sakura 2024

Jessica & Keanan tarafından 17 günlük bir macera Okumaya devam et
  • Gezinin başlangıcı
    21 Mart 2024
  • Long travel day

    22 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Since our flight from Newark was delayed by 3hrs, we missed our intended connection in Tokyo and today's travel was stretched even longer than intended. We grabbed our first mystery meal in the Tokyo airport and eventually made it to Osaka. We took our first trains which were SO CLEAN and well signed! The hardest part was trying to find our hotel located right above the station. Our hotel room has a beautiful view of the nightscape! Now we're settled into our hotel provided pj's and resting up to explore the city tomorrow!Okumaya devam et

  • Rainy day in Osaka

    23 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We started the day off with some souffle pancakes before heading to Osaka Castle to wander the grounds. We're still a little early for cherry blossoms here, so we just walked around the grounds until we needed a break from the rain. We then went to the Osaka history museum, which had some interesting city history as well as what would have been an incredible view of the castle grounds in better weather. This gave us some time to dry off before heading back to our hotel for a mid day nap. We went back out for the evening to explore the neon lights and street food scene on a food tour. We tried lots of tasty food that we Orbach wouldn't have otherwise without someone to order for us!Okumaya devam et

  • Himeji Castle

    24 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Today, we had our first shinkansen experience out to Himeji castle. We picked up our first eki bento (bento box sold at shinkansen stations for consumption on trains, usually with a local flair) and zipped off to Himeji.

    Himeji Castle, also known as White Heron Castle due to its elegant, white appearance, is widely considered Japan's most spectacular castle for its imposing size and beauty and its well preserved, complex castle grounds. Unlike many other Japanese castles, it was never destroyed by war, earthquake or fire and survives to this day as one of the country's 12 original castles.

    Like all tourist attractions in Japan, it's recommended that you get an early start to beat the rush. We arrived a little before 8:30 (not very early in my books, but Keanan may disagree, haha) and enjoyed the outer grounds of the castle with a relatively small number of other people. We were still too early for cherry blossoms, which was a little disappointing since this is supposed to be one of the best places to view them, but the castle grounds were expansive and impressive nonetheless. When the ticket gates opened at 9, we were quick to grab 2 of the 10 spots on the English tour for the day. While we waited for the tour to begin, we did a quick loop through Kokoen gardens, which are beautifully landscaped and we would have loved to have had more time to view them at a more relaxed pace.

    We then returned for our tour of the castle! It was great having a guide to narrate as we passed through the labyrinth-like approach from the main gate to the main keep. This approach leads along walled paths and through multiple gates and baileys with the purpose to slow down and expose attacking forces. The main keep is 6 stories, and was mainly used as storage for food and weapons, as no one ever lived in this keep and the castle was never attacked.

    On the way back to the train station, we stopped for some delicious soba noodles, before zipping back to Kobe for a stop at the Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum. We enjoyed learning about the Japanese carpentry and joinery used in the architecture we've been seeing and even got to try out some planes and other finishing tools!

    Back at our hotel, we tuned in for the final match ups of the sumo tournament and a quick rest before dinner. Dinner was okonomiyaki, a savory pancake osaka is known for. The place we tried was one that Keanan had found on Google maps. When we finally located it in the narrow twisting alleyways of the train station, the line extended down the entire hallway. The Japanese couple in front of us struck up a Google translate conversation with us, apparently shocked that we had discovered this place, but ensured us we were in for a treat! It definitely did not disappoint! Back at our room, we packed up, as tomorrow we're leaving Osaka and are off on a more off the beaten path adventure!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kumano Sanzan Day 1

    25 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    This morning, we got an early start and said our goodbyes to Osaka. I wish I could say that we were leaving after JUST having figured out Umeda station, but that would be a lie. It is insanely big, and we definitely still could not reliably pop out of it anywhere near our hotel or find train lines and restaurants without some mid station u-turns. It'll be nice to be somewhere smaller for the next few days. We also tried out the luggage forwarding service for the first time. We packed everything we didn't need for the next 4 days into our big suitcase, and we're crossing our fingers that we're reunited with it in Kyoto!

