I am a retired academic and my husband and I have been travelling inside Australia since we met way back in the mists of time. Since 1997 we have also been travelling overseas regularly which we love very much. Read more New South Wales, Australia
  • Day 75

    Home

    June 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our flights - from Montreal to Vancouver and Vancouver to Sydney, went well if not smoothly there being quite a bit of turbulence here and there. Still we arrived back in good old Oz happy to be home after our adventures in Canada. We are so grateful for the opportunity to see this beautiful country. Thanks to all for following our travels, we were so happy to have you along for the ride. Happy trails people!Read more

  • Day 69

    Streetcapes of Montréal

    May 28, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This short post features street images from a couple of days in Montréal. The city’s famous Underground City is a fabulous pedestrian network under the heart of the city. It links metro stations to shopping plazas for over 33 kilometres. Inclement weather, hot sun or deep snow, will not prevent Montreal citizens who want to stroll, shop and eat! We had lunch at Desjardins food court, and can absolutely see the charms of life underground.Read more

  • Day 69

    Montréal Art Gallery 2

    May 28, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Henry Moore’s sculptures are very well known and I think his forms have so entered our mental artscapes that we are hardly aware of his influence. Included here are a few other artworks we saw on our visit to this beautiful gallery, the new wing of which had echoes of the Guggenheim in New York - all white and airy.Read more

  • Day 69

    The Art of Georgia O’Keeffe

    May 28, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today we went to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. Wow what a fabulous place! We were lucky to be in town for a blockbuster exhibition on the modernist art of American Georgia O’Keeffe (1887– 1986) and Englishman Henry Moore (1898-1986). Although the exhibition was predicated on the idea that these two artists were pursuing similar methodologies, ideas and themes, this footprint will concentrate on her art.

    O’Keeffe was a modernist painter often called the “Mother of American Modernism”. She lived for many years in the desert lands of Ghost Ranch, New Mexico. She was interested in natural forms and found objects, especially rocks, shells, flowers and bones. Often the space between or inside things, as much as the things themselves, was shown as meaningful for reflecting on the correspondences with human experience. I just love her flower paintings. At the heart of her paintings of flowers are qualities of elegance, grace, beauty, and vibrant colour. We are brought into her deep looking at flowers through her art.
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  • Day 68

    Notre Dame Basilica, Montréal

    May 27, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Over the years we have been lucky enough to travel overseas, Graham and I have visited many cathedrals and churches. But today, at Notre Dame Basilica in Montreal, I believe that we saw the most beautiful high altar we have ever seen. The use of blue light is striking. Judge for yourself.

    The cathedral quite uniquely also charts much of the local history and historical personalities. There are many female saints included in these stories, For example, Saint Marguerite d'Youville, founder of the Grey Nuns, is depicted in a chapel “Giving to the Poor” (1991). The altar in this chapel was the high altar of the old Notre-Dame church. Marguerite d'Youville was beatified and proclaimed “Mother of Universal Charity" by Pope John XXIII in 1959 and then became the first Canadian woman to be canonized in 1990. Then there is Kateri Tekakwitha (1656-1680), baptized as Catherine, from the Kanien'kehá:ka nation (often referred to as the Mohawk nation), the first North American Indigenous person to be canonized.

    The intimate relationship between religion and pedagogy is exemplified in the story of Saint Marguerite Bourgeoys (1620-1700). She was the city's first teacher. And overall you could say that cathedrals as physical objects teach stories in visual displays and architectural shapes. They also strive to teach emotions too, especially reverence and awe. It was very effective at this type of teaching as far as we were concerned!

    Luciano Pavarotti gave a concert in the Cathedral in 1978. The whole concert is on YouTube but for a snippet, go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb5tzATl4oo
    (You may need to copy and paste the address of search YouTube.)
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  • Day 66

    Montreal!

    May 25, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Montreal, a contraction of “Mount Royal” apparently, is about the size of Sydney - 4 million + people. It’s big, bustling and busy. So we were very glad not to have to worry about the car which we dropped off at the airport yesterday before taking a taxi to our Airbnb. In a way we were sad to say goodbye to the car because it had been our only real home for the last eight weeks, and had never skipped a beat even though we had driven over 10,000 kilometres in it. On the other hand it was something of a relief to be free of it, especially for Graham who has been simply amazing as driver throughout. But I felt it too. Being the compulsory passenger can also have its challenges, especially as navigator (not my forte since I can sometimes be what I call dyslexic of right and left directions. When I say left and gesture to the right, Graham droll as ever, calls it “the other left”).

    Our studio apartment in Montreal is on Rue William, just on the edge of the historic old town, and today we went out for our first walk. The sun was shining and the streets were filled with all sorts of people: tourists like us; young & old Montreal folk out for the day; apartment dogs taking their owners for a walk: even a few couples getting married. It was all very jolly but we decided after a nice walk and a lunch, we would postpone Gallery and historic landmark viewing until Monday when it won’t be so busy.