    Our train ride should have been very scenic, following along the ocean once south of Osaka, but unfortunately, it's raining again, and clouds obscure the view. We transfer to a bus that takes us into the heart of the Kumano region.

    Our first stop after an unpictured udon lunch is Oyunohara, a massive torii gate at the original site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha, before it was destroyed in a flood. Some ruins of the shrine still exist as well. Also, cherry blossoms! We had seen some on the bus ride in, but this was the first time on this trip we were able to see them up close.

    Next stop was the Kumano Hongu Taisha, which after flooding, was moved to the top of a very steep hill. This is the shrine that all branches of the Kumano Kodo lead to. After exploring a bit, we grabbed some delicious mochi and tea while we waited for our bus.

    Upon arrival in Yunomine Onsen, we immediately put our names in for Tsuboyu, a UNESCO private onsen that sits in a small shack above the river. It has a 2 hour wait, so we check in and get settled in our hotel while we wait. It was a really neat experience, but so hot even with our frequent cold water additions, so we didn't even last our entire allotted 30mins.

    This is our first night in a traditional Japanese style room, so we're sleeping on futons that are directly on a tatami mat floor. Hopefully we both get a good night's sleep, because tomorrow we're hiking an 8 mile stretch of the Kumano Kodo!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kumano Sanzan Day 2

    26 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    We awoke to heavier and more persistent rain than the past few days, with thunderstorms in the forecast as well. I guess we used up all of our good weather luck in New Zealand last year... Since I'm not crazy, despite what Keanan might think, and don't think that voluntarily hiking through a storm, on slippery rocks, with no views, while soaking wet sounds at all enjoyable, we decided to amend our plans.

    Instead of hiking, we hopped on a bus to Shingu and the Kumano Hayatama Taisha, another of the Kumano Sanzan. When we got off the bus, the rain was coming down in buckets and we were both instantly drenched. We explored the shrine, ducking under cover whenever we had the chance, and then grabbed breakfast on a covered street.

    From there, we took the train to Kii Katsuura, hoping that we'd be able to seek shelter in our next hotel even if we weren't able to check in. By lunchtime, it seemed like the end of the storm was in sight! We got a variety of tuna dishes (Kii Katsuura's specialty) for lunch before hopping on the very crowded bus to Nachisan. We got off before the top in order to climb a portion of the Kumano Kodo, Daimonzaka, to at least get in a little hiking and approach the shrine as the pilgrims. We saw the first blue sky of our trip as we arrived at the top of the stairs to the Kumano Nachi Taisha, the last of the Kumano Sanzan. We explored the grounds of the shrine and temple before going to get a closer look at Nachi falls, the tallest single drop waterfall in Japan.

    By the time we made it back to Kii Katsuura, the sun was fully out, and we were able to check into our hotel room with an incredible view of the ocean! Neither of us slept very well on our traditional Japanese beds last night, but these seem to be thicker mattresses and more comfortable. We enjoyed sampling a bunch of different foods at our hotel's dinner buffet, and I tried my first public onsen experience. It was quite overwhelming, and I feel confident that I prefer hot tub/ hot spring experiences where I'm not naked in front of a bunch of strangers!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kii Katsuura and the train to Koyasan

    27 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    I've got a lot of catching up to do! Our first morning without rain treated us to a nice sunrise from our hotel room. We then stopped by to watch the tuna auction that happens here every morning. The number of fish was astounding! After going back for breakfast at our hotel, we rode the panda train along the coast to Wakayama. The views were much better today than on our way down! From Wakayama, we took a series of trains and cable cars to reach our next destination, Koyasan, a small but densely templed town, high in the Kii mountains.Okumaya devam et

  • Koyasan Shukubo

    27 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Tonight, we stayed at a Buddhist temple in Koyasan, Shojoshin-in. Upon arrival, we were shown to our room, a standard Japanese style room, and took a tour of the temple. For dinner, we enjoyed shojin ryori, traditional vegetarian monk cuisine, before bundling up for our nighttime cemetery tour.

    Okunoin is the site of the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism and one of the most revered persons in the religious history of Japan. Instead of having died, Kobo Daishi is believed to rest in eternal meditation as he awaits Miroku Nyorai (Maihreya), the Buddha of the Future, and provides relief to those who ask for salvation in the meantime. Okunoin's cemetery is the largest in Japan, with over 200,000 tombstones lining the almost two kilometer long approach to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum.

    In the morning, we attended morning prayers and breakfast before heading back out to explore Okunoin again in the daylight as well as some other sights in town. We then made our way back down the mountain.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Uji

    28 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We made a quick stop in Uji on our way between Koyasan and Kyoto. Uji is most famous for its matcha tea, so it was the perfect place for our first tea tasting as well as an opportunity to try all the green foods! Green foods included matcha ice cream, a matcha pancake filled with red bean paste, matcha mochi dumplings, and matcha soba noodles. The owner of the noodle shop even gave me a little card with English instructions on how to eat the noodles. This was great since we had just been talking about how we had wished especially for our temple meals that there had been some kind of instruction on which of the small plates should be added to rice, wrapped in nori, etc.

    We also walked around Byodo-in, the temple featured on the 10yen coin. There were a couple of cherry blossom trees here that had started to bloom as well!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kyoto - Southern Higashiyama

    29 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    We woke up to more rain... our first stop today was Kiyomizudera and the narrow alleyways in that area that are known to get super crazy with tourists if you don't go first thing in the morning.

    Kiyomizudera is best known for its wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, 13 meters above the hillside. The stage in theory provides nice views of the cherry trees below, still largely unbloomed, as well as of the city of Kyoto in the distance (also largely obscured due to the rain.) The main hall and the stage were built without the use of nails.

    Kiyomizudera opens at 6 am, and we were probably there by 6:15. Unfortunately, there's almost nothing else open until around 9 so we had some time to kill. We found a breakfast place that was open nearby where Keanan got some breakfast curry and I decided I needed something more western. Thankfully, by the time we were done eating, the rain had let up. We wandered through Maruyama Park, a popular hanami (cherry blossom viewing) spot. There were a few trees blooming, but most still just have buds.

    Once 9am rolls around, we queue up for Kodai-ji temple. This temple The highlights for us here are the zen rock garden and the bamboo grove. We ended our visit here with a cup of tea at one of the tea houses, overlooking a garden.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Central and Downtown Kyoto

    29 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    After resting/napping at our hotel for a bit after our early morning adventures, we set out to explore a different area of Kyoto.

    Our first stop was Nishiki Market, where we tried food at various vendor stalls before queueing for an omakase sushi lunch experience. The sushi was incredible and the chefs were a ton of fun to watch!

    Next, we had heard that the cherry blossoms in the gardens/park surrounding the imperial palace were in full bloom, so we set off on a cherry blossom hunt. We were certainly not alone in this endeavor and found crowds around every blooming tree. This was definitely the most dense collection of blooming trees we'd seen, though!

    From here, we walked along the river bike path back to our hotel to do some laundry before we pack up to leave this hotel. The path was a welcome break from traffic-y streets, and seemed to be a popular local option for walking, biking, napping, and pickup games.

    Tonight, our final destination is Nijo Castle, which has an illumination and projection mapping experience intended to align with the cherry blossom bloom. While there were only a few trees blooming here, and it would have been cooler with more bloomed trees, it was a really neat experience and a nice change of pace from all the temples.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kyoto - Arashiyama

    30 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    We woke up today with plans to take the Hozugawa River boat tour, but the consistent rain the last few days meant that the river was too high for the tour.

    Instead, our first stop was Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, which is home to 1,200 mossy, stone rakan. Each was carved by visitors under the guidance of Kocho Nishimura, a Buddhist stone sculptor and monk. It's a beautiful temple, and wandering slowly and seeing the unique rakan was a great start to the day.