    Road and other works are going on all over the place and Graham commented that “like Newcastle, Montreal will be great when it’s finished.”
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  • Day 62

    Upper Old Town Quebec

    May 21, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After a very leisurely start and a chat to the owner of our Airbnb who was doing some spring gardening out the front, we made our way to the ferry. On the Quebec side we took the steepest funicular I have ever been on. It was fantastic and a great way to ascend the heavenly heights to Quebec’s Upper Old Town. There we were immediately greeted by a huge statue of Samuel de Champlain who played a major role in establishing New France from 1603 to 1635. (New France existed at one time alongside New England, New Spain and New Holland - even the Russians had a go!) He is also credited with founding Quebec City in 1608.
    We found our way then into the Chateau Frontenac where we had a lovely not too overpriced lunch with a gorgeous view. Very special! Afterwards we walked around the old upper city and went inside of the very impressive Catholic Basilica, aka Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral. These places rile me up. Gold everywhere and a candle to light on an altar will cost you 2 or 5 dollars depending on the size. Then there was a presentation on the life of Canadian “saint”, Francois Laval who “loved the Indians”. Give me strength! As a missionary he helped dispossess them. Sorry folks, it’s a case of “don’t get me started”!!
    But to end on a positive note, how wonderfully the citizens of Quebec have kept and present their historic walled city.
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  • Day 60–61

    Lévis & Quebec Lower Old Town

    May 19, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We arrived in Lévis in good order and easily found our Airbnb on Rue St Laurent. This place overlooks the water and faces towards Quebec with its dreamlike beauty, dominated by the magnificent old railway hotel, Chateau Frontenac. Rather than drive into Quebec we chose instead to stay on the other side of the St Lawrence Seaway at Lévis and catch the ferry. This ferry runs very frequently- every half hour from both sides- and costs very little. We are lucky that our hosts provide the cost of the ferry trip as part of the Airbnb rental. How good is that?
    Today our first full day, we took the ferry and concentrated on the Lower Old Town of Quebec. We’d had a late start because of a serious plumbing issue- the shower drain was blocked. But our hosts were just fantastic, responding immediately and we were able to get away at lunchtime leaving the problem in their hands.
    After a very good light lunch on the ancient Rue St Pierre and a little walk, we went to the Musée de la civilisation. There we explored the excellent exhibition by the Indigenous Nations of Quebec called “Our Story”. It was brilliant and very moving at times. The use of so-called “education”, for example in the disastrous residential schools, as a weapon of colonisation was very prominent. Another aspect was the ongoing struggle of all these proud peoples for justice, recognition, and land rights,
    We have had a chilly trip so far - which we have both enjoyed. However today was very warm reaching 26 C and we basked in beautiful sunshine all day, with even something approaching a summer storm at its end. Tomorrow we plan our assault on the Upper Old Town. More of Quebec to come …
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  • Day 58

    Parc des Chutes, Rivière-du-Loup

    May 17, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Yesterday we went for a walk in the Parc des Chutes nearby. This lovely park contains many walking trails and we walked the black trail. Very relaxing way to take exercise.

  • Day 57

    Random Observations from Rivière-du-Loup

    May 16, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    1. Spring has sprung!
    One of the wonderful things about travelling for a decent interval in the northern hemisphere is witnessing the seasons change. For us the coming of spring has been quite miraculous. Where once the forests looked like death camps for trees other than the evergreen pines, they have now sprung back into life with the most glorious dense apple green. This is turning the harsh winter views into gentle vistas.

    2. Of Supermarkets
    Just as we have Coles and Woolworths in Australia, in Canada you have Sobeys and Atlantic. Latterly Walmart superstores are trying to elbow them out. In Australia we are Woolworths people, but here we have become Sobeys people although we have tried Walmart. Sobeys sliced artisan bread is lovely! These shops are very like our supermarkets, only bigger. Aesthetically utilitarian and ugly, the one big difference is that they have a working pharmacy in the middle. But without doubt the most aesthetically pleasing supermarket until just today was in the ugliest town - Drumheller. There at Fresno Brothers, they had made a real effort to beautify the place. There was a cafe behind a floral screen where the local old boys were having their morning coffee; there were decorative floral displays on the ends of aisles and not all aisles were symmetrically laid out or of the same height. There were actual displays of different types to tempt buyers with little delights. This same approach was replicated today at the IGA store in Rivière. I just love this approach to shopping for food and our supermarkets could make an effort in this direction.

    3. Language matters
    Quebec province feels like another country, not Canada in some fundamental way. They speak French exclusively, and what is more, they expect you to speak French too. We were warned of this by a Canadian woman in Saint John. She said that they will switch to English once they hear you try to speak their language- unless you are American! But, like the French in France, they like you to try. All over Canada, the road and other signs are bilingual: English and French. But in Quebec Province they are only in French. This speaks to their particularly proud francophone identity. In fact Quebec has voted in the past over leaving in the Canadian confederation- but the proposition failed to get the required number of votes. Having been here in Rivière-du-Loup only a few hours, we have had nothing but courtesy and good humour from everyone we have met as we mangled their mother tongue.
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