    We then started our walk down towards Arashiyama Park and Bamboo Forest, stopping at Adashino Nenbutsuji for our second bamboo grove.

    We were very happy for the stop at Adashino once we made it to Arashiyama, since the much larger bamboo grove there was also much busier. We focused our time at the park on enjoying the side paths and taking in the views of the river, including several beautiful splashes of cherry blossoms on the other side.

    We walked through Arashiyama's bamboo grove on our way to lunch and were able to grab a few moments away from the crowds to take in the scale of the bamboo surrounding us.

    For lunch, we had our first wagyu beef experience overlooking a small zen garden. The beef was the best either of us has ever had and made a fantastic end to an active morning.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kyoto - Fushimi Inari & Yariganna Hunt

    30 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    On our way back from Arashiyama, we made a stop at Fushimi Inari Taisha, a shrine known for its thousands of torii gates lining the trail up Mt Inari, between the shrine's main buildings. This is a very popular tourist attraction in Kyoto, so it's recommended to come super early or super late if you don't want to be in a sea of people. This was our only opportunity for visiting, so we decided to give peak timing a chance. It was a zoo in the beginning, but like with lots of tourist attractions, once you head up the mountain a bit, the crowds thin out and you can get some time to yourself.

    Before we left Kyoto, we stopped at a small carpentry tool store. After seeing and trying a yari-ganna (spear plane) at the Takenaka Museum, I (Keanan) found a place to buy one to bring home. The shop itself was tiny, with barely enough room for the two of us, the two men there (who I think were father and son), and the shelves and shelves of handmade chisels, gouges, planes, marking knives, and hatchets. While Jess ran out to an atm to get more cash, I did my best to make small talk through Google translate. All of the tools in the shop were handmade on site, and being shown all the varieties of tool and how they differ from western hand tools was a real treat.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kanazawa - Day 1

    31 Mart 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Craving more familiar breakfast fare, we started our day at café that was opened by Seattle natives before heading out to explore the city. After enjoying our coffee and breakfast sandwiches, we walked through Kanazawa Castle Park. The cherry blossoms here were showing some signs of life and the weather was beautiful for strolling through the park and castle ruins. Kanazawa castle burnt down several times through the centuries, with the latest fire not leaving much behind. The city recently (in the 90s) began the project of reconstructing the castle from the ruins. They're using traditional techniques and materials to restore the castle to its original appearance and we felt the explanations of these things really enhanced the experience of visiting a reconstructed site.

    The next area we explored was the samurai district, which contains several former samurai houses that have been turned into small museums. The amount of English information at these museums is almost overwhelming, and we learn all about the hierarchy of samurai and what their lives were like at each of these levels. One of the houses has a beautiful zen garden that we got to enjoy for a bit. We also stop at a very inconspicuous tea house for some matcha and wagashi and enjoy being sandwiched between a zen garden and the owner's collection of traditional dolls.

    Next, we head to Omicho Market for a very late lunch at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant. While Kanazawa is known for crab, neither of us are much of a fan of the raw crab sushi or the crab miso butter roll, but otherwise, everything is delicious! When you order specific things, rather than pulling them off the conveyor belt, they arrive on a tiny sushi shinkansen, which I thought was super cute.

    We then chilled at our ryokan for a bit before heading out for dinner and evening exploration. We get some tasty yakisoba and okonomiyaki for dinner and then wander the empty streets of the geisha district. We thought we'd be able to walk through the illuminated castle park, but it seems very closed, so we just walk the perimeter of it before calling it a night.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kanazawa - Day 2

    1 Nisan 2024, Japonya ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Today starts with more soufflé pancakes! Keanan found this place in the geisha district, and the breakfast pancakes are so good that we consider coming back later for their dessert options!

    Our next stop is Kenrokuen Gardens, which is known for being one of Japan's 3 most beautiful gardens. The name Kenrokuen literally means "Garden of the six sublimities", referring to spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views, which according to Chinese landscape theory are the six essential attributes that make up a perfect garden. Water is diverted from a distant river by a sophisticated water system constructed in 1632 to feed Kenrokuen's various water features.

    We make a quick detour to the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts. Here, we learned about some of the crafts this area is known for, including ceramics, laquerware, gold leaf, silk spinning and more.

    We wandered back through the castle park on our way to lunch and our massages. We checked out some buildings we hadn't yesterday and enjoyed the cherry blossoms, which seemed much more bloomed after only one additional day under the sunny blue skies. The foot massage also felt great after all the walking we've been doing!

    In the afternoon, we went back to the geisha district, which was much more packed with tourists at this time of day. Here we toured a traditional tea house that still hosts geisha events to this day, and went shopping for some traditional crafts to take home with us. In the end, we picked up some matcha bowls and sake cups with gold details.

    We then stopped at a bar, where Keanan tried a local gin and I tried a local sake before heading back to our ryokan. We donned our yakatas and used the traditional bath before going out to dinner. Dinner tonight was Kanazawa curry - a very dark curry which we both had with the recommended Noto pork cutlet. It made it onto both of our lists of favorite foods that we've tried here!

    Tonight is our last night in a traditional Japanese room, which Keanan is relieved to hear when I tell him. Neither of us have really been getting very good sleep on these thin and firm futon mattresses on the ground...
    Okumaya devam et

  • Takayama

    2 Nisan 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We said goodbye to Kanazawa this morning and took the train into the mountains to Takayama. We arrived just before noon, so our first stop was a shop selling Hida beef "sushi". Hida beef is the wagyu beef from cows in this area (Hida), and the term sushi in this case just means that it's a slice of cooked beef over rice. The beef melts in your mouth and is incredible.

    We next head down some streets with traditional edo architecture and land at the Takayama Matsuri Yatai (Festival floats exhibition hall). Here, a subset of the floats used at the famous Takayama festival are displayed. They are hundreds of years old and very intricately carved and decorated.

    We then walked along the path of temples and shrines. The architecture is different here than other places we've been, with the roofs featuring more rounded corners and having flatter shingles. There's also nice detail on the joints and still snow present off the sides of the paths.

    Next up was Hida Folk Village, an open air museum exhibiting over 30 traditional houses from the Hida region. The houses were built during the Edo Period (1603-1868) and were relocated from their original locations to create the museum in 1971. In a village-like atmosphere, the museum features buildings such as a former village head's house, logging huts, storehouses and a number of gassho-zukuri farmhouses, which are named after their steep thatched roofs resembling a pair of hands joined in prayer ("gassho"). All exhibited buildings at the Hida Folk Village are carefully preserved and open for exploration. They have unique wooden architecture and exhibit tools and utensils used in everyday life in the past. Interestingly, the buildings' indoor fireplaces are lit every morning, making this outstanding open air museum a treat not only for the eyes but also for the nose.

    For dinner, we had takeout Hida beef burgers that really hit the spot.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Journey to Mt Fuji

    3 Nisan 2024, Japonya ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    More rain! Today we are traveling to the Fuji Five Lakes area and hoping to catch a glimpse of the mountain! We start with what is supposed to be a very scenic train ride through the mountains. The river we're following is a gorgeous teal color but we don't have much visibility beyond that and photos through the raindrop covered windows doesn't work so well. After several hours and transfers, we reach Fujinomiya. This is the point where we need to transfer to a bus, but we have a couple hours to explore and try the local noodle specialty. The noodles are delicious and Keanan eats all the large squid chunks that I picked out of mine.

    Next up is the Mt Fuji World Heritage Center, a relatively new museum dedicated to the volcano's seismology, history and cultural significance. The building itself is really cool - an inverted cone that reflects and mimics the shape of Mt Fuji. Once inside, you climb a spiral ramp to an observation deck with has an incredible view of the mountain in clear skies. We're just gonna have to take their word for it haha. Our favorite exhibit was the one on the most recent eruption and outlined the shocking amount of volcanic debris that fell over such a wide area in such a short amount of time. Overall this was a really cool museum and a worthwhile stop on a rainy day.

    We then hopped on a bus to Kawaguchiko. Neither of us have been a fan of the busses - in many cases they come very infrequently and we're never quite sure we're on the right one. The one we caught this time was the last of the day (at 2pm) and was thankfully the correct bus. Once in Kawaguchiko, we took another bus to our hostel on the north shore of the lake. Tonight we have pods in a hostel dorm room, which we're both a little apprehensive about. There's also apparently no places to eat here after 5 so we just order something at our hostel bar and cozy up in my pod to watch some TV. I set my alarm for sunrise, hoping the forecast will change and the mountain will make an appearance in the morning!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Kawaguchiko

    4 Nisan 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    I woke up before sunrise and scurried down to the lake and was met with dense fog where Fuji stands. It wasn't actively raining though, so I decided to take an early stroll along the shore of the lake and just enjoy the quiet and solitude. I met up with Keanan when the fog had dissipated slightly, though not appreciably or in the direction of Fuji. We wandered along the lake shore some more - breakfast at our hostel didn't start until 9:30 and there's nothing else around or open anyway, so we have some time to kill. We are both surprised to admit that this night in a pod, in a room with 10 other people, was one of our most comfortable nights!

    After an unsatisfying hostel breakfast, we set off for a more populated shore of the lake and got some breakfast dessert at possibly the only place that was open before 11am. Very tasty red bean paste sakura thing and apple pie with lots of fresh fruits. It was getting slightly less foggy, but still nowhere close to having a view of Fuji.

    Next we went to the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum, which came highly recommended to us by 2 Australian women we met in the bar in Kanazawa. Itchiku Kubota built this museum to display his life's work, a collection of kimonos that he designed and created after rediscovering a traditional dying technique. The level of detail in the colors and textures was incredible! No photos were allowed so I attached a couple from the internet.

    Our last stop before hopping on a train to Tokyo was for some local noodles. Hoto noodles are flat udon noodles served in a miso broth. These noodles were served to us in what can only be described as a cauldron! They were incredible and we bought some too bring home to try and recreate here!

    We then took a bus to the train station to buy tickets back to Tokyo. There were no seats left unless we hung around for several more hours so we accepted standing room only tickets for our 2 hour trip into Tokyo.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Tokyo - Ueno Park & Kappabashi

    5 Nisan 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The cold and rainy weather we've been having since we arrived had delayed the cherry blossoms across the country. While this has worked against us for the rest of our trip, today it's to our advantage! We were for sure going to miss them in Tokyo based on the forecasts, but they're just hitting peak bloom! This morning we walked over to Ueno Park to ogle at them.

    After breakfast, we explored some shops in Kappabashi, the kitchen district of Tokyo. We're specifically looking for knives but we're also browsing the vast selection of everything else that lines the streets.

    Then it was time for our cooking class! We learned about the different varieties of Ramen broth and started our own before moving on to gyoza. I was much better at assembling pierogi than gyoza, but despite my poor folding, our gyoza came out looking good and were delicious! We then cooked our noodles and assembled our Ramen bowls. 😋
    Okumaya devam et

  • Tokyo - Teamlabs Borderless

    5 Nisan 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We enjoyed exploring the different rooms and interacting with the exhibits at this digital art museum! Afterwards, we went up higher in the tower to take in the nightscape. Seeing dense lights as far as the eye can see really hammers in how big Tokyo is.Okumaya devam et

  • Tokyo - Last Day in Japan!

    6–7 Nis 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    After some tax free shopping and packing our bags, we were headed to the river to meet Tiff for some brunch and cherry blossom viewing! It was awesome to catch up with her while we were here and get our last dose of cherry blossoms before we head to the airport!Okumaya devam et

    Gezinin sonu
    6 Nisan 2024